Patrones Para Calzado Deportivo(1)

8/20/2019 Patrones Para Calzado Deportivo(1)

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THE TRAINING SHOE

This chapter describes the production of patterns for a men’s

training jogging shoe. There is an almost infinite number of

variations in trainer design, and you can of course modify

this basic style to suit your own ideas.

In fact, what in Britain are known as “Trainers”

covers a wide range of sports/leisure footwear. The

pattern produced here is most suited to the light

weight ‘jogging’ type of shoe.

Its upper (in the body) would be made from com-

bined material, e.g. woven synthetic/foam/lining

with a suede split mudguard/toecap and outside

counter. The small back facing an side flash

(side stripe) would be from unsupported PVC.

Producing the patterns as a wholecut (as is done here) inolves a certain amount of springing. This distorsion may lead to prolems in lasting and/or a distorted appearence in the finished shoe. If this happens, the pattern and if

necessary the design, should be modified so that springing can be avoided. This can be done for example by making

the upper construction a three-quarter cut, a seam-to-toe, or as a vamp and quarter.

The back height on this pattern has been deliberately kept lower than that on many present day training shoes to

avoid the risk of damaging the back of the ankle in the achilles tendon region.

1. The first step is to draw round the mean forme. You will find the production of this particular training

shoe standard easier if you make a special mean forme, based on the inside rather the outside forme.

Note: instead of follwing the usual procedure of drawing round the outside forme and then laying the inside over

and pivoting it to follow the spring of the outside, the opposite is done; so that the outside forme is sprung down

dea dened , t o f o l l o w the ins ide . T h is w i l l b e o f pa r t i cu la r he lp when ca r ry ing o ut s t ep 4 .

Mean FormeSize 8L567

4 june 93

1


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2. Mark the following reference point s: -

S = seat corner

T = tip of toe

3

CP = 1/5 of Standatrd Last Length measured upwards from S i.e. 2 / ” (55mm) on a size 816

B = 5/8” (15 mm) above CP This is the back high position and in 1/8” (3 mm) higher than the

traditional shoe height because of the thick sock inserted after lasting and because of the

effects of a padded collarbeing sewn to the topline.

U = 1/4 Standard Last Length from S i.e. 2¾” (70 mm) on a size 8

5 A = 1/5 Standard Las t Length measured vertically from U + 1/8 (3 mm) i.e. 2 / ” (58 mm) on

16

size 8. This is the under ankle height position.

V = ¾ of Standard Las t Length measured forwards from CP i.e. 8¼” (210 mm) on a size 8.

V¹ = ¼” (6 mm) forwards of V.

I = ¼ Standard Last Length + ¼” (6mm) from V i.e. 3½” (90 mm) on a size 8.

B

CP

A

U

S

I

V1 V

T

2


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3. Draw in feint constrution lines from B passing through A and a further line joining I to U

4. The crease l ine should now be drawn in, but

is done differently from other patterns.

From a point ¼” (6 mm) below I on line

I-U, draw a feint line (a) passing through

the top pf the toe. Then draw another

line (b) passing through V¹. The actual

crease line (c then bisects these lines.

Having a crease line which coivers the whole

length of the front means that the majority of

parts will lie flat against each other. This is

useful for pre-closing assembly and for fitting

upers into work holders used for computer

stitching.

5 . I t can be seen in the d iagram opposi te that a

portion of the toe area now stands above the

topline. This must now be sprung down,

otherwise there will not be enough lasting

allowance at the toe.

Select the pivot point as shown, midway

through the forme in line with where the

crease line cuts through the forme edge.

place trhe mean forme over your drawing to

carry out this operation and pivot down untillthe top of the toe lies on the crease line.Point

T will of course now be in line the new position

and the old line can be rubbed out.

The slight dip in the bottom edge caused by

springing the toe down should be filled in to

leave a smooth line.

B

CP

A

U

S

I

V1 V

T

a

c

b

pivot

r e a s e

c l i n e

pi o v t

3


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B

CP

A

US

I

V1 V

T

r e a e e

c s l i n

6. Sketch in the top line shape.

3This should start at 90° to the crease line in point V¹ position. The widest point in this area is / ” (10 mm)8

1from the crease line and at the top of the facing area, it is / ” (3 mm) from the creaese line. The line continues

8

passing through point A and on to B. The topline has been curved upwards between A and B to give the

appearence of a cut-away tab, but this is purely a design feature and may be omitted.

