Spain Gourmetour 78 (2010)

EDIT

ORIA

L1050. Fecha de nacimiento de la lengua castellana, más conocida con el nombre deespañol. Siguiendo el rastro de los textos fundadores de este idioma, habladoactualmente por 425 millones de personas, descubrirá una rica gastronomía enraizadaen la tradición.Cinco siglos más tarde, las caravelas españolas trajeron en sus bodegas numerosasespecies desconocidas en Europa, como la papaya y el mango, actualmente en víasde convertirse en otro éxito de exportación.A lo largo de su historia, como en el caso de los demás países de la cuencamediterránea, España ha producido y exportado miel, aromatizada con mil flores,muestra de la riqueza de su vegetación.Pero España ocupa hoy también un puesto de vanguardia gracias a sus cocineros, dereconocido prestigio; hacemos un balance de la evolución de este sector y del papeldesempeñado por la investigación dentro del mismo. ¡Un insólito binomio entrefogones y ciencia!Le proponemos asimismo una excursión por Andalucía, donde, ¡oh sorpresa!, degustaráunos vinos tintos de gran calidad.Y para terminar, le deseamos unas felices fiestas, regadas con Cava.

Cathy BoiracRedactor [email protected]

Redactor JefeCathy Boirac

Coodinadores EditorialesAlmudena Muyo González yAlmudena Martín Rueda

Periodista en prácticasSantiago Sánchez Segura

FototecaMabel Manso

Secretaria de RedacciónÁngela Castilla

Diseño y Dirección de ArteManuel Estrada, Diseño Gráfico

MapasJavier Belloso

FotomecánicaEspacio y Punto

ImprimeArtes Gráficas Luis Pérez SA

PublicidadCEDISATel.: (34) 913 080 644Fax: (34) 913 105 [email protected]

D.L.: M.51647-2002

ISSN: 1696-1021

NIPO: 705-09-010-X

EditaICEXSecretaría de Estado de Turismo y Comercio,Ministerio de Industria, Turismo y ComercioP.º de la Castellana, 1428046 MadridTel.: (34) 913 496 243Fax: (34) 914 358 876www.icex.es

PortadaJuan Manuel Sanz/©ICEXAgradecimiento a pastelería “La Oriental”

Información y Suscripciones:Spain Gourmetour es una publicación delInstituto Español de Comercio Exterior (ICEX),perteneciente a la Secretaría de Estado deTurismo y Comercio del Ministerio deIndustria, Turismo y Comercio. Su objetivo espromocionar los alimentos y vinos de España,así como su gastronomía y su cultura. La revistase edita de forma cuatrimestral en cuatroidiomas: inglés, francés, alemán y español. Sedistribuye gratuitamente sólo a importadores,distribuidores, periodistas especializados, chefs,escuelas de cocina y otros profesionales delsector alimentario. Si desea suscribirse a SpainGourmetour, por favor, contacte con lasOficinas Económicas y Comerciales de lasEmbajadas de España (ver lista en las páginas124 y 125). Las opiniones expresadas por losautores de los artículos no son compartidasnecesariamente por el Instituto Españolde Comercio Exterior (ICEX), que no se haceresponsable de los posibles errores u omisionesincluidos en el texto.

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EDIT

Editor-in-chiefCathy Boirac

Publication CoordinatorsAlmudena MuyoAlmudena Martín Rueda

Intern JournalistSantiago Sánchez Segura

Photographic ArchiveMabel Manso

Editorial SecretaryÁngela Castilla

Design and Art DirectionManuel Estrada, Diseño Gráfico

LayoutChema Bermejo

MapsJavier Belloso

Color SeparationsEspacio y Punto

Printed in SpainArtes Gráficas Luis Pérez SA

AdvertisingCEDISATel.: (+34) 913 080 644Fax: (+34) 913 105 [email protected]

D.L.: M.45.307-1990

ISSN: 0214-2937

NIPO: 705-09-008-1

PublisherICEXState Secretary for Tourism and CommercePº de la Castellana, 1428046 MadridTel.: (+34) 913 496 244Fax: (+34) 914 358 876www.icex.es

CoverJuan Manuel Sanz/©ICEXSpecial thanks to Pastelería La Oriental.

Information and Subscription:Spain Gourmetour is a publication of theSpanish Institute for Foreign Trade(ICEX) of the State Secretary for Tourismand Commerce to promote Spain’s foodand wines, as well as cuisine and culture.The magazine is issued three times a yearin English, French, German and Spanishand is only and exclusively distributed,free of charge, to trade professionals,specialized journalists, chefs, cookingschools and other food and wineprofessionals. For more information,please contact the Economic andCommercial Offices at the Embassies ofSpain (see list on pages 126 and 127).The opinions expressed by the authors ofthe articles are not necessarily shared bythe Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade(ICEX), which cannot be held responsiblefor any omissions or error in the text.

In the year 1050, the Castilian language, better known to most of us as Spanish,

first appeared in written form. We track down the earliest known texts in the

language that 425 million people speak today, and in the process encounter evidence

of a rich gastronomic tradition stretching back into the past.

Five centuries later, Spanish caravels returned from their voyages of discovery

bearing hitherto unknown species from the New World. Among them were mangoes

and papayas, two exotic fruits that are currently starring in an export success story.

Like all the Mediterranean countries, Spain has produced and exported honey

throughout its history. The diversity of our geography, climate and flora is reflected

in many different types, each a quintessential extract of its area of provenance.

In today's Spain, tradition rubs elbows with the avant-garde—a juxtaposition well

exemplified by the generation of chefs that has earned a place for our cuisine on

the international cutting edge. In this issue, we bring you up to date on

developments in the sector and focus particularly on the role of scientific research

(yes, really!) in contemporary cooking.

Meanwhile, a brief tour down south brings its own surprises: top quality red wines

from Andalusia, anyone?

All of us here at Spain Gourmetour wish you very happy holidays. We find that

plenty of Cava helps!

Cathy Boirac

Editor-in-chief

[email protected]

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la civilización romana se extendió ríoarriba por medio de gabarras de pococalado, atravesando la ciudad deCalahorra, en La Rioja Baja, cuna delorador y retórico romano Quintiliano(hacia 39-98), y llegando finalmenteal puerto de Varea, situado a sólo3 km / 1,8 mi al sur de Logroño, en laconfluencia de los ríos Iregua y Ebro.Además de constituir una encrucijadalingüística en la que se funden lasculturas romana, visigoda, árabe,vasca, navarra y castellana con lasinfluencias septentrionales llegadas através del Camino de Santiago, con losperegrinos europeos desplazados paravisitar la tumba del Santo en Santiagode Compostela (Spain Gourmetour,n.º 53 y 54; edición inglesa), La Riojafue también un crisol culinario en elque la cocina del norte de Europa,basada fundamentalmente en grasasanimales, se enfrentaba y coexistía conla tradición mediterránea basada en elaceite de oliva. Por otro lado, La Riojaha estado siempre bien abastecida decarne de vacuno procedente de losprados situados en sus tierras altas, decarne de ovino procedente de la carameridional de la sierra de la Demanda,de pescado procedente de sus muchosríos y de la costa atlántica, a poco más

de 100 km / 62 mi de distancia, y,por supuesto, del principal productode la cultura cristiana, la carne decerdo, con el jamón y las mil y unavariedades diferentes de embutidos(Spain Gourmetour, n.º 21).Contamos con lugares que ofrecenmuchas oportunidades culinarias queaprovechar, así, en el valle del Ebro,en Logroño, exactamente en Haro(localidad al noroeste de la Rioja), seencuentra el circuito de restaurantesy la ruta de tapas denominado LaHerradura (por la forma quedescribe), en la calle Laurel; también,en la localidad Elciego (municipiode la provincia de Álava) está elbalneario vinícola de las Bodegasdel Marqués de Riscal, diseñado porFrank Gehry, así como las tabernasy los restaurantes de Laguardia,otra localidad del municipio de laprovincia de Álava. Este mismoitinerario continúa hacia el suratravesando el valle del Najerilla y lasierra de la Demanda (en los límitesde las provincias de Burgos, La Riojay Soria), siguiendo después el caminode la cuna de la primera poesía épicamedieval en castellano hasta llegara Castilla, a través de Santo Domingode Silos para así arribar a Burgos

(norte de España) y al lugar denacimiento de Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar,más conocido por el sobrenombre de ElCid (“El Cantar de Mío Cid”, pág. 17).Desde el Monasterio de Suso, la víamás poética para llegar a la localidadmontañosa de Ezcaray, seguramentela ruta que habrían seguido San Milláno Gonzalo de Berceo, la constituye elcamino de cinco horas de marcha dela senda GR-93 que cruza los perdidospueblos de montaña de Pazuengosy Turza. Para los motoristas, existe uncamino de 14 km / 8,6 mi al sur deSanto Domingo de la Calzada que subehasta el río Oja, precisamente el queda nombre a La Rioja, y que en pocotiempo lleva hasta Ezcaray, ciudadsituada al pie del monte más alto de lasierra de la Demanda, el denominadoPico de San Lorenzo, de unos 2.285 m/ 7.500 ft de altura. Esta localidad estállena de majestuosas mansiones,siendo el ejemplo arquitectónico másrelevante el Palacio del Conde deTorremuzquiz y su gigantesca salade armas. Frente a la fortificada iglesiagótica de Santa María la Mayor de lossiglos XII al XVI se encuentra situadoel hotel Echaurren, pertenecientea Marisa Sánchez y su hijo, elinternacionalmente aclamado chef

Francis Paniego (Spain Gourmetour,n.º 54; edición inglesa). Marisa es unamaestra consumada y respetada encocina tradicional riojana, mientras queFrancis es un moderno innovadorformado en las mejores cocinas deEspaña y Francia, chef y fundador deEl Portal (una estrella Michelin), dueñodel restaurante del hotel Echaurren,además de ser asesor y consultor delrestaurante del hotel Marqués de Riscalen la localidad de Elciego. Las patatasa la riojana cocidas con chorizo ypimentón dulce de Marisa, seguidasde una creación de Francis, como sumerluza a la romana confitada a 45grados sobre pimientos asados y sopade arroz, constituyen la mejorcombinación para deleite del paladar.Tras descender por el valle del Oja,a sólo diez minutos hacia el este deNájera, se encuentra Daroca de laRioja, lugar donde está enclavada laventa de Moncalvillo en la que loshermanos Echapresto, Carlos(sumiller) e Ignacio (chef), han hechoque se efectúe un importante desvíogastronómico en este recorridoliterario. En los menús de temporadade esta venta se incluyen verduras enprimavera, ensaladas en verano, cazamenor (perdices, codornices y

El “román paladino” o lengua vernáculamanuscrita en los márgenes de textos,en latín en San Millán de la Cogolla, en elsiglo X, alcanzó su plenitud en el siglo XIIcon El Cantar de Mío Cid, la primera granobra literaria escrita en castellano. En elsiglo XIII, durante el reinado de Fernando III,se consolidó el uso del castellano, y conla publicación en 1492 del Arte de lalengua castellana de Antonio de Nebrijase logró que el castellano se extendierapor todo el mundo en paralelo al granimperio español del siglo XVI. Elingenioso hidalgo Don Quijote de laMancha de Miguel de Cervantes(1547-1616) se convirtió en el primerbest seller mundial a principios del sigloXVII. La colonización española llevó lalengua al continente americano, dondetodavía se habla, así como a varias islasdel Pacífico, entre ellas Filipinas, endonde actualmente su habla no estádemasiado extendida.El castellano es la lengua de millonesde inmigrantes en Estados Unidosprocedentes de América Latina, demanera que hoy en día está consideradala segunda lengua más hablada de ese

país. En el momento de sucreación, en 1945, la Organizaciónde las Naciones Unidas incluyóla lengua castellana como unade sus cinco lenguas oficiales juntocon la china, la inglesa, la francesay la rusa; la lengua árabe se añadióposteriormente en el año 1973.En la lista de galardonados conel Premio Nobel que escribenen castellano se encuentran:José Echegaray (1832-1916),Jacinto Benavente (1866-1954),Gabriela Mistral (1889-1957),Juan Ramón Jiménez (1881-1958),Miguel Ángel Asturias (1899-1974),Pablo Neruda (1904-1973),Vicente Aleixandre (1898-1984),Gabriel García Márquez (1927),Camilo José Cela (1916-2002)y Octavio Paz (1914-1998).Actualmente, la lengua castellanala hablan unos 425 millonesde personas en todo el mundo,y constituye una de las másextendidas del planeta juntocon la china, la inglesa y la hindi.

Monasterio de Yuso

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CONTENTSSPAIN GOURMETOUR

JANUARY-APRIL 2010 No. 78

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climate and agriculture easily reachedup the Ebro into La Rioja, wheregrapevines, olives, almonds,artichokes, asparagus, peppers, peasand chard flourish, Romancivilization cruised up the river onshallow-draft barges past the RiojaBaja city of Calahorra, birthplace ofRoman orator and rhetoricianQuintilian (circa 39-circa 98), as faras the port at Varea just 3 km (1.8mi) below Logroño at the confluenceof the Iregua and Ebro Rivers.As well as a linguistic crossroadswhere Roman, Visigothic, Moorish,Basque, Navarran, and Castiliancultures mingled with northerninfluences arriving along the Caminode Santiago (the European pilgrimageto the tomb of St. James at Santiagode Compostela, Spain GourmetourNos. 53 and 54), La Rioja was aculinary melting pot where northernEuropean cuisine based on animalfats collided and coexisted with theMediterranean olive oil tradition. Inaddition, La Rioja has been wellsupplied with beef from its upland

meadows, sheep from the south sideof the Sierra de la Demandamountains, fish from its many riversand from the Atlantic coast barelyover a 100 km (62 mi) away, and, ofcourse, the great Christian staple, thepig, provider of ham and a thousandand one varieties of sausage (SpainGourmetour No. 77).The Ebro valley floor, includingLogroño’s Calle del Laurel (LaurelStreet); Haro’s horseshoe-shapedrestaurant and tapas circuit, LaHerradura; Elciego’s Frank Gehry-designed Marqués de Riscal wine spa;and Laguardia’s taverns andrestaurants, offers many diningopportunities to explore, but thisitinerary heads south up the Najerillavalley and over the Sierra de laDemanda, following the beginningsof Spain’s first medieval epic poetryinto Castile, through Santo Domingode Silos to Burgos and the birthplaceof Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, betterknown as El Cid (El Cantar de MioCid, page 17).From the Suso Monastery, the most

poetic way to the mountain town ofEzcaray, the way San Millán orGonzalo de Berceo would have gone,is the five-hour walk along the GR-93trail through the lost mountainvillages of Pazuengos and Turza. Formotorists, a 14-km (8.7-mi) drivesouth from Santo Domingo de laCalzada up the Río Oja (for which LaRioja is named) quickly reachesEzcaray, tucked under the Sierra de laDemanda’s highest peak, the 2,284-m(7,494-ft) Pico de San Lorenzo. Thetown is filled with stately mansions,with the Conde de TorremúzquizPalace and its mammoth coat of armsbeing the architectural highlight.Facing the fortified 12th- to 16th-century Gothic Santa María la Mayorchurch is Hotel Echaurren, home ofMarisa Sánchez and her son,internationally-acclaimed chefFrancis Paniego (Spain GourmetourNo. 54). Marisa is a widely-respectedmaster of traditional Riojan cuisine,while Francis is a contemporaryinnovator trained in the best kitchensof Spain and France, and chef and

founder of El Portal (one Michelinstar), his own restaurant in HotelEchaurren, as well as consultingadvisor of the Hotel Marqués deRiscal restaurant in Elciego. Patatas ala riojana (potatoes stewed in chorizoand paprika) by Marisa, followed by aFrancis creation such as his Merluza ala romana confitada a 45 grados sobrepimientos asados y sopa de arroz (Hakein batter cooked at 45 degrees overroast peppers and rice soup) combinethe best of both worlds.After descending the valley of theOja, just 10 minutes east of Nájera,Daroca de Rioja is the home of LaVenta de Moncalvillo, where brothersEchapresto, Carlos (sommelier) andIgnacio (chef) have put together animportant gastronomical detour alongthis literary itinerary. The seasonalmenu here runs from springvegetables to summer salads to smallgame (partridge, quail, woodcock)and wild mushrooms such aschanterelles, morels and porcini infall to big game (wild boar andvenison) and stews in winter. The

The roman paladino, or vernacular usage,scribbled into the margins of a Latin textin San Millán de la Cogolla in the 10th

century blossomed into the 12th-centuryEl Cantar de Mio Cid, the earliest majorwork written in Castilian Spanish. The13th-century reign of King Fernando IIIconsolidated the use of Spanish, whilethe 1492 publication of Antonio deNebrija's Arte de la lengua castellanatook the Spanish language around theworld with Spain's sprawling 16th centuryempire. El ingenioso hidalgo Don Quijotede la Mancha, by Miguel de Cervantes(1547-1616), became the first worldwidebestseller in the early 17th century.Spanish colonization brought thelanguage to the Americas, where it isspoken today, as well as to several islandgroups in the Pacific, including thePhilippines, where it is no longer spokenby any large number of people. Spanishis spoken by Latin American immigrantsin the United States and is nowconsidered the country's second

language. The United Nationsdesignated Spanish as one of itsfive official languages upon its1945 founding, along withChinese, English, French andRussian. Arabic was added in1973. The list of Nobel laureateswho wrote in Spanish includesJosé Echegaray (1832-1916),Jacinto Benavente (1866-1954),Gabriela Mistral (1889-1957), JuanRamón Jiménez (1881-1958),Miguel Angel Asturias (1899-1974), Pablo Neruda (1904-1973),Vicente Aleixandre (1898-1984),Gabriel García Márquez (1927),Camilo José Cela (1916-2002) andOctavio Paz (1914-1998). Todaythe Spanish language spoken by425 million people around theglobe is one of the world's mostspoken languages, along withChinese, English and Hindi.

F R O M E P I C P O E T R YT O T H E N O B E L

Yuso Monastery

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Editorial ...................................1

ColorsRoute of the Spanish Language.Where Gastronomy andLanguage Come Together ........10

WinesAndalusia Steps Out in Red. TheQuest for Andalusian Reds ......24A Taste of Cava’s CulinaryCombinations. SparklingInspiration ..............................38

Culinary FareWhere Science Meets Cuisine..50

Food BasicsMango and Papaya. Wakingup to Tropical Fruit .................64Honey. Sweet by Nature ..........76

TrainingCompetitive Cooking.Quite a Plateful .......................90

RecipesPedro Rodríguez Dios..............94Mango and Papaya ..................96Honey ...................................102

Business WatchOn the Move .........................106Conservas Rosara.Natural Selection ..................109

ColophonHave a Spanish Break! PatriciaLangton from London ...........114

Regular FeaturesLasting Impressions...............116Spain Overseas......................126Exporters ..............................128Ad Index ...............................131Credits ..................................132

JANUARY-APRIL 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 3

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A Sure ValueRioja From The Heart

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Where Gastronomy andOf Spain’s various rutas–wines, cheese, ham,olives–the Spanish language route may seem a priorito offer mainly food for thought. But look again:from the earliest written Spanish in La Rioja, to thebirthplace of El Cid in Burgos, and on to Cervantescountry in Valladolid and Alcalá de Henares,gastronomy handily keeps pace with literature.

LANGUAGECome Together



Where Gastronomy andOf Spain’s various rutas–wines, cheese, ham,olives–the Spanish language route may seem a priorito offer mainly food for thought. But look again:from the earliest written Spanish in La Rioja, to thebirthplace of El Cid in Burgos, and on to Cervantescountry in Valladolid and Alcalá de Henares,gastronomy handily keeps pace with literature.

LANGUAGECome Together



12 JANUARY-APRIL 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

The complete Ruta de la LenguaCastellana (Route of the SpanishLanguage, as established byTurespaña, a state-ownedorganization responsible for thepromotion of foreign tourism inSpain) begins where Spanish began atSan Millán de la Cogolla in La Rioja,continues through early Castilian epicpoetry and El Cantar de Mío Cid inBurgos, and proceeds throughCervantes country in Valladolid.Mystic poets Santa Teresa de Ávilaand San Juan de la Cruz are identifiedwith the city of Ávila (SpainGourmetour No. 76). Salamanca wasthe setting for La Celestina (byFernando de Rojas, 1470-1541) andthe picaresque Lazarillo de Tormes (ananonymous work dating from 1554),two of the most important works inearly Spanish literature, while Alcaláde Henares (Spain Gourmetour No.75) was the birthplace of Miguel deCervantes and the original home ofthe University of Madrid. The presentarticle covers only the first two stopson this literary itinerary: San Millánde la Cogolla, birthplace of theSpanish language, and Burgos, homeof El Cid.It was in La Rioja at the Monastery ofSuso above the small town of SanMillán de la Cogolla where, in 1910, a10th-century Latin manuscript on St.Augustine was discovered containingthe first recorded writings in the Latinvernacular known as román paladino,or “plain Romance language”. Thenotes were written around the year1050 in the margin of the text by amonk (or various monks) to explaindifficult Latin words in the language

spoken in their villages. Notes appearin both Spanish and Euskara (Basque),not surprisingly, as many villages inthe western Rioja highlands wereEuskaldun, or Basque-speaking. Thesenotes became known as the GlosasEmilianenses (notes from themonastery of San Millán). Later, in1997, two professors, Claudio andJavier García Turza, found anencyclopedia with more annotationsdating from the year 964, pre-datingthe Glosas Emilianenses by nearly acentury.The Monasteries of Suso (which meansabove, from the Latin Sursum) andYuso (below) developed from the cavehermitage of a charismatic reclusenamed Millán (or Emiliano) who wasborn in Berceo in the year 473. By thetime of his death in 574 at the age of101, San Millán had developed a smallfollowing that carried on at the SusoMonastery. Over the years thecommunity grew and Millán’s primitivealtar was eventually joined byVisigothic, Mozarabic, and—after the

Moors torched it in the year 1002—Romanesque additions. The YusoMonastery was built in the 11th centuryand reconstructed in the 16th, 17th and18th centuries with Renaissance andBaroque elements. Between the two,the monasteries are a completeanthology of early Spanisharchitecture.The literary importance of themonasteries at San Millán de laCogolla resides not only in the GlosasEmilianenses but also in the numberand quality of the manuscripts in thelibraries and in the work of the firstpoet in the Spanish language,Gonzalo de Berceo (1195-1260), whowrote and recited his poems in theMonastery of Suso. Berceo’s 25 poemsunder the title Milagros de NuestraSeñora (Miracles of Our Lady) areconsidered his best work, especiallythe delicate descriptions oflandscapes considered among thefinest in Spanish medieval poetry.Berceo’s verses, often presented introubadour form with an opening callto attention (“si vos meescuchássedes”—if you would listen tome) and ending with suggestedpayment (“un vaso de bon vino”—aglass of good wine) were original intheir popular language, humorous,and realistic, with exact descriptionsof the places, such San Millán andSilos, where his stories take place.

Culinary crossroadsIt is probably no coincidence thatboth literary and wine culturesflourished in the same place. For thesame reasons that the Mediterranean

TEXTGEORGE SEMLER/©ICEX

PHOTOSLUIS CARRÉ/©ICEX

Yuso

and

Suso

Mon

aste

ries




The complete Ruta de la LenguaCastellana (Route of the SpanishLanguage, as established byTurespaña, a state-ownedorganization responsible for thepromotion of foreign tourism inSpain) begins where Spanish began atSan Millán de la Cogolla in La Rioja,continues through early Castilian epicpoetry and El Cantar de Mío Cid inBurgos, and proceeds throughCervantes country in Valladolid.Mystic poets Santa Teresa de Ávilaand San Juan de la Cruz are identifiedwith the city of Ávila (SpainGourmetour No. 76). Salamanca wasthe setting for La Celestina (byFernando de Rojas, 1470-1541) andthe picaresque Lazarillo de Tormes (ananonymous work dating from 1554),two of the most important works inearly Spanish literature, while Alcaláde Henares (Spain Gourmetour No.75) was the birthplace of Miguel deCervantes and the original home ofthe University of Madrid. The presentarticle covers only the first two stopson this literary itinerary: San Millánde la Cogolla, birthplace of theSpanish language, and Burgos, homeof El Cid.It was in La Rioja at the Monastery ofSuso above the small town of SanMillán de la Cogolla where, in 1910, a10th-century Latin manuscript on St.Augustine was discovered containingthe first recorded writings in the Latinvernacular known as román paladino,or “plain Romance language”. Thenotes were written around the year1050 in the margin of the text by amonk (or various monks) to explaindifficult Latin words in the language

spoken in their villages. Notes appearin both Spanish and Euskara (Basque),not surprisingly, as many villages inthe western Rioja highlands wereEuskaldun, or Basque-speaking. Thesenotes became known as the GlosasEmilianenses (notes from themonastery of San Millán). Later, in1997, two professors, Claudio andJavier García Turza, found anencyclopedia with more annotationsdating from the year 964, pre-datingthe Glosas Emilianenses by nearly acentury.The Monasteries of Suso (which meansabove, from the Latin Sursum) andYuso (below) developed from the cavehermitage of a charismatic reclusenamed Millán (or Emiliano) who wasborn in Berceo in the year 473. By thetime of his death in 574 at the age of101, San Millán had developed a smallfollowing that carried on at the SusoMonastery. Over the years thecommunity grew and Millán’s primitivealtar was eventually joined byVisigothic, Mozarabic, and—after the

Moors torched it in the year 1002—Romanesque additions. The YusoMonastery was built in the 11th centuryand reconstructed in the 16th, 17th and18th centuries with Renaissance andBaroque elements. Between the two,the monasteries are a completeanthology of early Spanisharchitecture.The literary importance of themonasteries at San Millán de laCogolla resides not only in the GlosasEmilianenses but also in the numberand quality of the manuscripts in thelibraries and in the work of the firstpoet in the Spanish language,Gonzalo de Berceo (1195-1260), whowrote and recited his poems in theMonastery of Suso. Berceo’s 25 poemsunder the title Milagros de NuestraSeñora (Miracles of Our Lady) areconsidered his best work, especiallythe delicate descriptions oflandscapes considered among thefinest in Spanish medieval poetry.Berceo’s verses, often presented introubadour form with an opening callto attention (“si vos meescuchássedes”—if you would listen tome) and ending with suggestedpayment (“un vaso de bon vino”—aglass of good wine) were original intheir popular language, humorous,and realistic, with exact descriptionsof the places, such San Millán andSilos, where his stories take place.

Culinary crossroadsIt is probably no coincidence thatboth literary and wine culturesflourished in the same place. For thesame reasons that the Mediterranean

TEXTGEORGE SEMLER/©ICEX

PHOTOSLUIS CARRÉ/©ICEX

Yuso

and

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Monasterio de Yuso











Yuso Monastery








Monasterio de Yuso











Yuso Monastery



menu features both playfulcontemporary creations such aspencas (chard stalks) stuffed withspinach, shards of Ibérico ham, andcream of asparagus, and moreclassical fare such as Lomo de corderoconfitado con hongos, miel y romero(Confit of lamb with wildmushrooms, honey and rosemary).

No new seedsStarting up the LR-113 road up theNajerilla valley, the town of Nájerasits astride the limestone Najerillariver. The town, one-time seat of theKindgom of Navarre and home to theSanta María la Real Monastery, Rioja’sbest Gothic cloister, is a pilgrim stopon the Camino de Santiago. NearbyTricio is now a suburb of Nájera, butthe Roman Tritium Magallum wasonce the major town in the area andincluded Nájera as one itsneighborhoods. The 5th-century SantaMaría de los Arcos Basilica is theoldest religious monument in LaRioja and was constructed withrecycled Corinthian columns andother materials from the Roman cityof Tritium Magallum. Known ascaracoleros for their snails and snailrecipes, Tricio’s late-August SanBartolomé festival includes a snailrace and snail recipe competitions. Tofind Jesús Martínez Nalde and hisConservas Marnal, standarddirections are to drive into Tricio andturn 180 degrees at “the tree”, which,as it turns out, is a giant century-plusold Alamo tree some 4.5 m (15 ft)

around at the base standing in frontof Bar La Fuente. Jesús, known asChuchi, is the driving force behindthe pimiento najerano (Nájera pepper),a sweet and meaty red and sometimesentreverado (red and green) pepperofficially registered under the PGIPimiento Riojano (Spain GourmetourNo. 76). The Asociación Profesionalde Productores de Pimiento Najeranoy de Santo Domingo, of whichChuchi is president, includes a totalof seven cultivators with some 20 ha

(49 acres) of plantations and 566,889kg (1,249,798 lb) of annualproduction. The pimiento najerano islarge (often up to 7.8 in / 20 cm inlength and circumference), with apulpy skin, high levels of vitamin C,and low acidity, making it ideal foruse in strips in salads or toaccompany meat or poultry. Chuchi,38, plants 200,000 seeds by handevery May, using the same seeds thathis grandmother passed along wellbefore he started working in the

business with his father 16 years ago.Roasting each pepper in a wood ovenusing increasingly hard-to-find beechwood, Conservas Marnal puts up anannual 50,000 kg (110,231 lb) ofpeppers and sells another 50,000 kgfresh. “Aquí no entra semilla nueva”(no new seeds get in here) affirms theemphatic and dynamic Chuchi, at thesame time vowing never to expandhis operation.Another 10 km (6.2 mi) up theNajerilla, Baños de Río Tobía is themain curing and processing center forRioja’s ham, chorizo and charcuterie.Carmelo and Fermín Loza are two of11 brothers and cousins working inthe family meat-curing business,Embutidos Loza, founded in 1920 bytheir grandfather, Amando LozaAlonso. Baños, at 600 m (1,968 ft)above sea level, provided acombination of dry mountain air andcool temperatures with goodtransport accessibility to become aleader in the curing and processing ofham, chorizo, pork loin and sausagesfrom producers all over Spain andsouthern France. Carmelo explainsthe process as he shows us throughsalting and drying rooms over thefive-floor building, ham hanging inthe top floors in screened-in open-airdrying rooms. “With moderntechnology,” Carmelo explains, “youcould do this anywhere, but thebouquet, the aroma, and the taste ofthe product are quite different whenthey are cured in real mountain air.”

ROUTE OF THE SPANISH LANGUAGE


Thought to have been writtenaround the year 1140, a mere 40years after the death of itsprotagonist, Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar(also known as El Cid), El Cantar deMio Cid is the first existing exampleof Spanish medieval epic literature.Because of the chronologicalproximity of the Cantar (song) to theevents it describes, it is consideredto be historically accurate. TheCantar is composed of threesections: El Cantar del Destierro,which describes Rodrigo's exile byKing Alfonso VI after being unjustlyaccused of stealing tribute; ElCantar de las Bodas de las hijas delCid, which describes the conquestof Valencia from the Moors; and ElCantar de la Afrenta de Corpes, inwhich El Cid avenges themistreatment of his daughters and

E L C A N T A R D E M I O C I D


returns triumphant to royal favor. Therobust realism of the Cantar is consideredits main literary strength. Heroic deeds aredescribed without sacrificing credibility andthe characterization of El Cid is human andcomplex. Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar isportrayed as a sympathetic figure whosheds tears when forced to abandon hiswife and children, smiles victoriously intriumph, respects his superiors, minds hismanners, and battles courageously. In all,the epic figure embodies the finest qualitiesof the Germanic Castilian hero, acceptinginjustice while remaining loyal to his king,fighting the infidel, and seeking personaland family honor, a balanced blend ofpractical realism and noble idealism thatwill reappear again and again throughoutSpanish literature. You can consult theoriginal text at the Instituto Cervantes’sdigital library (www.cervantes.es).

Burgos Cathedral

AROUND&ABOUT



menu features both playfulcontemporary creations such aspencas (chard stalks) stuffed withspinach, shards of Ibérico ham, andcream of asparagus, and moreclassical fare such as Lomo de corderoconfitado con hongos, miel y romero(Confit of lamb with wildmushrooms, honey and rosemary).

