76 77

Tunta ychuo negro

Tunta and black chuo

76 77Pormenor de tendal de tunta (Puno, Per). [detail of a spread of tunta (puno, peru)]

78 79

TUNTA Y CHUO NEGRO

79

... La conservacin de los alimentos era uno de los temas cruciales para las sociedades del pasado. Los europeos no conocan ms que unos pocos procedimientos como el soleado y el salado, que servan para las carnes. Esos mismos mtodos eran conocidos en Amrica. Pero, en los Andes, las sociedades precolombinas, adicionalmente, descubrieron el chuo, un procedimiento para conservar la papa.

[The storage of foodstuff was one of the crucial issues for earlier societies. Europeans only knew a few techniques such as drying and salting processes, which served for meat. These same techniques were known in America. However, in the Andes, pre-Columbian societies additionally discovered chuo, a way to preserve potato]

tunta and black chuo

Campesinas puneas, a primeras horas de la maana, durante proceso de pisar papas expuestas a las heladas, para elaboracin del chuo negro en Ilave (Puno, Per). [peasant women from puno at dawn, during the process of stepping

potatoes exposed to the frost to make black chuo in ilave (puno, peru)]

80 81

... La papa en las punas, es sometida a variaciones de temperatura gracias a los cambios enormes entre el da y la noche. Luego, es pisada de manera muy suave, por nios y personas de poco peso que realizan su trabajo con arte y precisin. El resultado final es la eliminacin de todo el lquido que contiene la papa y, de este modo, convertida en un producto seco, puede durar muchos meses y hasta aos. As, la entrada de la papa a la historia universal fue a travs de la conservacin, revelando los avances de las sociedades andinas prehispnicas en esta materia.

Antonio Zapata

[Up in the mountains, potato was subjected to temperature variations due to the great degrees fluctuations between day and night. Later, the potatoes were stepped on very gently by children or light-weighted persons who performed this task with art and precision. The final result was the elimination of all the moisture from the potatoes and, afterwards, turned into a dried product, fit to last for many months, even years. Thus, the entrance of the potato to the universal history is through its conservation, revealing the advances of the pre-Hispanic Andean societies in this subject]

Pies de mujer ilavea en el proceso de elaboracin del chuo (Puno, Per). [feet of a woman from ilave in the elaborating process of chuo (puno, peru)]

Mujeres pisando papas expuestas a las heladas para la elaboracin del chuo negro en Cariquina Grande al borde del lago titicaca (Camacho, Bolivia). [women stepping on potatoes exposed to frost to manufacture black chuo in cariquina grande at the shores

of lake titicaca (camacho, bolivia)]

81

82 83Pozas en el ro Ilave para elaboracin de tunta (Puno, Per). [wells near ilave river to manufacture tunta (puno, peru)]

Campesinos descargando papa congelada en el ro Ilave para la elaboracin de tunta (Puno, Per). [peasants unloading frozen potatoes near the ilave river to manufacture tunta (puno, peru)]

82

84 85Campesinas colocando tunta para su secado (Puno, Per).

[peasant women placing tunta for drying (puno, peru)] 85

86 87

tendal de tunta listo para su seleccin (Puno, Per). [spread of tunta ready for selection (puno, peru)]

Campesinos de Ilave balanceando la tunta para su pelado final (Puno, Per). [peasants from ilave balancing the tunta for its final keeling (puno, peru)]

envasado de la tunta en Ilave, para su posterior comercializacin (Puno, Per). [packing of tunta in ilave for its commercialization (puno, peru)]

88 89

El viaje a la ciudad /Mercados

the trip to the city / the markets

88 89

Sacos de papa para la industria, listos para su traslado (Ayacucho, Per). [sacks of potatoes for industrial purposes, ready for their transportation (ayacucho, peru)]

90 91

EL VIAJE A LA CIUDAD / MERCADOS

91

[Pocas veces pensamos en todo el esfuerzo requerido para que la papa llegue a nuestra mesa. El traslado de los sacos de papa, desde el mismo campo de cultivo a los camiones, es la primera de las etapas. Le sigue la descarga en los grandes mercados urbanos, donde se requiere de otro eslabn para que esta mercadera circule]

