Monedas Argentinas 1

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    F O R E I G N E R S

    Yes, We Have No Monedas !Inside the world's most annoying economic crisis.

    By Joe KeohanePosted Wednesday, Dec. 3, 2008, at 6:58 AM ET

    It was no surprise that the cab driver tried to rip us off.We're in Buenos Aires, Argentina, after all, and we'dmade the rookie error of requesting a vague destinationinstead of giving a precise addressnaturally heinterpreted this as a license to take us from La Boca tothe Plaza de Mayo by way of southern Nicaragua. What we hadn't expected was the predicament thedriver found himself in when it came time to pay. The fare had come to 14 pesos and 6 centavos. I

    proffered a 20-peso note (worth about $6.70), and he handed back 50 centavos, suggesting that I wasgoing to be shorted 44 centavos. Then he realized that continuing on this course would require him to giveme two 2-peso notes and a 1-peso coin. He sighed dramatically and gave me three 2-peso notes instead.Factoring in the 50 centavos he had already handed over, this effectively reduced the fare to 13.50 pesos,which, for reasons I'll get to in a moment, is actually more than 14.50 pesos.

    Welcome to the world's strangest economic crisis. Argentina in generaland Buenos Aires in particularis presently in the grip of a moneda , or coin, shortage. Everywhere you look, there are signsreading, " NO HAY MONEDAS ." As a result, vendors here are more likely to decline to sell you somethingthan to cough up any of their increasingly precious coins in change. I've tried to buy a 2-peso candy bar with a 5-peso note only to be refused, suggesting that the 2-peso sale is worth less to the vendor than the

    1-peso coin he would be forced to give me in change. When my wife went to buy a 10-trip subway pass,which retails for 9 pesos, she offered a 20-peso note and received 12 pesos in bills as change. This iscommonplacea daily, if not hourly, occurrence. It's taken for granted that the peso coin is more valuablethan the 2-peso note.

    No one can say what's causing this absurd situation. The government accuses Argentines of hoardingcoins, which is true, at least to some extent. When even the most insignificant purchase requires the sameorder of planning and precision as a long-range missile strike, you can hardly blame people for keeping a

    jar of monedas safe at home. The people, in turn, fault the government for not minting enough coins. Infact, the nation's central bank has produced a record number of monedas this year, and the problem hasgotten even worse. Everyone blames the bus companies, whose buses accept only monedas . (Buenos

    Aires' 140-plus bus routes are run by a number of separate, private companies.) These companies,exploiting a loophole in the law, run side businesses that will exchange clients' bills for monedas for a 3 percent service fee. This is legal, but the business community also routinely complains of being forced intothe clutches of a thriving moneda black marketrun by the local mob, or the bus companies, or bothinwhich coins sell for a premium of between 5 percent and 10 percent. The bus companies steadfastly denyany involvement in this racket, but their claims were undercut by the discovery of a hoard of 13 millioncoins, amounting to 5 million pesos, in one company's warehouse this October.

    Those coins were confiscated, but the 5 million pesos were returned to the companyin billswhichcould be seen as a fine of sorts. The government has also passed laws requiring banks to provide customerswith 100 pesos' worth of change on demand. (The banks ignored this because, they said, their precious

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