No new seedsStarting up the LR-113 road up theNajerilla valley, the town of Nájerasits astride the limestone Najerillariver. The town, one-time seat of theKindgom of Navarre and home to theSanta María la Real Monastery, Rioja’sbest Gothic cloister, is a pilgrim stopon the Camino de Santiago. NearbyTricio is now a suburb of Nájera, butthe Roman Tritium Magallum wasonce the major town in the area andincluded Nájera as one itsneighborhoods. The 5th-century SantaMaría de los Arcos Basilica is theoldest religious monument in LaRioja and was constructed withrecycled Corinthian columns andother materials from the Roman cityof Tritium Magallum. Known ascaracoleros for their snails and snailrecipes, Tricio’s late-August SanBartolomé festival includes a snailrace and snail recipe competitions. Tofind Jesús Martínez Nalde and hisConservas Marnal, standarddirections are to drive into Tricio andturn 180 degrees at “the tree”, which,as it turns out, is a giant century-plusold Alamo tree some 4.5 m (15 ft)

around at the base standing in frontof Bar La Fuente. Jesús, known asChuchi, is the driving force behindthe pimiento najerano (Nájera pepper),a sweet and meaty red and sometimesentreverado (red and green) pepperofficially registered under the PGIPimiento Riojano (Spain GourmetourNo. 76). The Asociación Profesionalde Productores de Pimiento Najeranoy de Santo Domingo, of whichChuchi is president, includes a totalof seven cultivators with some 20 ha

(49 acres) of plantations and 566,889kg (1,249,798 lb) of annualproduction. The pimiento najerano islarge (often up to 7.8 in / 20 cm inlength and circumference), with apulpy skin, high levels of vitamin C,and low acidity, making it ideal foruse in strips in salads or toaccompany meat or poultry. Chuchi,38, plants 200,000 seeds by handevery May, using the same seeds thathis grandmother passed along wellbefore he started working in the

business with his father 16 years ago.Roasting each pepper in a wood ovenusing increasingly hard-to-find beechwood, Conservas Marnal puts up anannual 50,000 kg (110,231 lb) ofpeppers and sells another 50,000 kgfresh. “Aquí no entra semilla nueva”(no new seeds get in here) affirms theemphatic and dynamic Chuchi, at thesame time vowing never to expandhis operation.Another 10 km (6.2 mi) up theNajerilla, Baños de Río Tobía is themain curing and processing center forRioja’s ham, chorizo and charcuterie.Carmelo and Fermín Loza are two of11 brothers and cousins working inthe family meat-curing business,Embutidos Loza, founded in 1920 bytheir grandfather, Amando LozaAlonso. Baños, at 600 m (1,968 ft)above sea level, provided acombination of dry mountain air andcool temperatures with goodtransport accessibility to become aleader in the curing and processing ofham, chorizo, pork loin and sausagesfrom producers all over Spain andsouthern France. Carmelo explainsthe process as he shows us throughsalting and drying rooms over thefive-floor building, ham hanging inthe top floors in screened-in open-airdrying rooms. “With moderntechnology,” Carmelo explains, “youcould do this anywhere, but thebouquet, the aroma, and the taste ofthe product are quite different whenthey are cured in real mountain air.”

ROUTE OF THE SPANISH LANGUAGE


Thought to have been writtenaround the year 1140, a mere 40years after the death of itsprotagonist, Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar(also known as El Cid), El Cantar deMio Cid is the first existing exampleof Spanish medieval epic literature.Because of the chronologicalproximity of the Cantar (song) to theevents it describes, it is consideredto be historically accurate. TheCantar is composed of threesections: El Cantar del Destierro,which describes Rodrigo's exile byKing Alfonso VI after being unjustlyaccused of stealing tribute; ElCantar de las Bodas de las hijas delCid, which describes the conquestof Valencia from the Moors; and ElCantar de la Afrenta de Corpes, inwhich El Cid avenges themistreatment of his daughters and

E L C A N T A R D E M I O C I D


returns triumphant to royal favor. Therobust realism of the Cantar is consideredits main literary strength. Heroic deeds aredescribed without sacrificing credibility andthe characterization of El Cid is human andcomplex. Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar isportrayed as a sympathetic figure whosheds tears when forced to abandon hiswife and children, smiles victoriously intriumph, respects his superiors, minds hismanners, and battles courageously. In all,the epic figure embodies the finest qualitiesof the Germanic Castilian hero, acceptinginjustice while remaining loyal to his king,fighting the infidel, and seeking personaland family honor, a balanced blend ofpractical realism and noble idealism thatwill reappear again and again throughoutSpanish literature. You can consult theoriginal text at the Instituto Cervantes’sdigital library (www.cervantes.es).

Burgos Cathedral

AROUND&ABOUT


03 RUTA LENGUA AF.qxd 24/11/09 20:23 Página 1804 ANDALUCIA AF.qxd 18/11/09 20:21 Página 30

reasonably sustainable business, allthe better.” Angiano’s late-October tomid-November Caparrón Festival,the exact dates of which depend onthe climate and the progress of theharvest, is a perfect chance to trydifferent caparrón recipes aroundtown.Another dozen miles of twistingmountain road rises up past thePuente de Hiedra (Ivy Bridge) and theroad up to the Valvanera Monastery,home to La Virgen de Valvanera,patron saint of La Rioja.Ten minutes farther up is the town ofViniegra de Abajo, where La Venta deGoyo, a hunting and fishing enclave,is one of Rioja’s top highland dining

destinations. Originally a stagecoachrelay station and inn on the post roadfrom Pamplona to Aranda de Dueroto Madrid, Venta de Goyo is knownfor chef Juan Carlos Esteban’sseasonal game dishes: partridge andwoodcock roasted with as littleinterference with their natural taste aspossible, venison with apple andchestnut compotes, and wild boarstewed with wild mushrooms. It’s alsoone of the best places for caparronesde Anguiano, stewed to perfection inpure spring water.Above Viniegra de Abajo on the LR-113 road is the new town of Mansillade la Sierra, rebuilt after 1959 whenthe waters of the Mansilla reservoir

producing some 8,000 kg (1,763 lb)on a good year. Javier’s mother,Eusebia Bezares, 67, who runs CasaRural Llaría, soaks her caparronesthe night before, cooks them on lowheat for 5 or 6 hours, adds chorizoand fatback, and, just at the end,cooks up oil, garlic and peppers forthe finishing touch. “The quality ofthe water is also key,” adds Javier, ashe produces two more small bagscontaining miniature garbanzo beansand tiny white beans called alubiasarroceras, for which he also harborsambitions. “Young people have toleave Anguiano to find a way tomake a living, so if we can find away to make our legumes into a

Poetic kidneybeansContinuing up into the Sierra de laDemanda, 7 km (4.3) south of Bañosis the village of Anguiano, famed forits three bridges, its summer festivalstarring dancers on beech woodstilts plunging down the steep slopefrom the San Andrés church, and,above all, for its caparrones, tiny redkidney beans that are like no other.Grown in rocky soil at altitude, likethe stressed grapes used in the so-called high expression wines, thesepea-sized maroon-colored beanshave exceptional taste, gossamerskins that melt on the palate, and a

supremely delicate texture. Stewedwith the usual chorizo and fatback,caparrones have long been a belovedRiojan favorite. Javier Llaría, 35, isthe Chairman of a not-yet-formalized Caparrón Association, agroup of younger caparrónenthusiasts working to createstructures to protect their productfrom other kidney bean producerswho falsely pass off any small redlegume as a caparrón de Anguiano.“Growing caparrones on these steephillsides has traditionally been moreof a hobby than an industry,”explains Javier, “and we are trying toestablish methods and technologiesto help us produce more and better

caparrones. Our parents andgrandparents tease us that we don’twant to work, but we do; we justdon’t want to work the way they did.Sorting these beans one by one is anendless process, completelyunsustainable except for private use.We need the kind of machinery theyuse for, say, selecting coffee beans.”Caparrones de Anguiano are grownexclusively on 3-m (10-ft) highvertical bean trellises or stakes,planted by hand, led up the poles,stacked in haystack-like pyramids todry, and then spread out on canvasesto open by driving tractors over thepods. Then comes the cleaning andselection process, ultimately


Royal Monastery of Las Huelgas



ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINES

the profession of winemaker. JoséAntonio Itarte, from the Basquecountry and formerly in the steelindustry, now owns a surprising estatecalled Cortijo Los Aguilares: 800 ha(1,976 acres) of land with variouscrops, but only 18 under vine—Tempranillo, Merlot, CabernetSauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot andPinot Noir. The 2008 vintage of thelatter had the audacity to win theprestigious Mondial du Pinot Noir inSierre (Switzerland), eclipsing some ofthe stars in this variety’s universe. Thework being done by Bibi García, anexcellent oenologist trained in Madrid,Chile, La Rioja and Priorat, is alsobeginning to bear fruit.The local wine scene also receivesvisits (and inspiration) from “flyingoenologists”, such as Ignacio de Migueland Josep Lluís Pérez. The formerprovides consulting services for thePasos Largos wine made by JoséManuel López, owner of one ofAndalusia’s best restaurants,Tragabuches (in Ronda), named after anotorious inhabitant of Ronda, anearly 19th-century bullfighter, banditand smuggler. Josep Lluís is workingon the ambitious La Melonera projectwith the invaluable aid of youngoenologist Ana de Castro, although thewine has not yet appeared on themarket. The peacefulness of this magicsetting attracts people who are keen toget away from it all. Teo Conrad fromSwitzerland fell in love with Ronda.When, while doing business in China,he mentioned his viticultural plans, hisChinese hosts were horrified to learnthat he was not applying the ancientoriental philosophy of Feng Shui in his

future winery. They convinced him ofits usefulness and he now applies itwherever he lives. A fantastic convent,privatized in the mid-19th century,serves as a miraculous retreat for thealmost 200 barrels produced at theDescalzos Viejos winery.The last vinestocks to survive fromtimes of former glory finallydisappeared from a place calledChinchilla. Almost 50 years later, thevigorous vines of the Doña Felisawinery, with pine and kermes oaksurroundings, once again dress thisrugged terrain in green. Their wines,named Chinchilla after theirbirthplace, are flavorsome andaromatic. Behind the hill that hides thehalf-buried Roman town of Acinipo isthe El Chantre winery, owned byRamos Paúl, with a spectacular agingchamber that tunnels into themountain and a large vineyard at itsfeet. Together, all these projects andrealities raise the Serranía de Rondasub-zone to the upper ranks of the

these grapes were considered so goodthat the raisins that were left behindon the drying racks were used to makethe famous Málaga sweet wines. Today,the great Muscatels are made onlyfrom the best grapes, and are muchloved in Spain and elsewhere,especially in the US. But red wine, too,has reached this “eastern part” of theprovince, which is the meaning of theArabic word Axarquía. In Sayalonga, anarrow, whitewashed village, ClaraVerheij and André Both (from Utrechtin Holland), wine lovers turnedprofessional, produce one of Spain’sbest Muscatel wines, Bentomiz, fromthe rare Romé Tinta variety that theyhave rescued from oblivion. This grapeis reminiscent of Pinot Noir, especiallyin its elegance. But it is difficult to getaway from sweet wine in Andalusia.This is perhaps why this Andalusian-Dutch couple has interpreted the firstnatural sweet Merlot wine. The resultis pure delight. Close by (if such aterm can be used for such devilishly

varied Andalusian panorama. The factthat so many professionals and wine-lovers choose Ronda for theirviticultural initiatives should come asno surprise. It is an ideal growingenvironment for grapevines. Thealtitude is about 800 m (2,625 ft),in some cases as high as 1,000 m(3,280 ft), an essential condition forred vines growing in such a hot, sun-soaked spot. The soils are admirablyvaried and rainfall is about 900 l(35.4 in) a year. The differencebetween night and day temperatures inthe run-up to harvest allows the grapesto ripen gradually, achieving anexcellent balance between acidity andpolyphenol content.News is still coming out of Málaga onthe subject of red wine. Axarquía, afascinating district perfumed by athousand and one wild Mediterraneanaromas, with steep slopes of slate andimmaculate white villages creeping upthem, is where the best Muscatel winesin the world come from. Traditionally,

Bibi García, Cortijo de los Aguijares, Málaga, Ronda.

04 ANDALUCIA IN_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/11/09 8:20 Página 30 (INGLES plancha)


reasonably sustainable business, allthe better.” Angiano’s late-October tomid-November Caparrón Festival,the exact dates of which depend onthe climate and the progress of theharvest, is a perfect chance to trydifferent caparrón recipes aroundtown.Another dozen miles of twistingmountain road rises up past thePuente de Hiedra (Ivy Bridge) and theroad up to the Valvanera Monastery,home to La Virgen de Valvanera,patron saint of La Rioja.Ten minutes farther up is the town ofViniegra de Abajo, where La Venta deGoyo, a hunting and fishing enclave,is one of Rioja’s top highland dining

destinations. Originally a stagecoachrelay station and inn on the post roadfrom Pamplona to Aranda de Dueroto Madrid, Venta de Goyo is knownfor chef Juan Carlos Esteban’sseasonal game dishes: partridge andwoodcock roasted with as littleinterference with their natural taste aspossible, venison with apple andchestnut compotes, and wild boarstewed with wild mushrooms. It’s alsoone of the best places for caparronesde Anguiano, stewed to perfection inpure spring water.Above Viniegra de Abajo on the LR-113 road is the new town of Mansillade la Sierra, rebuilt after 1959 whenthe waters of the Mansilla reservoir

producing some 8,000 kg (1,763 lb)on a good year. Javier’s mother,Eusebia Bezares, 67, who runs CasaRural Llaría, soaks her caparronesthe night before, cooks them on lowheat for 5 or 6 hours, adds chorizoand fatback, and, just at the end,cooks up oil, garlic and peppers forthe finishing touch. “The quality ofthe water is also key,” adds Javier, ashe produces two more small bagscontaining miniature garbanzo beansand tiny white beans called alubiasarroceras, for which he also harborsambitions. “Young people have toleave Anguiano to find a way tomake a living, so if we can find away to make our legumes into a

Poetic kidneybeansContinuing up into the Sierra de laDemanda, 7 km (4.3) south of Bañosis the village of Anguiano, famed forits three bridges, its summer festivalstarring dancers on beech woodstilts plunging down the steep slopefrom the San Andrés church, and,above all, for its caparrones, tiny redkidney beans that are like no other.Grown in rocky soil at altitude, likethe stressed grapes used in the so-called high expression wines, thesepea-sized maroon-colored beanshave exceptional taste, gossamerskins that melt on the palate, and a

supremely delicate texture. Stewedwith the usual chorizo and fatback,caparrones have long been a belovedRiojan favorite. Javier Llaría, 35, isthe Chairman of a not-yet-formalized Caparrón Association, agroup of younger caparrónenthusiasts working to createstructures to protect their productfrom other kidney bean producerswho falsely pass off any small redlegume as a caparrón de Anguiano.“Growing caparrones on these steephillsides has traditionally been moreof a hobby than an industry,”explains Javier, “and we are trying toestablish methods and technologiesto help us produce more and better

caparrones. Our parents andgrandparents tease us that we don’twant to work, but we do; we justdon’t want to work the way they did.Sorting these beans one by one is anendless process, completelyunsustainable except for private use.We need the kind of machinery theyuse for, say, selecting coffee beans.”Caparrones de Anguiano are grownexclusively on 3-m (10-ft) highvertical bean trellises or stakes,planted by hand, led up the poles,stacked in haystack-like pyramids todry, and then spread out on canvasesto open by driving tractors over thepods. Then comes the cleaning andselection process, ultimately


Royal Monastery of Las Huelgas


04 ANDALUCIA AF.qxd 18/11/09 20:21 Página 28

Castilla la épicaSalas de los Infantes es un lugarfamoso por el Poema de los Infantes deLara, anterior a la Canción de Rolando yprecursor de El Cantar de Mío Cid (“ElCantar de Mío Cid”, pág. 17), el cualconstituye la obra épica medieval encastellano más antigua registrada(1140). Tal como se pone de relieveen los estudios del ilustre historiadorliterario español Ramón MenéndezPidal (1869-1968), el poema se basaen los códigos germánicos de venganzaprivada heredados de los visigodos(a diferencia del régimen romanode derecho procesal), de modo queCastilla, el único reino cristiano dela Península Ibérica en el siglo XI,simplemente perpetuaba en lenguaromance la tradición heroica nórdica.En el Poema de los Infantes de Lara secuenta una historia espeluznante desangre y venganza: con el propósito devengar la afrenta sufrida por su esposaDoña Lambra, Ruy Velázquez engaña asus sobrinos, los siete Infantes de Lara,conduciéndolos a una emboscadatendida por los moros en la que sonasesinados y decapitados. Después,las cabezas son enviadas como trofeosa Córdoba donde su padre, GonzaloGustioz, tras haber sido vendido comoesclavo por el propio Ruy Velázquez,es prisionero de Almanzor, el califaárabe. Almanzor muestra las cabezasal afligido padre, que en ese momentojura vengarse. Al final, el hijo bastardode Gustioz, llamado Mudarra, fruto

de sus relaciones con una esclava moraregalada por Almanzor, venga a sushermanastros matando a Ruy Velázquezy quemando viva a Doña Lambra.En la actualidad, Salas de los Infanteses un excelente lugar para detenerse ydegustar el lechazo o la sopa castellanaen el mesón Ricardo y después dar unpaseo por la localidad. La Oficina deTurismo, situada en el Museo de losDinosaurios enclavado en la PlazaMayor, ofrece guías de audio en lasque se detallan los lugares másinteresantes de la ciudad y las horas devisita de la iglesia de Santa María, delsiglo XV, donde se dice que se guardanlos restos de las cabezas de los Infantesde Lara en un sarcófago situado a laizquierda del altar principal. Lasantiguas casas y sus chimeneas cónicasde ladrillo curiosamente retorcidas,muchas de ellas abandonadas,constituyen lo más interesante dever de la localidad, mientras que elestablecimiento Jamones El Pelayo esel lugar ideal para adquirir productoslocales como cabrito seco y ahumado,lengua de vaca y quesos de oveja.Santo Domingo de Silos, localidadsituada a veinte minutos hacia el oeste,es otra de las paradas clave de la Rutade la Lengua Castellana. Al igual queel Monasterio de Suso, Silos poseía unagran biblioteca y un taller de copiadoo scriptorium, de forma que lasdenominadas Glosas de Silos, 513anotaciones en el margen de un textolatino, junto con las Glosas Emilianenses,constituyen uno de los primeros

ejemplos de escritos en castellanovernáculo. La Vida de Santo Domingo,de Gonzalo de Berceo, es una de susobras más importantes, y el Cid pasósu primera noche en Silos tras serdesterrado de Castilla por el ReyAlfonso VI a finales del año 1080o principios de 1081. Muchasreferencias literarias modernas sehan inspirado en el altísimo cipréssito en el claustro del monasterio,inmortalizado en un soneto del poetaespañol Gerardo Diego (1896-1987)escrito en 1924, así como en los versosde Miguel de Unamuno (1864-1936),de Rafael Alberti (1902-1999) yde Manuel Machado (1874-1947),entre otros poetas.En lo que atañe a la gastronomía, elrestaurante Tres Coronas de Silos sirveencomiables platos locales, mientrasque en la tienda de antigüedades ycomestibles, situada justo al lado, sevenden morcillas de Burgos, quesoscurados de oveja de Vadorrey ymacarrones Rocas de Silos hechos deavellanas, claras de huevo, chocolatey vainilla. Los monjes benedictinosentonan cantos gregorianos duranteel oficio de vísperas de las siete de lamañana, lo cual nos permite llegar aBurgos por la Ruta del Cid, pasandopor Covarrubias y San Pedro deCardeña a través de los anchos camposy llanuras de Castilla, localidades porlas que cabalgó el Cid en su marchahacia el exilio. Covarrubias nos ofreceuna excelente oportunidad paradegustar los platos del restaurante

la carretera de postas que iba desdePamplona a Madrid pasando por Arandade Duero; ahora, la Venta de Goyo esconocida por las especialidades de cazade temporada que prepara su chef JuanCarlos Esteban, entre las que destacan laperdiz y la becada asadas sin modificarapenas su sabor original, la carne devenado con compotas de manzana yde castaña, y el jabalí guisado con setas.Asimismo, se trata de uno de losmejores lugares para degustar loscaparrones de Anguiano, cocinados a laperfección en agua pura de manantial.Más allá de Viniegra de Abajo, en lacarretera LR 113, se halla la nuevalocalidad de Mansilla de la Sierrareconstruida después de 1959 cuandolas aguas de la presa de Mansillacubrieron el antiguo pueblo, que ahorapuede verse claramente desde lacarretera cercana a la presa casi vacía.Desde la ermita de Santa Catalina delsiglo XII, la única construcciónsuperviviente de la vieja localidad,pueden apreciarse tres de los sietepuentes originales del pueblo y losimpresionantes muros del palacio deFernán González (hacia 910-970), elprimer Conde de Castilla y personajeprincipal del Poema épico de FernánGonzález del siglo XIII. Esta obra fueprobablemente escrita por un monjedel Monasterio de San Pedro deArlanza (fundado, según la tradición,por el Conde de Castilla); se trata deun poema habitual de la literatura épicacastellana, esto es, un canto belicoso ypatriótico a la Reconquista y a Castilla.El poema se transmitió oralmente através de las baladas de los trovadores,y en él se narra la historia de las viejasrivalidades existentes entre Castilla ylos vecinos reinos de Navarra y León.Fernán González, inicialmente Condede Burgos, es el héroe que lucha conéxito por la independencia de Castilla.Pese al escaso mérito literario delpoema, Alfonso X el Sabio (1221-1284), el gran rey castellano, erudito,poeta, compositor y guerrero, incluyóuna versión en prosa del mismo en suCrónica General.

Después de atravesar la presade Mansilla, donde la onduladasierra de Urbión se despliegaespectacularmente hacia el este,encontramos el bonito pueblode Canales de la Sierra queforma el límite de Burgos y laComunidad Autónoma de Castillay León, donde la carretera seconvierte en la BU 825, quehacia el sur conduce hasta Salasde los Infantes.



Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon andFranc, and Petit Verdot—on hisbeautiful property, Las Monjas. One ofthe best decisions taken on thisexciting adventure was precisely thechoice of Petit Verdot, previouslyunknown in Spain, which givesoutstanding personality to winesproduced in Ronda. (Today thesevineyards and the winery belong to thepowerful Arco Group, owner ofwineries in the DOCa Rioja, DOPenedès, DO Cava, DO Arribes delDuero, and Argentina).After a gradual start, Ronda becamethe most representative location forred wines in Andalusia. Today thereare as many as 20 wineries, andnewcomers to the noble craft ofwinemaking continue to arrive. Almost30 years later, the local reds are beingawarded high points in the specialistpress both in Spain and elsewhere. Inthis monumental town, a magnet fortourists, the wines have taken offthanks to their success with visitors(Ronda is one of Andalusia’s most-visited cities).After Prince Hohenlohe had startedplanting vines on the advice of hisfriend Lichine, the task was completedby Juan Manuel Vetas, a Spanishemigrant brought up in Bordeaux whothen stayed on, taking charge of thewinery and planting a small vineyardin his own garden. He soon found thatthe vinestock that worked best in thelocal conditions was Petit Verdot.Today he is considered to have one ofthe best Spanish red wines made fromthis variety: Vetas Petit Verdot.This part of Spain exerts the pull of apromised land for certain converts to

ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINES


closeness to the sea.A number of others have followed inthe wake of this enterprisingwinemaker. One of them is AntonioGarcía, the enthusiastic owner of the“garage-sized” Los García deVerdevique winery, with very limitedproduction of Tempranillo wines.Others are Los Barrancos and CuatroVientos.Granada has plenty to offer in the redwine line. The town of Cortes yGraena in the district of Guadix (partof Vino de la Tierra Altiplano de SierraNevada), with its lumpy, stony clay,described by the locals as “turrón-like”and easy to hollow out to form cave-dwellings, is home to small vinegrowers with tiny wineries. RamónSaavedra grows his vines along theCauzón River, a tributary of theAlhama, and produces no more than8,000 bottles. Antonio Vilchez drawsour attention with his very personal

wines. His reds are surprising, made

from Pinot Noir, a variety that

sometimes struggles in soils that are

not those of its native Champagne or

Bourgogne. But, in this Alhama Valley,

the Sierra Nevada works its magic with

icy winds that keep temperatures

down, saving the vinestocks from the

summer heat.

The promised landPerched on the edge of a staggering

ravine, the town of Ronda cuts a

striking figure. If we look back in

history, we find that vines were grown

on these high lands even before

Roman times. The coins minted in the

neighboring Roman town of Acinipo

(4 BC-AD 4) bore a bunch of grapes

on their reverse side. But the

phylloxera showed no consideration

for history and the last traces of vines

disappeared in the 1950s. Then, in the

1980s, pioneers coming from verydifferent directions decided to restorewinemaking in this very beautiful partof Spain. Friedrich Schatz (locallyknown as Federico), a gardener byprofession, was globetrotting when heturned up in Ronda on his travels anddecided to stay on. He planted aselection of foreign varieties on theproperty around his modest countryhouse, including some German andAustrian ones such as Blaufränkischand Lemberger, which give a touch ofdistinction to his much-appreciatedorganic wines. Another German,Prince Hohenlohe, developer ofMarbella and creator of its jetsettingnightlife, took on the consultancyservices of Alexis Lichine (a well-known viticulturist and wine writerfrom Bordeaux) for his wine-growingactivities. And grower and producerCarlos Falcó (Marquis of Griñón)planted several Bordeaux varieties—

ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINES

Juan Palomar, Dominio Buenavista, Ugíjar, Granada.



Cid, page 17), the earliest (1140)recorded Spanish medieval epicliterature. Based, as demonstrated inthe scholarship of Spain’s illustriousliterary historian Ramón MenéndezPidal (1869-1968), on the Germaniccodes of private vengeance inheritedfrom the Visigoths (as opposed to theRoman system of judicial law),Castile, the only 11th-centuryChristian kingdom on the IberianPeninsula, simply perpetuated inRomance language the heroic Nordictradition. The Poema de los Infantes deLara tells a hair-raising story of bloodand vengeance: to avenge an affrontto his wife, Doña Lambra, RuyVelázquez tricks his nephews, theseven infantes (princes) of Lara into aMoorish ambush in which they arekilled and beheaded. The heads aresent as trophies to Cordoba, wheretheir father, Gonzalo Gustioz, havingbeen sold into slavery by the sameRuy Velázquez, is a captive ofAlmanzor, the Moorish Caliph.Almanzor turns the heads over to thestricken father, who swears revenge.Eventually, Gustioz’s bastard sonMudarra, fruit of his relations with aMoorish slave girl provided byAlmanzor, avenges his half brothersby killing Ruy Velázquez and burningDoña Lambra alive.

Today Salas de los Infantes is a goodstop for a lechazo (roast sucklinglamb) or sopa castellana (garlic soup)at Mesón Ricardo and a walk aroundtown. The tourist office at the Museode los Dinosaurios in Plaza Mayorprovides audio-guides explaining thetown’s most interesting points and theschedule for visits to the 15th-centuryChurch of Santa María, where theremains of the heads of the princes ofLara are supposedly kept in asarcophagus to the left of the mainaltar. The curiously twisted conicalbrick chimneys and ancient houses,many of them abandoned, are thetown’s best sights, while Jamones ElPelayo is the place to go for localproducts ranging from smoked anddried goat meat to cow tongue andsheeps’ cheese.Santo Domingo de Silos, 20 minuteswest, is another key way station onthe Spanish language route. Silos was,like the Suso Monastery, an importantlibrary and scriptorium, or copyingworkshop, and the Glosas de Silos,513 annotations in the margin of aLatin text, rank alongside the GlosasEmilianenses as one of the firstexamples of writing in the Spanishvernacular. Gonzalo de Berceo’s TheLife of Santo Domingo was one of hismost important works, and El Cid

spent his first night in Silos afterbeing exiled from Castile by KingAlfonso VI in late 1080 or early 1081.Modern literary references have beeninspired by the towering cypress treein the monastic cloister immortalizedin a 1924 sonnet by Spanish poetGerardo Diego (1896-1987), as wellas in verses by Miguel de Unamuno(1864-1936), Rafael Alberti (1902-1999), and Manuel Machado (1874-1947), among others.Turning to gastronomy, Tres Coronasde Silos hotel serves creditable localfare, while the antiques andfoodstuffs store around the cornerstocks morcilla de Burgos (bloodsausage), cured Vadorrey sheeps’cheese, and Rocas de Silos macaroonsmade of hazelnuts, egg whites,chocolate and vanilla. TheBenedictine monks sing Gregorianchant at the seven o’clock vespersservice, leaving time to drive intoBurgos along the Ruta del Cid,passing Covarrubias and San Pedrode Cardeña amid the sweeping plainsand fields of Castile, both steppingstones on El Cid’s march into exile.Covarrubias offers an excellent diningopportunity at the rustic Restaurantede Galo, while a stop at San Pedro deCardeña is a chance to try theValdevegón Reserva wine made by

closed over the old town, which isnow clearly visible from the road withthe reservoir nearly empty. Visiblebelow the 12th-century Ermita deSanta Catalina temple, the onlysurviving structure from the oldtown, are three of the site’s originalseven bridges and the massive wallsof the palace of Fernán González(circa 910-970), first Count of Castileand subject of the 13th-century epicPoema de Fernán González. Probablywritten by a monk from the SanPedro de Arlanza Monastery(founded, according to tradition, bythe Count of Castile), the poem istypical of Castilian epic literature, abellicose and patriotic paean to theReconquista and Castile. Passeddown orally through balladsperformed by troubadours, the poemtells the story of the age-old rivalriesbetween Castile and its twoneighboring realms of Leon andNavarre. Fernán González, initiallyCount of Burgos, is the hero, fightingsuccessfully for the independence ofCastile. Despite the poem’s scantliterary merit, Alfonso X el Sabio(1221-1284), Spain’s great warrior-composer-poet-scholar-king,included a prose version of it in hisCrónica General.Past the Mansilla reservoir, with therolling Sierra de Urbión mountainrising dramatically to the east, thehandsome town of Canales de laSierra is the border of Burgos and theregion of Castile-Leon, where theroad becomes the BU-825, headedsouth down to Salas de los Infantes.

Epic CastileSalas de los Infantes is famous for thepre-Chanson de Roland Poema de losInfantes de Lara, a precursor to ElCantar de Mio Cid (El Cantar de Mio


Castilla la épicaSalas de los Infantes es un lugarfamoso por el Poema de los Infantes deLara, anterior a la Canción de Rolando yprecursor de El Cantar de Mío Cid (“ElCantar de Mío Cid”, pág. 17), el cualconstituye la obra épica medieval encastellano más antigua registrada(1140). Tal como se pone de relieveen los estudios del ilustre historiadorliterario español Ramón MenéndezPidal (1869-1968), el poema se basaen los códigos germánicos de venganzaprivada heredados de los visigodos(a diferencia del régimen romanode derecho procesal), de modo queCastilla, el único reino cristiano dela Península Ibérica en el siglo XI,simplemente perpetuaba en lenguaromance la tradición heroica nórdica.En el Poema de los Infantes de Lara secuenta una historia espeluznante desangre y venganza: con el propósito devengar la afrenta sufrida por su esposaDoña Lambra, Ruy Velázquez engaña asus sobrinos, los siete Infantes de Lara,conduciéndolos a una emboscadatendida por los moros en la que sonasesinados y decapitados. Después,las cabezas son enviadas como trofeosa Córdoba donde su padre, GonzaloGustioz, tras haber sido vendido comoesclavo por el propio Ruy Velázquez,es prisionero de Almanzor, el califaárabe. Almanzor muestra las cabezasal afligido padre, que en ese momentojura vengarse. Al final, el hijo bastardode Gustioz, llamado Mudarra, fruto

de sus relaciones con una esclava moraregalada por Almanzor, venga a sushermanastros matando a Ruy Velázquezy quemando viva a Doña Lambra.En la actualidad, Salas de los Infanteses un excelente lugar para detenerse ydegustar el lechazo o la sopa castellanaen el mesón Ricardo y después dar unpaseo por la localidad. La Oficina deTurismo, situada en el Museo de losDinosaurios enclavado en la PlazaMayor, ofrece guías de audio en lasque se detallan los lugares másinteresantes de la ciudad y las horas devisita de la iglesia de Santa María, delsiglo XV, donde se dice que se guardanlos restos de las cabezas de los Infantesde Lara en un sarcófago situado a laizquierda del altar principal. Lasantiguas casas y sus chimeneas cónicasde ladrillo curiosamente retorcidas,muchas de ellas abandonadas,constituyen lo más interesante dever de la localidad, mientras que elestablecimiento Jamones El Pelayo esel lugar ideal para adquirir productoslocales como cabrito seco y ahumado,lengua de vaca y quesos de oveja.Santo Domingo de Silos, localidadsituada a veinte minutos hacia el oeste,es otra de las paradas clave de la Rutade la Lengua Castellana. Al igual queel Monasterio de Suso, Silos poseía unagran biblioteca y un taller de copiadoo scriptorium, de forma que lasdenominadas Glosas de Silos, 513anotaciones en el margen de un textolatino, junto con las Glosas Emilianenses,constituyen uno de los primeros

ejemplos de escritos en castellanovernáculo. La Vida de Santo Domingo,de Gonzalo de Berceo, es una de susobras más importantes, y el Cid pasósu primera noche en Silos tras serdesterrado de Castilla por el ReyAlfonso VI a finales del año 1080o principios de 1081. Muchasreferencias literarias modernas sehan inspirado en el altísimo cipréssito en el claustro del monasterio,inmortalizado en un soneto del poetaespañol Gerardo Diego (1896-1987)escrito en 1924, así como en los versosde Miguel de Unamuno (1864-1936),de Rafael Alberti (1902-1999) yde Manuel Machado (1874-1947),entre otros poetas.En lo que atañe a la gastronomía, elrestaurante Tres Coronas de Silos sirveencomiables platos locales, mientrasque en la tienda de antigüedades ycomestibles, situada justo al lado, sevenden morcillas de Burgos, quesoscurados de oveja de Vadorrey ymacarrones Rocas de Silos hechos deavellanas, claras de huevo, chocolatey vainilla. Los monjes benedictinosentonan cantos gregorianos duranteel oficio de vísperas de las siete de lamañana, lo cual nos permite llegar aBurgos por la Ruta del Cid, pasandopor Covarrubias y San Pedro deCardeña a través de los anchos camposy llanuras de Castilla, localidades porlas que cabalgó el Cid en su marchahacia el exilio. Covarrubias nos ofreceuna excelente oportunidad paradegustar los platos del restaurante

la carretera de postas que iba desdePamplona a Madrid pasando por Arandade Duero; ahora, la Venta de Goyo esconocida por las especialidades de cazade temporada que prepara su chef JuanCarlos Esteban, entre las que destacan laperdiz y la becada asadas sin modificarapenas su sabor original, la carne devenado con compotas de manzana yde castaña, y el jabalí guisado con setas.Asimismo, se trata de uno de losmejores lugares para degustar loscaparrones de Anguiano, cocinados a laperfección en agua pura de manantial.Más allá de Viniegra de Abajo, en lacarretera LR 113, se halla la nuevalocalidad de Mansilla de la Sierrareconstruida después de 1959 cuandolas aguas de la presa de Mansillacubrieron el antiguo pueblo, que ahorapuede verse claramente desde lacarretera cercana a la presa casi vacía.Desde la ermita de Santa Catalina delsiglo XII, la única construcciónsuperviviente de la vieja localidad,pueden apreciarse tres de los sietepuentes originales del pueblo y losimpresionantes muros del palacio deFernán González (hacia 910-970), elprimer Conde de Castilla y personajeprincipal del Poema épico de FernánGonzález del siglo XIII. Esta obra fueprobablemente escrita por un monjedel Monasterio de San Pedro deArlanza (fundado, según la tradición,por el Conde de Castilla); se trata deun poema habitual de la literatura épicacastellana, esto es, un canto belicoso ypatriótico a la Reconquista y a Castilla.El poema se transmitió oralmente através de las baladas de los trovadores,y en él se narra la historia de las viejasrivalidades existentes entre Castilla ylos vecinos reinos de Navarra y León.Fernán González, inicialmente Condede Burgos, es el héroe que lucha conéxito por la independencia de Castilla.Pese al escaso mérito literario delpoema, Alfonso X el Sabio (1221-1284), el gran rey castellano, erudito,poeta, compositor y guerrero, incluyóuna versión en prosa del mismo en suCrónica General.