[We seldom think of all the effort required to bring potatoes to our table. The transportation of the bags of potatoes, from the growing fields to the trucks, is the first stage. Following is the unloading into the great urban markets, where another link of the chain is needed for this produce to circulate]

the trip to the city / the markets

Costales de papa en el valle de Palca, a punto de ser cargados al camin que los transportar al mercado urbano (Cochabamba, Bolivia). [sacks of potatoes from the palca valley on the point of being loaded in the truck that will transport them to the

urban market (cochabamba, bolivia)]

92 93

feria de papa en mercado (Cochabamba, Bolivia). [potato fair at the market (cochabamba, bolivia)]

estibando sacos de papa para elaboracin de tunta en Ilave (Puno, Per). [loading sacks of potatoes for the manufacturing of tunta in ilave (puno, peru)]

vendedora de papa y oca en mercado (Cochabamba, Bolivia). [saleswoman of potato and oca at the market (cochabamba, bolivia)]

94 95

Comercializacin de tunta en mercado (Puno, Per). [commercialization of tunta at the market (puno, peru)] Mujeres comercializando papa en mercado (Cochabamba, Bolivia). [women commercializing potatoes in the market (cochabamba, bolivia)]

96 9796 97Puesto de comerciante de papas en el Mercado Mayorista N 1 en La victoria (Lima, Per). [potato merchants stand at the wholesalers market n 1 in la victoria (lima, peru)]

98 9999

Presentacin comercial de sacos de papa yungay, canchn y perricholi (Lima, Per). [commercial presentation of potatoes sacks of yungay, canchan and perricholi varieties of potatoes (lima, peru)]

Cargas de papa en el Mercado de Ia a las tres de la madrugada (Quito, ecuador). [loads of potatoes at ia market at three oclock in the morning (quito, ecuador)]

100 101

Mujeres negociando el precio de la papa en el Mercado Mayorista de huancayo (junn, Per). [women bargaining price for the potato in the wholesalers market of huancayo (junin, peru)]

vendedora de papa en mercado (riobamba, ecuador). [potato saleswoman in the market (riobamba, ecuador)]

vendedor de puesto del Mercado Mayorista N 1 en La victoria (Lima, Per). [salesmans stand at the wholesalers market n 1 in la victoria (lima, peru)]

vendedora de papa en costales de lana de llama (Cochabamba, Bolivia). [potato saleswoman with sacks of llamas wools (cochabamba, bolivia)]

102 103103vendedor de papa en puesto del mercado Minka (Callao, Per).

[potato salesman in a stand at the minka market (callao, peru)]

104 105

Los estibadoresthe stevedores

104 105estibador de papa en mercado (Cochabamba, Bolivia). [stevedore of potatoes at the market (cochabamba, bolivia)]

106 107

LOS ESTIBADORES

[Una vez en los centros de comercializacin, la figura del estibador o cargador aparece como el eslabn ms olvidado y, paradjicamente, ms notorio dentro del ciclo de la papa. La secuencia fotogrfica de Gonterre sobre estos incansables hombres no pretende ser una apologa a sus dursimas condiciones de trabajo; lo que se pretende es dirigir la atencin hacia este agobiante oficio, al mismo tiempo que se espera que alguna vez estas imgenes sean el documento de circunstancias que dejaron de ocurrir].

[Once in the commercialization centers, the image of the stevedore or porter comes as the most forgotten link and, paradoxically, the most notorious within the potatos cycle. Gonterres photographic sequence of these untiring men do not pretend to be an apology of their extremely hard working conditions; what it tries is to draw attention to this exhausting work, at the same time that it is hoped these images will be the documentation of circumstances that have already ceased to exist]

the stevedores

108 109

110 111110

112 113

114 115

116 117

estibador con saco de papa huayro en el Mercado Mayorista N 1 en La victoria (Lima, Per). [stevedore with a sack of huayco potato in the wholesalers market n 1 in la victoria (lima, peru)]

estibador en el mercado de Andahuaylas (Apurmac, Per). [stevedore in the market of andahuaylas (apurimac, peru)]