Note - on many trainers the back is raised into a full tab at point B, but this risks irritating the back of

the ankle in wear.

57. Add / ” (15 mm) last ing a llowance to the bot tom edge

8

B

CP

A

US

I

V1 V

T

c r e a s e n e l i

4


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m m 3 7

B

CP

A

U S

I

V1 V

T

l c r e a

s e i n e

3 7 m m

8. Create the outsdide counter shape. this passes ¼” (6 mm) beyond point U at the bottom and meets the back

curve at the counter point.

The back tab facing wich lies above the counter, should also be drawn. It must be of sufficient width

at its narrowest point, i.e. CP, to hide the zig-zagged backseam.

9. Draw in the facing shape. This is ¾” (18mm) wide along the sides and ½” (12 mm) at the front.

1110. Mark the eyelet positions. These are / ” (17 mm) apart in this case.16

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B

CP

A

U

S

I

V1 V

T

c r s l n e a e i

e

3 m 7 m

B

CP

A

US

I

V1 V

T

r e a e l e

c s i n

7 m m 3

B

CP

A

U

S

111. Sketch in the mudguard shape. This starts 1 / ” (28 mm) up the front from point T. at 90° to the cease8

line.

At the rear end, it c rosses over the facing to create a strengthener for the bottom l ace hole. This also serves

to increase lateral support for the runner in wear.

112. Add / ” (3 mm) a llowance a t point S and

8

1 mm at CP. Join these points together to

make a fold line for the outside counter.

Continue this straight line so that it meets

up with the lasting allowance.

Adjust the back curve o f the upper i f neces-

sary, between CP and S so that it lies inside

the fold line of the outside counter. Also,

continue the curve downards to meet the

lasting edge.

1313. Sketch in the flash. In the diagram, the flash is 1 / ” (20 mm) away from the topline at its narrowest

16

3point. The widest of the strip is / ” (10 mm).8

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I

1 V e s c r a e l i n e

2 0 m m

m 2 5 m

Trainer Standard

Size 8

M9798

15 Nov 93

J Barry

14. Mark the tongue shape. Start this at 90° to the crease line, 1” (25 mm) beyond the corner of the facing (point

I) and end it ¾” (20 mm) forwards of point V¹. Make it approximately 1¾” (45 mm) wide at its widest

point.

The process is now complete, so construction lines can be rubbed out and the standard cut out.

Remember mark on approriate deta ils such as Description, Size, Pattern/Last No., Date, and your name.

4 m5 m

7


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T i r t dar a ne S an r d

iz S e 8M 7 9 98

v 315 No 9r r y J Ba

dBo y

PRODUCING TRAINER SHOE SECTIONAL PATTERNS

1. Body

Lay the crease line of the Standard to the fold line of the paper, as shown in the diagram.

• Mark round the topline

• Mark round the toe cap/mudguard line

• Mark down the back curve of the upper

(Not included outside counter fold line)

• Mark round the outside counter line

• Mark through the side flash lines

• Mark round the lasting edge

5• Cut out the pattern, also making a / ”16

(8 mm) cut back around the toe cap and

outside counter areas to help lasting

• Cut in the necessary stitch

markers lines

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u g r dM d ua

f c nga i

2. Toe Cap/Mudguard

Don’t forget to insert a pricker for the bottom

eyelet.

3. Facing

This again is cut from folded paper, without a llowances.The lace positions must of course be

marked, together with a mark of the positioning of the strengthener for the bottom lace hole.

There are no allowances to this section, so simply lay the crease line of the standard to the fold line of

the paper, mak round the section and cut out.

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Flash

Tongue

r d dTraine Stan ar

Size 8M9 879

5 o 931 N v

yJ Barr

4. Side Flash

• Lay the standard to a single (not folded) piece of paper and mark through the

outline of the side flash

5• Add / ” (8 mm) underlay to the rear end16

• Add ½” (12 mm) underlay to the front

ends

4. Tongue

Lay the crease line of standard to

folded paper and mark round the

tongue section. Also, trace

round the throat of the upper/

facing to create a location mark.

6. Outside Counter

Lay the outside counter fold line

of the standard to folded paper

as shown.

Mark round the outside countersection and cut a ‘V’ in the cen-

tre of the lasting edge.