Después de atravesar la presade Mansilla, donde la onduladasierra de Urbión se despliegaespectacularmente hacia el este,encontramos el bonito pueblode Canales de la Sierra queforma el límite de Burgos y laComunidad Autónoma de Castillay León, donde la carretera seconvierte en la BU 825, quehacia el sur conduce hasta Salasde los Infantes.



Cid, page 17), the earliest (1140)recorded Spanish medieval epicliterature. Based, as demonstrated inthe scholarship of Spain’s illustriousliterary historian Ramón MenéndezPidal (1869-1968), on the Germaniccodes of private vengeance inheritedfrom the Visigoths (as opposed to theRoman system of judicial law),Castile, the only 11th-centuryChristian kingdom on the IberianPeninsula, simply perpetuated inRomance language the heroic Nordictradition. The Poema de los Infantes deLara tells a hair-raising story of bloodand vengeance: to avenge an affrontto his wife, Doña Lambra, RuyVelázquez tricks his nephews, theseven infantes (princes) of Lara into aMoorish ambush in which they arekilled and beheaded. The heads aresent as trophies to Cordoba, wheretheir father, Gonzalo Gustioz, havingbeen sold into slavery by the sameRuy Velázquez, is a captive ofAlmanzor, the Moorish Caliph.Almanzor turns the heads over to thestricken father, who swears revenge.Eventually, Gustioz’s bastard sonMudarra, fruit of his relations with aMoorish slave girl provided byAlmanzor, avenges his half brothersby killing Ruy Velázquez and burningDoña Lambra alive.

Today Salas de los Infantes is a goodstop for a lechazo (roast sucklinglamb) or sopa castellana (garlic soup)at Mesón Ricardo and a walk aroundtown. The tourist office at the Museode los Dinosaurios in Plaza Mayorprovides audio-guides explaining thetown’s most interesting points and theschedule for visits to the 15th-centuryChurch of Santa María, where theremains of the heads of the princes ofLara are supposedly kept in asarcophagus to the left of the mainaltar. The curiously twisted conicalbrick chimneys and ancient houses,many of them abandoned, are thetown’s best sights, while Jamones ElPelayo is the place to go for localproducts ranging from smoked anddried goat meat to cow tongue andsheeps’ cheese.Santo Domingo de Silos, 20 minuteswest, is another key way station onthe Spanish language route. Silos was,like the Suso Monastery, an importantlibrary and scriptorium, or copyingworkshop, and the Glosas de Silos,513 annotations in the margin of aLatin text, rank alongside the GlosasEmilianenses as one of the firstexamples of writing in the Spanishvernacular. Gonzalo de Berceo’s TheLife of Santo Domingo was one of hismost important works, and El Cid

spent his first night in Silos afterbeing exiled from Castile by KingAlfonso VI in late 1080 or early 1081.Modern literary references have beeninspired by the towering cypress treein the monastic cloister immortalizedin a 1924 sonnet by Spanish poetGerardo Diego (1896-1987), as wellas in verses by Miguel de Unamuno(1864-1936), Rafael Alberti (1902-1999), and Manuel Machado (1874-1947), among others.Turning to gastronomy, Tres Coronasde Silos hotel serves creditable localfare, while the antiques andfoodstuffs store around the cornerstocks morcilla de Burgos (bloodsausage), cured Vadorrey sheeps’cheese, and Rocas de Silos macaroonsmade of hazelnuts, egg whites,chocolate and vanilla. TheBenedictine monks sing Gregorianchant at the seven o’clock vespersservice, leaving time to drive intoBurgos along the Ruta del Cid,passing Covarrubias and San Pedrode Cardeña amid the sweeping plainsand fields of Castile, both steppingstones on El Cid’s march into exile.Covarrubias offers an excellent diningopportunity at the rustic Restaurantede Galo, while a stop at San Pedro deCardeña is a chance to try theValdevegón Reserva wine made by

closed over the old town, which isnow clearly visible from the road withthe reservoir nearly empty. Visiblebelow the 12th-century Ermita deSanta Catalina temple, the onlysurviving structure from the oldtown, are three of the site’s originalseven bridges and the massive wallsof the palace of Fernán González(circa 910-970), first Count of Castileand subject of the 13th-century epicPoema de Fernán González. Probablywritten by a monk from the SanPedro de Arlanza Monastery(founded, according to tradition, bythe Count of Castile), the poem istypical of Castilian epic literature, abellicose and patriotic paean to theReconquista and Castile. Passeddown orally through balladsperformed by troubadours, the poemtells the story of the age-old rivalriesbetween Castile and its twoneighboring realms of Leon andNavarre. Fernán González, initiallyCount of Burgos, is the hero, fightingsuccessfully for the independence ofCastile. Despite the poem’s scantliterary merit, Alfonso X el Sabio(1221-1284), Spain’s great warrior-composer-poet-scholar-king,included a prose version of it in hisCrónica General.Past the Mansilla reservoir, with therolling Sierra de Urbión mountainrising dramatically to the east, thehandsome town of Canales de laSierra is the border of Burgos and theregion of Castile-Leon, where theroad becomes the BU-825, headedsouth down to Salas de los Infantes.

Epic CastileSalas de los Infantes is famous for thepre-Chanson de Roland Poema de losInfantes de Lara, a precursor to ElCantar de Mio Cid (El Cantar de Mio



“Ego Ruderico simul cum coniuge meaafirmo oc quod superius scriptum est.”(I, Rodrigo, with my wife, affirmwhat is written above). Thesignificance of this handwrittensentence is, first, that Rodrigo Díazde Vivar knew how to write, givingan idea of his elevated social statusas the educated son of an Hidalgo,and that, second, he recognized hiswife Jimena as his partner at a time

when the value of women in societywas less than that of a horse.Vivar del Cid is filled with RodrigoDíaz de Vivar memorabilia, from theinscribed monument in the middle oftown to the Clarist Convent, SantaClara de Vivar, next to the mill wherethe manuscript of El Cantar was keptuntil 1778. The Clarisas makeexquisite cookies called tizonas,named for La Tizona, el Cid


the monks of the San PedroMonastery.

El Cid, a man forall seasonsBurgos, celebrating the city’s firstannual Fin de Semana Cidiano—aweekend devoted to the protagonistof El Cantar, Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar,El Cid Campeador (circa 1045-1099)—is abuzz with spectatorscoming in from the joustingtournament just completed in thePaseo del Espolón (Espolón Road)that runs along the Arlanzón Riverthat splits the city in two. The stallsin the medieval market set uparound the cathedral in Plaza delRey San Fernando (Rey SanFernando Square) display nearly

every food product available fromBurgos and beyond: morcilla fromSotopalacios and Briviesca, flat tortade aceite bread from Tardajos,morcilla with cumin seed fromGumiel de Izán, the local freshqueso de Burgos cheese (SpainGourmetour No. 75), cured sheeps’cheese from Sotillo de la Ribera, Florde Esgueva sheeps’ cheese fromPeñafiel in Valladolid, and Torta delCasar cheese from Extremadura(Spain Gourmetour No. 75).Mesón del Cid in Plaza Santa María(Santa María Square) next to thecathedral is a classic 15th-centuryCastilian setting with ancient tiles,hand hewn beams and eccentricnooks and crannies, ideal for intimatedining in a lively maelstrom ofmovement. The typical Burgos menuof sopa Doña Jimena (garlic soupnamed for El Cid’s wife), morcillafrom Burgos with red peppers, androast suckling lamb, followed by thepostre del abuelo (grandfather’sdessert) of fresh queso de Burgoscheese, hazelnuts, and honey, allaccompanied by a generous flow of aDO Ribera de Duero red, is areminder that Burgos, just 80 km (49mi) from the Duero river, is in a newwine DO.Casa Ojeda, near Plaza del Cid (CidPlaza) on Vitoria Street roasts thefinest lechazo in Burgos in itstraditional wood oven—lambs sosucculent, tender, and full of flavorthat veteran Casa Ojeda stafferAntonio Sanllorente (66 years old andone of the original team that openedthe restaurant in 1965) claims that:“To be good, they have to have heardthe bells of the cathedral.”A visit to Burgos would not becomplete without a stroll from Plazadel Cid past the exquisitely-carvedwooden side door on the west side ofthe Teatro Principal (PrincipalTheater), and under the dark tunnelof plane trees through the Paseo del

Espolón to the Arco de Santa María(Santa María Arch), the mainmedieval entrance to city. A loop backthrough the cathedral and along Callede la Paloma (La Paloma Street)passes excellent produce stores suchas Casa Quintanilla and Pecaditos deBurgos, leading back to Plaza Mayor.A visit to the Royal Monastery of LasHuelgas and the Cartuja deMiraflores Monastery for a look at theCapilla Mayor sculptures are twomore not-to-be-missed sites.Just northwest of Burgos in Vivar delCid, birthplace of the Campeador,the Mesón Molino del Cid, at thestart (Legua 0) of the Camino delCid, is the place for Castilianspecialties, from cocidos (stews) tocochinillos (suckling pigs) orlechazos. Even more important is theEl Cid history, explained eloquentlyby owner Javier Alonso, who freelyrecites chapter and verse from ElCantar de Mio Cid. The original milldates back to medieval times andmay well have belonged to DiegoLaínez de Vivar (1020-1058), fatherof El Cid, who was Hidalgo deUbierna and Infanzón de Vivar, nobletitles that would have given him aninterest in the region’s mills. Thepresent mill machinery dates back tothe mid-19th century, while the glasswindow in the floor of the backdining room shows the waterflowing under the building. Thewalls are covered with El Cidreferences, from paintings depictinghis farewell to Doña Jimena and hischildren as he departed into exile, tophotos of leading El Cantar de MíoCid scholar Ramón Menéndez Pidalvisiting the mill in 1963. As JavierAlonso will explain, the copy of theCarta de arras (the weddingcontract) of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivarand Doña Jimena (the originalparchment is in the Burgoscathedral) shows Rodrigo de Vivar’sown handwriting in the sentence

· EchaurrenPadre José García, 1926280 Ezcaray - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 35 40 47www.echaurren.com

· Venta MoncalvilloCtra. de Medrano, 626373 Daroca de Rioja - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 44 48 32www.ventamoncalvillo.com

· Parador de SantoDomingo de la CalzadaPlaza del Santo, 326250 Santo Domingode la Calzada - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 34 03 00www.parador.es

· Hostería del Monasteriode San MillánSan Agustín, 226226 San Millán de laCogolla - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 37 32 77www.sanmillan.com

· La HerraduraCtra. de Lerma, km 1426322 Anguiano - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 37 71 51www.sanmillan.com

· Hospedería Abadía de ValvaneraSalida Ctra. LR-113 (km 5)26322 Anguiano - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 37 70 44www.abadiavalvanera.com

· Venta de GoyoCtra. LR-113, km 24.626325 Viniegra de Abajo - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 37 80 07www.ventadegoyo.com

· Mesón RicardoCtra. de Burgos, 1009600 Salas de los Infantes - BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 30 01 31

· Tres Coronas de SilosPlaza Mayor, 609610 Santo Domingo de Silos - BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 39 00 47www.hoteltrescoronasdesilos.com

· De GaloMonseñor Vargas, 1009346 Covarrubias - BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 40 63 93www.degalo.com

· Mesón del CidPlaza Santa Maria, 809003 BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 20 87 15www.mesondelcid.es

· Casa OjedaVitoria, 509005 BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 20 90 52www.grupojeda.es

· Mesón Molino del CidCtra. Burgos-Santander, km 909140 Vivar del Cid - BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 29 20 16

W H E R E T O S L E E P A N D E A T

Campeador’s sword, a perfect endingto a lunch and a gastro-literary tourthrough the beginnings of theSpanish language.

George Semler, who is based inBarcelona, has written about travel, foodand wine for numerous publicationsincluding Saveur, Sky, Forbes Life, Travel& Leisure, as well as for Condé Nast’sepicurious.com for the last 20 years.



“Ego Ruderico simul cum coniuge meaafirmo oc quod superius scriptum est.”(I, Rodrigo, with my wife, affirmwhat is written above). Thesignificance of this handwrittensentence is, first, that Rodrigo Díazde Vivar knew how to write, givingan idea of his elevated social statusas the educated son of an Hidalgo,and that, second, he recognized hiswife Jimena as his partner at a time

when the value of women in societywas less than that of a horse.Vivar del Cid is filled with RodrigoDíaz de Vivar memorabilia, from theinscribed monument in the middle oftown to the Clarist Convent, SantaClara de Vivar, next to the mill wherethe manuscript of El Cantar was keptuntil 1778. The Clarisas makeexquisite cookies called tizonas,named for La Tizona, el Cid


the monks of the San PedroMonastery.

El Cid, a man forall seasonsBurgos, celebrating the city’s firstannual Fin de Semana Cidiano—aweekend devoted to the protagonistof El Cantar, Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar,El Cid Campeador (circa 1045-1099)—is abuzz with spectatorscoming in from the joustingtournament just completed in thePaseo del Espolón (Espolón Road)that runs along the Arlanzón Riverthat splits the city in two. The stallsin the medieval market set uparound the cathedral in Plaza delRey San Fernando (Rey SanFernando Square) display nearly

every food product available fromBurgos and beyond: morcilla fromSotopalacios and Briviesca, flat tortade aceite bread from Tardajos,morcilla with cumin seed fromGumiel de Izán, the local freshqueso de Burgos cheese (SpainGourmetour No. 75), cured sheeps’cheese from Sotillo de la Ribera, Florde Esgueva sheeps’ cheese fromPeñafiel in Valladolid, and Torta delCasar cheese from Extremadura(Spain Gourmetour No. 75).Mesón del Cid in Plaza Santa María(Santa María Square) next to thecathedral is a classic 15th-centuryCastilian setting with ancient tiles,hand hewn beams and eccentricnooks and crannies, ideal for intimatedining in a lively maelstrom ofmovement. The typical Burgos menuof sopa Doña Jimena (garlic soupnamed for El Cid’s wife), morcillafrom Burgos with red peppers, androast suckling lamb, followed by thepostre del abuelo (grandfather’sdessert) of fresh queso de Burgoscheese, hazelnuts, and honey, allaccompanied by a generous flow of aDO Ribera de Duero red, is areminder that Burgos, just 80 km (49mi) from the Duero river, is in a newwine DO.Casa Ojeda, near Plaza del Cid (CidPlaza) on Vitoria Street roasts thefinest lechazo in Burgos in itstraditional wood oven—lambs sosucculent, tender, and full of flavorthat veteran Casa Ojeda stafferAntonio Sanllorente (66 years old andone of the original team that openedthe restaurant in 1965) claims that:“To be good, they have to have heardthe bells of the cathedral.”A visit to Burgos would not becomplete without a stroll from Plazadel Cid past the exquisitely-carvedwooden side door on the west side ofthe Teatro Principal (PrincipalTheater), and under the dark tunnelof plane trees through the Paseo del

Espolón to the Arco de Santa María(Santa María Arch), the mainmedieval entrance to city. A loop backthrough the cathedral and along Callede la Paloma (La Paloma Street)passes excellent produce stores suchas Casa Quintanilla and Pecaditos deBurgos, leading back to Plaza Mayor.A visit to the Royal Monastery of LasHuelgas and the Cartuja deMiraflores Monastery for a look at theCapilla Mayor sculptures are twomore not-to-be-missed sites.Just northwest of Burgos in Vivar delCid, birthplace of the Campeador,the Mesón Molino del Cid, at thestart (Legua 0) of the Camino delCid, is the place for Castilianspecialties, from cocidos (stews) tocochinillos (suckling pigs) orlechazos. Even more important is theEl Cid history, explained eloquentlyby owner Javier Alonso, who freelyrecites chapter and verse from ElCantar de Mio Cid. The original milldates back to medieval times andmay well have belonged to DiegoLaínez de Vivar (1020-1058), fatherof El Cid, who was Hidalgo deUbierna and Infanzón de Vivar, nobletitles that would have given him aninterest in the region’s mills. Thepresent mill machinery dates back tothe mid-19th century, while the glasswindow in the floor of the backdining room shows the waterflowing under the building. Thewalls are covered with El Cidreferences, from paintings depictinghis farewell to Doña Jimena and hischildren as he departed into exile, tophotos of leading El Cantar de MíoCid scholar Ramón Menéndez Pidalvisiting the mill in 1963. As JavierAlonso will explain, the copy of theCarta de arras (the weddingcontract) of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivarand Doña Jimena (the originalparchment is in the Burgoscathedral) shows Rodrigo de Vivar’sown handwriting in the sentence

· EchaurrenPadre José García, 1926280 Ezcaray - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 35 40 47www.echaurren.com

· Venta MoncalvilloCtra. de Medrano, 626373 Daroca de Rioja - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 44 48 32www.ventamoncalvillo.com

· Parador de SantoDomingo de la CalzadaPlaza del Santo, 326250 Santo Domingode la Calzada - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 34 03 00www.parador.es

· Hostería del Monasteriode San MillánSan Agustín, 226226 San Millán de laCogolla - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 37 32 77www.sanmillan.com

· La HerraduraCtra. de Lerma, km 1426322 Anguiano - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 37 71 51www.sanmillan.com

· Hospedería Abadía de ValvaneraSalida Ctra. LR-113 (km 5)26322 Anguiano - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 37 70 44www.abadiavalvanera.com

· Venta de GoyoCtra. LR-113, km 24.626325 Viniegra de Abajo - La RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 37 80 07www.ventadegoyo.com

· Mesón RicardoCtra. de Burgos, 1009600 Salas de los Infantes - BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 30 01 31

· Tres Coronas de SilosPlaza Mayor, 609610 Santo Domingo de Silos - BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 39 00 47www.hoteltrescoronasdesilos.com

· De GaloMonseñor Vargas, 1009346 Covarrubias - BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 40 63 93www.degalo.com

· Mesón del CidPlaza Santa Maria, 809003 BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 20 87 15www.mesondelcid.es

· Casa OjedaVitoria, 509005 BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 20 90 52www.grupojeda.es

· Mesón Molino del CidCtra. Burgos-Santander, km 909140 Vivar del Cid - BurgosTel.: (+34) 947 29 20 16

W H E R E T O S L E E P A N D E A T

Campeador’s sword, a perfect endingto a lunch and a gastro-literary tourthrough the beginnings of theSpanish language.

George Semler, who is based inBarcelona, has written about travel, foodand wine for numerous publicationsincluding Saveur, Sky, Forbes Life, Travel& Leisure, as well as for Condé Nast’sepicurious.com for the last 20 years.



The Quest forAndalusian RedsAndalusia, where continents start and end, where seasconverge, a melting pot, the home of rich cultures witha wine-growing tradition that dates back thousands ofyears. Its multiple landscapes include fertile plainswith gently-flowing rivers, Europe’s largest desert andthe highest slopes of the Iberian Peninsula. Famed theworld over are its great fortified wines, born from whitevarieties. But is there light beyond fortified wines?Andalusia’s winemakers today are determined to provethat the answer is yes, and that the region is shiningbright. With Andalusia’s wealth of microclimates, it isnot hard to trace top-quality reds.

StepsOutinRed

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A



The Quest forAndalusian RedsAndalusia, where continents start and end, where seasconverge, a melting pot, the home of rich cultures witha wine-growing tradition that dates back thousands ofyears. Its multiple landscapes include fertile plainswith gently-flowing rivers, Europe’s largest desert andthe highest slopes of the Iberian Peninsula. Famed theworld over are its great fortified wines, born from whitevarieties. But is there light beyond fortified wines?Andalusia’s winemakers today are determined to provethat the answer is yes, and that the region is shiningbright. With Andalusia’s wealth of microclimates, it isnot hard to trace top-quality reds.

StepsOutinRed

ANDA

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of about 20,000 bottles. This winery,with a vineyard at about 1,500 m(4,921 ft) facing east and growingChardonnay, Viognier and Merlot, willsoon be bringing out its first wines.Nearby, in the village of Ugíjar, is theDominio Buenavista winery, owned byJuan Palomar, a famous, locally-bornsurgeon who now works in the US. Itsproducts range from white to red andinclude a sparkling wine made fromthe local, white Vijariego variety underthe name of Señorío de Buenavista,and another series called Veleta. Theyare all covered by the designation Vinode la Tierra Cumbres del Guadalfeo, anidyllic spot with views over the SierraNevada and the Sierra de Gádormountains. The most widely-grownvarieties are Cabernet Sauvignon,Merlot, Tempranillo and Syrah, as wellas some that were growing there priorto the recent surge in reds, such asGarnacha Tinta and Monastrell.This peaceful spot offers breathtakingviews as far as the African coast, whichappears on the horizon on clearafternoons, and in the evening lightthe distant Mediterranean shimmers asa strip of gold. In the other direction isthe majestic Mulhacén, the tallest peakin the Sierra Nevada, like a warriorguarding over the essence ofAndalusia. The soils are poor, of schist,and the microclimate is unusual in thatit combines high altitude with

Back in 1807, Simón de RoxasClemente (1777-1827), Spain’s mostillustrious wine historian, described116 grape varieties in Andalusiaalone—a rich heritage of red andwhite, aromatic and native grapes.Back when the dreaded phylloxeraarrived (in 1878 in Málaga, fromwhere it spread to the otherAndalusian provinces), the Andalusianwines that were in demand the worldover were the different types offortified wine, made from whitegrapes. Obviously, growers dideverything they could to save theseprecious vines. This meant the redones were often neglected or, at most,were only grown in small pockets forlocal consumption. Two hundred yearsafter that historical compilation, eachof the eight Andalusian provinces isseeing a proliferation of red wines,many of them of excellent quality. Thegood thing about the disaster was thatit left growers free to choose thevariety that best suited their land, theirmicroclimate and, above all, theirtastes.The quest for new red wines inAndalusia began about 30 years ago.Today, every possible red variety isgrown here, from all sorts of origins:Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon andFranc, Malbec, Petit Verdot fromBordeaux together with Pinot Noir andthe favorite Syrah from Bourgogne,

alongside Portuguese, German,Austrian, Italian and, of course,Spanish varieties. And somewinemakers have been makingadmirable efforts to recover almost-forgotten native varieties: Tintilla deRota, Jaén Tinta and Romé Tinta.

High-flying vinesThe key to making red wines inAndalusia, where it is not unusual forsummer temperatures to reach 40ºC(104ºF) in the shade, is to protect thevines from the ravages of the heat. As aresult, growers have sought out highlands where there are cooling breezesand the soils are acid and balanced.But this has led them to rugged terrainand steep slopes in areas such as theAlpujarras (Granada/Almería), themountainous parts to the north ofSeville and the Ronda mountains(Málaga), which are gradually beingplanted again with vines. And most ofthese vines are red varieties.Manuel Valenzuela was the first to

establish vineyards at such heights, ina district called Costa-Albondón.Growers had previously been reluctantto go so high, resigning themselves tomaking rough, cloudy wines. He tellsus his small vineyard called Cerro delas Monjas is at an altitude of almost1,400 m (4,593 ft), one of the highestin Continental Europe. His home andwinery, Cortijo Barranco Oscuro, is inCádiar, Sierra de la Contraviesa, in themidst of the Alpujarras. He set out as awinemaker, some would say at greatrisk, using organic methods. He triedout varieties that were reminiscent oftimes past, such as the rare whiteVijariego, which only exists in Granadaand the Canary Islands. But he alsotried his hand at some of the Frenchand Italian stocks that are famous onthe international wine-growing scene.His most representative wine is namedafter its altitude: Barranco Oscuro1368. It is made from Garnacha,Cabernet (both Sauvignon and Franc),Merlot and Tempranillo. He alsomakes a Pinot Noir called Borgoñón.At this altitude, the grapes develop asurprising elegance and greatpersonality. But a new viticulturaladventure is about to take center stage.Óscar Lescure, an oenologist whoadvises a number of vineyards inAndalusia and Ribera de Duero, is nowmanaging Ladera de Castañar, aproject which calls for the production

ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINESTEXT

BARTOLOMÉ SÁNCHEZ/©ICEX

PHOTOSFERNANDO MADARIAGA/©ICEX

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD/©ICEX

Manuel and Lorenzo Valenzuela, Barranco Oscuro, Cádiar, Granada.




of about 20,000 bottles. This winery,with a vineyard at about 1,500 m(4,921 ft) facing east and growingChardonnay, Viognier and Merlot, willsoon be bringing out its first wines.Nearby, in the village of Ugíjar, is theDominio Buenavista winery, owned byJuan Palomar, a famous, locally-bornsurgeon who now works in the US. Itsproducts range from white to red andinclude a sparkling wine made fromthe local, white Vijariego variety underthe name of Señorío de Buenavista,and another series called Veleta. Theyare all covered by the designation Vinode la Tierra Cumbres del Guadalfeo, anidyllic spot with views over the SierraNevada and the Sierra de Gádormountains. The most widely-grownvarieties are Cabernet Sauvignon,Merlot, Tempranillo and Syrah, as wellas some that were growing there priorto the recent surge in reds, such asGarnacha Tinta and Monastrell.This peaceful spot offers breathtakingviews as far as the African coast, whichappears on the horizon on clearafternoons, and in the evening lightthe distant Mediterranean shimmers asa strip of gold. In the other direction isthe majestic Mulhacén, the tallest peakin the Sierra Nevada, like a warriorguarding over the essence ofAndalusia. The soils are poor, of schist,and the microclimate is unusual in thatit combines high altitude with

Back in 1807, Simón de RoxasClemente (1777-1827), Spain’s mostillustrious wine historian, described116 grape varieties in Andalusiaalone—a rich heritage of red andwhite, aromatic and native grapes.Back when the dreaded phylloxeraarrived (in 1878 in Málaga, fromwhere it spread to the otherAndalusian provinces), the Andalusianwines that were in demand the worldover were the different types offortified wine, made from whitegrapes. Obviously, growers dideverything they could to save theseprecious vines. This meant the redones were often neglected or, at most,were only grown in small pockets forlocal consumption. Two hundred yearsafter that historical compilation, eachof the eight Andalusian provinces isseeing a proliferation of red wines,many of them of excellent quality. Thegood thing about the disaster was thatit left growers free to choose thevariety that best suited their land, theirmicroclimate and, above all, theirtastes.The quest for new red wines inAndalusia began about 30 years ago.Today, every possible red variety isgrown here, from all sorts of origins:Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon andFranc, Malbec, Petit Verdot fromBordeaux together with Pinot Noir andthe favorite Syrah from Bourgogne,

alongside Portuguese, German,Austrian, Italian and, of course,Spanish varieties. And somewinemakers have been makingadmirable efforts to recover almost-forgotten native varieties: Tintilla deRota, Jaén Tinta and Romé Tinta.

High-flying vinesThe key to making red wines inAndalusia, where it is not unusual forsummer temperatures to reach 40ºC(104ºF) in the shade, is to protect thevines from the ravages of the heat. As aresult, growers have sought out highlands where there are cooling breezesand the soils are acid and balanced.But this has led them to rugged terrainand steep slopes in areas such as theAlpujarras (Granada/Almería), themountainous parts to the north ofSeville and the Ronda mountains(Málaga), which are gradually beingplanted again with vines. And most ofthese vines are red varieties.Manuel Valenzuela was the first to

establish vineyards at such heights, ina district called Costa-Albondón.Growers had previously been reluctantto go so high, resigning themselves tomaking rough, cloudy wines. He tellsus his small vineyard called Cerro delas Monjas is at an altitude of almost1,400 m (4,593 ft), one of the highestin Continental Europe. His home andwinery, Cortijo Barranco Oscuro, is inCádiar, Sierra de la Contraviesa, in themidst of the Alpujarras. He set out as awinemaker, some would say at greatrisk, using organic methods. He triedout varieties that were reminiscent oftimes past, such as the rare whiteVijariego, which only exists in Granadaand the Canary Islands. But he alsotried his hand at some of the Frenchand Italian stocks that are famous onthe international wine-growing scene.His most representative wine is namedafter its altitude: Barranco Oscuro1368. It is made from Garnacha,Cabernet (both Sauvignon and Franc),Merlot and Tempranillo. He alsomakes a Pinot Noir called Borgoñón.At this altitude, the grapes develop asurprising elegance and greatpersonality. But a new viticulturaladventure is about to take center stage.Óscar Lescure, an oenologist whoadvises a number of vineyards inAndalusia and Ribera de Duero, is nowmanaging Ladera de Castañar, aproject which calls for the production

ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINESTEXT

BARTOLOMÉ SÁNCHEZ/©ICEX

PHOTOSFERNANDO MADARIAGA/©ICEX


Manuel and Lorenzo Valenzuela, Barranco Oscuro, Cádiar, Granada.





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summer heat.














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summer heat.














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ANDALUSIAN REDS

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D E S I G N A T I O N S O F O R I G I N A N D V I N O S D E L A T I E R R A C O V E R I N G R E D W I N E S I N A N D A L U S I A

Vineyards occupy 40,000 ha (98,842acres) in Andalusia, and over 60% ofthem belong to areas with adesignation of origin. Most of theremainder are labeled “Vinos de laTierra”. Grapevines are grown in all theprovinces. Cádiz is in the lead withalmost 11,000 ha (27,181 acres),followed by Córdoba, with 9,000 ha(22,239 acres). Next come Huelvawith 6,500 ha (16,061 acres), Granadawith just over 5,000 ha (12,355 acres),Málaga with almost 3,000 ha (7,413acres) and Almería with 823 ha (2,033acres).

· Designation of Origin Málaga ySierras de Málagawww.vinomalaga.com

Subzones:AxarquíaThe easternmost part of theprovince, with shallow, slatey soils.Romé is the native variety.

MontesThis is the mountainous area aroundthe city of Málaga.

Zona NorteWhitish soils on hills sloping towardsthe Mediterranean.

Costa OccidentalMainly the plain of Antequera, withdeep, limey, brown soils.

SerraníaAverage altitude of 750 m (2,461 ft).Clay, silty soils with very limeysubsoil.The favorite varieties are Merlot,Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc,Syrah, Merlot, Tempranillo andRomé. Also suitable are Pinot Noir,Colombard, Garnacha and PetitVerdot.

· Designation of Origin Condadode Huelvawww.condadodehuelva.esVarieties: Syrah, Tempranillo,Cabernet Sauvignon, CabernetFranc and Merlot.

· Vino de la Tierra de BailénVarieties: Garnacha, CabernetSauvignon, Molinera andTempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra de CádizVarieties: Tempranillo, Syrah,Cabernet Sauvignon, GarnachaTinta, Monastrell, Merlot, Tintilla deRota, Petit Verdot and CabernetFranc.

· Vino de la Tierra Cumbresdel GuadalfeoVarieties: Garnacha, CabernetSauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,Pinot Noir, Tempranillo and Syrah.

· Vino de la Tierra de CórdobaVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Pinot Noirand Tintilla de Rota.

· Vino de la Tierra del Desiertode AlmeríaVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha, Merlot, Monastrell, Syrahand Tempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra Laderas del GenilVarieties: Garnacha, CabernetSauvignon, Merlot, Perruna, PinotNoir, Syrah and Tempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra de Laujar-AlpujarraVarieties: Garnacha, CabernetSauvignon, Merlot, Monastrell, Syrahand Tempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra Altiplano deSierra NevadaVarieties: Tempranillo, CabernetFranc, Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha, Merlot, Monastrell, PinotNoir and Syrah.