118 119118 119

InvestigacinConservacionismo

investigation / conservation

Ingeniera del INIAP, evaluando foliolos de papa en Saquisik (Cotopaxi, ecuador). [engineer of the iniap evaluating folliage of potatoes in saquisik (cotopaxi, ecuador)]

120 121

INVESTIGACIN

[Desde que qued demostrado que la papa es una aliada insuperable para la lucha contra el hambre, se profundiz en su conocimiento. La investigacin cientfica ha permitido aprovechar sus potencialidades y contribuye con el agricultor en las diversas etapas del cultivo].

[Since it has been established that the potato is an insuperable allay against hunger, knowledge of it has been deepened. Scientific investigation has allowed taking advantage of its potential and it contributes with the farmer during the different stages of the crop]

investigation

tesista de la universidad de Quito, mostrando ramos de flores de papas nativas (Quito, ecuador)[tesist student from the university of quito showing bunches of native potatoes flowers]

evaluando pigmento en pulpa de papa en ProINPA (Cochabamba, Bolivia). [evaluating the pigmento in the pulp of a potato at PrOINPA (cochabamba, bolivia)]

122 123

Biloga del CIP en el banco de germoplasma in vitro (Lima, Per). [cip biologist in the in vitro germoplasm bank (lima, peru)]

Investigador del laboratorio IBteN muestra plntulas in vitro de la variedad Imilla Negra (Bolivia). [Engineer from IBTEN laboratory shows in vitro seedlings of the Imilla Negra variety (Bolivia)]

124 125

CONSERVACIONISMO

[Desde que las papas nativas se han revalorado, el rol del conservacionista se ha hecho imprescindible. En algunos lugares de la regin andina, como en Ecuador, existen comunidades organizadas que educan a sus miembros sobre el potencial de este recurso].

[Since native potatoes have been taken into consideration, the role of the conservationist has been deemed essential. En some places of the Andean region, such as Ecuador, there are organized communities that educate their members on the potential of this resource]

conservation

Alumnas en la escuela de Pujili capacitndose en el cultivo de papas nativas (Cotopaxi, ecuador). [students at school in pujili learning about native potatoes farming (cotopaxi, ecuador)] Campesina mostrando un artculo periodstico sobre su cosecha con ms de 200 variedades de papas nativas (Camacho, Bolivia). [peasant woman showing a newspaper article about a harvest with more than 200 varieties of native potatoes (camacho, bolivia)]

126 127126

Nias atisbando aula en la que se capacita sobre diversidad de papas nativas (Cotopaxi, ecuador). [girls peeking a classroom where training about native potatoes diversity takes place (cotopaxi, ecuador) ]

128 129

Muestreo de matas de papa para observar su productividad (ecuador). [sampling of potatoes plants to observe their productivity (ecuador)]

Nia mostrando papas nativas en la escuela Csar Sandoval de Pujili (Cotopaxi, ecuador). [girl showing native potatoes at cesar sandoval school in pujili (cotopaxi, ecuador)]

130 131

Cocina y gastronomacooking and gastronomy

130 131Isabel lvarez, chef y directora del restaurante limeo el Seoro de Sulco, mostrando papa amarilla lista para la preparacin de la causa (Lima, Per). [isabel lvarez, chef and director of limenean restaurant el seorio de sulco, showing mashed yellow potato to prepare causa (lima, peru)]

132 133

COCINA Y GASTRONOMA

[As como un alimento con muchas propiedades nutritivas, la papa tambin es un fruto verstil en la elaboracin de comidas y potajes. Muchos de los platos preparados con papa, que son parte de la rica cocina popular del Per, han sido llevados a la alta cocina nacional e internacional].

