012 Capitulo 12

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12Cowls

chapter

208

COWLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209

Types of Cowls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209

Nature of the Bias Cut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210

Twisting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210

Making Patterns for Bias-Cut Cowls . . . . . . . . .210

Finding True Bias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211

Fitting the Cowl Drape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211

Correcting the Pattern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211

High Relaxed Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212

Mid-Depth Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214

Low Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216

Deep Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .217

Strapless Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218

BACK COWLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219

High-Back Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219Mid-Back Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .221

Low-Back Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .221

ONE-PIECE ARMHOLE COWLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222

PLEATED COWLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224

Pleated Shoulder Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224

EXAGGERATED COWLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226

High Exaggerated Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226

INSET COWLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228

V-Inset Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228

SELF-EVALUATION TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229

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COWLSCowl folds are created by allowing fabric to fall todesired depths from secured ends of a bias triangle.Cowls drape best on true bias and when cut in soft,

loosely woven fabrics—crepe, silk, gauze, rayon,satin, chiffon, and certain knits. The bodice cowl de-pends on excess taken from the basic dart—the lowerthe depth of the cowl, the greater the amount of ex-cess needed—an application of Dart Manipulation.

Types of CowlsCowls can be designed with or without pleats and/orgathers and with few or many folds. They fall at vary-ing depths, creating a soft look to any garment.Cowls fall from the shoulder at necklines, at arm-

holes, or from the waist of dresses, gowns, blouses,pants, jackets, and coats. Cowls can also be designedto fall from the cap area of the sleeve. Cowls can bein-one with the garment or be set-in to save fabric.With the help of a broach or clip, the cowl can bepulled in any direction to create interesting effects.

French darts rather than waist darts may bepreferred.

COWLS 209

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210 Chapter 12

Twisting

Figure 2

Nature of the Bias CutFigure 1The lengthwise grain and cross-grain run in oppositedirections as the cowl hangs from the shoulder (orfrom any part of a garment). The fold of the cowl fol-lows more closely to the lengthwise grain on oneside, and on the other side the fold follows moreclosely to the cross-grain. The lengthwise grain,which is twisted more firmly than the cross-grain,may cause the fold of the cowls to roll differently andoften is the reason for twisting. For additional infor-mation about the nature of bias, see Chapter 20.

TwistingFigure 2Place a finger at the center of each fold of the cowl.Press downward gently. If the fold of the cowl(s)twists, redrape the cowl on the side of the twist un-til the fold falls smoothly. Correct the pattern (thesides may differ).

C r o s s g r a i nS t r a i g h t g r a i n

Figure 1

Making Patterns for Bias-Cut CowlsBasic patterns are generally developed for garments cut on the straightgrain of woven fabrics, not for thosecut on the bias. The cowl patterns require adjustments if the garment is to fit. The cowl is cut on perfect biasand draped on the form for a first fitting to determine the stretch of the bias. The amount that the cowl bodicestretches when fit on the form is marked and trimmed or added to the original pattern. The adjustments causethe pattern to be reduced in size to the amount that it will stretch. When recut, it should fit in the final test.

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COWLS 211

Add 1 "

allowance

Fabr ic

Tissue

T r u e

b i a

s

F o l d

F R O N

T C O W L

Figure 3

Raise

Ad justedar mhole

Ad justedside seam

Ad justedwaistline

Figure 4

Finding True BiasFigure 3To find true bias, fold the cross-grain to the lengthwise grain—or parallel to it. Smooth the fabric and pin alongthe edges to hold. Mark the fold line with chalk or thread line loosely to indicate true bias. The cowl patternshould be traced on marking paper first and then pinned to the fold of the fabric. Place tissue underneath thefabric to prevent slippage when cutting.

Correcting the PatternFigure 5• Remove drape from the form.

• Measure the difference between the original pat-tern and the marked outline.

• Mark the original pattern at the chalk-marked

outline and draw blending lines. Adjust the pat-tern (under the armhole). Recut and check the fit.