· Vino de la Tierra Ribera del AndaraxVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha, Merlot, Monastrell, PinotNoir, Syrah and Tempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra de la SierraNorte de SevillaVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Cabernet Franc, Garnacha, Merlot,Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Syrah andTempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierrade la Sierra Sur de JaénVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrahand Tempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra de TorreperogilVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha, Syrah and Tempranillo.




ANDALUSIAN REDS

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ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINES

D E S I G N A T I O N S O F O R I G I N A N D V I N O S D E L A T I E R R A C O V E R I N G R E D W I N E S I N A N D A L U S I A

Vineyards occupy 40,000 ha (98,842acres) in Andalusia, and over 60% ofthem belong to areas with adesignation of origin. Most of theremainder are labeled “Vinos de laTierra”. Grapevines are grown in all theprovinces. Cádiz is in the lead withalmost 11,000 ha (27,181 acres),followed by Córdoba, with 9,000 ha(22,239 acres). Next come Huelvawith 6,500 ha (16,061 acres), Granadawith just over 5,000 ha (12,355 acres),Málaga with almost 3,000 ha (7,413acres) and Almería with 823 ha (2,033acres).

· Designation of Origin Málaga ySierras de Málagawww.vinomalaga.com

Subzones:AxarquíaThe easternmost part of theprovince, with shallow, slatey soils.Romé is the native variety.

MontesThis is the mountainous area aroundthe city of Málaga.

Zona NorteWhitish soils on hills sloping towardsthe Mediterranean.

Costa OccidentalMainly the plain of Antequera, withdeep, limey, brown soils.

SerraníaAverage altitude of 750 m (2,461 ft).Clay, silty soils with very limeysubsoil.The favorite varieties are Merlot,Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc,Syrah, Merlot, Tempranillo andRomé. Also suitable are Pinot Noir,Colombard, Garnacha and PetitVerdot.

· Designation of Origin Condadode Huelvawww.condadodehuelva.esVarieties: Syrah, Tempranillo,Cabernet Sauvignon, CabernetFranc and Merlot.

· Vino de la Tierra de BailénVarieties: Garnacha, CabernetSauvignon, Molinera andTempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra de CádizVarieties: Tempranillo, Syrah,Cabernet Sauvignon, GarnachaTinta, Monastrell, Merlot, Tintilla deRota, Petit Verdot and CabernetFranc.

· Vino de la Tierra Cumbresdel GuadalfeoVarieties: Garnacha, CabernetSauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,Pinot Noir, Tempranillo and Syrah.

· Vino de la Tierra de CórdobaVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Pinot Noirand Tintilla de Rota.

· Vino de la Tierra del Desiertode AlmeríaVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha, Merlot, Monastrell, Syrahand Tempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra Laderas del GenilVarieties: Garnacha, CabernetSauvignon, Merlot, Perruna, PinotNoir, Syrah and Tempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra de Laujar-AlpujarraVarieties: Garnacha, CabernetSauvignon, Merlot, Monastrell, Syrahand Tempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra Altiplano deSierra NevadaVarieties: Tempranillo, CabernetFranc, Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha, Merlot, Monastrell, PinotNoir and Syrah.

· Vino de la Tierra Ribera del AndaraxVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha, Merlot, Monastrell, PinotNoir, Syrah and Tempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra de la SierraNorte de SevillaVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Cabernet Franc, Garnacha, Merlot,Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Syrah andTempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierrade la Sierra Sur de JaénVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrahand Tempranillo.

· Vino de la Tierra de TorreperogilVarieties: Cabernet Sauvignon,Garnacha, Syrah and Tempranillo.


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winding roads), in Moclinejo, is the

winery where Antonio Muñoz gives

free rein to his inspiration. His

company, Bodega Antonio Muñoz

Cabrera, holds a string of awards. It

makes about 90,000 bottles of

Muscatel and some surprisingly fruity

reds, especially its prize-winning Lagar

de Cabrera, made from Syrah (Grand

Médaille d’Or, at the wine world

championship in Brussels in 2009).

Axarquía is a privileged district. It is

close enough to the sea and civilization

for inhabitants to feel its touch, but

sufficiently far to give the tranquility

that we all need at times. This means

that, unless wine really makes its

presence felt (whether it is Muscatel,

red or white), vines are going to find it

difficult to compete with urban spread.

Let’s hope the vines win. In its search

to constantly offer something new to

its customers, Málaga Virgen (formerly

López Hermanos), the province’s

strongest and most dynamic wine

business, has established an attractive

Syrah vineyard on its Vistahermosa

estate, close to the spectacular Fuente

de Piedra Lagoon. This is an essential

wetland area and a nature reserve, a

magnet for migratory birds, many of

which stop off to feed and nest here.

The bodega’s wine, named Pernales

(after the famous Andalusian bandit

shot in 1907), has all the virtues of a

fruity Syrah.

Spellbinding ArcosArcos de la Frontera offers a fantasticview over half of Andalusia (or at leastthat’s the impression you get). Itincludes Bornos reservoir, surroundedby wheat fields, golf courses, and theTaberner vineyards, and stretches asfar as the high peaks of the Sierra deGrazalema, a dark wavy line along thehorizon. This is where the Paez Morillawinery planted the first CabernetSauvignon, Merlot, Riesling and othervarieties considered “exotic” inAndalusian lands. That must havebeen back in the 1970s and it markedthe start of a new era, although theirwines today might well be considereda touch traditional. A modern style hasbeen adopted by the Huerta de Albaláwinery, owned by Vicente Taberner, apartner in one of the grandest of theJerez establishments, Rey Fernando deCastilla. The winery is encircled by itsvineyards in the style of a Bordeauxchâteau. In it, the wines are cared forby the best technology, in costly

barrels in impeccable cellars, andwatched over by guardian angel andoenologist Milagros Viñegra. She isalso responsible for 80 ha (197 acres)of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrahand Tintilla de Rota (the latter stakinga claim for Spanish varieties). Theseare fleshy, aromatic wines, with a veryup-to-date finish, that are frequentlyawarded top marks by wine writers. Asmight be expected, the wineries in thenearby domain of Jerez are also tryingtheir hand with red wines. Close toArcos, in the village of Gibalbín, thefamous Barbadillo wineries of Sanlúcarare producing a modern Syrah redcalled Gibalbín at a very competitiveprice. One of the most active of theJerez companies, González Byass, isshowing great interest in this area. Onone of the limiest parts of Arcos it hasplanted 45 ha (111 acres) under vine,with the ever-present varieties:Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and,especially, Syrah. The wine has beenbaptized with the name of the winery,Finca Moncloa, and is showing greatpromise.

The search for redin Condadode HuelvaAugust 2009 was very hot in Condadode Huelva. Half way through themonth, practically all the red winevineyards had already been harvested.


In some cases, primary fermentationwas complete, and malolacticfermentation was about to start. Thedetermination to make red wine in adistrict that for centuries had onlybeen producing white is remarkable,especially considering the difficultiesof the climate and altitude at 30-100 m(98-328 ft) above sea level. But in justa few years, the area growing redvarieties has risen from zero to about150 ha (370 acres). The modelfollowed is the standard one for abudding wine-producing district, withall the most famed varieties: CabernetSauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,Tempranillo and, above all, Syrah, inwhich great hopes are being placed bysouthern Spain’s winemakers. Thisyear, for the first time, the red winesproduced within the DO Condado deHuelva will no longer have to bear theambiguous label “Vino de la Tierra” orthe uninspiring and ratherdisconcerting “Vino de Mesa”. Theynow receive explicit recognition in theregulations and are thus entitled to

bear the back label of the Condado deHuelva Regulatory Council. Thewineries that are most enthusiasticabout what they call “wines with color”are the cooperative Nuestra Señora delSocorro in Rociana, and Vinícola delCondado in Rociana and Bollullos Pardel Condado, the location of the DOCondado de Huelva RegulatoryCouncil, and formerly a stop-off on theroad between Huelva and Seville.

Almería, the greatunknownTourists driving fast through Almeríaon the A-7 on their way to one of itsfamous beaches may be overwhelmedby the desolation of the landscape. Butthose who take their time are oftenfascinated by the wide open spaces,with their hallucinatory strangeness,and the surprises that appear at everybend. The sun’s changing positionswork wonders on the colors of theearth, and the diversity of thelandscapes leads us to feel we are

treading some unknown planet. Butthat is just half the story. Inland,driving towards the impressive peaksof Sierra Nevada, a wide range ofemotions awaits—colors, aromas andflavors—not to mention oenologicalsurprises.Láujar de Andarax perhaps has morewineries than any other town in theprovince. A few years ago, RicardoCantera, who defines himself as anItalo-Riojano, set up a winery calledTaller de Baco (Bacchus’ workshop)with José Ramón Martínez, anelectronics engineer and wine lover.They use such originalmicrovinification methods, inparticular the Ganimede method (amodern tank with a complicatedfermentation system), that it takes ahighly-experienced taster to know theycome from vineyards in the southeastof Spain. Three ranges of differentquality are produced, but top-of-the-class is Diluvio (Spanish for flood, acontradictory choice for a provincethat has more than 3,000 hours of

ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINES



thing bubble away in stock until the

rice is cooked.

Cava of course lends itself not only to

Spanish cuisine, but also to

international fare. With producers

looking to the expanding Asian

market, what better than the sparkling

wine to accompany fragrant Eastern

cuisine. Nelson Chow, president of the

Hong Kong Association of Sommeliers,

suggests quaffing down Cava with the

ubiquitous dim sum, a delicious

assortment of steamed or fried

dumplings containing seafood, meat or

vegetables—an Asian equivalent to

Spanish tapas.

Juvé y Camps, the third biggest Cava

producer after Codorníu and

Freixenet, also suggests trying its

produce with more exotic fare. The

CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

Before accompanying meals orsnacks with Cava, it's worth notingthe optimum conditions for drinking it.It should be served at somewherebetween 5 and 7ºC (44 and 46ºF), notfreezing cold yet not too warm either.Ideally, bottles should be kept in thefridge for around 4 hours before beingconsumed. Failing that, submersion inan ice bucket for around 15 to 30minutes should do the trick.Once uncorked, Cava should beserved in flute glasses with long stemsfor two reasons. Firstly, so that thewine doesn't become warm from thehand, ensuring a constanttemperature in the glass, andsecondly, to make sure there are also

plenty of bubbles due to theflute's smaller surface area. Thesign of a great Cava is onewhere the bubbles are smalland form a constant line risingfrom the bottom of the glassupwards. A note of warning forthe ladies though: it isunadvisable to wear lipstickwhen drinking Cava, as the anti-foaming agents present in somebrands can kill off the bubbles.

S E R V I N G C A V A

established wine-producing areas inSpain, Valencia (eastern coast) is notusually an area associated with Cava,but over the past few years it has cometo the fore with the recentestablishment of Dominio de la Vegawinery (Spain Gourmetour No. 77). Itproduces two delightful brut naturewith a hint of Chardonnay; theseductive clean, natural and aromatictones of the bodega’s award-winningbrut reserva have seen it take home theprize for Spain’s best Cava at theannual Enoforum wine fair in Madridon more than one occasion.And what better to accompany thewinery’s produce than the localspeciality par excellence—the much-famed paella? The flavorsome ricebeautifully complements Cava’sfreshness on the palate and thewonderful versatility of paella lendsitself to an array of ingredients. For adelicious and simple accompanimentto Cava try sautéing some shrimp,chicken, onions, tomatoes and garlicin olive oil in a large pan, ideally apaellera (the special shallow polishedsteel pan used for cooking paellawhich is traditionally round with twohandles and which gives its name tothe dish). Then add two fingers depthof arroz bomba (short-grain rice) or asimilar type of rice and, of course, apinch of saffron, and let the whole

WINES

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winding roads), in Moclinejo, is the

winery where Antonio Muñoz gives

free rein to his inspiration. His

company, Bodega Antonio Muñoz

Cabrera, holds a string of awards. It

makes about 90,000 bottles of

Muscatel and some surprisingly fruity

reds, especially its prize-winning Lagar

de Cabrera, made from Syrah (Grand

Médaille d’Or, at the wine world

championship in Brussels in 2009).

Axarquía is a privileged district. It is

close enough to the sea and civilization

for inhabitants to feel its touch, but

sufficiently far to give the tranquility

that we all need at times. This means

that, unless wine really makes its

presence felt (whether it is Muscatel,

red or white), vines are going to find it

difficult to compete with urban spread.

Let’s hope the vines win. In its search

to constantly offer something new to

its customers, Málaga Virgen (formerly

López Hermanos), the province’s

strongest and most dynamic wine

business, has established an attractive

Syrah vineyard on its Vistahermosa

estate, close to the spectacular Fuente

de Piedra Lagoon. This is an essential

wetland area and a nature reserve, a

magnet for migratory birds, many of

which stop off to feed and nest here.

The bodega’s wine, named Pernales

(after the famous Andalusian bandit

shot in 1907), has all the virtues of a

fruity Syrah.

Spellbinding ArcosArcos de la Frontera offers a fantasticview over half of Andalusia (or at leastthat’s the impression you get). Itincludes Bornos reservoir, surroundedby wheat fields, golf courses, and theTaberner vineyards, and stretches asfar as the high peaks of the Sierra deGrazalema, a dark wavy line along thehorizon. This is where the Paez Morillawinery planted the first CabernetSauvignon, Merlot, Riesling and othervarieties considered “exotic” inAndalusian lands. That must havebeen back in the 1970s and it markedthe start of a new era, although theirwines today might well be considereda touch traditional. A modern style hasbeen adopted by the Huerta de Albaláwinery, owned by Vicente Taberner, apartner in one of the grandest of theJerez establishments, Rey Fernando deCastilla. The winery is encircled by itsvineyards in the style of a Bordeauxchâteau. In it, the wines are cared forby the best technology, in costly

barrels in impeccable cellars, andwatched over by guardian angel andoenologist Milagros Viñegra. She isalso responsible for 80 ha (197 acres)of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrahand Tintilla de Rota (the latter stakinga claim for Spanish varieties). Theseare fleshy, aromatic wines, with a veryup-to-date finish, that are frequentlyawarded top marks by wine writers. Asmight be expected, the wineries in thenearby domain of Jerez are also tryingtheir hand with red wines. Close toArcos, in the village of Gibalbín, thefamous Barbadillo wineries of Sanlúcarare producing a modern Syrah redcalled Gibalbín at a very competitiveprice. One of the most active of theJerez companies, González Byass, isshowing great interest in this area. Onone of the limiest parts of Arcos it hasplanted 45 ha (111 acres) under vine,with the ever-present varieties:Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and,especially, Syrah. The wine has beenbaptized with the name of the winery,Finca Moncloa, and is showing greatpromise.

The search for redin Condadode HuelvaAugust 2009 was very hot in Condadode Huelva. Half way through themonth, practically all the red winevineyards had already been harvested.


In some cases, primary fermentationwas complete, and malolacticfermentation was about to start. Thedetermination to make red wine in adistrict that for centuries had onlybeen producing white is remarkable,especially considering the difficultiesof the climate and altitude at 30-100 m(98-328 ft) above sea level. But in justa few years, the area growing redvarieties has risen from zero to about150 ha (370 acres). The modelfollowed is the standard one for abudding wine-producing district, withall the most famed varieties: CabernetSauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,Tempranillo and, above all, Syrah, inwhich great hopes are being placed bysouthern Spain’s winemakers. Thisyear, for the first time, the red winesproduced within the DO Condado deHuelva will no longer have to bear theambiguous label “Vino de la Tierra” orthe uninspiring and ratherdisconcerting “Vino de Mesa”. Theynow receive explicit recognition in theregulations and are thus entitled to

bear the back label of the Condado deHuelva Regulatory Council. Thewineries that are most enthusiasticabout what they call “wines with color”are the cooperative Nuestra Señora delSocorro in Rociana, and Vinícola delCondado in Rociana and Bollullos Pardel Condado, the location of the DOCondado de Huelva RegulatoryCouncil, and formerly a stop-off on theroad between Huelva and Seville.

Almería, the greatunknownTourists driving fast through Almeríaon the A-7 on their way to one of itsfamous beaches may be overwhelmedby the desolation of the landscape. Butthose who take their time are oftenfascinated by the wide open spaces,with their hallucinatory strangeness,and the surprises that appear at everybend. The sun’s changing positionswork wonders on the colors of theearth, and the diversity of thelandscapes leads us to feel we are

treading some unknown planet. Butthat is just half the story. Inland,driving towards the impressive peaksof Sierra Nevada, a wide range ofemotions awaits—colors, aromas andflavors—not to mention oenologicalsurprises.Láujar de Andarax perhaps has morewineries than any other town in theprovince. A few years ago, RicardoCantera, who defines himself as anItalo-Riojano, set up a winery calledTaller de Baco (Bacchus’ workshop)with José Ramón Martínez, anelectronics engineer and wine lover.They use such originalmicrovinification methods, inparticular the Ganimede method (amodern tank with a complicatedfermentation system), that it takes ahighly-experienced taster to know theycome from vineyards in the southeastof Spain. Three ranges of differentquality are produced, but top-of-the-class is Diluvio (Spanish for flood, acontradictory choice for a provincethat has more than 3,000 hours of

ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINES


y carnes en conserva, así comoel foie y el queso manchego (SpainGourmetour, n.º 18) mejoran sussabores si se acompañan con uncava. Las ensaladas templadas y elsushi son ideales para bañar con cava,aunque siempre hay que tenercuidado con el vinagre que se use,como ocurre con cualquier vino.Sin embargo, el cava resulta bientambién con platos más consistentes,como carnes rojas o caza, donde lasburbujas sirven de agente “limpiador”o neutralizador de las grasas de lacarne y refrescan así el aliento. Enlo que se refiere a los postres, enEspaña, sobre todo durante lasfestividades, es habitual consumirlocomo un vino dulce. Así, los semisecos, más dulzones, van muybien para bajar el turrón o lasdelicias de mazapán.Es importante señalar que muchossumilleres recomiendan no tomarsemi secos al final de una comidapara acompañar un dulce y aseguranque este tipo de cavas van muybien como aperitivo. Hoy en día seconsidera que merece la pena probarun brut o un brut nature con unpostre como un sorbete, un arroz conleche o manzana asada, por ejemplo.

GastronomíacatalanaVolvamos a Cataluña, donde aún nosquedan algunas armonizaciones pordescubrir. La bodega Alta Alella, delpueblo de Tiana, elabora un cava deterroir de primera calidad, bajo laetiqueta Privat. Esta bodega,constituida en el decenio de 1990 porla familia Pujol-Busquets, comenzó aproducir sus primeros vinos en 2001y exporta cerca de 40.000 botellas(un 15% del total de la producción) adiversas partes del mundo. El procesode elaboración vinícola es de tipoecológico, y la familia ha introducidovariedades de vid como la chardonnayen su producción; igualmente, hanretomado la uva negra mataró, queprácticamente había desaparecidoa consecuencia de la filoxera.Recomiendan degustar su vino conuna variedad de platos tradicionales,así como aventurarse a terrenos másinnovadores. Su Privat Opus, un brutnature Gran Reserva que se elaborapartiendo de una uva Chardonnayy se deja envejecer al menos 30 meses,iría bien con el plato típico de losPirineos Trinxat de la Cerdanya, unguiso que se elabora con puré de

patatas, col, panceta y ajo.Y, ¿hay acaso algo más propio deCataluña que su pa amb tomàquet?Este sencillo tentempié de pan (a vecestostado) con ajo y tomate bien frotadoscontra la miga, y aderezados con aceitede oliva y sal se deja acompañarperfectamente por un jamón ibérico oun plato de escalivada (un salteadocatalán de verduras, similar al pisto)para mezclarse después con los aromasintensos y persistentes de unChardonnay brut nature Reserva deAlta Alella.El cava no falta nunca en las calçotadas(Spain Gourmetour, n.º 55; en versióninglesa), una celebración gastronómicaque tiene lugar en primavera y queconsiste en que la gente se reúne en lascalles para degustar los calçots, un tipode cebolleta. Los calçots se pasan porla parrilla, en fuegos abiertos similaresa barbacoas, y se sumergen después ensalsa romesco, elaborada conalmendras o avellanas molidas, ajo,aceite de oliva y pimientos rojos secos.El festín no estaría completo si no seregara con un buen cava local.La bodega de Gramona, en SantSadurní d'Anoia, destaca desde hacetiempo por la elaboración de cavas conun periodo de envejecimiento que es

el más prolongado del mercado. Desdeaquí se nos recomienda degustar susvinos con todo tipo de platos catalanesy mediterráneos en general. Estaempresa, que lleva más de 125 añosdedicada a la producción de vinos decalidad, nació de la unión de JoséGramona, que provenía de una familiaque cultivaba la vid y tenía un tallerde carpintería, y Esperanza Batlle,heredera de la bodega Celler Batlle.Desde entonces, se puede decirque esta bodega sigue siendo unaempresa familiar, con una visiónintencionadamente tradicional delcava: siguen usando un tapón decorcho histórico en el envejecimiento,cuando los demás fabricantes se hanpasado al tapón corona, por ejemplo.Gramona Imperial es un cava elegante,de 3 a 4 años, que presenta unperfume transparente de manzanas,galleta, especias, flores y un sugerentearoma marino. Acompañaperfectamente a frutos secos y frutaspasas, fruta fresca y platos ligeros,como el rape o una delicada ensaladade langostinos y cigala.Por otra parte, los tonos tostados de sumagnífico y galardonado Gramona IIILustros, que se vende bajo pedido y esuno de los nature de mayor edad del

mercado, es más apropiado para platosmás consistentes. La carne de venadoen una salsa de castañas asadas,huevos escalfados con butifarra blanca(Spain Gourmetour, n.º 21) y ralladurasde trufa negra son acompañamientosideales para este cava. Las chuletas decordero o la pularda rellena de setas ytrufas son otras sugerencias de platosque pueden ir perfectamente de lamano con la joya de Gramona, queha sido recientemente elegida uno delos 10 primeros vinos de España porla prestigiosa revista Wine Enthusiast(número de septiembre de 2009).

Productosnacionales einternacionalesAdemás de los productos locales,no está de más fijarse en el resto delterritorio español para encontrarnuevas armonizaciones ideales parael cava. En La Rioja, una zona famosapor sus tintos, Jorge Muga Palacínde Bodegas Muga me cuenta que enalgunos momentos de la historia en laregión se cultivaba más uva blanca quenegra. La producción de cava se limitaactualmente a las zonas altas de la

región, donde las vides maduran máslentamente y resulta más difícilelaborar vinos tranquilos. Mugaelabora un delicioso brut naturelos años en los que el frío no permiteque la uva madure completamente.Jorge recomienda acompañar su cavacon las sabrosas frutas y verduras de laRibera del Ebro, una zona que abarcaparte de Navarra, La Rioja y Aragón,siguiendo el curso del río Ebro, y quese conoce como “la huerta de España”.Las combinaciones más osadas, comolos espárragos blancos de la zona, muyapreciados, o una ensalada de tomatemaduro, son ideales para paladear conel cava. También me cuenta que esteespumoso armoniza bien con lasperas al vino y otras delicias culinariasespañolas como las torrijas, el pastelruso o los hojaldres.Si salimos de las regiones vitivinícolasmás consolidadas de España, enValencia (este de España) no solíaencontrarse cava, pero desde haceunos años la Comunidad de Valenciaha ganado relevancia gracias a labodega Dominio de la Vega (SpainGourmetour, n.º 21). La bodega elaborados brut nature sublimes, con untoque de chardonnay. Gracias a lostonos seductores, transparentes,

05 CAVA AF_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 01/12/09 22:08 Página 4404 ANDALUCIA AF.qxd 18/11/09 15:05 Página 36

salchichón (a type of sausage; SpainGourmetour No. 77) as well as foie orManchego cheese (Spain GourmetourNo. 74) have their flavors enhancedwith the wine. Warm salads and sushiare also great to eat with Cava,although, as with any wine, oneshould be careful with the vinegar.Cava also works well with heaviermeals such as red meat or game, wherethe bubbles act as an agent to “cleanup” or neutralize the fats present in themeat, leaving one’s mouth refreshed.And as for desserts, in Spain,particularly during the festive season,it is habitually drunk as a puddingwine, the sweeter semi-secos washingdown turrón (a type of nougat madewith almonds and honey) andmarzipan delicacies.It is worth noting here that manysommeliers advise against drinkingsemi-secos at the end of meals toaccompany sweets, noting that thesesweeter wines work better as aperitifs.It is now considered worthwhile tryinga brut or a brut nature with a finalcourse such as sorbet, rice pudding orbaked apple for example.

Catalan cuisineBut back to Catalonia, where we haveyet to fully discover some of thedelightful matches available. The AltaAlella winery in the village of Tianaproduces a high level terroir Cavaunder the Privat label. Set up in the‘90s by the Pujol-Busquets family, thebodega started producing its firstwines in 2001, and they export around40,000 bottles (15% of totalproduction) across the globe. Theirwinemaking process is organic and thefamily has introduced internationalgrape varieties such as Chardonnayinto production, as well as re-introducing the Mataró red grape,which nearly died out because ofphylloxera.They recommend trying their productwith a range of traditional dishes aswell as adventuring into moreinnovative fare. Their Privat Opus, aBrut Nature Gran Reserva elaboratedusing Chardonnay grapes and aged fora minimum of 30 months, would gowell with the typical Pyrenees dishtrinxat de la Cerdanya, a hearty mash of

CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

WINES

CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

WINES

boiled potatoes and cabbage, re-friedin a heavy pan and garnished withlard.And what could be morequintessentially Catalan than pa ambtomàquet? A simple snack of bread(optionally toasted) with tomato andgarlic rubbed over it and seasonedwith olive oil and salt. Tryaccompanying it with Ibérico ham orescalivada (a typical Catalan mix ofroast vegetables similar to ratatouille)and you have the perfect match for thepersistent and intense aromas of AltaAlella’s Chardonnay Brut NatureReserva.Cava is also always on the menu at thecalçotada (Spain Gourmetour No. 55), apopular gastronomical event at thestart of spring, where locals gettogether to eat calçots (a type of springonion) en masse. The calçots aregrilled on open fires similar tobarbeques and then dipped in romescosauce (typically made from groundalmonds or hazelnuts, garlic, olive oiland small, dried red peppers). Thefeast just wouldn’t be completewithout washing the whole thing

down with some local Cava.At Gramona in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, abodega that has stood out over manyyears for making Cavas with some ofthe longest aging on the market, theyrecommend trying their wines with awide range of cuisine, drawing fromCatalonia and the Mediterranean as awhole. A producer of fine wines formore than 125 years, the companycame about due to the union of JoséGramona, whose family grew grapesand ran a carpentry workshop, andEsperanza Batlle, heiress to the CellerBatlle winery. It remains very much afamily firm and is committedlytraditional in its approach to Cavas: forexample, they still use a cork stopperduring aging, while all others havegone over to the crown cap system.Gramona Imperial is an elegant Cavaaged between three to four years,which offers a transparent perfume ofapple, biscuits, spices, flowers and asuggestive sea breeze. It canaccompany dried fruit and nuts, freshfruit, or light dishes such as monkfishor a delicate langoustine and crayfishsalad.

Meanwhile, the toasted tones of theirmagnificent award-winning GramonaIII Lustros—which is sold in advanceand is one of the longest-aged natureon the market—is suited to richerfood. Venison in a roast chestnutsauce, poached eggs with potato foamor butifarra blanca (a type of Catalansausage, Spain Gourmetour No. 77) andblack truffle shavings make perfectaccompaniments. Lamb chops orpoularde (hen) stuffed with mushroomsand truffles are further ideas toaccompany Gramona’s jewel in thecrown, which has recently beenchosen as one of Spain’s top 10 winesby the prestigious American Wine

Enthusiast magazine (September 2009issue).

National andinternational fareIn addition to local produce, it is wellworth looking outside the region tofind some great Cava matches in therest of Spanish cuisine too. In La Rioja,a region famous for red wine, Jorge

Muga Palacín at Bodegas Muga tells methat in certain moments in history, thearea was producing more white grapesthan red ones. Cava production iscurrently limited to the higher land inthe region, where the grapes matureless easily, making still wines moredifficult to produce. Muga makes adelightful brut nature in the yearswhen cold spells prevent the grapefrom maturing to its full extent.Jorge recommends accompanying hisCava with the delicious fruit andvegetables of the Ribera del Ebro, theland situated alongside the banks ofthe Ebro River covering parts ofNavarre, La Rioja and Aragón alsoknow as la huerta de España (thegarden of Spain). “Daring”combinations such as the much-prizedlocal white asparagus or a ripe tomatosalad go beautifully with Cava. He alsotells me his Cava goes well withpoached pears in wine or with othertypically Spanish sweet treats such astorrijas (sweet milk-soaked breadfritters), pastel ruso (almond-basedcake) and hojaldres (puff pastries).Moving outside some of the more



though it has been trying out differentvarieties for many years now. TheRobles winery (an institution in theworld of fortified wines) has broughtout a red called Piedra Luenga, with theadded value of an organic label. In theSierra de Montilla, José Miguel Márquezof Bodegas Marenas, makes a fewthousand bottles meeting the strictest oforganic requirements. It is no surprisethat so many winemakers here chooseorganic methods considering Cordoba’sgreat potential.Andalusia is a generous land, as are itswines. Its wines have brought tears ofpleasure to the eyes of both real peopleand fictitious characters. Its variedlandscapes undoubtedly have room forred wines, the aim being to place themon a par with the famed Andalusianfortified wines.

Bartolomé Sánchez is a food and winewriter. He is the Director of Opus Wine(which publishes Vinum España andMiVino magazines).

ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINES


sunshine a year and the fewest cloudydays in Spain). Another winery in thesame area is Selección de Vinos deFondón (an interesting projectincluding a rural hotel and arestaurant), which surprises with itsmodern-style reds. The suggestivelabel on one of them, Las Tetas de laSacristana (the Sacristan’s Tits), wastaken from a couple of even-sized hillsin a nearby vineyard.In Almería, too, reds are spreadingfast. In Alcolea, Isabel López andAgustín Peinado inherited and haveupdated a winery, its vineyards and, ofcourse, its wines. They produce asmuch as 120,000 bottles of very fruityreds (including a delicious carbonicmaceration wine) under the brandname Iniza (the name of the estate,located in the designation Vinos de laTierra de Laujar-Alpujarra).

The Sierra MorenaredAs we trace the route of the new reds,we reach Seville, though it producesless than 1% of the Andalusian reds.Obviously the most appropriate terrainsare the heights of the Sierra Norte, theextension of the Sierra Morena. Thename Cazalla de la Sierra is known allover Spain for the local, aniseed-flavored eau-de-vie, but the town hasactually been producing wine since the15th century. Not surprisingly, its climateis ideal, with poor, limey or slatey soil,an altitude of 700 m (2,297 ft) andrainfall between 600 and 1,000 l per sqm (23.6 and 39.3 in). Its mostrepresentative winery today is Coloniasde Galeón, and the dream of its owners,Elena Viguera and Julián Navarro, is tomake their red wines well known. The

grapes they use for the purpose are

Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot

Noir and Tempranillo. They have had a

number of triumphs in recent years, but

the connoisseur remembers the special

pleasure given by their very regular,

carbonic maceration red and their star

product, Silente, a wine with an

excellent structure. In nearby

Constantina, wine enthusiast Óscar

Zapke and his Riojan wife Mónica have

about 7 ha (17 acres) under red

varieties, especially Tempranillo, with

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Córdoba has not followed the red flame

like the other Andalusian provinces,

ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINES


Ricardo Cantera, Taller de Baco, Laujar de Andarax, Almería.

Portugal

Mediterranean SeaAtlanticOcean

31 mi

1

23

4

56

789

1011

12

1. VT Sierra Norte de Sevilla2. VT Córdoba3. VT Bailén4. VT Torreperogil5. VT Sierra Sur de Jaén6. VT Altiplano de Sierra Nevada7. VT Desierto de Almería8. VT Ribera del Andarax9. VT Laujar-Alpujarra

10. VT Cumbres del Guadalfeo11. VT Laderas del Genil12. VT Cádiz

Vinos de la Tierra

DO Condado de HuelvaDO Málaga y Sierras de Málaga

Extremadura

Castile-La Mancha

Murcia

Morocco

Strait of Gibraltar

SierraNevadaSierra de

Grazalema

SierraNorte Sierra de

MontillaS i e r r a M o r e n a

Sierra deGádor

Seville

Cádiz

Huelva

Málaga

Córdoba

Granada

Jaén

Almería

Ceuta

Melilla



though it has been trying out differentvarieties for many years now. TheRobles winery (an institution in theworld of fortified wines) has broughtout a red called Piedra Luenga, with theadded value of an organic label. In theSierra de Montilla, José Miguel Márquezof Bodegas Marenas, makes a fewthousand bottles meeting the strictest oforganic requirements. It is no surprisethat so many winemakers here chooseorganic methods considering Cordoba’sgreat potential.Andalusia is a generous land, as are itswines. Its wines have brought tears ofpleasure to the eyes of both real peopleand fictitious characters. Its variedlandscapes undoubtedly have room forred wines, the aim being to place themon a par with the famed Andalusianfortified wines.