[As well as a staple with many nutritious qualities, the potato is a versatile fruit for cooking food and meals. Many dishes prepared with potato, which are part of the rich popular Peruvian fare, have been taken to the national and international high cuisine]

cooking and gastronomy

Sopa de papa y tunta en Ilave (Puno, Per). [soup made of potato and tunta in ilave (puno, peru)] Huatia de papa con queso y salsa en campo de Bolivia. [huatia of potato with cheese and sauce in a field of bolivia]

Plato de papa blanca sancochada y carne de cuy frita en ecuador. [dish of boiled white potato and fried meat of guinea pig in ecuador]

joven chef del restaurante Parque Molle, en Cieneguilla (Lima, Per). [young chef from the restaurant parque molle, in cieneguilla (lima, peru)]

134 135135

Ivette Aliaga, creadora de la choco tunta. [Lima, Per]. [ivette aliaga, creator of the choco tunta (lima, peru)]

Potajes a base de papas nativas elaborados en la escuela de gastronoma Gastrotur Per (Lima, Per). [dishes prepared base on native potatoes at the gastronomical school gastrotur peru (lima, peru)]

136 137

Retratosfaces

136 137136 137Campesinos de Ballagan, ecuador. [peasants from ballagan, ecuador]

138 139

RETRATOSfaces

Agricultora de yatzaputzan (Guaranda, ecuador). [woman farmer from yatzaputzan (guaranda, ecuador)]

Altomisayoq de Moray (Cusco, Per). [altomisayoq from moray (cusco, peru)]

139

140 141

Comuneras de Quisini en las inmediaciones de Moray (Cusco, Per). [community women of quisini in the vicinities of moray (cusco, peru)]

Campesino de Maras (Cusco, Per). [peasant of maras (cusco, peru)] vendedora de papa en mercado de riobamba (ecuador). [potato saleswoman in the market of riobamba (ecuador)]

Campesino del Parque de la Papa (Cusco, Per). [peasant at the potato park (cusco, peru)] Anciana campesina del valle del Mantaro (huancayo, Per). [old peasant woman from the mantaro valley (huancayo, peru)]

142 143Nia de Marcobamba al lado de un almacn (Guaranda, ecuador). [girl from marcobamba besides a storehouse (guaranda, ecuador)]

Nio campesino en el Parque de la Papa (Cusco, Per). [peasant boy in the potato park (cusco, peru)]

joven agricultora de ecuador. [young woman farmer from ecuador)]

142

144 145

La fotografa de arriba se convirti en la

imagen emblemtica de Papa, Madre cada vez que la serie se exhibi. Aprovechamos la

visita que hiciramos para entrevisitar a Jos Palomino en Andahuaylas para conocer al

agricultor cuyas manos son ya clebres. Su

nombre: roberto Maucaylle hurtado, lder

campesino y conservacionista de 35 aos,

natural de Kishuar, Andahuaylas.

[The photography above became the emblematic image of Papa, Madre each time the series was exhibited. We took advantage of visit we paid to interview Jos Palomino in Andahuaylas to meet the farmer whose hands were already

famous. His name: roberto Maucaylle Hurtado, 35 years old peasant leader and conservacionist, from Kishuar, Andahuaylas]

Manos de agricultores de ecuador, Per y Bolivia. [hands of farmers from ecuador, peru and bolivia]

Corte de la papa llamada labios de seorita en manos de campesino de Andahuaylas (Apurmac, Per). [slice of a potato called labios de seorita (maidens lips) in the hands of a peasant from andahuaylas (apurimac, peru)]

145

146 147

Cortes de diversas variedades de papa. [slices of different varieties of potatoes]

148 149

una pequesima muestra de los innumerables tipos de flores de las papas nativas. [a very small sample of the innumerables types of native potatoes flowers]

150 151

JEAN-LOUIS GONTERRE, biografajean-louis gonterre, biography

Agradecimientos

expresamos nuestro agradecimiento a las siguientes personas e instituciones:

A Giancarlo de Picciotto (Suiza), Cesarina Quintana (Per), Galo Snchez (ecuador), Graldine Zeuner y Marcelo Collao (Bolivia), de la Agencia Suiza para el desarrollo y la Cooperacin

(CoSude), por su valioso apoyo para llevar a cabo el Proyecto del Ao Internacional de la Papa 2008 en los mbitos nacionales y regional andino.

A felipe Balderrama y Patricia Meneces de la fundacin ProINPA que estuvieron a cargo de las actividades implementadas en Bolivia.