Raise ar mhole

Or iginalpatter n

FRONT COWL

(ad ju

sted

patter n)

Add

Figure 5

Fitting the Cowl DrapeFigure 4If there is a dart (preferably a French dart), pin orbaste first. Pin cowl to the shoulderline with centerlines matching. Allow the bias fabric to fall andstretch. Smooth fabric past side seams and waistline.Pin where indicated. With sharpened chalk, markthe outline of the form on the drape (right side onlyunless the design is asymmetric).

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212 Chapter 12

Design 1

3/4 "

3/4 "BC

A

S l a s h

SlashBust point

C e n t e r f r o n t

C.F. bust

Figure 1

High Relaxed Cowl Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1

• Trace the front bodice pattern. Label center frontneck A.

• Mark B 3/4 inch from shoulder neck.

•

Mark C 3/4 inch from B.• Draw slash lines from A to B and from A to C.

• Square a slash line from center front to bustpoint.

• Cut the pattern from paper along A-B line, dis-carding unneeded section. Broken line is originalneckline.

• Cut slash lines to, not through, the bust pointand point C.

Guideline

FRONT

Bust level


C

B DA

1 "

2 1/2 "

Figure 2

Design Analysis: Design 1

The relaxed cowl of Design 1 indicates that some partof the dart excess was transferred to the neck cowl.

Figure 2

• Fold paper. Square a guideline 2 1/2 inches downfrom paper’s edge and label D.

• Draw a parallel line 1 inch up from point D (fold-back facing).

• Place the pattern on paper so that point B touchesthe guideline and point A touches point D.

• Align center front with the fold of the paper be-low bust level (transfers some dart excess to thecenter front).

• Trace the pattern starting from B and ending atcenter front waist. Remove pattern.

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COWLS 213

FRONT

Tr ace

and

blend

Fold line B A

Figure 3

Figure 3

• Fold across A-B line.

• Trace shoulder and blend. (Broken line is originalshoulder.)

Figure 4

• Cut the pattern from paper and unfold.

• Draw a 45° grainline for bias.

• Follow the instructions given for the first fittingon page 211, Figures 3, 4, and 5.

COWL FRONT

T r u e b

i a s g

r a i n l i n

e ( 4 5 )

¡

C e n t e r l i n e

Facing

Figure 4

Figure 5• Trace the basic back pattern.

• Mark B 3/4 inch from shoulder/neck.

• Draw the neckline from back neck, curving to B.

• Extend center back 1 inch.

• Draw a grainline cut and stitch to cowl front af-ter the first fitting.

• For facing instruction, see Chapter 16.BACK

3/4 "

B

1 " extension

C ent er b a ck

Figure 5

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214 Chapter 12

Design 2

Mid-Depth Cowl


The cowl falls from mid-shoulder to a depth be-tween the neck and bust level. The depth of the cowltakes up one-half of the waist dart excess. The fold-back facing is rounded.

FRONT

S l a s h S l a

s h

Mid-shoulder B

A


Slash Bust level

Fig

ure 1

FRONT

Guideline B

A

4 "

C

Unneededparts of pattern


Bust level

5 "

Paper

Figure 2

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1 Front

• Trace the front bodice and square a slash linefrom center front to the bust point (bust level).

• Mark A between the center front neck and bustlevel.

• Mark B at mid-shoulder and draw a line to A.

• Draw a slash line from shoulder tip to bust leveland another in between.

• Cut the pattern from paper.

• Cut slash lines to, not through, the shoulder andbust point.

Figure 2

• Fold the paper and square a guideline 5 inchesdown from paper’s edge.

• Place the pattern on paper so that A-B linetouches the guideline and point A touches foldof the paper.

• The center front pattern is placed on the fold be-low bust level.

• Trace the pattern, starting from B and ending at

center front waist.• Mark C 4 inches up from A for fold-back facing.

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COWLS 215

FRONT

Tr ace

and

blend

Fold line B

Tr ace for facing

Figure 3

Figure 3

• Fold on the A-B line and trace the shoulder.

• Blend the shoulder (broken line is the originalshoulder).

• Draw and trace the facing (1 1/4 inches wide at

shoulder).

Figure 4

• Unfold and draw the traced facing.

• Draw a 45° grainline for bias and cut from the pa-per. Follow the instruction given for the first fit-ting on page 211, Figures 3, 4, and 5.