Bartolomé Sánchez is a food and winewriter. He is the Director of Opus Wine(which publishes Vinum España andMiVino magazines).

ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINES


sunshine a year and the fewest cloudydays in Spain). Another winery in thesame area is Selección de Vinos deFondón (an interesting projectincluding a rural hotel and arestaurant), which surprises with itsmodern-style reds. The suggestivelabel on one of them, Las Tetas de laSacristana (the Sacristan’s Tits), wastaken from a couple of even-sized hillsin a nearby vineyard.In Almería, too, reds are spreadingfast. In Alcolea, Isabel López andAgustín Peinado inherited and haveupdated a winery, its vineyards and, ofcourse, its wines. They produce asmuch as 120,000 bottles of very fruityreds (including a delicious carbonicmaceration wine) under the brandname Iniza (the name of the estate,located in the designation Vinos de laTierra de Laujar-Alpujarra).

The Sierra MorenaredAs we trace the route of the new reds,we reach Seville, though it producesless than 1% of the Andalusian reds.Obviously the most appropriate terrainsare the heights of the Sierra Norte, theextension of the Sierra Morena. Thename Cazalla de la Sierra is known allover Spain for the local, aniseed-flavored eau-de-vie, but the town hasactually been producing wine since the15th century. Not surprisingly, its climateis ideal, with poor, limey or slatey soil,an altitude of 700 m (2,297 ft) andrainfall between 600 and 1,000 l per sqm (23.6 and 39.3 in). Its mostrepresentative winery today is Coloniasde Galeón, and the dream of its owners,Elena Viguera and Julián Navarro, is tomake their red wines well known. The

grapes they use for the purpose are

Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot

Noir and Tempranillo. They have had a

number of triumphs in recent years, but

the connoisseur remembers the special

pleasure given by their very regular,

carbonic maceration red and their star

product, Silente, a wine with an

excellent structure. In nearby

Constantina, wine enthusiast Óscar

Zapke and his Riojan wife Mónica have

about 7 ha (17 acres) under red

varieties, especially Tempranillo, with

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Córdoba has not followed the red flame

like the other Andalusian provinces,

ANDALUSIAN REDS

WINES


Ricardo Cantera, Taller de Baco, Laujar de Andarax, Almería.

Portugal

Mediterranean SeaAtlanticOcean

31 mi

1

23

4

56

789

1011

12

1. VT Sierra Norte de Sevilla2. VT Córdoba3. VT Bailén4. VT Torreperogil5. VT Sierra Sur de Jaén6. VT Altiplano de Sierra Nevada7. VT Desierto de Almería8. VT Ribera del Andarax9. VT Laujar-Alpujarra

10. VT Cumbres del Guadalfeo11. VT Laderas del Genil12. VT Cádiz

Vinos de la Tierra

DO Condado de HuelvaDO Málaga y Sierras de Málaga

Extremadura

Castile-La Mancha

Murcia

Morocco

Strait of Gibraltar

SierraNevadaSierra de

Grazalema

SierraNorte Sierra de

MontillaS i e r r a M o r e n a

Sierra deGádor

Seville

Cádiz

Huelva

Málaga

Córdoba

Granada

Jaén

Almería

Ceuta

Melilla


05 CAVA AF.qxd 18/11/09 08:53 Página 38

Sparkling wine has for years been associated with popping corks, wild celebrations

and the high life, but in the Catalan wine-producing region of Penedès (northeast

Spain), the preferred daily beverage at mealtimes or as a simple aperitif to accompany

tapas is always the local produce. With the area now producing sparkling wines of

higher caliber than ever before, and with export sales of around 120 million bottles a

year, Cava is not just the wine of choice for the inhabitants of Catalonia, it is also a

delight to be enjoyed by those looking to bring a little everyday effervescence to their

table, all the world over.

CavaandGastronomy

TextIan Cowley/©ICEX

PhotosToya Legido/©ICEX

SPARKLING

Inspiration



Sparkling wine has for years been associated with popping corks, wild celebrations

and the high life, but in the Catalan wine-producing region of Penedès (northeast

Spain), the preferred daily beverage at mealtimes or as a simple aperitif to accompany

tapas is always the local produce. With the area now producing sparkling wines of

higher caliber than ever before, and with export sales of around 120 million bottles a

year, Cava is not just the wine of choice for the inhabitants of Catalonia, it is also a

delight to be enjoyed by those looking to bring a little everyday effervescence to their

table, all the world over.

CavaandGastronomy

TextIan Cowley/©ICEX

PhotosToya Legido/©ICEX

SPARKLING

Inspiration




The history of Cava is firmly rooted inthe distinctly Mediterranean Penedèsregion: an area of rolling hills andsharp escarpments interspersed withvineyards, pine copses and dotted withmasias, the Catalan word whichencompasses anything fromramshackle farmhouses to splendidcountry mansions looking out overvast wine estates. Although otherregions such as Aragón, Castile-Leon,Extremadura, La Rioja, the BasqueCountry, Navarre and Valenciaproduce Cava, a whopping 95% ofproduction comes out of some 1,500sq km (371 acres) of these primeCatalan vineyards.This pleasant land, situated south ofBarcelona, is also home to wonderfulfresh produce and great traditionalCatalan cuisine. Delicacies such as patomudo del Penedès (a deliciously leanduck meat), xató (a frizzy endive,salted cod and anchovy salad which isaccompanied by a ground almond andhazelnut dressing) and cocas deVilafranca (a type of sweet doughbaked and dusted with sugar) are alldishes which beautifully complementthe area’s local vintage. The region’stypical “snack” foods also deserve aspecial mention, specifically, dried fruitand nuts such as figs, prunes, roastedalmonds and pine nuts, and curedpork sausage known as fuet (SpainGourmetour No. 77) by the locals.

A bit of historyBut before investigating Cava’s culinarycombinations in more detail, first wemust look at the reasons why thisregion has become so prominent in the

production of Cava. Historically, oneman—Josep Raventós (1825-1885) ofthe Codorníu winery (SpainGourmetour No. 70)—is responsiblefor the wine’s geographicalconcentration. Having studiedChampagne production in France, hedecided to try the same thing at home,using local varieties of grape. By meansof the champenoise, or the “traditionalmethod”, which involves a secondfermentation in the bottle, Josepelaborated his first wines in 1872,which became known locally aschampaña, or xampany in Catalan.A further push towards production ofCava in the area came when theregion’s vineyards were devastated bythe phylloxera plague (1888-1890).This led to the predominantly redvines being largely replaced by vinesproducing white grapes. Most notablythree autochthonous varieties wereused in the production of these firstCavas: Macabeo, Parellada and

Xarel·lo, and they remain highlyimportant to this day despite newervarieties such as Chardonnay nowbeing introduced.The fizzy beverage soon becamepopular at court with Spanish royalty,and during the Swinging Twenties, thelarger bodegas, already consolidatedwithin Spain, began to export theirproduct abroad. Sales and productionof the sparkling wine really took off inthe ‘60s though, and in the decadesthat followed Cava arrived big time onan international scale.It wasn’t until the end of the 20th

century that the name Cava becamesynonymous with the wine, however.Caves and cellars were used in theearly days of production for thepreservation or aging of wine, and thisis where the word “Cava” comes from.In 1972, the Consejo Regulador deVinos Espumosos (Regulatory Councilof Sparkling Wines) officially launchedthe brand name “Cava”, at the sametime as France took measures toprotect its Champagne brand.Following the entry of Spain into thethen EEC in 1986, the ProtectedGeographic Indication (PGI) orDesignation of Origin (DO) status wasgranted, with Cava’s DO being uniquein Spain in the sense that eightspecified regions are authorized forproduction. But of theseaforementioned regions it is Penedèsthat dominates the market, and anastonishing 75% of total Cavaproduction comes out of the smalltown of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia,population 12,000 and home to Cavagiants Freixenet (Spain Gourmetour No.73) and Codorníu.





The history of Cava is firmly rooted inthe distinctly Mediterranean Penedèsregion: an area of rolling hills andsharp escarpments interspersed withvineyards, pine copses and dotted withmasias, the Catalan word whichencompasses anything fromramshackle farmhouses to splendidcountry mansions looking out overvast wine estates. Although otherregions such as Aragón, Castile-Leon,Extremadura, La Rioja, the BasqueCountry, Navarre and Valenciaproduce Cava, a whopping 95% ofproduction comes out of some 1,500sq km (371 acres) of these primeCatalan vineyards.This pleasant land, situated south ofBarcelona, is also home to wonderfulfresh produce and great traditionalCatalan cuisine. Delicacies such as patomudo del Penedès (a deliciously leanduck meat), xató (a frizzy endive,salted cod and anchovy salad which isaccompanied by a ground almond andhazelnut dressing) and cocas deVilafranca (a type of sweet doughbaked and dusted with sugar) are alldishes which beautifully complementthe area’s local vintage. The region’stypical “snack” foods also deserve aspecial mention, specifically, dried fruitand nuts such as figs, prunes, roastedalmonds and pine nuts, and curedpork sausage known as fuet (SpainGourmetour No. 77) by the locals.

A bit of historyBut before investigating Cava’s culinarycombinations in more detail, first wemust look at the reasons why thisregion has become so prominent in the

production of Cava. Historically, oneman—Josep Raventós (1825-1885) ofthe Codorníu winery (SpainGourmetour No. 70)—is responsiblefor the wine’s geographicalconcentration. Having studiedChampagne production in France, hedecided to try the same thing at home,using local varieties of grape. By meansof the champenoise, or the “traditionalmethod”, which involves a secondfermentation in the bottle, Josepelaborated his first wines in 1872,which became known locally aschampaña, or xampany in Catalan.A further push towards production ofCava in the area came when theregion’s vineyards were devastated bythe phylloxera plague (1888-1890).This led to the predominantly redvines being largely replaced by vinesproducing white grapes. Most notablythree autochthonous varieties wereused in the production of these firstCavas: Macabeo, Parellada and

Xarel·lo, and they remain highlyimportant to this day despite newervarieties such as Chardonnay nowbeing introduced.The fizzy beverage soon becamepopular at court with Spanish royalty,and during the Swinging Twenties, thelarger bodegas, already consolidatedwithin Spain, began to export theirproduct abroad. Sales and productionof the sparkling wine really took off inthe ‘60s though, and in the decadesthat followed Cava arrived big time onan international scale.It wasn’t until the end of the 20th

century that the name Cava becamesynonymous with the wine, however.Caves and cellars were used in theearly days of production for thepreservation or aging of wine, and thisis where the word “Cava” comes from.In 1972, the Consejo Regulador deVinos Espumosos (Regulatory Councilof Sparkling Wines) officially launchedthe brand name “Cava”, at the sametime as France took measures toprotect its Champagne brand.Following the entry of Spain into thethen EEC in 1986, the ProtectedGeographic Indication (PGI) orDesignation of Origin (DO) status wasgranted, with Cava’s DO being uniquein Spain in the sense that eightspecified regions are authorized forproduction. But of theseaforementioned regions it is Penedèsthat dominates the market, and anastonishing 75% of total Cavaproduction comes out of the smalltown of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia,population 12,000 and home to Cavagiants Freixenet (Spain Gourmetour No.73) and Codorníu.




harvested grapes grown in their ownvineyards, the company makes top-of-the-range Cavas. And Ernestina’sfamily isn’t the only branch of theTorelló clan making top-quality Cava.The produce of Agustí Torelló Mata,her cousin, has been making waves inthe wine world in recent years too.Ernestina notes that Cava’s acidity andfizziness make it the perfectaccompaniment to any meal, but alsopoints out that the versatility of Cava isthat each type has what she calls itsown “culinary moment”, suggestingthe Torelló Brut Nature’s fresh and dryfinish goes well with light first coursessuch as seafood or smoked salmon,whereas Gran Torelló (which spends aminimum of three and a half yearsmaturing) is better suited to maincourses, particularly those with richsauces or spicy food.With the endorsement of the father ofnew Spanish cuisine and holder ofthree Michelin stars, Juan Mari Arzak,Torelló’s Brut Nature is served at thechef’s San Sebastian (northern Spain)

restaurant. The Basque maestroaccompanies the Cava with anassortment of goodies, including arange of aperitifs such as crunchy ricewith hongos (wild mushrooms), “frozensmoke” with fruit juice, mackerel“fossil”, pollopera (poussin), and lotusroot with an arraitxiki (fish-based)mousse.But moving away from the hautecuisine of Arzak, how else can Cava becomplemented in the kitchen? In orderto match food to the wine, anunderstanding of the types of Cavaavailable on the market is necessary.These are classified by the amount ofresidual sugars they contain. The typesavailable are brut nature: (no addedsugar) up to 3 g (0.10 oz) of sugar perl; extra brut: up to 6 g (0.21 oz) per l;brut: up to 15 g (0.53 oz) per l; extraseco: between 12 and 20 g (0.42 and0.71 oz) per l; seco: between 17 and35 g (0.60 and 1.23 oz) per l; semi-seco: between 33 and 50 g (1.16 ozand 1.76 oz) per l; and dulce: morethan 50 g (1.76 oz) per l.

In general, the warmer climate inSpain means grapes ripen easily and issaid to give many Cavas a softer,fruitier taste than other sparklingwines. This fruitier flavor contrastswith the more traditional, yeastier tasteof Champagne and with Cava’sminerality keeping bread-like aromasto a minimum, its crisp, light, freshand clean flavor make it a perfectmatch for fish, seafood, poultry andcreamy sauces such as mayonnaise.For years, sparkling wine has beendrunk as an aperitif, refreshinglywashing down canapés and nibbles. Itis true that as an accompaniment tofoie, pâté and cured Ibérico ham, forexample, nothing beats Cava. But italso combines brilliantly with thehealthy characteristics of theMediterranean diet: nuts, dried fruitand seasoned olives go well with dryCavas such as brut nature and extrabrut; oil-rich fish such as sardines andanchovies are associated with the moreacidic Cavas, while preserved meatand sausages such as Ibérico ham or


Cava in Catalonia has always been afamily affair, and two great lineages—the Raventós at Codorníu and theFerrer i Salas at Freixenet—havereigned over production for years.Freixenet is famous for its marketingcampaigns, which include the iconicsuccess of a Cava sold in a completelyblack frosted bottle (Cordón Negro)and, famously, a mass media coupwhich turned their Christmasadvertising campaigns into the mostwatched TV ads in Spain. This hasinvolved hiring top Hollywood actorsto appear in the commercials andfilmmakers like Martin Scorsese todirect them. Now amongst the top tenwineries in the world, Freixenet makes120 million bottles a year, hasregistered sales in 146 countries and issaid to be responsible for 75% of allCava production, turning over 250million euros a year in exports alone.Their range of wines is incredible:from the Gran Cordón Negro, whichthey recommend trying with a saltedcod omelet, to their Segura Viudas

(one of several other wineries theyown) Brut Reserva, which is excellentwith spicy foods like curry. Theyproduce over 20 Cavas under theFreixenet name alone, and many morethrough the multiple bodegas theyhave acquired over the years.While Codorníu’s production does notreach that of its great rival Freixenet,the bodega that invented Cava hasenormous worldwide sales amountingto 30 million bottles, and sellsexcellent quality Cavas such as thewell-priced Pinot Noir Brut Rosé—atipple well-received by critics andconsumers around the globe—andwhose fresh zingy flavors make it anideal partner to fruit-based puddings,creamy rice or cheese sauces.Despite these two winemakers’dominance over the market, they arenot the only producers in the region.Smaller up-and-coming bodegas suchas Torelló, Gramona, Juvé y Camps,Alta Alella and the organic wineryAlbet i Noya (Spain Gourmetour No.77) are making Cavas of exceedingly

high quality which sell not only withinSpain but are also making inroads intothe export market. It’s with some ofthe wide range of delights thesesmaller wineries have to offer that we’llsee just how well Cava adapts to thefood on your table.

Matches madein heavenNearly all the bodegueros I spoke to forthe purpose of this article told me thesame thing: Cava is a wine just like anyother, and as such it should be drunkwith all kinds of food. And althoughthis holds true, it is also clear that thereare certain things that go downparticularly well with a crisp, cool Cava.Wine runs in the blood of the Torellófamily, which has been making thestuff since the Middle Ages, but itwasn’t until 1951 that FranciscoTorelló, father of current CEOErnestina Torelló, decided to branchout into Cava. Using the traditionalMacabeo, Parellada and Xarel·lo hand-

CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

WINES



harvested grapes grown in their ownvineyards, the company makes top-of-the-range Cavas. And Ernestina’sfamily isn’t the only branch of theTorelló clan making top-quality Cava.The produce of Agustí Torelló Mata,her cousin, has been making waves inthe wine world in recent years too.Ernestina notes that Cava’s acidity andfizziness make it the perfectaccompaniment to any meal, but alsopoints out that the versatility of Cava isthat each type has what she calls itsown “culinary moment”, suggestingthe Torelló Brut Nature’s fresh and dryfinish goes well with light first coursessuch as seafood or smoked salmon,whereas Gran Torelló (which spends aminimum of three and a half yearsmaturing) is better suited to maincourses, particularly those with richsauces or spicy food.With the endorsement of the father ofnew Spanish cuisine and holder ofthree Michelin stars, Juan Mari Arzak,Torelló’s Brut Nature is served at thechef’s San Sebastian (northern Spain)

restaurant. The Basque maestroaccompanies the Cava with anassortment of goodies, including arange of aperitifs such as crunchy ricewith hongos (wild mushrooms), “frozensmoke” with fruit juice, mackerel“fossil”, pollopera (poussin), and lotusroot with an arraitxiki (fish-based)mousse.But moving away from the hautecuisine of Arzak, how else can Cava becomplemented in the kitchen? In orderto match food to the wine, anunderstanding of the types of Cavaavailable on the market is necessary.These are classified by the amount ofresidual sugars they contain. The typesavailable are brut nature: (no addedsugar) up to 3 g (0.10 oz) of sugar perl; extra brut: up to 6 g (0.21 oz) per l;brut: up to 15 g (0.53 oz) per l; extraseco: between 12 and 20 g (0.42 and0.71 oz) per l; seco: between 17 and35 g (0.60 and 1.23 oz) per l; semi-seco: between 33 and 50 g (1.16 ozand 1.76 oz) per l; and dulce: morethan 50 g (1.76 oz) per l.

In general, the warmer climate inSpain means grapes ripen easily and issaid to give many Cavas a softer,fruitier taste than other sparklingwines. This fruitier flavor contrastswith the more traditional, yeastier tasteof Champagne and with Cava’sminerality keeping bread-like aromasto a minimum, its crisp, light, freshand clean flavor make it a perfectmatch for fish, seafood, poultry andcreamy sauces such as mayonnaise.For years, sparkling wine has beendrunk as an aperitif, refreshinglywashing down canapés and nibbles. Itis true that as an accompaniment tofoie, pâté and cured Ibérico ham, forexample, nothing beats Cava. But italso combines brilliantly with thehealthy characteristics of theMediterranean diet: nuts, dried fruitand seasoned olives go well with dryCavas such as brut nature and extrabrut; oil-rich fish such as sardines andanchovies are associated with the moreacidic Cavas, while preserved meatand sausages such as Ibérico ham or


Cava in Catalonia has always been afamily affair, and two great lineages—the Raventós at Codorníu and theFerrer i Salas at Freixenet—havereigned over production for years.Freixenet is famous for its marketingcampaigns, which include the iconicsuccess of a Cava sold in a completelyblack frosted bottle (Cordón Negro)and, famously, a mass media coupwhich turned their Christmasadvertising campaigns into the mostwatched TV ads in Spain. This hasinvolved hiring top Hollywood actorsto appear in the commercials andfilmmakers like Martin Scorsese todirect them. Now amongst the top tenwineries in the world, Freixenet makes120 million bottles a year, hasregistered sales in 146 countries and issaid to be responsible for 75% of allCava production, turning over 250million euros a year in exports alone.Their range of wines is incredible:from the Gran Cordón Negro, whichthey recommend trying with a saltedcod omelet, to their Segura Viudas

(one of several other wineries theyown) Brut Reserva, which is excellentwith spicy foods like curry. Theyproduce over 20 Cavas under theFreixenet name alone, and many morethrough the multiple bodegas theyhave acquired over the years.While Codorníu’s production does notreach that of its great rival Freixenet,the bodega that invented Cava hasenormous worldwide sales amountingto 30 million bottles, and sellsexcellent quality Cavas such as thewell-priced Pinot Noir Brut Rosé—atipple well-received by critics andconsumers around the globe—andwhose fresh zingy flavors make it anideal partner to fruit-based puddings,creamy rice or cheese sauces.Despite these two winemakers’dominance over the market, they arenot the only producers in the region.Smaller up-and-coming bodegas suchas Torelló, Gramona, Juvé y Camps,Alta Alella and the organic wineryAlbet i Noya (Spain Gourmetour No.77) are making Cavas of exceedingly

high quality which sell not only withinSpain but are also making inroads intothe export market. It’s with some ofthe wide range of delights thesesmaller wineries have to offer that we’llsee just how well Cava adapts to thefood on your table.

Matches madein heavenNearly all the bodegueros I spoke to forthe purpose of this article told me thesame thing: Cava is a wine just like anyother, and as such it should be drunkwith all kinds of food. And althoughthis holds true, it is also clear that thereare certain things that go downparticularly well with a crisp, cool Cava.Wine runs in the blood of the Torellófamily, which has been making thestuff since the Middle Ages, but itwasn’t until 1951 that FranciscoTorelló, father of current CEOErnestina Torelló, decided to branchout into Cava. Using the traditionalMacabeo, Parellada and Xarel·lo hand-

CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

WINES









05 CAVA AF_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 01/12/09 22:08 Página 44



CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

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CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

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CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

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CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

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rice is cooked.














Spanish tapas.





CAVA AND GASTRONOMY





WINES





rice is cooked.














Spanish tapas.





CAVA AND GASTRONOMY





WINES


que consumamos sus caldos contodo tipo de platos. Al igual que en elPenedés, el cava se debe tratar siemprecomo cualquier otro vino de grancalidad, capaz de acompañar un grannúmero de delicias culinarias.

Una miradahacia el futuroAunque durante mucho tiempo elcava no ha pasado de considerarse unaalternativa barata a otros espumosos,hoy en día su imagen está cambiandoy está pasando a ser considerada unabebida de gran calidad por derechopropio. La producción vinícola estáviviendo un momento de esplendor:cada año se consumen cerca de 100millones de botellas solo en España yun número aún mayor se destina a laexportación (“A golpe de vista”, pág. 48).A pesar del clima económico actual,los minoristas del Reino Unido siguenobservando un aumento en las ventasde los cavas; de hecho, la cadena

Sainsbury's ha declarado un aumentocontinuado de las ventasen enero de 2009. En 2008, Codorníuhablaba de un aumento en sus ventasde vinos del 135% en Estados Unidos,mientras que Alemania acaba deconsolidar su posición como principalconsumidor de cavas del mundo: másde 50 millones de botellas vendidasen un solo año; esto supone un 25%de incremento con respecto a 2007.El futuro, por tanto, se presenta muyprometedor. Esto quizás se deba a laversatilidad de un vino que mejoralos sabores de platos dulces y saladospor igual. Se trata de un caldo que sedisfruta no solo como aperitivo o parahacer un brindis de celebración, sinotambién como un vino de mesacorriente, para disfrutarlo en compañíade familiares y amigos. Por tanto, apesar del innegable atractivo del cavacomo forma de animar una buenafiesta, sería bueno no perder de vistaa los pueblos del Penedés siempreque salgamos a buscar el complementoperfecto para una buena cena.

Ian Cowley es un periodista británicoafincado en Madrid. Publica sus trabajossobre España en distintas publicacionesy cadenas, como las cadenas de radio ytelevisión de la BBC y las secciones deestilo de vida de HELLO! y ¡HOLA!

expandirse hacia los mercadosbritánico, estadounidense, alemány japonés, que a fecha de hoy siguensiendo sus principales consumidores.Quizás uno de los cavas más famososde esta bodega es su Reserva de laFamilia brut nature. En un 40%macabeo, 20% xarel·lo y 40% parellada,se recomienda vivamente probarlocon platos de texturas consistentescomo guisos muy completos, potajesy carnes asadas, por ejemplo. Combinatambién a la perfección con quesosy platos picantes, sobre todo con losquesos azules y los quesos de ovejay de cabra muy curados.

Seny y rauxaEn gran medida, la historia del cavarecoge esos rasgos del temperamentocatalán tan cacareados, el seny y la

rauxa. En castellano, seny sería algo asícomo “sentido común”; la rauxa, locontrario: un “estallido o explosión”.En el mundo artístico, por ejemplo,no hay un reflejo mejor de este rasgoque el del arquitecto modernistaAntonio Gaudí (1852-1926). Estearquitecto era de talante reservado ymuy conservador en su vida privada;en su arte, sin embargo, era capaz dediseñar edificios absolutamenteoriginales e impactantes, que a día dehoy siguen siendo monumentosemblemáticos de Barcelona.El papel que tiene el cava actualmenteen el panorama internacional se debea la unión de un trabajo constante, ala inteligencia comercial y a latradición familiar (seny), como seobserva por las bodegas de las quehemos hablado en este artículo. Sinembargo, a lo largo del camino, la

innovación y la espontaneidad (rauxa)han contribuido a consolidar laposición del cava como el segundoespumoso más consumido del mundo.Estos actos, como las campañaspublicitarias multimillonariasde Freixenet o la insistencia de lasbodegas en orientarse hacia lastécnicas y equipos más modernos, quecontribuyan a mejorar la producción,han tenido como resultado una granmejora en la calidad y la reputacióndel cava. Las bodegas han aprendidoa evolucionar al ritmo de los tiempos,introduciendo variedades diferentesde uva, como el chardonnay, en susmétodos de elaboración. Este tipo deuva, que solo se usa en la produccióndesde la década de 1980, ha aportadoelegancia, cuerpo y complejidadaromática al vino.La bodega ecológica Albet i Noya esotro ejemplo de innovación. Cuandose instauró, en 1977, era la primera deeste tipo en España. Actualmente,elabora más de un millón de botellasde vinos ecológicos, un 20% de loscuales se destina al mercado exterior.Ahora, la reciente invención dedelicatessen futuristas como el “cavasolidificado”, creado para la bodegaAgustí Torelló Mata por los hermanosRoca (Celler de Can Roca, Girona) havenido a consolidar la idea de que larauxa también es un factor de pesoen la evolución del cava.Aunque los cavas más dulces eranlos preferidos por el público,recientemente los brut y brut naturehan comenzado a ganar adeptos. Sinduda, empresas como Gramona oTorelló, que elaboran cavas de largoenvejecimiento, han observado estefenómeno. Quizás sean vinos tandelicados como estos, los que noslleven a comprender finalmente porqué los bodegueros insisten tanto en

Bodegas productoras decava: 272

Área de los viñedos dedicadaal cava: 33.706 ha / 83.290 ac

Producción (2008):228.050.000 botellas, 60% almercado de exportación

Exportaciones portipo (2008): brut nature yextra brut 1%, brut 40%,seco 16% y semiseco 36%

Fuente: CR Cava



with long aging, this is certainly thecase. It is perhaps with some of thesewonderful wines that we can fullyunderstand the winemakers’ insistenceupon drinking their produce with anytype of food. Just as in Penedès, Cavashould be treated like any other greatwine and drunk to accompany a wholerange of culinary treats.

Looking to thefutureLong considered a low-costalternative to other sparkling wines,Cava is steadily shedding its image tobe considered a top-quality tipple inits own right. Production of the wineis now at an all-time high, witharound 100 million bottles consumedevery year within Spain and evenmore exported abroad (Snapshot,page 48). Despite the currenteconomic climate, UK retailers are

still seeing sales of Cava rising, withsupermarket chain Sainsburyreporting increased sales in January2009. In 2008, Codorníu reported a135% increase in sales of its wines inthe US, while Germany consolidatedits position as the world’s top Cavaconsumer with over 50 millionbottles sold in the same year, a 25%improvement on 2007.So the future looks sparkling. Andperhaps this is in part due to theversatility of a wine which enhancesthe flavors of sweet and savory dishesalike. It is a beverage that can beenjoyed not only as an aperitif or tomake a toast, but also as an everydaytable wine to be quaffed in thecompany of family and friends. Sodespite Cava’s undeniable appeal as anideal way to get the party started, it’salso worth remembering the people ofPenedès when looking for that perfectwine match.

Ian Cowley is a Madrid-based Britishjournalist. He contributes pieces on Spainto a variety of publications andbroadcasters including BBC radio andtelevision and the lifestyle sections ofHELLO! and ¡HOLA! magazines.

company notes that the fruity tones ofits pinot noir brut rosé go ideally withJapanese cuisine such as sushi orsashimi. The winery, which startedproducing Cavas in the 1920s, is yetanother family business which hasbeen passed down throughgenerations. With a solid reputation inSpain, sales really began to take off inthe 1980s as the company expanded,looking particularly towards the UK,US, German and Japanese markets,which remain its product’s biggestconsumers.Perhaps one of its best known Cavas isthe Reserva de la Familia Brut Nature.Made up of 40% Macabeo, 20%Xarel·lo and 40% Parellada, the winerystrongly recommends trying thisdelightful pale golden Cava withdishes of a stronger texture: heartystews, casseroles and roast meat, for

example. It is also excellent with spicyfood and cheeses, particularly withblue cheese or cured sheeps’ and goats’cheese.

Seny and rauxaTo a great extent, the story of Cavaencompasses those two much-talked-about co-existing Catalan charactertraits: seny and rauxa. In English, senytranslates as something like “commonsense”, whereas rauxa is the completeopposite, meaning “outburst orexplosion”. In the art world, forexample, no one better encompassesthis trait than the modernist architectAntoni Gaudí (1852-1926). A reservedand highly conservative man in hisprivate life, he was capable ofdesigning the most breathtakingly out-of-this-world buildings which still to

this day constitute some of Barcelona’smost emblematic monuments.The establishment of Cava as a globalplayer has been achieved through hardwork, good business acumen andfamily tradition (seny) as we have seenwith all the bodegas mentioned in thisarticle. But along the way, innovationand spontaneous acts (rauxa) havehelped consolidate Cava’s position asthe second-most consumed sparklingwine in the world. These acts, such asFreixenet’s multi-million dollar adcampaigns, or the wineries’ insistencein always looking for ways ofmodernizing and enhancingtechniques and equipment, have led toa huge improvement in the quality andreputation of Cava. The bodegas havelearned to move with the times,introducing different grape varietiessuch as Chardonnay into production.This type of grape, which has onlybeen used in production since the ‘80s,has brought elegance, structure andaromatic complexity to the wine.The organic winery Albet i Noya isanother example of innovation. Whenit was set up in 1977, it was the first ofits kind in Spain. Now it producesover a million bottles of organic wine,20% of which are exported. And therecent development of futuristicdelicacies such as “solid” Cava—created for the Agustí Torelló Matabodega by the Roca brothers (Celler deCan Roca, Girona)—further cementthe idea of rauxa playing its part inCava’s evolution.While for years the sweeter Cavas soldby the truckload, it is only recentlythat the brut and brut nature havecome to be more appreciated. In thecase of companies such as Gramonaand Torelló, both of which make Cavas

CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

WINES

Cava producing wineries: 272

Area of vineyard dedicated to Cava:33,706 ha (83,289 acres)

Production (2008): 228,050,000bottles, 60% of which are exported

Export by type (2008): brut natureand extra brut 1%, brut 40%, seco16% and semi-seco 36%

Source: Cava Regulatory Council

S N A P S H O T


que consumamos sus caldos contodo tipo de platos. Al igual que en elPenedés, el cava se debe tratar siemprecomo cualquier otro vino de grancalidad, capaz de acompañar un grannúmero de delicias culinarias.

Una miradahacia el futuroAunque durante mucho tiempo elcava no ha pasado de considerarse unaalternativa barata a otros espumosos,hoy en día su imagen está cambiandoy está pasando a ser considerada unabebida de gran calidad por derechopropio. La producción vinícola estáviviendo un momento de esplendor:cada año se consumen cerca de 100millones de botellas solo en España yun número aún mayor se destina a laexportación (“A golpe de vista”, pág. 48).A pesar del clima económico actual,los minoristas del Reino Unido siguenobservando un aumento en las ventasde los cavas; de hecho, la cadena

Sainsbury's ha declarado un aumentocontinuado de las ventasen enero de 2009. En 2008, Codorníuhablaba de un aumento en sus ventasde vinos del 135% en Estados Unidos,mientras que Alemania acaba deconsolidar su posición como principalconsumidor de cavas del mundo: másde 50 millones de botellas vendidasen un solo año; esto supone un 25%de incremento con respecto a 2007.El futuro, por tanto, se presenta muyprometedor. Esto quizás se deba a laversatilidad de un vino que mejoralos sabores de platos dulces y saladospor igual. Se trata de un caldo que sedisfruta no solo como aperitivo o parahacer un brindis de celebración, sinotambién como un vino de mesacorriente, para disfrutarlo en compañíade familiares y amigos. Por tanto, apesar del innegable atractivo del cavacomo forma de animar una buenafiesta, sería bueno no perder de vistaa los pueblos del Penedés siempreque salgamos a buscar el complementoperfecto para una buena cena.