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Outside Counter

T r a i n e r S t a n d a r d z e 8 S i M 9 7 9 8 15 N o v 9 3 J B a r r y

aB ck facing

This is the completed outside counter pattern.

4. Back Facing

To cut the back tab facing, lay the standard against the fold of the paper as shown and mark round the

section. Continue the bottom curve of the section so that it passes underneath the outside counter shape.

This is the completed pattern for the back facing.

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c o l l

a r

c l l

r

o a

l

c o

l a

r f o l d

e d

l i n

e

3 0 m m B

l

c o l a

r

c o l l a r

c o

l l a r

f o

l d e

d

l i n e

0 3

m m

4. Collar/Quarter Lining

3Mark the collar position onto the standard, the width is 1 / ” (30 mm) away from the topline. The collar

16

line in this design is brought down to the bottom edge, about half way round to form a quar ter lining. The1

collar fold line is from B to a point / ” (3 mm) inside the bottom corner of the back curve (not outside)8

counter).

To cut the collar pattern:-

Lay the collar old line to the folde of the paper, mark through to the collar l ines, mark the bottom edge of

the standard and the topline as far as the collar marks.

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c lar ol

l

o r i g

i n a

w n e

2 d iv t poi tn p o n

i t t1st p vo poin

Collar

Note-. before cutting out, it is necessary to spring the font section of the collar. This can be

done as shown in the diagram. The total distance sprung down at the end of the collar is 5/16” (8 mm), but

this is done in two stages. Half the amountis sprung dpown from the first pivot point and the rest from

the sewcond one.

You should then finsh up with lines in the position of those marked “new” in the diagram.

The amount of springing down needeb wi ll vary according to the nature of the collar material used and

the amount of foam padding inserted. As an alternative to springing, shorteting the collar can achieve

same effect in some cases.

On the lasting edge of the collar/quarter lining, make the edge either scalloped, cut back, or with a large5

‘V’ in the centre, to a depth of / ” (8 mm).16

This completes the sectionall patterns. Make sure every section is marked with the relevant information such as

Description, Size, Pattern/Last no. and Date.

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THE BASKETBALL BOOT

The basketball boot or high top sports shoe as it is also known, varies

considerably in upper construction from one style to another

Our example shown here is made in a relatively simple

way compared to many on the market at the present

time.

Apart from tre greater number of decorative pieces

sewn on the upper, boots may also have:-

• a sprung on mudguard to reduce pleats in toe lasting

• a ‘V’ seam in the lower part of the outside counter to give a closer fit to the last

• upper sections sewn onto a felt base, with another thin stuck-on lining attached during closing

• a zig-zagged backseam with backstrap (no outside counter) - to give a closer fitting back

• a complex tongue, with sprung-on section, and separate lining and foam padding

Produccing patterns for a complex upper such as a basketball boot is not a job for a novice pattern cutter. If you

have not already done so it would be advisable to produce the trainer pattern before attempting this style. A mean

forme wich is based on the spring of the inside forme rather than the outside, should be used.

1. Mark the joint/tread position on your mean forme.

The ideal way is to first mark the position on both inside and outside formes whilst still on the last and

then mark the average of these on the mean forme. Alternatively, lay the mean forme against the last

to mark the position.

2. Draw a base line and vertical.

Take a sufficiently latge piece of paper to allow for a boot standard. Then draw a horizontal base line

with a vertical at one end to the height of the heel pitch of the last.

J

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J

3. Draw round the mean forme. Position the joint on the base line and the seat on the vertical pitch height

mark.

S = seat corner

T = ½” (12 mm) above I

4. Mark the follwing reference points:-

3 CP = 1/5 of Standatrd Last Length measured upwards from S i.e. 2 / ” (55mm) on a size 8

16

V = ¾ of Standard Last Length measured forwards from CP i.e. 8¼” (210 mm) on a size 8

3 V ¹ = / ” (10 mm) forwards from V

8

I = ¼ Standard Last Length from V i.e. 2¼” (70 mm) on a size 8

4. Mark the the long heel and short heel lines. The short heel is 8° above the long heel and is the same length

as the long heel

5. Mark point M. This is half way along the short heel l ine

C P

S

I

V

1 V

T

15

C P

S

I

V 1

V

T

M

h r

s o

t h e e l l o n

h e e l

g


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7. Draw in the vertical line. This is at 90° to the base line passing through point M.