Figure 5

• Trace the basic back pattern.

• Mark A 1 1/2 inches below center back.

•

Mark B 1/4 inch down from mid-shoulder.• Draw the neckline from A, curving the line to B.

• Draw a parallel line 1 inch from center back.

• Draw a straight grainline.

• For facing instructions, see Chapter 16.

• Cut and stitch to the front cowl after the firstfitting.

COWL FRONT

C

1 1/4 "

B i a

s g r a i n l i n

e

Facing

C e n t e r l i n e

Figure 4

1 " extension

BACK

1 1/2 "

AB

1/4 " (eliminates dartexcess at

shoulder line)

Figure 5

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216 Chapter 12

Design 3

Low Cowl


The low cowl drapes at or slightly below bust level.All of the waist dart excess is transferred to the neck-line for a cowl of this depth.

FRONT

S l a s h

B1 1/2 "


A Bust levelSlash

Trim

Figure 1

COWL FRONT

Close

5 "

A

B Guideline


Paper

Figure 2


Figure 1

• Trace front bodice.

• Square a line from center front to the bust point.Label A (bust level).

•

Mark B 1 1/2 inches from shoulder tip. Draw aline from A to B.

• Draw a slash line between the shoulder tip andpoint B, ending at point A.

• Cut from paper.

• Cut slash lines to, not through, the shoulder andbust point.

• Close dart leg. Tape.

Figure 2

• Fold the paper and square a guideline 5 inchesdown from paper’s edge at fold.

• Place the pattern with center front on fold andpoint B on the guideline. Spread sections untilpoint A touches center front fold.

• Secure and trace from B to center front waist.

• Draw fold-back facing. See page 218, Figure 3.

• Develop the back pattern using instructions on

page 218, Figure 4, as a guide.• Complete the pattern for test fit.

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COWLS 217

Design 4

A

B

2 "

1 1/2 "

Trim

Figure 1

Deep Cowl


Deep cowls are usually designed with a strapless top.They can be stitched into the side seam of the cowlbodice (as illustrated) or continued around to theback. Cowls that fall below bust level indicate thatfullness has been added to the center front.


If you are not using the Contour Guide Patterns, usethe measurements given.

Figure 1 Cowl Pattern

• Mark cowl depth 2 inches down from bust level.

Label A.• Mark B 1 1/2 inches from shoulder tip. Draw a

line from B to A and from A to bust point.

• Trim neckline (shaded area).

• Cut slash lines A from, not through, the bustpoint.

• Close the dart legs.

Figure 2

• Fold paper.

• Place waist at fold. With a pushpin, pivot the pat-tern until point A touches the fold.

• Trace the pattern from B to center front waist.

• Square a line from the fold, touching B.

• Draw the facing as illustrated (uneven brokenlines).


A

B

Push pin

Fold line

4 "

Paper

Figure 2

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218 Chapter 12

1 " extension

BACK

1 1/2 "

AB

1/8 " (eliminates dart

excess atshoulder line

Trace facing

Figure 4

Figure 3

• Unfold, mark notches, draw bias grainline, addseams, and cut from the paper.

Fold line

FRONT

Figure 3

4

3 "3 "

1/2 "

3/16 "

7/8 "

6

Trim

Figure 5

SIDE FRONTFRONT

C u

t o

n f o l d

Figure 6

FRONT

C u

t o

n f o l d

1/4 "1/4 "

SIDE FRONT

Figure 7

Strapless TopFigure 5• Plot strapless top on a traced copy of the bodice.

Use contour guides #6 and #4, or use the mea-surements given.

Figure 4 Back Pattern

• Trace the back pattern. Draw neckline using themeasurements given.

• Draw the facing (uneven dash lines).

• Add seams and extension. Cut from the paper.Mark notches and grainline.

• Trace facing.

Figure 6

• Blend princess line and mark notches.

Figure 7

• If boning is attached, add 1/4 inch at bust point.

Separate patterns on the curved princess lines;add seams.

• Cut 2 self and 2 for lining.

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COWLS 219

BACK COWLSBack cowls are developed with the use of a square ruler. Designs 1, 2, and 3 illustrate a high, medium (mid-center), and low cowl.