Ian Cowley es un periodista británicoafincado en Madrid. Publica sus trabajossobre España en distintas publicacionesy cadenas, como las cadenas de radio ytelevisión de la BBC y las secciones deestilo de vida de HELLO! y ¡HOLA!

expandirse hacia los mercadosbritánico, estadounidense, alemány japonés, que a fecha de hoy siguensiendo sus principales consumidores.Quizás uno de los cavas más famososde esta bodega es su Reserva de laFamilia brut nature. En un 40%macabeo, 20% xarel·lo y 40% parellada,se recomienda vivamente probarlocon platos de texturas consistentescomo guisos muy completos, potajesy carnes asadas, por ejemplo. Combinatambién a la perfección con quesosy platos picantes, sobre todo con losquesos azules y los quesos de ovejay de cabra muy curados.

Seny y rauxaEn gran medida, la historia del cavarecoge esos rasgos del temperamentocatalán tan cacareados, el seny y la

rauxa. En castellano, seny sería algo asícomo “sentido común”; la rauxa, locontrario: un “estallido o explosión”.En el mundo artístico, por ejemplo,no hay un reflejo mejor de este rasgoque el del arquitecto modernistaAntonio Gaudí (1852-1926). Estearquitecto era de talante reservado ymuy conservador en su vida privada;en su arte, sin embargo, era capaz dediseñar edificios absolutamenteoriginales e impactantes, que a día dehoy siguen siendo monumentosemblemáticos de Barcelona.El papel que tiene el cava actualmenteen el panorama internacional se debea la unión de un trabajo constante, ala inteligencia comercial y a latradición familiar (seny), como seobserva por las bodegas de las quehemos hablado en este artículo. Sinembargo, a lo largo del camino, la

innovación y la espontaneidad (rauxa)han contribuido a consolidar laposición del cava como el segundoespumoso más consumido del mundo.Estos actos, como las campañaspublicitarias multimillonariasde Freixenet o la insistencia de lasbodegas en orientarse hacia lastécnicas y equipos más modernos, quecontribuyan a mejorar la producción,han tenido como resultado una granmejora en la calidad y la reputacióndel cava. Las bodegas han aprendidoa evolucionar al ritmo de los tiempos,introduciendo variedades diferentesde uva, como el chardonnay, en susmétodos de elaboración. Este tipo deuva, que solo se usa en la produccióndesde la década de 1980, ha aportadoelegancia, cuerpo y complejidadaromática al vino.La bodega ecológica Albet i Noya esotro ejemplo de innovación. Cuandose instauró, en 1977, era la primera deeste tipo en España. Actualmente,elabora más de un millón de botellasde vinos ecológicos, un 20% de loscuales se destina al mercado exterior.Ahora, la reciente invención dedelicatessen futuristas como el “cavasolidificado”, creado para la bodegaAgustí Torelló Mata por los hermanosRoca (Celler de Can Roca, Girona) havenido a consolidar la idea de que larauxa también es un factor de pesoen la evolución del cava.Aunque los cavas más dulces eranlos preferidos por el público,recientemente los brut y brut naturehan comenzado a ganar adeptos. Sinduda, empresas como Gramona oTorelló, que elaboran cavas de largoenvejecimiento, han observado estefenómeno. Quizás sean vinos tandelicados como estos, los que noslleven a comprender finalmente porqué los bodegueros insisten tanto en

Bodegas productoras decava: 272

Área de los viñedos dedicadaal cava: 33.706 ha / 83.290 ac

Producción (2008):228.050.000 botellas, 60% almercado de exportación

Exportaciones portipo (2008): brut nature yextra brut 1%, brut 40%,seco 16% y semiseco 36%

Fuente: CR Cava



with long aging, this is certainly thecase. It is perhaps with some of thesewonderful wines that we can fullyunderstand the winemakers’ insistenceupon drinking their produce with anytype of food. Just as in Penedès, Cavashould be treated like any other greatwine and drunk to accompany a wholerange of culinary treats.

Looking to thefutureLong considered a low-costalternative to other sparkling wines,Cava is steadily shedding its image tobe considered a top-quality tipple inits own right. Production of the wineis now at an all-time high, witharound 100 million bottles consumedevery year within Spain and evenmore exported abroad (Snapshot,page 48). Despite the currenteconomic climate, UK retailers are

still seeing sales of Cava rising, withsupermarket chain Sainsburyreporting increased sales in January2009. In 2008, Codorníu reported a135% increase in sales of its wines inthe US, while Germany consolidatedits position as the world’s top Cavaconsumer with over 50 millionbottles sold in the same year, a 25%improvement on 2007.So the future looks sparkling. Andperhaps this is in part due to theversatility of a wine which enhancesthe flavors of sweet and savory dishesalike. It is a beverage that can beenjoyed not only as an aperitif or tomake a toast, but also as an everydaytable wine to be quaffed in thecompany of family and friends. Sodespite Cava’s undeniable appeal as anideal way to get the party started, it’salso worth remembering the people ofPenedès when looking for that perfectwine match.

Ian Cowley is a Madrid-based Britishjournalist. He contributes pieces on Spainto a variety of publications andbroadcasters including BBC radio andtelevision and the lifestyle sections ofHELLO! and ¡HOLA! magazines.

company notes that the fruity tones ofits pinot noir brut rosé go ideally withJapanese cuisine such as sushi orsashimi. The winery, which startedproducing Cavas in the 1920s, is yetanother family business which hasbeen passed down throughgenerations. With a solid reputation inSpain, sales really began to take off inthe 1980s as the company expanded,looking particularly towards the UK,US, German and Japanese markets,which remain its product’s biggestconsumers.Perhaps one of its best known Cavas isthe Reserva de la Familia Brut Nature.Made up of 40% Macabeo, 20%Xarel·lo and 40% Parellada, the winerystrongly recommends trying thisdelightful pale golden Cava withdishes of a stronger texture: heartystews, casseroles and roast meat, for

example. It is also excellent with spicyfood and cheeses, particularly withblue cheese or cured sheeps’ and goats’cheese.

Seny and rauxaTo a great extent, the story of Cavaencompasses those two much-talked-about co-existing Catalan charactertraits: seny and rauxa. In English, senytranslates as something like “commonsense”, whereas rauxa is the completeopposite, meaning “outburst orexplosion”. In the art world, forexample, no one better encompassesthis trait than the modernist architectAntoni Gaudí (1852-1926). A reservedand highly conservative man in hisprivate life, he was capable ofdesigning the most breathtakingly out-of-this-world buildings which still to

this day constitute some of Barcelona’smost emblematic monuments.The establishment of Cava as a globalplayer has been achieved through hardwork, good business acumen andfamily tradition (seny) as we have seenwith all the bodegas mentioned in thisarticle. But along the way, innovationand spontaneous acts (rauxa) havehelped consolidate Cava’s position asthe second-most consumed sparklingwine in the world. These acts, such asFreixenet’s multi-million dollar adcampaigns, or the wineries’ insistencein always looking for ways ofmodernizing and enhancingtechniques and equipment, have led toa huge improvement in the quality andreputation of Cava. The bodegas havelearned to move with the times,introducing different grape varietiessuch as Chardonnay into production.This type of grape, which has onlybeen used in production since the ‘80s,has brought elegance, structure andaromatic complexity to the wine.The organic winery Albet i Noya isanother example of innovation. Whenit was set up in 1977, it was the first ofits kind in Spain. Now it producesover a million bottles of organic wine,20% of which are exported. And therecent development of futuristicdelicacies such as “solid” Cava—created for the Agustí Torelló Matabodega by the Roca brothers (Celler deCan Roca, Girona)—further cementthe idea of rauxa playing its part inCava’s evolution.While for years the sweeter Cavas soldby the truckload, it is only recentlythat the brut and brut nature havecome to be more appreciated. In thecase of companies such as Gramonaand Torelló, both of which make Cavas

CAVA AND GASTRONOMY

WINES

Cava producing wineries: 272

Area of vineyard dedicated to Cava:33,706 ha (83,289 acres)

Production (2008): 228,050,000bottles, 60% of which are exported

Export by type (2008): brut natureand extra brut 1%, brut 40%, seco16% and semi-seco 36%

Source: Cava Regulatory Council

S N A P S H O T


05 I+D AF.qxd 24/11/09 21:10 Página 50

quehacer diario. A menudo se olvidala importancia de los hermanos Rocacomo inventores. Ellos transformaronun aparato de laboratorio en uninstrumento esencial para la cocinacontemporánea: el roner. Éste permitecontrolar la temperatura del agua paracocinar con precisión. Como tambiénhan convertido, con el apoyo de laFundación Alícia y de la empresa ICC(Spain Gourmetour, n.º 17); unrotavapor de laboratorio en el rotaval,que ha hecho posibles los destilados.O quienes perfeccionaron el métodode cocción al vacío que tanto hafacilitado el trabajo de los cocineroscontemporáneos. Logros notables queya forman parte de la historia de lacocina moderna. “Siempre hemos idoun poco por libre –explica Joan Roca–guiados por la intuición y aplicandoel método empírico de acierto-error.A uno de nosotros se le ocurre algo ylos tres comenzamos a darle vueltas.Desde hace un tiempo recurrimos ala Fundación Alícia y a Pere Castells,ellos nos facilitan mucho las cosas”.Su taller ocupa lo que fue el restaurante,hoy trasladado a un espacio máslujoso. Allí, el benjamín, Jordi Roca,jefe de investigación, trabaja con unpar de cocineros sobre las ideassugeridas por sus hermanos, Joan yJosep, el sumiller. Cuando comienzanun trabajo les gusta llegar hasta elfinal, por eso siguen profundizandoen las líneas de investigación queiniciaron hace años: los postres apartir de perfumes, la cocina del vino,el humo como transmisor de aromas,la cocina al vacío... Pero, además,han abierto una nueva vía en tornoa la extracción de aceites esenciales.Esta historia acerca de la cocina, lainvestigación y el desarrollo no estaríacompleta si nos olvidáramos demencionar, además del ya señaladosobre los usos del nitrógeno líquido enla cocina, otros trabajos de Dani García,

en colaboración con Raimundo Garcíadel Moral, catedrático de AnatomíaPatológica de la Universidad deGranada, tales como la fritura (SpainGourmetour, n.º 16) o las grasas delcerdo ibérico. Los de Eneko Atxa(restaurante Azurmendi, una estrellaMichelin, en Bilbao y Villamagna, enMadrid) sobre la impregnación dearomas, desarrollados junto a JuanManuel Madariaga, catedrático deQuímica Analítica, de la Universidad deBilbao. Los de Pedro Subijana (Akelarre,tres estrellas Michelin) o los de quellevan a cabo las Universidades deValencia, Navarra, Zaragoza o A Coruñaen colaboración con cocineros de dichasComunidades Autónomas, además delos del ámbito de la pasteleríaencabezados por Paco Torreblanca,

Oriol Balaguer, Jordi Butrón, ChristianEscribà, Miguel Sierra, Enric Rovira,Ramón Morató, etc.

Julia Pérez es periodista y críticagastronómica, lleva más de quince añostrabajando como editora de gastronomíaen diferentes revistas femeninas (MíaCocina, Vogue, Gala, Biba, Elle). Escolaboradora habitual del diario ElMundo y de las revistas Esquire,Spanorama y Vino+Gastronomía, asícomo de otros medios de comunicaciónnacionales y extranjeros. Ha publicadovarios libros y guías de restaurantes. En2005 le fue concedido el Premio Nacionalde Gastronomía a la mejor laborperiodística.

para la industria alimentaria y paraotros segmentos empresariales. Unainteracción en la que ambas partes seenriquecen. Son conscientes de que laalimentación se va a colocar en unnuevo espacio al verse potenciada lagastronomía en el ámbito universitario.

Capacidad deinventarCuando hablamos de cocina, investigarno solo significa descubrir productoso crear nuevos platos. Investigartambién supone inventar mecanismos,artilugios o métodos que ayuden aresolver los problemas con que loscocineros se encuentran en su

Alícia (Alimentación y Ciencia)Alícia es una fundación creada por laGeneralitat de Catalunya y Caixa Manresa,que cuenta con un Consejo Asesorpresidido por el cocinero Ferran Adrià y conel asesoramiento del cardiólogo españolValentín Fuster, uno de los cardiólogos másrespetados en el mundo y actual presidentede la Asociación Mundial de Cardiología.Un centro de investigación dedicado a lainnovación tecnológica en cocina y a ladifusión del patrimonio agroalimentario ygastronómico. Está abierto al público eimparte talleres de todos los temas y paratodas las edades. Entre sus objetivos figurael de promover una buena alimentación yayudar a los cocineros a usar la cienciapara que la gente coma mejor.Entre sus proyectos destacan el que realizanen colaboración con el Hospital Clínic deBarcelona sobre la diabetes, el que preparansobre la dieta de las mujeres con cáncerde mama o los diferentes estudios acercade temas concretos (fritura, cocina atemperatura controlada, bases de pastelería,etc.) con diferentes cocineros.www.alicia.cat (Español, catalán e inglés)

Alcotec (Alta Cocina y Tecnología)Surge hace seis años como un proyecto decolaboración entre el Gobierno de Aragón–a través de los departamentos de Ciencia,Tecnología y Universidad e Industria,Comercio y Turismo y la Universidad deZaragoza–. Su objetivo, acercar los métodosde trabajo científico a los cocineros con el finde facilitar los procesos de innovación ydesarrollo.www.gastronomia-aragonesa.com/gastronomia/alcotec.php (Español)

Instituto Culinario Vasco (BasqueCulinare Center)Organismo de reciente creación,dependiente de la Universidad deMondragón. Cuenta con el apoyoincondicional de todos los grandescocineros vascos. Su misión seráformar a los cocineros del siglo XXI,cuyas titulaciones de grado o posgradotendrán rango universitario.www.bculinary.com (Español)

Cátedra Ferran AdriàIntegrada en la Universidad CamiloJosé Cela de Madrid, está abiertaa los universitarios de cualquierdisciplina y tiene como objetivofomentar la cultura gastronómica y lainquietud por asuntos relacionadoscon la alimentación. Sus clasespueden seguirse a través del aulaabierta Universidad que se desarrollaen Internet.www.ucjc.edu/index.php?section=estudios/titulaciones/catedras/catedra-ferran-adria (Español)

05 I+D AF_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 02/12/09 1:10 Página 62

SCIE

NCE

Though today’s avant-garde

chefs are sometimes accused of

turning their kitchens into

scientific laboratories, there’s

no doubt that when a piece of

meat is heated, the reaction that

takes place is a chemical one.

It’s as simple as that. Science

and cooking are processes that

go hand-in-hand, now more

than ever before.

Meets Cuisine

Where

06 I+D IN_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/11/09 9:36 Página 50 (INGLES plancha)

apparatus into an essential tool forcontemporary cuisine, the Ronerthermostat, making it possible tocontrol the temperature of cookingwater with total precision. Also, withthe help of the Alícia Foundation andthe company ICC (InternationalCooking Concepts, Spain GourmetourNo. 73), they converted a rotaryevaporator into the Rotaval, forproducing distillates. Another essentialadvance that makes life much easierfor today’s chefs is the sous-videmethod. All these achievements formpart of the history of modern cooking.“We’ve always been free spirits,”explains Joan Roca. “Our method issimply to follow our intuition andwork by trial and error. One of us hasan idea, then the three of us getthinking. Ever since we startedworking with the Alícia Foundationand Pere Castells, things have beengoing much more smoothly.”Their workshop is located in what wastheir restaurant, which has now movedto more luxurious premises. Theyoungest of the three, Jordi, head ofresearch, works with a couple of chefson the ideas suggested by his brothersJoan and sommelier Josep. Once theystart following up an idea, they like todo things thoroughly, which explainswhy they are still working on lines ofresearch they started up many yearsago: perfume-themed desserts,cooking with wine, smoke as a vehiclefor aromas, sous-vide cooking, etc.And they have also opened up a newfield of study for the extraction ofessential oils.This brief history of cuisine andresearch would be incomplete withoutmentioning, in addition to his

exploration of the use of liquidnitrogen, other work done by DaniGarcía in collaboration with RaimundoGarcía del Moral in connection withfrying (Spain Gourmetour No. 72) andIbérico pork fat. Other importantnames include: Eneko Atxa(Restaurante Azurmendi, one Michelinstar, in Bilbao, and Villa Magna inMadrid), who is working onimpregnating aromas together withJuan Manuel Madariaga, professor ofanalytical chemistry at the Universityof Bilbao; and Pedro Subijana(Akelarre, three Michelin stars, in SanSebastian). The Universities ofValencia, Navarre, Zaragoza and ACoruña are also collaborating withlocal chefs. Finally, mention must be

made of research in the field ofpatisserie, headed by Paco Torreblanca,Oriol Balaguer, Jordi Butrón, ChristianEscribà, Miguel Sierra, Enric Rovira,and Ramon Morató, among others.

Julia Pérez, a journalist and food writer,has been editing the food sections of anumber of women’s publications (MíaCocina, Vogue, Gala, Biba, Elle) formore than 15 years. She writes regularlyfor the newspaper El Mundo and themagazines Esquire, Spanorama andVino+Gastronomía, as well as otherSpanish and foreign publications. She haswritten a number of books and restaurantguides. In 2005 she was awarded theNational Gastronomy Award for the bestjournalistic piece.


food sector and for other businessareas. The interaction is beneficial toboth sides. Their impression is thatfood and nutrition are set to become anew field of interest now thatgastronomy is finding a niche inuniversity circles.

InventivenessIn cuisine, research does not onlymean discovering new products orcreating new dishes, it also leads to theinvention of new devices, mechanismsand methods that help resolve theproblems chefs face on a daily basis.Key inventors are the Roca brothers.They transformed a laboratory

RESEARCH, DEVELOPMENT AND COOKING

CULINARYFARE


CULINARYFARE

Alícia (Alimentación y Ciencia, Food andScience)Alícia is a foundation set up by thegovernment of Catalonia and the CaixaManresa savings bank. Its Advisory Board,chaired by Ferran Adrià, receives advice fromSpanish cardiologist Valentín Fuster, one ofthe world’s most respected doctors in hisfield and a former President of the WorldHeart Federation. This research center aimsto carry out technological innovation incuisine and to disseminate food andgastronomy know-how. It is open to thepublic and offers workshops on a widevariety of topics and for all ages. By helpingchefs use science, it hopes to encouragehealthier eating habits.It is working on a series of projects withdifferent chefs, including one on diabetes incollaboration with Barcelona’s Hospital Clinic,another on the diet of women with breastcancer, and various on other specificsubjects (frying, controlled-temperaturecuisine, patisserie, etc.).www.alicia.cat (Catalan, English, Spanish)

Alcotec (Alta Cocina y Tecnología, HauteCuisine and Technology)This organization was created six years agoas a collaborative project between thegovernment of Aragon (through itsdepartments of Science, Technology andUniversity, and Industry, Trade and Tourism)and the University of Zaragoza. Its aim is tointroduce scientific working methods tochefs to facilitate innovation anddevelopment.www.gastronomia-aragonesa.com/gastronomia/alcotec.php (Spanish)

Instituto Culinario Vasco (Basque CulinaryCenter)This is a newly-created body, part of theUniversity of Mondragón, which boasts thesupport of all the great Basque chefs. Itsmission is to train the chefs of the 21st

century, whose qualifications will haveuniversity status.www.bculinary.com (Spanish)

Ferran Adrià ChairPart of Camilo José Cela University inMadrid, the Chair is open touniversity students in any disciplineand aims to promote gastronomicculture, encouraging students to takean interest in food-related topics.Classes can be followed via theuniversity’s internet classroom.www.ucjc.edu/index.php?section=estudios/titulaciones/catedras/catedra-ferran-adria (Spanish)

L E A D I N G O R G A N I Z A T I O N S


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SCIE

NCE

Though today’s avant-garde

chefs are sometimes accused of

turning their kitchens into

scientific laboratories, there’s

no doubt that when a piece of

meat is heated, the reaction that

takes place is a chemical one.

It’s as simple as that. Science

and cooking are processes that

go hand-in-hand, now more

than ever before.

Meets Cuisine

Where


tardar cuatro años en poner a puntoun plato y esto conlleva muchosinconvenientes, entre otros el plagio.Para muchos puede resultar ridículohablar de espionaje culinario pero esindignante y desalentador ver cómo uncolega, tal vez a miles de kilómetros,se apropia de un desarrollo en el quehas estado trabajando años. A nosotrosnos ha sucedido varias veces, pornuestra cocina desfilan más de ciencocineros cada año. Para evitarlo, ycomo no podemos patentar nuestrosplatos ni las técnicas, quienes trabajanen Mugaritz firman un contrato deconfidencialidad, algo habitual en lasempresas de tecnología”.Este año en colaboración con Porto-Muiños, empresa dedicada a todo tipode cultivos marinos, principalmentealgas (Spain Gourmetour, n.º 16),

investigan las posibilidades de lasplantas alófilas que crecen en la costacomo la salicornia, la verdolagamarina, etc.El taller de Mugaritz funcionacomo una empresa independiente.Dani Lasa, mano derecha de Adurizes el jefe del taller, donde tambiéntrabaja el cocinero Javier Vergaray Gema Serrano, química, ademásde otras personas que fluctúanen función de las necesidades(farmacéuticos, botánicos). “Sabemosque esto va a más. El taller tieneque sostenerse por sí mismo, nodepender del restaurante”.Desde hace cinco años el equipo deMugaritz colabora con AZTIdesarrollando líneas de trabajo queconectan cocina, ciencia e industria,que derivan en soluciones concretas

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galore, including that of being copied.Many people might think it’s ridiculousto talk about culinary espionage, but itis frankly disheartening to find that acolleague somewhere, maybethousands of miles away, has takenover a development that you’ve beenworking on for years. This hashappened to us several times. About ahundred chefs work in our kitchenevery year. So, to avoid it, and sinceyou can’t patent a dish or a technique,anyone coming to work at Mugaritz isasked to sign a confidentialityagreement, just as if they wereemployed by a technology company.”This year, in collaboration with Porto-Muiños (a company producing all sortsof marine crops, but mainly seaweed,

Spain Gourmetour No. 72), theMugaritz team is exploring thepotential of halophytes that grow alongthe coast, such as sea asparagus, seapurslane and others.The lab at Mugaritz functionsindependently from the restaurant, ledby Dani Lasa, Aduriz’s right-hand man.Chef Javier Vergara and chemistGema Serrano work in collaborationwith other specialists (pharmacists,botanists) as required. “We know thisis going to grow. The workshop has tomaintain itself and not depend on therestaurant.”For the last five years, the team hasbeen collaborating with AZTI on linesof work that link cuisine, science andindustry, building solutions for the


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The link between science and cuisineis nothing new. Scientific disciplinessuch as chemistry, physics, biology andbotany have always been closelyrelated to cooking, but never beforehad this link been so seriously studied.Debates about the existence of science-based cuisine—such as the one held atthe last edition of the madridfusiónfood conference—or the worldwidecontroversy over the terms “moleculargastronomy” and “molecular cuisine”have made the subject a topical one.To analyze it, we need to consider theapproach adopted by certain chefs andother experts who are not prepared tojust accept that things happen. Theywant to know why they happen. Thisdetermination to go further, tounderstand the processes taking placewhen food is cooked is what hasmarked the turning point in thedebate.“I’m not interested in knowing whatgoes on inside an egg when I cook it. Ionly want it to taste good.” Thisstatement made by Santi Santamaría(Restaurant Can Fabes, three Michelinstars), in the presence of hundreds ofcolleagues, today sounds more like thesort of thing a gourmet would say,rather than a chef. Most of today’sprofessionals are extremely interestedin what goes on inside the ingredientsthey use. They want to get the best outof them and use their skills to adaptthem to their needs. Chefs today areinquisitive because they feelknowledge can help them develop. Yet

there are many questions that have no

easy answer. How do foods change

when we cook them? How can we

make lighter preparations? Is it

possible to extract flavor? Can we alter

food textures?

And it is here that they resort to

science: chemistry, biology, physics.

And today’s R&D+c (research and

development applied to cooking) is

one of the main contributions made to

culinary history by the latestgeneration of chefs.

From Appert totodayUp to the 19th century, it was scientistswho had shown interest in the culinaryworld by making technologicalinnovations for food preservation, areal hurdle that man had forever beenseeking to overcome. In the early 19th

century, master confectioner NicolasAppert introduced “appertization”, atechnique for preserving food byheating it, after first bringing out hisbook L’Art de conserver, pendantplusieurs années, toutes les substancesanimales et végétales (Paris, 1810, TheArt of Preserving all Kinds of Animaland Vegetable Substances for SeveralYears). In it, he described the researchthat won him an award from theFrench government for a system forpreserving food for troops on themarch. Half way through the samecentury, French engineer FerdinandCarré brought out the first absorptionrefrigerator, substantially changingtrade in food and triggering the start ofthe food industry.In the 20th century, it was cooks thattook the initiative and started to askfor assistance from technicians andscientists. In 1974, at the instigation ofJean and Pierre Troisgros, GeorgesPralus showed how vacuum cookingcould prevent foie gras from shrinkingduring cooking. Since then,

TEXTJULIA PÉREZ/©ICEX

PHOTOSMIGUEL S. MOÑITA/©ICEX

LUCÍA M. DIZ/©ICEX



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The link between science and cuisineis nothing new. Scientific disciplinessuch as chemistry, physics, biology andbotany have always been closelyrelated to cooking, but never beforehad this link been so seriously studied.Debates about the existence of science-based cuisine—such as the one held atthe last edition of the madridfusiónfood conference—or the worldwidecontroversy over the terms “moleculargastronomy” and “molecular cuisine”have made the subject a topical one.To analyze it, we need to consider theapproach adopted by certain chefs andother experts who are not prepared tojust accept that things happen. Theywant to know why they happen. Thisdetermination to go further, tounderstand the processes taking placewhen food is cooked is what hasmarked the turning point in thedebate.“I’m not interested in knowing whatgoes on inside an egg when I cook it. Ionly want it to taste good.” Thisstatement made by Santi Santamaría(Restaurant Can Fabes, three Michelinstars), in the presence of hundreds ofcolleagues, today sounds more like thesort of thing a gourmet would say,rather than a chef. Most of today’sprofessionals are extremely interestedin what goes on inside the ingredientsthey use. They want to get the best outof them and use their skills to adaptthem to their needs. Chefs today areinquisitive because they feelknowledge can help them develop. Yet

there are many questions that have no

easy answer. How do foods change

when we cook them? How can we

make lighter preparations? Is it

possible to extract flavor? Can we alter

food textures?

And it is here that they resort to

science: chemistry, biology, physics.

And today’s R&D+c (research and

development applied to cooking) is

one of the main contributions made to

culinary history by the latestgeneration of chefs.

From Appert totodayUp to the 19th century, it was scientistswho had shown interest in the culinaryworld by making technologicalinnovations for food preservation, areal hurdle that man had forever beenseeking to overcome. In the early 19th

century, master confectioner NicolasAppert introduced “appertization”, atechnique for preserving food byheating it, after first bringing out hisbook L’Art de conserver, pendantplusieurs années, toutes les substancesanimales et végétales (Paris, 1810, TheArt of Preserving all Kinds of Animaland Vegetable Substances for SeveralYears). In it, he described the researchthat won him an award from theFrench government for a system forpreserving food for troops on themarch. Half way through the samecentury, French engineer FerdinandCarré brought out the first absorptionrefrigerator, substantially changingtrade in food and triggering the start ofthe food industry.In the 20th century, it was cooks thattook the initiative and started to askfor assistance from technicians andscientists. In 1974, at the instigation ofJean and Pierre Troisgros, GeorgesPralus showed how vacuum cookingcould prevent foie gras from shrinkingduring cooking. Since then,

TEXTJULIA PÉREZ/©ICEX

PHOTOSMIGUEL S. MOÑITA/©ICEX

LUCÍA M. DIZ/©ICEX



05 I+D AF.qxd 24/11/09 21:10 Página 54


collaboration between chefs andscientists has never stopped.It was in the 1980s that it reallyblossomed. The parents of moleculargastronomy, French physical chemistHervé This, a professor at theSorbonne, and Hungarian-born UKresident Nicholas Kurti (who, back in1969, had given a lecture at London’sRoyal Society entitled “The Physicist inthe Kitchen”) announced that theyintended to place science at the serviceof culinary creativity in the search fornew flavors, textures and gastronomicexperiences. They thus laid thefoundations for part of contemporarycooking.Almost at the same time, in 1984,professor Harold McGee published OnFood and Cooking: The Science and Loreof the Kitchen, the bible for many achef, which has now been translatedinto numerous languages, includingSpanish.And it was during this same decadethat Ferran Adrià and his team startedto open up new paths in collaborationwith scientists at lightning speed. Hiswork was imitated by several Spanish

chefs, and together they formed amovement that set trends all over theworld.Many subsequent events backed theirinitiatives. In 2005 in Italy, physicistDavide Cassi and chef Ettore Bocchiapublished “Manifesto della CucinaMolecolare Italiana”, helping coin theterm “molecular cuisine”.And, in spite of much confusion andcontroversy, the movement that relatesscience to cuisine has adopted thisname internationally. All itsparticipants, whether they accept thelabel or not, maintain that once youunderstand the changes that take placein food, the only limits to cooking areset by the palate and the eye, and thatthe interaction between science andcuisine can be very beneficial for both.In this context, the huge creativity ofSpanish chefs propelled them into thelead of this international movement.But they are not alone there. Otherchefs such as Heston Blumenthal,Pierre Gagnaire, Grant Achatz andMassimo Bottura are all working alongsimilar lines.Although molecular cuisine first

sparked the interest of Ferran Adriàback in the 1980s, his research made alasting mark on the internationalscene, where he is still todayconsidered the leader, and in Spain,because he was followed by chefs suchas Joan Roca (El Celler de Can Roca,three Michelin stars), who, in the early‘90s, started to experiment with lowtemperature cooking and eventuallycreated the Roner thermostat (SpainGourmetour, No. 73).In the 21st century the movementspread, with landmarks being set byAndoni Aduriz (Mugaritz, threeMichelin stars) in collaboration withGranada University professor ofpathological anatomy RaimundoGarcía del Moral for their work on foiegras, and by Dani García (Calima, oneMichelin star) also with García delMoral, for the culinary use of liquidnitrogen.To reflect what was going on inkitchens and laboratories in Spain andthe world in general, in 2004 the firstinterdisciplinary meeting on molecularcuisine was held in Spain. “What canscience teach cooking?” was the

question asked by chemists, chefs,physicists, sommeliers, food scientistsand other specialists at theUniversidad del Mar in Murcia(southeast Spain). Many of the famousnames were there: Adrià, Aduriz,García, Roca, This, Cassi, Castells (thechemist in charge of gastronomic andscientific research for the AlíciaFoundation). Since then, many othersimilar and equally successful meetingshave been held.

The elBulli methodChefs have always created new dishes;it forms part of their job. But they havebeen doing it in their restaurants,without moving away from theproduction process and often beingcreative for practical reasons (toreplace certain ingredients, to useproducts that would otherwise bewasted, to save time, etc.).But in late 1998, Oriol Castro andAlbert Adrià, the research team atelBulli, separated creativity fromproduction, creating the first culinaryresearch workshop.