A hugo Martnez encargado de las exposiciones en ecuador.

A oscar delgado de CAPAC Per, por su inagotable colaboracin para el trabajo de campo y poner a disposicin su amplio conocimiento de las papas nativas en las zonas andinas.

A vernica valcarcel, Alice thomann, Cristina fonseca, Carmen Calle y jorge Andrade de la Iniciativa Papa Andina - Centro Internacional de la Papa (CIP), por su importante colaboracin

en varias etapas del trabajo realizado por jean-Louis y al desarrollo de diversos conceptos que se implementaron.

A Antonio Palomino y roberto Maucaylle en Andahuaylas.

Al equipo del Ao Internacional de la Papa del Ministerio de Agricultura (Per) que permiti ampliar la cobertura de las exhibiciones tanto a nivel nacional como internacional.

A todas las galeras y salas de exhibicin que gentilmente cedieron sus instalaciones para el montaje de las diversas exposiciones realizadas durante el 2008.

[Acknowledgements

We would like to express our acknowledgements to the following persons and institutions:

To Giancarlo de Picciotto (Switzerland), Cesarina Quintana (Per), Galo Snchez (Ecuador), Graldine Zeuner and Marcelo Collao (Bolivia), from the Swiss Agency of Development and

Cooperation (SDC), for their invaluable support to carry out the International Year of the Potato 2008 Project, both in national quarters and in the Andean region.

To Felipe Balderrama and Patricia Meneces, from the Fundacin PrOINPA, who were in charge of the activities performed in Bolivia.

To Hugo Martnez who was in charge of the exhibitions in Ecuador.

To Oscar Delgado, from CAPAC Per, for his untiring assistance in the field work and for providing his vast knowledge on native potatoes in the Andean zones.

To Vernica Valcarcel, Alice Thomann, Cristina Fonseca, Carmen Calle and Jorge Andrade from Papa Andina Initiative - International Potato Center (CIP), for their valuable assistance

in various steps of the work done by Jean-Louis and for the development of different implemented concepts.

To Antonio Palomino and roberto Maucaylle from Andahuaylas.

To the team of the International Year of the Potato from the Ministry of Agriculture (Per) that allowed to expand the exposure of the exhibitions both nationally and internationally.

To all the galleries and exhibitions rooms that kindly gave their venues to mount the different displays shown during the year 2008]

fotgrafo nacido en Aix-en Provence, francia.

ha presentado sus series fotogrficas Los sin tierra de Brasil, Los Tuaregs, Timia: un oasis en el Sahara, Pueblos de la arena, La papa y Miradas de mujeres, en galeras y museos de francia, Alemania, Mxico,

Bolivia, ecuador, Brasil, entre otros pases.

Su obra ha sido adquirida por el Museo Nacional de

la fotografa de Chalon-sur-Saone, el Museo de las

Civilizaciones de St. just-St. rambert y el Museo de

Allard, as como en colecciones en Mxico, estados

unidos, Inglaterra y Brasil.

en 1994 comienza su romance con la papa, a la que

ha dedicado un gran nmero de muestras itinerantes e instalaciones al aire libre, y que contina hasta la actualidad.

[Photographer born in Aix-en Provence, France.

He has presented his photographic series the no land people from Brazil, the tuaregs, timia: an oasis in the Sahara, Sand people, the potato and Womens gaze, in galleries and museums in France, Germany, Mexico, Bolivia, Ecuador, Brazil among other countries.

His work has been acquired by the National Museum of Photography of Chalon-sur-Saone, the Museum of Civilizations of St. Just-St. rambert and the Allard Museum, as well as by collections in Mexico, the United States, England and Brazil.

In 1994 his romance with the potato starts, to which he has dedicated a great number of itinerant shows and outdoor installations, and it continues up to present]

Variedad Quecorani en Andahuaylas (Apurmac, Per). [quecorani variety in andahualyas (apurimac, peru)]

Caratula La Papa 1Guardas libro papa1OK LIBRO LA PAPA_InterioresGuardas libro papa2Caratula La Papa 2