Design 1 Design 2 Design 3

High-Back CowlPattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1

Paper Needed

• Cut a 36-inch square of paper and fold.

Back Set Aside

• Mark A 4 inches down from back neck.

• Mark B at the dart leg and at mid-shoulder.

• Measure from A to B (includes dart excess).Record.

• Mark C from center back waist equal to the widthbetween the dart legs.

M e a s u r e

A

B

4 "

BACK

C e n t e r b a c k

C

Width of waist dart

Figure 1

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220 Chapter 12

A

BACK

1/16 "

B

Curve line

C

4 "

1

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

1 0

1 1

1 2

1 3

1 4

1 5

1 6

1 7

1 8

1 9

2 0

2 1

2 2

2 3

2 4

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0 1 1 1 2 1 3 1 4

Paper

Figure 2

Figure 2

• Square a line 4 inches down from the fold thatequals the A-B measurement. Label.

• Place the pattern on the paper so that point B of the pattern and the paper touch and point Ctouches the fold.

• Secure and trace the pattern indicated by the blueline, omitting the part indicated by the brokenlines, and remove the pattern.

• Draw a slightly curved line from B to shoulder tip.

Figure 4

• Crease-fold paper on the A-B line. Trace shoulder.

• Draw a curved line 3 inches down from centerfront on fold and end 1 1/4 inches from B on theshoulderline. Trace.

Square

Figure 3

TraceA B

3 "

1 1/4 "

Trace

Figure 4

L e n g t h w i s e

g r a i n l i n e

COWL BACK

Facing

C e n t e r l i n e

Figure 5

Figure 3

• Square a line from the fold, touching the dart leg,and blend the hemline, as shown.

Figure 5

• Unfold pattern and pencil perforated marks.

• Draw a 45° grainline for bias.

• Add seams and notches and cut for test fit, fol-lowing the instructions on page 211, Figures 3, 4,5. After the front pattern is draped and the pat-tern corrected, adjust shoulderline of the basicback to complete the garment. The basic pattern

is usually cut on the lengthwise grain.

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COWLS 221

M e a

s u r e

Mid-back A

B 2 "

C e n t e r b a c k

C

Width of waist dart

Figure 1

A

BACK

1

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

1 0

1 1

1 2

1 3

1 4

1 5

1 6

1 7

1 8

1 9

2 0

2 1

2 2

2 3

2 4

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0 1 1 1 2 1 3 1 4

B

C

Paper

Square corner

Figure 2Mid-Back CowlFigures 1 and 2• Mark A midway between neck and waist.

• Mark B 2 inches from shoulder tip.

• Measure from A to B. Record.

• Mark C to equal dart intake.

• Follow instructions given on page 211, Figures 2,3, 4, and 5.

Low-Back Cowl

Figures 1 and 2• Mark A 4 inches up from center back waist.

• Mark B 1 inch from shoulder tip.

• Measure from A to B. Record.

• Mark C to equal dart intake.

• Follow instructions given on page 211, Figures 2,3, 4, and 5.

M e a s u r e

A

C e n t e r b a c k

B 1 "

C

Width of waist dart

4 "

Figure 1

BACK

1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0 1 1 1 2 1 3 1 4 1 5 1 6 1 7 1 8 1 9 2 0 2 1 2 2 2 3 2 4

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

1 0

1 1

1 2

1 3

1 4 C

A B

Paper

Squarecorner

Figure 2

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222 Chapter 12

ONE-PIECE ARMHOLE COWLS

Design Analysis: Designs 1, 2, 3, and 4

Cowl drapes under armhole, replacing side seams.

Four Variations for Underarm Cowls

Design 1—Over-shoulder cowl, Figure 1

Design 2—Halter cowl, Figure 1

Design 3—Armhole cowl, Figure 2Design 4—Cowl sleeve, Figure 2

Design 2

Design 1

Design 4

Design 3

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COWLS 223

Figure 1

• Use front and back basic two-dart bodice, withshoulder dart transferred to the armhole.

• Draw a square line on paper. Label A, B, and C.

• Place front bodice on A-B line. Place back bodice

1 inch in from B-C line (for extension), with a1-inch space between the front and back sidewaists for ease.