“We had always created dishes,”explains Ferran Adrià, “but we did it inthe kitchen. But then things reachedbursting point. We were bringing outso many new recipes that we had toseparate the innovative part from theeveryday cooking for the restaurant.”At the start, Oriol and Albertcontinued to work on the samepremises as the rest of the team, butthen they moved to Talaia (therestaurant managed by the elBulli teamin Barcelona) until 2000. It was thenthat the elBulli laboratory was opened,with a team of six or seven peopleworking exclusively on productresearch and creative development.“From then on, everything becameeven more complicated and the teambecame multidisciplinary. Eventually,the scientific workshop under PereCastells had to go its own way becauseof the costs involved, and becausethere was not much point in itsworking for a single restaurant. Thatwas when we set up the AlíciaFoundation (Alimentación y Ciencia,Food and Science; Leadingorganizations, page 62), which is

open to any chefs who want to comealong.”Alícia is an atypical research center. PereCastells, who is in charge of itsgastronomic and scientific researchdepartment, explains what makes itdifferent. “Here, science is at the serviceof cooking, not the other way round as,for example, in the case of Hervé This.In Spain, it’s the chefs that decide andthe scientists are here to find the tools,the solutions the chefs need.”Today the members of the elBullicreative team under Ferran Adrià areOriol Castro (at elBulli since 1996),Eduard Xatruch (since 1998), MateuCasañas and Eugeni de Diego, fourchefs who work as required withdesigners, chemists, biologists, etc.From the start they have alwaysfollowed a scientific working method:everything is weighed, measured,tested, noted down.“To tell the truth,” says Adrià, “itdoesn’t surprise me that there are sofew restaurants in the world with theirown workshops, separate from therestaurant. It’s tremendouslyexpensive. The annual cost is no less


05 I+D AF.qxd 24/11/09 21:10 Página 54


collaboration between chefs andscientists has never stopped.It was in the 1980s that it reallyblossomed. The parents of moleculargastronomy, French physical chemistHervé This, a professor at theSorbonne, and Hungarian-born UKresident Nicholas Kurti (who, back in1969, had given a lecture at London’sRoyal Society entitled “The Physicist inthe Kitchen”) announced that theyintended to place science at the serviceof culinary creativity in the search fornew flavors, textures and gastronomicexperiences. They thus laid thefoundations for part of contemporarycooking.Almost at the same time, in 1984,professor Harold McGee published OnFood and Cooking: The Science and Loreof the Kitchen, the bible for many achef, which has now been translatedinto numerous languages, includingSpanish.And it was during this same decadethat Ferran Adrià and his team startedto open up new paths in collaborationwith scientists at lightning speed. Hiswork was imitated by several Spanish

chefs, and together they formed amovement that set trends all over theworld.Many subsequent events backed theirinitiatives. In 2005 in Italy, physicistDavide Cassi and chef Ettore Bocchiapublished “Manifesto della CucinaMolecolare Italiana”, helping coin theterm “molecular cuisine”.And, in spite of much confusion andcontroversy, the movement that relatesscience to cuisine has adopted thisname internationally. All itsparticipants, whether they accept thelabel or not, maintain that once youunderstand the changes that take placein food, the only limits to cooking areset by the palate and the eye, and thatthe interaction between science andcuisine can be very beneficial for both.In this context, the huge creativity ofSpanish chefs propelled them into thelead of this international movement.But they are not alone there. Otherchefs such as Heston Blumenthal,Pierre Gagnaire, Grant Achatz andMassimo Bottura are all working alongsimilar lines.Although molecular cuisine first

sparked the interest of Ferran Adriàback in the 1980s, his research made alasting mark on the internationalscene, where he is still todayconsidered the leader, and in Spain,because he was followed by chefs suchas Joan Roca (El Celler de Can Roca,three Michelin stars), who, in the early‘90s, started to experiment with lowtemperature cooking and eventuallycreated the Roner thermostat (SpainGourmetour, No. 73).In the 21st century the movementspread, with landmarks being set byAndoni Aduriz (Mugaritz, threeMichelin stars) in collaboration withGranada University professor ofpathological anatomy RaimundoGarcía del Moral for their work on foiegras, and by Dani García (Calima, oneMichelin star) also with García delMoral, for the culinary use of liquidnitrogen.To reflect what was going on inkitchens and laboratories in Spain andthe world in general, in 2004 the firstinterdisciplinary meeting on molecularcuisine was held in Spain. “What canscience teach cooking?” was the

question asked by chemists, chefs,physicists, sommeliers, food scientistsand other specialists at theUniversidad del Mar in Murcia(southeast Spain). Many of the famousnames were there: Adrià, Aduriz,García, Roca, This, Cassi, Castells (thechemist in charge of gastronomic andscientific research for the AlíciaFoundation). Since then, many othersimilar and equally successful meetingshave been held.

The elBulli methodChefs have always created new dishes;it forms part of their job. But they havebeen doing it in their restaurants,without moving away from theproduction process and often beingcreative for practical reasons (toreplace certain ingredients, to useproducts that would otherwise bewasted, to save time, etc.).But in late 1998, Oriol Castro andAlbert Adrià, the research team atelBulli, separated creativity fromproduction, creating the first culinaryresearch workshop.

“We had always created dishes,”explains Ferran Adrià, “but we did it inthe kitchen. But then things reachedbursting point. We were bringing outso many new recipes that we had toseparate the innovative part from theeveryday cooking for the restaurant.”At the start, Oriol and Albertcontinued to work on the samepremises as the rest of the team, butthen they moved to Talaia (therestaurant managed by the elBulli teamin Barcelona) until 2000. It was thenthat the elBulli laboratory was opened,with a team of six or seven peopleworking exclusively on productresearch and creative development.“From then on, everything becameeven more complicated and the teambecame multidisciplinary. Eventually,the scientific workshop under PereCastells had to go its own way becauseof the costs involved, and becausethere was not much point in itsworking for a single restaurant. Thatwas when we set up the AlíciaFoundation (Alimentación y Ciencia,Food and Science; Leadingorganizations, page 62), which is

open to any chefs who want to comealong.”Alícia is an atypical research center. PereCastells, who is in charge of itsgastronomic and scientific researchdepartment, explains what makes itdifferent. “Here, science is at the serviceof cooking, not the other way round as,for example, in the case of Hervé This.In Spain, it’s the chefs that decide andthe scientists are here to find the tools,the solutions the chefs need.”Today the members of the elBullicreative team under Ferran Adrià areOriol Castro (at elBulli since 1996),Eduard Xatruch (since 1998), MateuCasañas and Eugeni de Diego, fourchefs who work as required withdesigners, chemists, biologists, etc.From the start they have alwaysfollowed a scientific working method:everything is weighed, measured,tested, noted down.“To tell the truth,” says Adrià, “itdoesn’t surprise me that there are sofew restaurants in the world with theirown workshops, separate from therestaurant. It’s tremendouslyexpensive. The annual cost is no less


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CULINARYFARE

than 250,000 euros, so the best way ofdoing things is in collaboration withuniversities and research centers.Basically, what you really need incooking are ideas, creativity. Scienceand techniques are just there as aback-up, allowing chefs to converttheir dreams into reality. A means,never an end in themselves.”Although Spain continues in the leadin so-called “scientific cooking” (aterm Adrià rejects) and the techniquesdeveloped by Spanish chefs (foams,airs, spherification, veils, distillates,smoke) are now used by hundreds oftheir colleagues all over the world,from Denmark to Australia, in 2007elBulli changed its strategy. The focuson creativity turned back to products.“From 2003 to 2006 we wereworking on hydrocolloids, magicalsubstances that allowed us to achievefantastic changes in food textures,”explains Adrià. “It was a greatexperience, but then we analyzedwhat we had done and found wecould go no further. We had hopedfor more, but we came to a dead endand had to focus once more onproducts. In this field Xatruch isamazing. He knows everything: heknows the producers, the varieties,what you can do with every type ofproduct. Since 2008, we’ve beenworking with products from Japan,following the same method that we’vealways used. We take a product andexperiment with it as far as we cango. It’s another way of researching,

creating. It’s very basic, but veryexciting.”

Eco-chefs andenvironmentalresearchNow that the mystique of technologyseems to have faded, chefs all over theworld have turned their attention toproducts from near and far to discover

everything they have to reveal. Eco-cuisine is now the talk of the town. Itsfollowers include Rene Redzepi(Noma, in Copenhagen), Dan Barber(Blue Hill, in New York) and PeterGilmore (Quay, in Sydney).This path was taken a while ago bysome chefs, such as Josean MartínezAlija (Restaurante Guggenheim, inBilbao). Instead of wearing a chemist-chef hat, he is more of a biologist-chef.His research aims above all to studythe culinary results of local produce,especially vegetables: leek, tomato,onion, cardoon, celery, teardrop peas,etc. He works with nearby growers,selecting varieties, watching over theplants and choosing sizes, producingvegetables à la carte. “A chef is not aresearcher and a kitchen is not alaboratory. What I want is light,healthy cooking, with the emphasis onflavor and aroma”, says Martínez Alija.“I search for the best possible producefor my dishes.” This is a new approachto luxury, one that rejects elitistproducts, preferring simple ingredientstreated in just the right way to bringout maximum flavor and texture. TheGuggenheim restaurant’s creative teamincludes chefs, biologists and foodscientists, five of them in total, allworking on tracking down andcomparing the best products.Rodrigo de la Calle (De la Calle, inAranjuez, close to Madrid) is anotherof the young eco-chefs and iscommitted to sustainable cuisine andenvironmental research. He works


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CULINARYFARE

than 250,000 euros, so the best way ofdoing things is in collaboration withuniversities and research centers.Basically, what you really need incooking are ideas, creativity. Scienceand techniques are just there as aback-up, allowing chefs to converttheir dreams into reality. A means,never an end in themselves.”Although Spain continues in the leadin so-called “scientific cooking” (aterm Adrià rejects) and the techniquesdeveloped by Spanish chefs (foams,airs, spherification, veils, distillates,smoke) are now used by hundreds oftheir colleagues all over the world,from Denmark to Australia, in 2007elBulli changed its strategy. The focuson creativity turned back to products.“From 2003 to 2006 we wereworking on hydrocolloids, magicalsubstances that allowed us to achievefantastic changes in food textures,”explains Adrià. “It was a greatexperience, but then we analyzedwhat we had done and found wecould go no further. We had hopedfor more, but we came to a dead endand had to focus once more onproducts. In this field Xatruch isamazing. He knows everything: heknows the producers, the varieties,what you can do with every type ofproduct. Since 2008, we’ve beenworking with products from Japan,following the same method that we’vealways used. We take a product andexperiment with it as far as we cango. It’s another way of researching,

creating. It’s very basic, but veryexciting.”

Eco-chefs andenvironmentalresearchNow that the mystique of technologyseems to have faded, chefs all over theworld have turned their attention toproducts from near and far to discover

everything they have to reveal. Eco-cuisine is now the talk of the town. Itsfollowers include Rene Redzepi(Noma, in Copenhagen), Dan Barber(Blue Hill, in New York) and PeterGilmore (Quay, in Sydney).This path was taken a while ago bysome chefs, such as Josean MartínezAlija (Restaurante Guggenheim, inBilbao). Instead of wearing a chemist-chef hat, he is more of a biologist-chef.His research aims above all to studythe culinary results of local produce,especially vegetables: leek, tomato,onion, cardoon, celery, teardrop peas,etc. He works with nearby growers,selecting varieties, watching over theplants and choosing sizes, producingvegetables à la carte. “A chef is not aresearcher and a kitchen is not alaboratory. What I want is light,healthy cooking, with the emphasis onflavor and aroma”, says Martínez Alija.“I search for the best possible producefor my dishes.” This is a new approachto luxury, one that rejects elitistproducts, preferring simple ingredientstreated in just the right way to bringout maximum flavor and texture. TheGuggenheim restaurant’s creative teamincludes chefs, biologists and foodscientists, five of them in total, allworking on tracking down andcomparing the best products.Rodrigo de la Calle (De la Calle, inAranjuez, close to Madrid) is anotherof the young eco-chefs and iscommitted to sustainable cuisine andenvironmental research. He works


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and development and the future ofcuisine intertwined with otherdisciplines.By way of written proof of theimportant role Spain has been playingin haute cuisine in recent years, Adurizhas embarked on an exciting projectfor a gastronomic and scientific journalto be produced in collaboration withthe prestigious publishing houseElsevier, and AZTI-Tecnalia(Technological Center for the Sea andFood, located in the Basque Country,in northern Spain) and Alícia. If allgoes as planned, the first issue shouldcome out in the first quarter of 2010.The idea is to offer gastronomicinformation and culture to aninternational readership of not justchefs but also scientists. Since 2006,Aduriz has been working with AZTI-Tecnalia on the publication of abulletin on science and gastronomy,available atwww.cienciaygastronomia.com.“It is both surprising and encouragingto see how cuisine is finding a place inscientific circles,” explains Aduriz. “Afew months ago I had the opportunityto talk to some scientists who had wonSpain’s Prince of Asturias Award. Theytold me they were fascinated by thelinks between the brain and food andfelt it was a very promising area ofresearch for the future.”At Mugaritz, research anddevelopment are key driving forces.Aduriz has created a following in Spainand elsewhere. “The more you do, themore difficult things get. I’m very slow.I can take up to four years to finalize adish, and this gives rise to problems



CULINARYFARE

alongside Santiago Orts, a biologistand the owner of Viveros Huerto delCura (a nursery mostly growing palmtrees located in Elche, in easternSpain). Together they have carried outsome interesting work, what they call“datology”, the use of dates in cuisine,and “gastrobotany”, the culinary use of“desert vegetables”, those that grow inextremely dry conditions and take onunexpected qualities once cooked. “Idon’t have a workshop, nor could Iafford it. What I do is field work. Istarted out with Orts in Elche, butnow I’ve started some projects in theAranjuez valley where my restaurant islocated. The idea is to recover andrelaunch some of Madrid’s besttraditional crops: strawberries,asparagus,” says De la Calle.Along these same lines is the researchcarried out by other chefs, such as

Paco Roncero, who has studied oliveoil (Spain Gourmetour No. 72); MaríaJosé San Román and her analysis ofhow saffron behaves in differentconditions (Spain Gourmetour No. 74);Koldo Rodero with red cardoon andother vegetables from the Navarranmarket gardens; and Angel León andhis studies into marine plankton.

Research andabstractionProducts were also the starting pointfor Quique Dacosta (El Poblet, threeMichelin stars, in Denia). He did somemagnificent work on rice and laid itout in a book called just that, Rice; healso studied aloe vera, Steviarebaudiana and microgreens andsprouts. Sometimes research goes sofar as to inspire new icons. The final

objective of such creative digressions isaesthetic beauty, the pure pleasure ofseeing and tasting. That is whenproducts take on a different purpose,being transformed and becomingminerals, landscapes, paintings, all thewhile retaining every bit of their flavor,aroma and texture. This complexity isneither frequent nor common, but itoccasionally appears. It is this searchfor magic that inspires the creativework done by Dacosta and his team.“What we have is more of a creativestudio than a scientific or researchworkshop,” he explains. “Chefs arechefs, not scientists. Science is one ofthe tools we can use, but we try not tobe dogmatic about it.” The studio hasexisted physically at El Poblet since2006, when it moved out of therestaurant. Heading it is JuanfranValiente, who has worked with

Dacosta for ten years. The last fewyears have seen many advances,especially in new lines for culinaryexpression based on artisticmovements such as essentialism,mimicry and expressionism applied tocuisine. He admits: “There are very fewcooks in the world who really doresearch. It’s too expensive andcompletely new paths are difficult tofind. But you never know whatworking with scientists and researchersmight lead to. It’s really fascinating!”This opinion is shared by Juan MariArzak (Arzak, three Michelin stars, inSan Sebastian), who continues tocreate dishes together with hisdaughter and Xabier Gutierrez (SpainGourmetour No. 73). “A lifetime ofcooking goes a long way, but it’simportant to never lose curiosity andinterest in what you are doing. That’s

what pushes you to cross newboundaries and pay attention topeople coming along with new ideas,”says this master of chefs.

IntellectualcommitmentAndoni L. Aduriz has always been infavor of linking gastronomy with otherdisciplines—art, mathematics,psychology—perhaps with theintuition that this might give addeddignity to cooking. This non-conformist approach was made plainat the Dialogues on Cuisine congressthat he established. Held in early 2009in San Sebastian under the auspices ofEuro-Toques (the Europeancommunity of chefs), prestigiousspeakers (both chefs and intellectuals)discussed the current state of research


05 I+D AF.qxd 24/11/09 21:11 Página 58

and development and the future ofcuisine intertwined with otherdisciplines.By way of written proof of theimportant role Spain has been playingin haute cuisine in recent years, Adurizhas embarked on an exciting projectfor a gastronomic and scientific journalto be produced in collaboration withthe prestigious publishing houseElsevier, and AZTI-Tecnalia(Technological Center for the Sea andFood, located in the Basque Country,in northern Spain) and Alícia. If allgoes as planned, the first issue shouldcome out in the first quarter of 2010.The idea is to offer gastronomicinformation and culture to aninternational readership of not justchefs but also scientists. Since 2006,Aduriz has been working with AZTI-Tecnalia on the publication of abulletin on science and gastronomy,available atwww.cienciaygastronomia.com.“It is both surprising and encouragingto see how cuisine is finding a place inscientific circles,” explains Aduriz. “Afew months ago I had the opportunityto talk to some scientists who had wonSpain’s Prince of Asturias Award. Theytold me they were fascinated by thelinks between the brain and food andfelt it was a very promising area ofresearch for the future.”At Mugaritz, research anddevelopment are key driving forces.Aduriz has created a following in Spainand elsewhere. “The more you do, themore difficult things get. I’m very slow.I can take up to four years to finalize adish, and this gives rise to problems



CULINARYFARE

alongside Santiago Orts, a biologistand the owner of Viveros Huerto delCura (a nursery mostly growing palmtrees located in Elche, in easternSpain). Together they have carried outsome interesting work, what they call“datology”, the use of dates in cuisine,and “gastrobotany”, the culinary use of“desert vegetables”, those that grow inextremely dry conditions and take onunexpected qualities once cooked. “Idon’t have a workshop, nor could Iafford it. What I do is field work. Istarted out with Orts in Elche, butnow I’ve started some projects in theAranjuez valley where my restaurant islocated. The idea is to recover andrelaunch some of Madrid’s besttraditional crops: strawberries,asparagus,” says De la Calle.Along these same lines is the researchcarried out by other chefs, such as

Paco Roncero, who has studied oliveoil (Spain Gourmetour No. 72); MaríaJosé San Román and her analysis ofhow saffron behaves in differentconditions (Spain Gourmetour No. 74);Koldo Rodero with red cardoon andother vegetables from the Navarranmarket gardens; and Angel León andhis studies into marine plankton.

Research andabstractionProducts were also the starting pointfor Quique Dacosta (El Poblet, threeMichelin stars, in Denia). He did somemagnificent work on rice and laid itout in a book called just that, Rice; healso studied aloe vera, Steviarebaudiana and microgreens andsprouts. Sometimes research goes sofar as to inspire new icons. The final

objective of such creative digressions isaesthetic beauty, the pure pleasure ofseeing and tasting. That is whenproducts take on a different purpose,being transformed and becomingminerals, landscapes, paintings, all thewhile retaining every bit of their flavor,aroma and texture. This complexity isneither frequent nor common, but itoccasionally appears. It is this searchfor magic that inspires the creativework done by Dacosta and his team.“What we have is more of a creativestudio than a scientific or researchworkshop,” he explains. “Chefs arechefs, not scientists. Science is one ofthe tools we can use, but we try not tobe dogmatic about it.” The studio hasexisted physically at El Poblet since2006, when it moved out of therestaurant. Heading it is JuanfranValiente, who has worked with

Dacosta for ten years. The last fewyears have seen many advances,especially in new lines for culinaryexpression based on artisticmovements such as essentialism,mimicry and expressionism applied tocuisine. He admits: “There are very fewcooks in the world who really doresearch. It’s too expensive andcompletely new paths are difficult tofind. But you never know whatworking with scientists and researchersmight lead to. It’s really fascinating!”This opinion is shared by Juan MariArzak (Arzak, three Michelin stars, inSan Sebastian), who continues tocreate dishes together with hisdaughter and Xabier Gutierrez (SpainGourmetour No. 73). “A lifetime ofcooking goes a long way, but it’simportant to never lose curiosity andinterest in what you are doing. That’s

what pushes you to cross newboundaries and pay attention topeople coming along with new ideas,”says this master of chefs.

IntellectualcommitmentAndoni L. Aduriz has always been infavor of linking gastronomy with otherdisciplines—art, mathematics,psychology—perhaps with theintuition that this might give addeddignity to cooking. This non-conformist approach was made plainat the Dialogues on Cuisine congressthat he established. Held in early 2009in San Sebastian under the auspices ofEuro-Toques (the Europeancommunity of chefs), prestigiousspeakers (both chefs and intellectuals)discussed the current state of research









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07 MANGO AF.qxd 19/11/09 17:23 Página 64

TROPICAL

Mango and PapayaFor centuries, mango and papaya plantshave been an exotic, ornamentalpresence in the gardens of the well-to-do in the Canary Islands (the Spanisharchipelago that sits in the Atlantic,opposite the northwest coast of Africa)and Málaga (southern Spain), their

Waking up to Fruit

headily fragrant fruits with their richorange flesh providing the householderwith the occasional delicious treat. Inthe 1980s, however, trailblazing farmerswith a good eye for developing marketsrecognized their potential and startedgrowing them as a commercial crop.

07 MANGO IN_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/11/09 10:07 Página 64 (INGLES plancha)


TROPICAL

Mango and PapayaFor centuries, mango and papaya plantshave been an exotic, ornamentalpresence in the gardens of the well-to-do in the Canary Islands (the Spanisharchipelago that sits in the Atlantic,opposite the northwest coast of Africa)and Málaga (southern Spain), their

Waking up to Fruit

headily fragrant fruits with their richorange flesh providing the householderwith the occasional delicious treat. Inthe 1980s, however, trailblazing farmerswith a good eye for developing marketsrecognized their potential and startedgrowing them as a commercial crop.


07 MANGO AF.qxd 19/11/09 17:24 Página 6608 MIEL AF.qxd 24/11/09 20:00 Página 78


One wakes up in the Canary Islands tosea air with its iodine tang; a backdropof bitter green banana palms andrustling, pine-clad hillsides; andpapaya juice and mango fruit salad forbreakfast. Equivalent impressions ofthe Málaga coast are of an intenselyblue sky above a vivid green expanseof mango plantations carpeting thegentle lower slopes of the Sierras deMálaga mountains.Papayas and mangoes arrived incoastal Spain from the distant tropicsin the 18th century, a period whenSpain’s possessions still extended overfour continents, an empire on whichthe sun never set. The first mangoeswere brought in on galleons from thePhilippines (though the speciesoriginated in India), and papayas onmerchant ships from the Americas.For 200 years, papayas (which growfrom the trunk of attractive, eleganttrees) and mangoes (which hang,earring-like, from goblet-shapedbushes), led a sheltered life in gardensand orchards, acquiring particularcharacteristics from Atlantic influencesin the case of the Canaries, andMediterranean ones in the case ofcoastal Málaga.

From garden tomarketplaceIn the almost tropical climate that bothareas enjoy, the papaya and mangotrees that once graced local gardenshave successfully transmuted intocultivars grown in protectedgreenhouses in the Canaries and open-air plantations in Málaga.According to Antonio Sarmiento, oneof the farmers who pioneered mango

production in Málaga, he and his co-growers made the major moves thatthis entailed for one simple reason: “Itwas love!” Antonio remembers tastingmango for the first time, over 25 yearsago, and thinking to himself “This isjust delicious!” From that day on, hehas eaten a mango every morningwithout fail, a fact to which heattributes his excellent health at 77years of age. He is still fully involved inthe daily running of his farm, locatedin Benamocarra, on one of the south-facing slopes of the Tejera and Almijaramountain ranges. Sarmiento explainsthat the varieties most commonlygrown around here are Osteen, Kentand Keitt, known for their melt-in-the-mouth flesh, citrus aromas andoutstanding sweetness. Thesemangoes’ reddish-purple skins gleamin the sun from first thing in themorning during the harvest months(September and October),embellishing the Vélez-Málaga toBenamargosa stretch of the roadthrough Axarquía (a district ineasternmost Málaga province).

Antonio observes that, for the mostpart, mangoes were something of ahobby for farmers whose main cropwas something quite different but whowere convinced that that these exoticfruits had a promising future. His sonDavid, who has a degree in agriculturalengineering, points out that thisproved to be a beneficial arrangementin that the special attention lavishedon the more picturesque sideline hasproduced a mango that is verydistinctive, and recognizably Spanish.David Sarmiento believes that Spanishmangoes are discernibly different inflavor and aroma because they areharvested almost as soon as they ripenon the plant: as a result, they contain ahigher percentage of sugar than anyothers in the European marketplace.Spanish mangoes can reach 20 degreesBrix, compared with the 12 or 14degrees found in fruits coming intoEurope from other sources andharvested before they are ripe.Furthermore, Spanish mangoes are theonly ones in the world that reach themarketplace clad in their own waxencoat (a natural protective layer secretedby the fruit itself), and therefore notwashed or treated with ediblevarnishes or fungicides. “It’scompletely natural,” comments Davidas he takes us through the elaborateprocess that enables these punctiliousproducers to present their product justas nature intended.Mangoes are picked from the tree oneby one; their stalks are cut off then andthere, and the fruit is meticulouslypositioned upside down on the groundto release the latex or sap that wouldotherwise stain their velvety skin. Afteran hour and a half, they are put intocrates and transported to the packing

MANGO AND PAPAYA

CULINARYFARE

TEXTYANET ACOSTA/©ICEX

PHOTOSJUAN MANUEL SANZ/©ICEX

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD/©ICEX



HONEY

FOODBASICS

TEXTSANTIAGO SÁNCHEZ

SEGURA/©ICEX



outlined above. They also analyze forpollen content, a service particularlyrelevant to current consumerpreferences. There is an ever-increasingmarket demand for monofloral honeys(i.e. honeys made from nectar derivedfrom one specific type of flower), andthe laboratory analyses make it possiblefor the concentration of pollen fromspecified plants present in the honey tobe expressed as a percentage.Established minimum levels of theseparameters must be met for a honey tobe categorized within a specific variety(Essence of place, page 82).“Classification of honey by provenanceand plant origin helps us produce agenuine and distinctive product,”declares José Orantes, president of theRegulatory Council of PDO Miel deGranada, “and it gives consumers awider choice. They can choose from arange of varieties, all of which haveparticular characteristics that aredetermined by the base nectar, andthere’s an official stamp that guaranteesthat they are getting the genuine article.”

unstintingly cooperative bees (aqualified and dedicated workforce), andthousands of years of experience in beehusbandry, it is reasonable to expectstandards to be high. Yet, thebeekeeper’s primary brief, namely, not tospoil the honey, is disarmingly simple.Good honey is free from extraneoussmells and physical impurities; remainsfresh (aging is always detrimental tohoney, unlike wine and cheese); doesnot ferment (which is why it isimportant that moisture levels be keptlow); and crystallizes in a particular way.As a sugar-saturated solution, honeycrystallizes very readily, though this isnot true of many industrially-producedhoneys which are liquefied bypasteurization, losing many of theiraromas and original attributes in theprocess.Laboratories such as the Centro Agrarioin Marchamalo (serving PDO Miel de LaAlcarria) and its equivalent in Apinevada(serving PDO Miel de Granada) conductphysicochemical tests before certifyingthat honey bearing their stamp meetsthe required standards in the aspects

All good quality honey encapsulates adirect link with its area of provenance,transmitted through the medium ofthe flora whose essence is imbibed bythe bees that make it. The range ofhoneys that Spain produces couldtherefore be seen as a gastronomicreflection of the country’s diversebotany, topography and climate. Thecentral plateau, the eastern coastalregion of Levante, and the south of theIberian Peninsula all produce pale,aromatic honeys, whereas honeys fromthe mountainous areas of the north aredark and rich; orange blossom honeysmacks of the Mediterranean, whilethere is a suitably woody flavor tohoney from the holm oak forests ofExtremadura (where two producingareas, Villuercas and Ibores, are in theprocess of acquiring DO status);delicious curiosities include Tenerife’stajinaste honey, derived from a plantendemic to the Canary Islands anddeclared by Spanish food expert JoséCarlos Capel to be “one of the besthoneys in the world”.Given this wealth of raw material,

Honey hoarders“La Alcarria is a beautiful part of thecountry that people can’t be botheredto go to [...] It is particularly variedand, with the exception of honey,which is bought up by hoarders, it hasjust about everything.” This quotationfrom Spain’s Nobel Prize for literaturewinner Camilo José Cela (1926-2002)is taken from his travel book Viaje a LaAlcarria (Journey to Alcarria),published in 1948, which he dedicatesto the area itself. Years later (in 1991),this same part of La Mancha (central

Spain) became the first area in Spain toobtain PDO status for its honey. Thebarbed comment about the non-availability of Alcarria’s star product(which the book’s protagonist, DonCamilo, tries but fails to samplethroughout his journey) is stillapplicable today to some extent.Although present-day visitors to LaAlcarria will find honey in readysupply, “hoarders” in the form of thedomestic market and, particularly, thecity of Madrid (which is just 50 km /31 mi away from this area’s westernedge) are primarily responsible for the

fact that a product with such a well-earned reputation throughout Spain isvirtually unknown elsewhere. AnySpaniard will tell you that La Alcarriahoney is the best there is, yet youwould have trouble finding any on theinternational market, not because oflack of foreign demand, but becauseproduction is absorbed entirely bySpain’s domestic market, which isgiven priority over a wider clientele.When I asked the local beekeepersabout this, the response was, inessence: “It sells as fast as we can get itinto jars.” Some have made attempts to

08 MIEL IN_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/11/09 20:23 Página 78 (INGLES plancha)



One wakes up in the Canary Islands tosea air with its iodine tang; a backdropof bitter green banana palms andrustling, pine-clad hillsides; andpapaya juice and mango fruit salad forbreakfast. Equivalent impressions ofthe Málaga coast are of an intenselyblue sky above a vivid green expanseof mango plantations carpeting thegentle lower slopes of the Sierras deMálaga mountains.Papayas and mangoes arrived incoastal Spain from the distant tropicsin the 18th century, a period whenSpain’s possessions still extended overfour continents, an empire on whichthe sun never set. The first mangoeswere brought in on galleons from thePhilippines (though the speciesoriginated in India), and papayas onmerchant ships from the Americas.For 200 years, papayas (which growfrom the trunk of attractive, eleganttrees) and mangoes (which hang,earring-like, from goblet-shapedbushes), led a sheltered life in gardensand orchards, acquiring particularcharacteristics from Atlantic influencesin the case of the Canaries, andMediterranean ones in the case ofcoastal Málaga.

From garden tomarketplaceIn the almost tropical climate that bothareas enjoy, the papaya and mangotrees that once graced local gardenshave successfully transmuted intocultivars grown in protectedgreenhouses in the Canaries and open-air plantations in Málaga.According to Antonio Sarmiento, oneof the farmers who pioneered mango

production in Málaga, he and his co-growers made the major moves thatthis entailed for one simple reason: “Itwas love!” Antonio remembers tastingmango for the first time, over 25 yearsago, and thinking to himself “This isjust delicious!” From that day on, hehas eaten a mango every morningwithout fail, a fact to which heattributes his excellent health at 77years of age. He is still fully involved inthe daily running of his farm, locatedin Benamocarra, on one of the south-facing slopes of the Tejera and Almijaramountain ranges. Sarmiento explainsthat the varieties most commonlygrown around here are Osteen, Kentand Keitt, known for their melt-in-the-mouth flesh, citrus aromas andoutstanding sweetness. Thesemangoes’ reddish-purple skins gleamin the sun from first thing in themorning during the harvest months(September and October),embellishing the Vélez-Málaga toBenamargosa stretch of the roadthrough Axarquía (a district ineasternmost Málaga province).

Antonio observes that, for the mostpart, mangoes were something of ahobby for farmers whose main cropwas something quite different but whowere convinced that that these exoticfruits had a promising future. His sonDavid, who has a degree in agriculturalengineering, points out that thisproved to be a beneficial arrangementin that the special attention lavishedon the more picturesque sideline hasproduced a mango that is verydistinctive, and recognizably Spanish.David Sarmiento believes that Spanishmangoes are discernibly different inflavor and aroma because they areharvested almost as soon as they ripenon the plant: as a result, they contain ahigher percentage of sugar than anyothers in the European marketplace.Spanish mangoes can reach 20 degreesBrix, compared with the 12 or 14degrees found in fruits coming intoEurope from other sources andharvested before they are ripe.Furthermore, Spanish mangoes are theonly ones in the world that reach themarketplace clad in their own waxencoat (a natural protective layer secretedby the fruit itself), and therefore notwashed or treated with ediblevarnishes or fungicides. “It’scompletely natural,” comments Davidas he takes us through the elaborateprocess that enables these punctiliousproducers to present their product justas nature intended.Mangoes are picked from the tree oneby one; their stalks are cut off then andthere, and the fruit is meticulouslypositioned upside down on the groundto release the latex or sap that wouldotherwise stain their velvety skin. Afteran hour and a half, they are put intocrates and transported to the packing

MANGO AND PAPAYA

CULINARYFARETEXT

YANET ACOSTA/©ICEX




MIEL08 MIEL AF.qxd 18/11/09 11:44 Página 7607 MANGO AF.qxd 24/11/09 20:37 Página 68

Sweet by Nature

HONEYSpain is the biggest producer of honey in the European Union and has more hives

than any other member country. Impressive though they are, these facts represent only

the dry, quantitative aspects of an altogether more complex and palatable story. The

diversity of Spain’s flora is reflected in a wealth of different types of honey, many of

which are still something of a national secret. This article visits three different parts of

the country that produce honey of guaranteed provenance and quality, backed by an

EU seal of approval. They’re just a sample–we think they’ll give you a taste for more.


plant in Vélez-Málaga. The plantbelongs to the Sociedad Agraria deTransformación, the agriculturalprocessing company better known asTROPS. Representing 1,100 farmers,TROPS is Spain’s biggest mangoproducer: it accounts for 80% of the10 million kg (22,046,226 lb) ofmangoes harvested in Spain each year.Much of the mango harvest isdispatched from TROPS to the mainmarkets in France, the UK andGermany, the fruit tucked into littleboxes amid blue cellophane paperwhich shows off the deep purple oftheir skins, perfect beneath theircoating of natural wax.TROPS’s manager, Enrique Colilles, isof the opinion that, within four to fiveyears, Spain’s mango production willhave doubled to keep pace with theever-increasing demand for thisseductive fruit, desirable not only forits delicious flavor but also for itshealth-giving properties and emergingculinary potential.