18. Mark a point 5 / ” (130 mm) up the vertical from the bottom edge of the mean forme line and draw a8

3 1horizontal line extending 2 / ” (60 mm) towards the back and 2 / ” (54 mm) towards the front. this is the

8 8

top of leg line.

9. Mark in a line up the cone ¼” (6 mm) in from5

V and / ” (10 mm) in from I. This is to al low 8

space for lacing up.

10. Draw in the back line.

Join the rear of the top o f leg line to the

seat corner points

The outside counter fold line is 1 mm away at 1

CP and / ” (3 mm) away at S.8

V¹V

IT

M

90°

60 mm54 mm

V¹ V

I

T

1 0 m m

6 m m

M

90°

CP

S

outside counter fold line

b

k

i

e

a c

l n

16


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J

V¹V

I

T

MF

111. Draw in the crease line in the same way as wa done for the trainer, with feint lines from / ” (3 mm) below 8

I through V¹ and through the top of the toe. The actual crease line then b isects these lines.

Remember also to pivot down the toe area wich lies above the new crease line (as was done before on

the trainer).

112. Draw a feint line joining T to X where the vertical line crosses the forme and mark point F 1 / ” (29 mm)

8

down this line from T.

13. Sketch in the mudguard shape.

3- start 1” (25 mm) up from the toe at 90° to the crease line. It becomes 1 / ” (30 mm) deep at it widest 16

point, with a ½” (12 mm) deep dip before it raises to make a facing. The facing finishes

approximately at right angles to the facing line.

Note: measurements for the mudguard will vary according

to the toe depth of the last being used.

J

V¹V

X

5 m m

2

0 mm3

3 0 m m 1 5

m m

17

X


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V¹V

I

T

X

CP

S

5 m m F

V¹

V

I

T

X

CP

S

m 5 m

F

21 8 m m

1 5 m m

z i -

g

d

g z a g e

914. Sketch the throat shape. Start from V¹ at 90° to the crease line. The throat is / ” (15 mm) wide where16

it meets the facing.

15. Draw the quarter and topline shape.

3 - the dip in the quarter where it crosses point F is / ” (5 mm) wide.16

- the topline rises ¼” (6 mm) above the horizontal line in the centre (over the vertical line).

16. Mark a line for the position of the zig-zag seam joining vamp to quarters.

5 - this is parallel to T - X, / ” (15 mm) away 8

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V

I

T

X

S

5 m m F

2 8 m1 m

1 5 m m

1 6 m m

m38 m

J

V

I

T

8 m m

2 0 m m V¹

z i g - z a g g e d

17. Sketch the outside counter shape.

- from CP to 5” (128 mm) forwards of S.

Sketch in the two part collar shape and the back facing.

- the collar is 1½” (38 mm) away from the front edge of the boot leg.

- thew collar ia divided mid-way up

3 - the back facing starts 1 / ” (35 mm)8

away from the back line where it is

-

16. Draw l ines for the s ide f lash, paral lel to the

zig-zag line. as shown.

13 also draw the eyelet facing line / ”

16

5 16 mm deep (approximately / ”8

(20 mm) away from the top edge.

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z i g - z a

g g e d

l a s g a l l o w e t i n

a nc

1 m 5 2 m

S

5 7 m m

V

z i g - z a

g e d

g

Ba s ke t ba l l Boo t

iS ze 8

W8 45 La s t

r 21 Ma c h 9 3

BC. err y

520. Add / ” (15 mm) las ting allowance to the bottom edge.8

- also mark the eyelet positions.

- mark the tongue shape wich start s 6” (152 mm)1

from V and is2 / ” (57 mm) at its widest point 45

and finishes / ” (8 mm) beyond the throat.16

21. Cut the s tandard out, marking on detai ls of

- Description

- Size

- Pattern No./Description

- Date

- Name

N.B. This type of standard with a st raight back is only suitable for relatively low boots. Higher boots require

a curved back follwing the shape of the foot/ankle.