• Secure and trace the front and back pattern,omitting sections indicated by the broken lines.Remove patterns.

• Blend a curved line between front and back waist.

Design 1 Over-Shoulder Cowl

• Stitch shoulder and continue 3 inches more.

Design 2 Halter Cowl

• Draw a line from front mid-shoulder to backmid-shoulder.

Figure 2

Design 3 Sleeveless Cowl• Draw a line connecting the front and back shoul-

der tips. Label D-E.

Design 4 Long-Sleeve Cowl

• Draw a line connecting the shoulder tips. LabelD-E.

• Mark the center of the D-E line and draw a lineto the side waist. From this point, extend the lineto equal the desired sleeve length. (Add length if gathers are desired.)

• Square a line out from both sides that equals thewrist measurement plus 1 1/2 inches (one-half on each side).

• Drawa lineto pointsD and E (over the arm seam).

1 " extensionCenter back

E

D

1 "

A

BC


3 "

3 "

D e s i g

n 1 ( o v e

r s h o

u l d e r )

D e s i g n

2 ( h a

l t e r )

Figure 1

1 " ex t en

s i on

C e n t e r b a c k

E

D

1 "

AB

C

Center front

D e s i g

n 4 c

o w l s l e

e v e

D e s i g n 3

Figure 2

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224 Chapter 12

PLEATED COWLSPleats control the fold of cowls and add fullness. The instructions that follow show the development of cowlswith pleats along the shoulderline. The same procedure can be used for cowls with pleats along the armholeand side seams. Cowl designs show some of the possible cowl variations created with pleats. Development of

Design 1 is illustrated. For practice, develop patterns for Designs 2 and 3.

Pleated Shoulder CowlDesign Analysis

Design 1 has two pleats at shoulderline with thecowl depth above the bust level.


Figure 1 Front

• Trace front pattern and square a slash line fromthe center front to bust point (bust level).

• Mark A between the neck and bust level.

• Mark B at mid-shoulder.

• Draw a line from A to B.

• Draw two slash lines, each starting betweenpoint B and the shoulder tip and ending betweenpoint A and bust level.



FRONT

S l a s h

S l a s h

Mid-shoulder B

A


SlashBust level

Trim

Figure 1

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COWLS 225

FRONT

C e n t e

r f r o n t

G u i d e l i n e

B A

4 "

Paper

Figure 2

Figure 2

• Fold the paper. Square a guideline 4 inches downfrom the fold.

• Cut slash lines to, not through, shoulder.

• Place section A-B on guideline and center front

of pattern, touching fold line. (Part of waist dartwill close and the slashed sections will spread.)

• Secure pattern sections.

• Draw a parallel guideline 2 inches in from centerfront, passing through pattern sections.

Figure 3

• Release the shoulderline.

• Spread each section 1 1/4 inches or more atshoulder (pleat depth), keeping each section onthe guideline. Secure.

•

Trace outline of the pattern and corner of eachspread section along shoulder for pleats.

• Remove the pattern.

• Mark centers of each pleat, connect the lines fol-lowing the angle of the arrows, and end at centermark. Mark notches at each pleat.

• Draw a parallel line 1 inch above A-B line forfold-back (facing).

Figure 4• Cut the pattern from paper. Unfold.

• Draw a bias grainline.

• Complete the pattern for test fit.


• To complete the back pattern, follow the instruc-

tions on page 215, Figure 5 as a guide.

FRONT

1 " Fold-back

G ui d el i n e

B A

Trim

Trim

Paper

Figure 3

FRONT PLEATED COWL

G u i d e l i n e

Facing

Figure 4

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226 Chapter 12

Design 1

B A

Blend

C ent er f r ont

MIDRIFF

Figure 1

EXAGGERATED COWLSFuller cowls can be achieved without pleats byspreading the pattern beyond the 90° square line atcenter front. This type of design requires a seam at

the center line. The empire pattern was used to de-velop the design illustrated; however, any patternmay be used.

High Exaggerated Cowl


Design 1 features deep cowl folds having a centerfront seam.


Measurement Needed

(12) ____________(one-fourth of neck measurement).

Figure 1 Front• Trace the basic front empire bodice and midriff

(chapter 9).

• Extend a line up from center front neck andsquare a line 1 inch above shoulder/neck equal toone-fourth of neck measurement plus 1/4 inch.

• Square down to shoulder. Blend a curved linewith the shoulderline. Label A and B.

• Draw slash lines, with one slash line squared tobust point.

• Cut the pattern from the paper.

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COWLS 227

Figure 2

S i d e

A r m h o

l e

W a i s t l i n

e

S h o u l d e r

Neck

C e n t e r f r o

n t

Figure 3

Figure 2

• Cut slash lines from center front to, not through,the sides and bust point.

• Close the dart legs. Tape.

• Place on the paper and spread equally, or vary to

control fullness, as shown.• Trace the outline of the pattern.

BACK

C e n t e r b a c k

MIDRIFF

1 "

1/4 of neck measurement

1 " Extension

Figure 4

Figure 3

• Exaggerated pattern shapes should be labeled foridentification.

• Draw a grainline for bias.

Figure 4 Back

• Trace the basic back empire bodice and midriff.

• Mark 1 inch up from the shoulder/neck.

• Square a line from center back touching a mark,equal to one-fourth of neck measurement plus1/4 inch.

• True the front and back shoulderlines.

• Draw a grainline and complete pattern for test fit.

Securing gathers: Center front bodice gathers should

be secured with twill tape cut to a finished length, oruse elastic to hold gathers in place.

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228 Chapter 12


Notch

D

CB

1 1/2 "

2 "

3 "

A

1 "Bust level

Figure 1

INSET COWLSInset cowls can be developed on any bodice, torso, or similar garment. Any styleline cowl inset can be de-signed. For purposes of instruction, the cowl inset is developed and does not represent a complete pattern.Back patterns are not illustrated. Designs 2 and 3 are included as practice problems; use the torso foundation

(see chapter 18).

V-Inset Cowl


Figure 1

•Trace the front two-dart pattern. Square a guide-line from center front to bust point (bust level).Plot the pattern as illustrated.

• Measure down 1/16 inch from the shoulder be-tween B and C, and draw a curved line (controlsfolds of the cowl when stitched to back shoulder).

• Crossmark for notch between C and D.


• Cut the inset from the pattern (A, B, C, and D ar-eas). (Lower section of pattern is used to com-plete the design.)

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COWLS 229

1

1 2 3 6 5 4 8 7 1 0 9 1 1 2 1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

1 0

1 1

1 2

1 3

1 4

A

A

B

C

D

Figure 2

B

D

C

Cowl inset

Paper

Facing 1 "

A

Figure 3

Figure 2

• Trace the inset cowl section on the center of thepaper.

• Locate the A-B measurement on one leg of thesquare ruler, and place at B and the other leg of ruler touching D.

• Draw a line along the ruler from B to A to D, asshown.

Figure 3

• Fold the paper on the A-B line. Trace the pattern.

• Draw a 1-inch line parallel with the A-B line. Foldthe A-B line. Trace the shoulder.

• Unfold and complete the pattern.

•Complete the back pattern and facing.

SELF-EVALUATION TESTCircle the correct answer(s). To check your answers, see page 805.

Cowls drape best

Controlscowl depth

The basic dart

Cowl grains

Warp and wefttension

Cowl folds 16. fall evenly from shoulders

17. can twist on one side

18. hang in free fall

Basic patterns 19. are not modified for biascut

20. are modified when cut onbias

21. use another pattern

The first test cut 22. eliminates stretch

23. is re-marked for the

second fit

24. is not required

An adjusted bias 25. is smaller

pattern 26. is somewhat larger

27. no changes are required

A cowl facing 28. is stitched to cowl

29. is a fold-back of any shape

30. is not required.

1.

when cut on bias2. when cut on true bias

3. when cut on any bias

4. Dart excess

5. Pleats

6. Pinning at shoulder

7. center front waist

8. waist dart

9. French dart at side seam

10. fall in opposite directions

11. fall in the same direction

12. fall in any direction

13. have the same tensions

14. have different tensions

15. no difference

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012 Capitulo 12