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Ba e t b B o t s k a l l o

i 8S ze8 La W 45 s

t

1 Marc h

2

9 3

. Be rC r y

cut back

d

z i g - z

a g g e

n l a s t i n g a l l o w a ce

PRODUCING MEN’S BASKETBALL BOOT SECTIONAL PATTERNS

1. Vamp

Lay the crease line of the

5Before starting these patterns, mark a / ” (8 mm) cut-back section along the lasting edge in the areas where the16

mudguard and outside counters lie,

N.ote: do not cut this area off

- mark around the throat, as far as the

zig-zag seam line

- mark through the zig-zag seam line

- mark around the lasting edge

- mark through mudguard, side facing

and outside counter lines

Cut the section out, including stitch marks for

mudguard, side facing and ourside counter

5 - also make a / “ (8 mm) cut back in the16

section of the lasting edge covered by

the mudguard and outside counter fol-

lowing the cut back line marked on the

standard

Standard to the fold of the paper

a pv m

z i g - z a g d g e z i g -

a g g e d z

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d ua dMu g r

ua r Q rte

z i g - z a

g e

g

d

r er c nColla /low s tio

2. Mudguard/Toe Cap

Lay the crease line of the standard to the fold of

the paper

- mark around the mudguard/toe

cap shape

- mark around the lasting edge

- prick through the eyelet marks

Cut the section out, including the

centre of the toe

3. Collar (lower section)

Lay the back line of the standard to the

fold of the paper.

- mark through the lines showing the

lower section of the collar

5 - add / ” (8 mm) underlay allowance16

to the bottom edge.

- includ stitch marks for the underlay

and back facing.

4. Quarter

Lay the back line of the

standard to the fold of he

paper

- mark through the5

/ ” (8mm) cut 16

back line

- mark through the zig-

zag seam line

- mark from the top of the zig-

zag seam along the top of the

quarter to the collar line, then

mark through the line showing the

outline of the collar

Cut the section out including marks for facings, outside counter and pri ckers for eyelets. For a more

economical pattern this section could be made as a singl e quarter with a zig-zagged backseam. This could

then be curved in at the bottom to follow the back of the shape of the last.

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c acBa k f ing

i oOuts de C unter

f a c i n g

d fl hSi e as

5 Also cut the Collar (upper section) and Back Fac ing in the same way, aga in adding and underlay of / ”16

(8 mm) to the bottom edge. A pat tern will also be required for the collar foam padding. Make this the1

same size as the collar opening in the standard, less / ” (3 mm) all round, made as a whole cut to pass right 8

round tge back.

N.ote - a small outward centre notch should be included in the top edge of the collar (upper section) to aid stitching

in the collar lining.

5. Outside counter

Lay the outside counter fold line of the standard to the fold of the paper

- mark through the outside counter line

- mark along the lasting edg

5Cut the section out, including a large ‘V’ in the centre of the lasting edge, / ” (8 mm) deep16

6. Eyelet Facing

Copy this from the standard onto single paper, adding5 / ” (8 mm) underlay al lowance a t each end16

- include prickers for the eyelets.

7. Side Flash

Copy from the standard onto single paper, adding5 / ” )8 mm) under lay to the bo ttom edge

16

- include eyelet pricker and underlay stitch

mark

23

a u p r e oColl r/ p e s cti n


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8. Collar Lining

5 - mark round the section and cut out a / ” (8 mm) deep scallop section in the lasting edge16

- description

- size

- pattern/last no.

- date

- your name

1Mark the front edge of the lining on the standard; as shown an also mark he lining fold line, / ” (3 mm)8

in from the back line and lay this to the fold of the paper

and a small centre notch in the top edge. In some cases the collar lining will need a further

shortening by moving back the whole front edge to reduce creasing. This should be checked when

pattern trials are produced.

9. Tongue

Lay the crease line of the standard to the folded paper

- mark through the tongue outline and round the throat open-

ing

- cut out the section including a location mark for positioning

in the throat

The sectional patterns for this basketball boot are now complete, Make sure each pattern is marked with details

of:-

In practice this lining will not reach to the bottom

once the foam padding is inserted during closing.

liningfold line

a ke t l o

B s ba l B o t

i 8S ze

W8 L 45 a s t 2 M rc h 1 a

9 3

BerrC. y

lining

z i g - z a

g g e d

Col ar ini gl l n

T nguo e

Extracted from

THE PATTERN CUTER’S HANDBOOK Michael H. Sharp

Published by The Footwear OPEN TECH UnitAccrington and Rossendale College

Documents

Patrones Para Calzado Deportivo(1)