Tropical forestin the AtlanticMeanwhile, mangoes are doing just aswell in the Atlantic setting of theCanary Islands as they are inMediterranean Andalusia, with theadded bonus that papayas (anothertropical fruit whose career path in thewake of the mango’s is proving just assuccessful) are also growncommercially in the Canaries.On Tenerife (one of the seven islandsthat constitute the Canaryarchipelago), the greenhouses withinwhich most of the papaya productiontakes place are just a stone’s throwaway from tourist beaches and holidayhotels. With its hot, moist climate andmean temperature of 20ºC (68ºF), thiscoastal area of the Canaries is the onlypart of Spain where papayas aregrown.One can just make out the slendershapes of the papaya plants through

the greenhouses’ white stretchy fabric

walls. The papaya is a prolific plant: its

teardrop-shaped fruit grow out of the

main trunk all year round. Stepping

inside, one enters a sort of idealized

tropical forest, richly aromatic and

vividly green and decorative: no

wonder papayas are still such a feature

of local gardens and banana plantationperimeters.Ase Guren, manager of Aguadulce (anagricultural processing company set up30 years ago, based in the south ofTenerife Island) has been completelywon over by papayas. For many years,the company’s greenhouses were usedfor growing aromatic herbs andornamental plants, but they have nowbeen given over entirely to veritableforests of papayas. The currentproduction figure stands at around100,000 kg (220,462 lb) a year, all ofwhich is absorbed by the local marketat present. Ase’s ambition is to getpapayas to a wider public, and shebelieves that the best way of achievingthis is through cooperation among thefarmers. With that end in view, shebelongs to a group of producers whoare promoting the creation of a qualitybrand that will identify their fruit asPapaya de Canarias.


Spurred on by the propitiousclimatic conditions in theCanary Islands and southernSpain, new tropical andsubtropical fruit are being triedout as crops. Experiments withlychees and carambolas (starfruit) from the Far East, mameesfrom the Caribbean, pitaya(strawberry pear) from theAntilles and passion fruit fromSouth America are alreadyunder way in the Spanishcountryside.Lychees, or Chinesegooseberries, are recognizableby their deep pink skin,opalescent white flesh andsweet, delicate floral aroma.Generally eaten either fresh orpreserved in syrup, they arealso served with meat and fish.As their name suggests, starfruit are star-shaped and deep

yellow in color. They have a citrusflavor and are eaten either fresh or asan ingredient in vinaigrettes. Mameeshave hard, rough, brown skin yet theirflesh is creamy and delicious: they area marvelous smoothie ingredient andare also very successful in jams andsorbets. Pitayas are the fruit of acactus native to the Americas. On theoutside, they are an attractive pinkcolor, while the inside is white anddotted with little black seeds. Passionfruit have a crumpled outer skin withinwhich is a mass of hard seeds drapedin a gelatinous pulp whose powerful,slightly acidic floral flavor is what givesthis fruit its appeal.All these fruits are being grown tosatisfy the quirks of a market that isincreasingly eager for new tastesensations, which the “Europeantropics” are starting to satisfyabundantly.

L Y C H E E S A N D M O R E



plant in Vélez-Málaga. The plantbelongs to the Sociedad Agraria deTransformación, the agriculturalprocessing company better known asTROPS. Representing 1,100 farmers,TROPS is Spain’s biggest mangoproducer: it accounts for 80% of the10 million kg (22,046,226 lb) ofmangoes harvested in Spain each year.Much of the mango harvest isdispatched from TROPS to the mainmarkets in France, the UK andGermany, the fruit tucked into littleboxes amid blue cellophane paperwhich shows off the deep purple oftheir skins, perfect beneath theircoating of natural wax.TROPS’s manager, Enrique Colilles, isof the opinion that, within four to fiveyears, Spain’s mango production willhave doubled to keep pace with theever-increasing demand for thisseductive fruit, desirable not only forits delicious flavor but also for itshealth-giving properties and emergingculinary potential.

Tropical forestin the AtlanticMeanwhile, mangoes are doing just aswell in the Atlantic setting of theCanary Islands as they are inMediterranean Andalusia, with theadded bonus that papayas (anothertropical fruit whose career path in thewake of the mango’s is proving just assuccessful) are also growncommercially in the Canaries.On Tenerife (one of the seven islandsthat constitute the Canaryarchipelago), the greenhouses withinwhich most of the papaya productiontakes place are just a stone’s throwaway from tourist beaches and holidayhotels. With its hot, moist climate andmean temperature of 20ºC (68ºF), thiscoastal area of the Canaries is the onlypart of Spain where papayas aregrown.One can just make out the slendershapes of the papaya plants through

the greenhouses’ white stretchy fabric

walls. The papaya is a prolific plant: its

teardrop-shaped fruit grow out of the

main trunk all year round. Stepping

inside, one enters a sort of idealized

tropical forest, richly aromatic and

vividly green and decorative: no

wonder papayas are still such a feature

of local gardens and banana plantationperimeters.Ase Guren, manager of Aguadulce (anagricultural processing company set up30 years ago, based in the south ofTenerife Island) has been completelywon over by papayas. For many years,the company’s greenhouses were usedfor growing aromatic herbs andornamental plants, but they have nowbeen given over entirely to veritableforests of papayas. The currentproduction figure stands at around100,000 kg (220,462 lb) a year, all ofwhich is absorbed by the local marketat present. Ase’s ambition is to getpapayas to a wider public, and shebelieves that the best way of achievingthis is through cooperation among thefarmers. With that end in view, shebelongs to a group of producers whoare promoting the creation of a qualitybrand that will identify their fruit asPapaya de Canarias.


Spurred on by the propitiousclimatic conditions in theCanary Islands and southernSpain, new tropical andsubtropical fruit are being triedout as crops. Experiments withlychees and carambolas (starfruit) from the Far East, mameesfrom the Caribbean, pitaya(strawberry pear) from theAntilles and passion fruit fromSouth America are alreadyunder way in the Spanishcountryside.Lychees, or Chinesegooseberries, are recognizableby their deep pink skin,opalescent white flesh andsweet, delicate floral aroma.Generally eaten either fresh orpreserved in syrup, they arealso served with meat and fish.As their name suggests, starfruit are star-shaped and deep

yellow in color. They have a citrusflavor and are eaten either fresh or asan ingredient in vinaigrettes. Mameeshave hard, rough, brown skin yet theirflesh is creamy and delicious: they area marvelous smoothie ingredient andare also very successful in jams andsorbets. Pitayas are the fruit of acactus native to the Americas. On theoutside, they are an attractive pinkcolor, while the inside is white anddotted with little black seeds. Passionfruit have a crumpled outer skin withinwhich is a mass of hard seeds drapedin a gelatinous pulp whose powerful,slightly acidic floral flavor is what givesthis fruit its appeal.All these fruits are being grown tosatisfy the quirks of a market that isincreasingly eager for new tastesensations, which the “Europeantropics” are starting to satisfyabundantly.

L Y C H E E S A N D M O R E




the company’s motivating principle,which is: “To lead the field andanticipate market trends”.

Bombe surpriseThe heady scent of mango and thesensual sweetness of papaya leave fewpeople unmoved. Devotees includeSpain’s most famous chef, FerranAdrià. He has given creative expressionto his appreciation of mangoes inmany dishes, often using innovativetechniques such as spherification to doso. Spherification is a process thatcreates a thin gelatinous layer aroundliquids (by mixing calcium chlorideand alginate) so that they seem toexplode in the mouth. It is one of themost revolutionary techniques used bythe chef at three-Michelin-star elBulliin Roses (Girona, Catalonia), and canbe used to make mock caviar, gnocchiand ravioli. In fact, one of the firstdishes in which Adrià (SpainGourmetour No. 66) used thetechnique was mango juice ravioli.Adrià is not alone: other Spanish chefshave also been using mango in theirdishes for years. One notable exampleis José Carlos García (Spain GourmetourNo. 54), chef at Málaga’s Café de Paris(one Michelin star). His parents (therestaurant’s founders) are originallyfrom Rincon de la Victoria, a town inthe Axarquía area of Málaga that is thehub of Spain’s mango production.Encarna and Pepe used to servemangoes simply as seasonal fresh fruitor made into a refreshing sorbet, butJosé Carlos García takes a moreadventurous approach and uses themin savory dishes in summer “...becausethey’re so close at hand”. This youngchef likes to cook according to what isin the market at the moment, and givehis own inspiration free rein; he lovesthe fresh taste of mango, its nicelybalanced acidity and the way itresponds to griddle cooking. One of

Other like-minded farmers includeFélix Molina of Cuplamol. For someyears now he has been growingvarieties other than Maradol, the mostcommon variety in the Canaries. Hehas been working with Silouet andIntenzza, which, as he reports, comeout higher on the Brix scale. The newvarieties’ fruit are quite distinctive intaste and smell: clean and fresh in themouth with hints of mint in the case ofIntenzza and jasmine in the case ofSilouet. Félix’s pride in his results ispatent as he shows us examples of thefruit; he is confident that theinternational market is ready andwaiting for papayas of this kind. Forthe moment, however, sales beyondthe Canary Islands are little more thantoken.Tenerife-born brothers Pipo and Adánare promoting the planting of newvarieties from within their company,Semillas del Caribe. In their view, inaddition to the fruit’s organolepticcharacteristics and shiny orange skins,their plus points include an inbuiltresilience to minor bumps and thewear and tear that transport inevitablyinvolves, making them a suitable cropfor export. The brothers represent anew wave in a movement begun bypioneers like Miguel González, one ofthe earliest nursery growers in theCanary Islands to breed rootstocks ofpapaya and mango nearly 30 yearsago. He is a keen botanist, as is his sonZebenzui; consequently, they havebuilt up a wide-ranging collection ofthese fruit trees, extending their sphereof interest to include new tropical treessuch as mamees, lychees, carambolas(star fruit) and passion fruit. A strollaround the greenhouses at theircompany HQ, La Cosma, in the littleTenerife town of Bajamar (in thenortheast of the island) is like a visit toan exotic botanic garden, sheltered bymountains yet benefiting from themoisture that reaches it from the

nearby sea. Miguel believes that moreand more hotels in these tourist-orientated islands are starting to enjoyand capitalize on the distinction of notonly stunningly beautifulsurroundings, but also dishes and fruitthat only these islands can offer andthat leave an enduring impression onvisitors.Indeed, hotel complexes are amongthe main customers of Savasa, aTenerife company that producesbananas and other tropical fruit suchas mango, papaya and pineapple.Their greenhouses, located right at thesea’s edge in Buenavista (in the northof the island), produce 16,000 kg(35,273 lb) of mangoes and 60,000 kg(132,277 lb) of pineapples a year. Thetown slopes gently down towards theAtlantic from the Macizo de Tenomountains and possesses amicroclimate that its inhabitants sweargives its fruit a special flavor. Themean temperature around here is 20ºC(68ºF) all year round, which allows thefruit to ripen slowly, the rhythm set bythe beating of the waves whose foamdrifts up as far as the fabric of thegreenhouses. As he darts about theestate, Savasa’s technical expert, JuanCarlos Hernández, seems to embody




the company’s motivating principle,which is: “To lead the field andanticipate market trends”.

Bombe surpriseThe heady scent of mango and thesensual sweetness of papaya leave fewpeople unmoved. Devotees includeSpain’s most famous chef, FerranAdrià. He has given creative expressionto his appreciation of mangoes inmany dishes, often using innovativetechniques such as spherification to doso. Spherification is a process thatcreates a thin gelatinous layer aroundliquids (by mixing calcium chlorideand alginate) so that they seem toexplode in the mouth. It is one of themost revolutionary techniques used bythe chef at three-Michelin-star elBulliin Roses (Girona, Catalonia), and canbe used to make mock caviar, gnocchiand ravioli. In fact, one of the firstdishes in which Adrià (SpainGourmetour No. 66) used thetechnique was mango juice ravioli.Adrià is not alone: other Spanish chefshave also been using mango in theirdishes for years. One notable exampleis José Carlos García (Spain GourmetourNo. 54), chef at Málaga’s Café de Paris(one Michelin star). His parents (therestaurant’s founders) are originallyfrom Rincon de la Victoria, a town inthe Axarquía area of Málaga that is thehub of Spain’s mango production.Encarna and Pepe used to servemangoes simply as seasonal fresh fruitor made into a refreshing sorbet, butJosé Carlos García takes a moreadventurous approach and uses themin savory dishes in summer “...becausethey’re so close at hand”. This youngchef likes to cook according to what isin the market at the moment, and givehis own inspiration free rein; he lovesthe fresh taste of mango, its nicelybalanced acidity and the way itresponds to griddle cooking. One of

Other like-minded farmers includeFélix Molina of Cuplamol. For someyears now he has been growingvarieties other than Maradol, the mostcommon variety in the Canaries. Hehas been working with Silouet andIntenzza, which, as he reports, comeout higher on the Brix scale. The newvarieties’ fruit are quite distinctive intaste and smell: clean and fresh in themouth with hints of mint in the case ofIntenzza and jasmine in the case ofSilouet. Félix’s pride in his results ispatent as he shows us examples of thefruit; he is confident that theinternational market is ready andwaiting for papayas of this kind. Forthe moment, however, sales beyondthe Canary Islands are little more thantoken.Tenerife-born brothers Pipo and Adánare promoting the planting of newvarieties from within their company,Semillas del Caribe. In their view, inaddition to the fruit’s organolepticcharacteristics and shiny orange skins,their plus points include an inbuiltresilience to minor bumps and thewear and tear that transport inevitablyinvolves, making them a suitable cropfor export. The brothers represent anew wave in a movement begun bypioneers like Miguel González, one ofthe earliest nursery growers in theCanary Islands to breed rootstocks ofpapaya and mango nearly 30 yearsago. He is a keen botanist, as is his sonZebenzui; consequently, they havebuilt up a wide-ranging collection ofthese fruit trees, extending their sphereof interest to include new tropical treessuch as mamees, lychees, carambolas(star fruit) and passion fruit. A strollaround the greenhouses at theircompany HQ, La Cosma, in the littleTenerife town of Bajamar (in thenortheast of the island) is like a visit toan exotic botanic garden, sheltered bymountains yet benefiting from themoisture that reaches it from the

nearby sea. Miguel believes that moreand more hotels in these tourist-orientated islands are starting to enjoyand capitalize on the distinction of notonly stunningly beautifulsurroundings, but also dishes and fruitthat only these islands can offer andthat leave an enduring impression onvisitors.Indeed, hotel complexes are amongthe main customers of Savasa, aTenerife company that producesbananas and other tropical fruit suchas mango, papaya and pineapple.Their greenhouses, located right at thesea’s edge in Buenavista (in the northof the island), produce 16,000 kg(35,273 lb) of mangoes and 60,000 kg(132,277 lb) of pineapples a year. Thetown slopes gently down towards theAtlantic from the Macizo de Tenomountains and possesses amicroclimate that its inhabitants sweargives its fruit a special flavor. Themean temperature around here is 20ºC(68ºF) all year round, which allows thefruit to ripen slowly, the rhythm set bythe beating of the waves whose foamdrifts up as far as the fabric of thegreenhouses. As he darts about theestate, Savasa’s technical expert, JuanCarlos Hernández, seems to embody



his latest inventions is a marvelousmatch of foie gras and griddledmango. The same thinking isdiscernible behind his mixed grill offruit and vegetables with scallops(mango goes as beautifully withseafood and fish as it does with meat,enhancing its flavor). One of his dishesfeatures mango as a sauce toaccompany Spain’s classic roastsucking pig; in another, it daringlyfulfils the fundamental role of the ricein a risotto. He remembers howsuccessful this latter dish was amonghis regular customers, and theirastonishment at the texture of mangocut a la brunoise to resemble rice.Certain dishes from Málaga’straditional repertoire lend themselvesparticularly readily to fusion withtropical flavor. Ajoblanco is oneexample. This cold soup, made withbread, crushed almonds, garlic, water,extra virgin olive oil, salt andsometimes vinegar, is usually servedwith grapes or little pieces of melon.At Dani García’s restaurant, Calima(Spain Gourmetour No. 70) in Málaga’stourist mecca of Marbella, thiscenturies-old recipe appears under theupdated guise of Ajoblanco de almendratierna con higos y toques de mango(Ajoblanco of young almonds with figsand touches of mango). Dani García isa chef for whom dishes are made up ofcountless details and nuances,sometimes barely perceptible, withwhich he cleverly achieves perfectharmony.Mango has also been used to greatsuccess in a version of Spain’s otherfamous cold soup, gazpacho(traditionally tomato-based), as createdby Basque chef José Rojano, at the LaTerraza restaurant in the Santa CatalinaHotel in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria. Hismango gazpacho manages to balancethe sweetness of mango with the acidiczing of apple, the saltiness of trout roe


MANGO AND PAPAYA

The papaya and the mango are usedas symbols for opposite, yetcomplementary, concepts: the mangorepresents masculinity in Asianculture, and the papaya femininity inAmerican lore (their shapes are usedon lavatory doors to indicate male andfemale). The very look of these fruits isvoluptuous, as so many writers andpainters have recorded. Paul Gauguinimmortalized mango fruit in hispainting “Vahine no te vi” (Woman witha Mango), painted in Tahiti in 1892.Mango trees, flowers and fruit appearin other paintings of his, such as “TwoTahitian women with mangoblossoms”. In his oeuvre as a whole,the mango becomes the forbiddenfruit in the Garden of Eden, a symbol

of sexual temptation andsensuality.Both fruits also appearfrequently in tales from the oraltradition and legends. In Chile’sElqui Valley, the legend stillpersists that the teardrop-shaped papaya sprang from theground upon which a womanhad wept at the loss of herlover. In India, the mango tree isvenerated as the tree beneathwhose shade Buddha preferredto meditate. The fact thatmango flowers are symbolic oflife and its fruit of fertilityexplains why they are such animportant feature at weddingceremonies.

S W E E T A N D S E X Y

CULINARYFARE

and the chill of red pepper ice cream.Rojano, who has lived in this CanaryIsland for the last 15 years, iscaptivated by the intensity of flavor ofCanary-grown mangoes, and this dishexhibits it well. During their season,which lasts from early summer to latefall in the islands, mangoes featureregularly in several dishes on hisrestaurant’s menu. One of his morehumorous creations is a dessert madeto look like egg and french fries, in

which yogurt ice cream provides theegg white, spherified mango the yolk,and freshly cut mango wedges thefries.Rojano finds the flavor of papaya morecomplex, but likes the way that itsenzyme content enables it to hold itsown alongside meat, and the fact that,while still green and underripe, it is avery versatile ingredient. His Pancetade cerdo negro canario a bajatemperatura con papaya a la plancha y



his latest inventions is a marvelousmatch of foie gras and griddledmango. The same thinking isdiscernible behind his mixed grill offruit and vegetables with scallops(mango goes as beautifully withseafood and fish as it does with meat,enhancing its flavor). One of his dishesfeatures mango as a sauce toaccompany Spain’s classic roastsucking pig; in another, it daringlyfulfils the fundamental role of the ricein a risotto. He remembers howsuccessful this latter dish was amonghis regular customers, and theirastonishment at the texture of mangocut a la brunoise to resemble rice.Certain dishes from Málaga’straditional repertoire lend themselvesparticularly readily to fusion withtropical flavor. Ajoblanco is oneexample. This cold soup, made withbread, crushed almonds, garlic, water,extra virgin olive oil, salt andsometimes vinegar, is usually servedwith grapes or little pieces of melon.At Dani García’s restaurant, Calima(Spain Gourmetour No. 70) in Málaga’stourist mecca of Marbella, thiscenturies-old recipe appears under theupdated guise of Ajoblanco de almendratierna con higos y toques de mango(Ajoblanco of young almonds with figsand touches of mango). Dani García isa chef for whom dishes are made up ofcountless details and nuances,sometimes barely perceptible, withwhich he cleverly achieves perfectharmony.Mango has also been used to greatsuccess in a version of Spain’s otherfamous cold soup, gazpacho(traditionally tomato-based), as createdby Basque chef José Rojano, at the LaTerraza restaurant in the Santa CatalinaHotel in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria. Hismango gazpacho manages to balancethe sweetness of mango with the acidiczing of apple, the saltiness of trout roe


MANGO AND PAPAYA

The papaya and the mango are usedas symbols for opposite, yetcomplementary, concepts: the mangorepresents masculinity in Asianculture, and the papaya femininity inAmerican lore (their shapes are usedon lavatory doors to indicate male andfemale). The very look of these fruits isvoluptuous, as so many writers andpainters have recorded. Paul Gauguinimmortalized mango fruit in hispainting “Vahine no te vi” (Woman witha Mango), painted in Tahiti in 1892.Mango trees, flowers and fruit appearin other paintings of his, such as “TwoTahitian women with mangoblossoms”. In his oeuvre as a whole,the mango becomes the forbiddenfruit in the Garden of Eden, a symbol

of sexual temptation andsensuality.Both fruits also appearfrequently in tales from the oraltradition and legends. In Chile’sElqui Valley, the legend stillpersists that the teardrop-shaped papaya sprang from theground upon which a womanhad wept at the loss of herlover. In India, the mango tree isvenerated as the tree beneathwhose shade Buddha preferredto meditate. The fact thatmango flowers are symbolic oflife and its fruit of fertilityexplains why they are such animportant feature at weddingceremonies.

S W E E T A N D S E X Y

CULINARYFARE

and the chill of red pepper ice cream.Rojano, who has lived in this CanaryIsland for the last 15 years, iscaptivated by the intensity of flavor ofCanary-grown mangoes, and this dishexhibits it well. During their season,which lasts from early summer to latefall in the islands, mangoes featureregularly in several dishes on hisrestaurant’s menu. One of his morehumorous creations is a dessert madeto look like egg and french fries, in

which yogurt ice cream provides theegg white, spherified mango the yolk,and freshly cut mango wedges thefries.Rojano finds the flavor of papaya morecomplex, but likes the way that itsenzyme content enables it to hold itsown alongside meat, and the fact that,while still green and underripe, it is avery versatile ingredient. His Pancetade cerdo negro canario a bajatemperatura con papaya a la plancha y



Portugal

Mediterranean Sea

AtlanticOcean

31 mi

Morocco

Strait of Gibraltar

62 mi

Málaga

Granada

La Palma

El Hierro

La Gomera Tenerife

GranCanaria

Fuerteventura

LanzaroteCanary Islands

Tejina(Guía de Isora)

Tejina(La Laguna)

Buenavista

Vélez-Málaga Motril

Almuñecar

Mango and papaya producing zone

been researching mango growing for12 years. At present, 40 varieties aregrown at La Mayora, all of which arebeing studied from the point of view oftheir adaptation to the Málaga climate,agronomic aspects and organolepticproperties. Varieties that stand outfrom the rest include Ataulfo, whichhas yellow skin and flavor-packedflesh, and Maya, a very sweet varietywith a flavor suggestive of mandarinorange.Emilio explains that all the varieties arefine-textured, with none of the fibersthat can be such a nuisance in thisfruit. In Spanish popular usage, themasculine term mangos is applied tothe more fibrous fruits and thefeminine version mangas to the fiber-free ones. Emilio makes it clear,however, that both terms refer to thesame fruit and that fiber is a factor ofvariety. Having to deal with fibers inthe mouth does get in the way of fullenjoyment of a mango; producers aretherefore opting for those varietieswith the smoothest, most homogenousflesh.Emilio has witnessed the developmentof mango production in the Axarquíaarea, where plantations now account


aire de naranja (Chilled Canary Islandblack pig pancetta with griddledpapaya and orange air) capitalizes onthese attributes, while channeling thelocal custom of combining papaya andorange in smoothies and salads.Armando Saldanha, proprietor of therestaurant Amaranto in El Sauzal(Tenerife) is originally from Mexico buthas now settled in the Canary Islands.He uses papaya and mango as adjunctsto both fish and meat, a role in whichboth perform well. One of his dishescombines slices of ripe mango (pickedfrom the tree in the restaurant’sgarden) with cherne (wreckfish, orstone bass), a locally caught, stronglyflavored, deep water fish.The potential of papaya and mango indesserts is virtually inexhaustible: theyare most commonly eaten in the formof fresh fruit, smoothies, preserves andnatural juices, which are readilyavailable all over the islands, even inthe beach bars.

Aphrodisiac powersThe properties of papayas andmangoes have been thoroughlyresearched all over the world. Mangoes

are rich in minerals and oligoelements:they contain potassium, calcium,magnesium, phosphorus, vitamins Cand E and a lot of carotene, which isgood for sight and skin. Papayas are apotent source of vitamin C; they arealso rich in vitamins B, B3 and calcium.They contain an enzyme known aspapain, which has anti-inflammatoryproperties and is, for that reason, oftenused in alternative medicine as atreatment for stomach trouble.In folk mythology, both mangoes andpapayas are considered naturalaphrodisiacs (indeed, their voluptuousshapes and flavors seem to suggest asmuch) and elixirs of youth, anattribution backed up by their provenantioxidant properties. Research intothis latter aspect has been ongoing forsome years at the Canary IslandsInstitute of Agrarian Research (ICIA).One project is aimed at obtainingextracts with high antioxidant andantimicrobial activity from banana andmango skins and seeds for possible useas additives or fortifying ingredients inthe agri-food industry.The ICIA, whose fructiculturaldepartment is located in the IsamarEstate in Valle de Guerra (in La

Laguna, a district in the northeast ofTenerife Island) is also trying out newvarieties of mango, papaya and othertropical fruits, and looking intofarming methods and treatments forsome of the diseases to which they aresusceptible.Tenerife-born researcher Víctor Galán,author of El cultivo del mango (MangoGrowing), acknowledges that bananasand tomatoes are the superstars ofCanary Island agriculture at themoment. However, he believes thatmangoes, and papayas in particular,represent new options which holdgreater appeal for the Spanish andinternational markets, not to mentionthe farmers themselves.Meanwhile, another research team,from the Spanish National ResearchCouncil (CSIC, an autonomous bodyof the Spanish Ministry of Science andInnovation), based in La MayoraExperimental Station in Málaga, isworking on improving mangoproduction and adapting other tropicalfruits.La Mayora estate is situated inAlgarrobo-Costa, 40 km (24.8 mi)from Málaga in the coastal part of theAxarquía district. Emilio Guirado has

W E B S I T E S

www.trops.esThe website of TROPS, theAgricultural Processing Companyin Vélez-Málaga, providescorporate information as well asnews and recipes relating tomangoes and their other products:avocadoes, cherimoyas, lychees,carambolas and kumquats.(English, French, German, Spanish)

www.aguadulce.com.esThe Aguadulce agriculturalprocessing company’s websiteincludes descriptions of the cropsgrown. (Spanish)

www.icia.esThis is the website of the CanaryIslands Institute of Agrarian Research(ICIA), under whose auspices severalresearch projects associated withgrowing tropical fruits in Spain arebeing conducted. (English, Spanish)

www.eelm.csic.esThis is the website of La MayoraExperimental Station, where researchis being carried out into the plantsand growing techniques used insoutheastern Spain for subtropicalfruit trees such as mango, lychee andcarambola. (English, Spanish)

for nearly 3,000 ha (7,413 acres)—95% of the total area given over to hiscrop in Spain as a whole, the rest beingin the Canary Islands (400 ha / 988acres) and Granada (200 ha / 494acres).In the bright midday sunshine,Guirado points out how rapidly othercrops, such as avocadoes andcherimoya, took off in Spain, andseems quite confident that an equallyrosy future lies ahead for mangoes.Indeed, production is expected todouble within four years in Málagaalone. Meanwhile, the Canaries seemto be leaning ever more heavilytowards papayas, plantations of whichalready total 250 ha (617 acres) andyield around 9,000 kg (19,841 lb).While these figures are by no means

exceptional in the context of thethousands of tons grown worldwide,the quality factor has won a strongmarket position for the Spanishproduct. Consequently, Spain’s papayaproduction continues to expand inresponse to a growing demand for fruitthat encapsulate sunny memories ofsouthern Spain and the exotic CanaryIslands in their Atlantic setting.

Yanet Acosta is a journalist whose workhas appeared in various Spanishnewspapers, including El Mundo andPúblico. She worked as an editor at theEFE news agency for nine years, and iscurrently coordinating the first edition of aspecialist food-writing course at Madrid’sComplutense University.



Portugal

Mediterranean Sea

AtlanticOcean

31 mi

Morocco

Strait of Gibraltar

62 mi

Málaga

Granada

La Palma

El Hierro

La Gomera Tenerife

GranCanaria

Fuerteventura

LanzaroteCanary Islands

Tejina(Guía de Isora)

Tejina(La Laguna)

Buenavista

Vélez-Málaga Motril

Almuñecar

Mango and papaya producing zone

been researching mango growing for12 years. At present, 40 varieties aregrown at La Mayora, all of which arebeing studied from the point of view oftheir adaptation to the Málaga climate,agronomic aspects and organolepticproperties. Varieties that stand outfrom the rest include Ataulfo, whichhas yellow skin and flavor-packedflesh, and Maya, a very sweet varietywith a flavor suggestive of mandarinorange.Emilio explains that all the varieties arefine-textured, with none of the fibersthat can be such a nuisance in thisfruit. In Spanish popular usage, themasculine term mangos is applied tothe more fibrous fruits and thefeminine version mangas to the fiber-free ones. Emilio makes it clear,however, that both terms refer to thesame fruit and that fiber is a factor ofvariety. Having to deal with fibers inthe mouth does get in the way of fullenjoyment of a mango; producers aretherefore opting for those varietieswith the smoothest, most homogenousflesh.Emilio has witnessed the developmentof mango production in the Axarquíaarea, where plantations now account


aire de naranja (Chilled Canary Islandblack pig pancetta with griddledpapaya and orange air) capitalizes onthese attributes, while channeling thelocal custom of combining papaya andorange in smoothies and salads.Armando Saldanha, proprietor of therestaurant Amaranto in El Sauzal(Tenerife) is originally from Mexico buthas now settled in the Canary Islands.He uses papaya and mango as adjunctsto both fish and meat, a role in whichboth perform well. One of his dishescombines slices of ripe mango (pickedfrom the tree in the restaurant’sgarden) with cherne (wreckfish, orstone bass), a locally caught, stronglyflavored, deep water fish.The potential of papaya and mango indesserts is virtually inexhaustible: theyare most commonly eaten in the formof fresh fruit, smoothies, preserves andnatural juices, which are readilyavailable all over the islands, even inthe beach bars.

Aphrodisiac powersThe properties of papayas andmangoes have been thoroughlyresearched all over the world. Mangoes

are rich in minerals and oligoelements:they contain potassium, calcium,magnesium, phosphorus, vitamins Cand E and a lot of carotene, which isgood for sight and skin. Papayas are apotent source of vitamin C; they arealso rich in vitamins B, B3 and calcium.They contain an enzyme known aspapain, which has anti-inflammatoryproperties and is, for that reason, oftenused in alternative medicine as atreatment for stomach trouble.In folk mythology, both mangoes andpapayas are considered naturalaphrodisiacs (indeed, their voluptuousshapes and flavors seem to suggest asmuch) and elixirs of youth, anattribution backed up by their provenantioxidant properties. Research intothis latter aspect has been ongoing forsome years at the Canary IslandsInstitute of Agrarian Research (ICIA).One project is aimed at obtainingextracts with high antioxidant andantimicrobial activity from banana andmango skins and seeds for possible useas additives or fortifying ingredients inthe agri-food industry.The ICIA, whose fructiculturaldepartment is located in the IsamarEstate in Valle de Guerra (in La

Laguna, a district in the northeast ofTenerife Island) is also trying out newvarieties of mango, papaya and othertropical fruits, and looking intofarming methods and treatments forsome of the diseases to which they aresusceptible.Tenerife-born researcher Víctor Galán,author of El cultivo del mango (MangoGrowing), acknowledges that bananasand tomatoes are the superstars ofCanary Island agriculture at themoment. However, he believes thatmangoes, and papayas in particular,represent new options which holdgreater appeal for the Spanish andinternational markets, not to mentionthe farmers themselves.Meanwhile, another research team,from the Spanish National ResearchCouncil (CSIC, an autonomous bodyof the Spanish Ministry of Science andInnovation), based in La MayoraExperimental Station in Málaga, isworking on improving mangoproduction and adapting other tropicalfruits.La Mayora estate is situated inAlgarrobo-Costa, 40 km (24.8 mi)from Málaga in the coastal part of theAxarquía district. Emilio Guirado has

W E B S I T E S

www.trops.esThe website of TROPS, theAgricultural Processing Companyin Vélez-Málaga, providescorporate information as well asnews and recipes relating tomangoes and their other products:avocadoes, cherimoyas, lychees,carambolas and kumquats.(English, French, German, Spanish)

www.aguadulce.com.esThe Aguadulce agriculturalprocessing company’s websiteincludes descriptions of the cropsgrown. (Spanish)

www.icia.esThis is the website of the CanaryIslands Institute of Agrarian Research(ICIA), under whose auspices severalresearch projects associated withgrowing tropical fruits in Spain arebeing conducted. (English, Spanish)

www.eelm.csic.esThis is the website of La MayoraExperimental Station, where researchis being carried out into the plantsand growing techniques used insoutheastern Spain for subtropicalfruit trees such as mango, lychee andcarambola. (English, Spanish)

for nearly 3,000 ha (7,413 acres)—95% of the total area given over to hiscrop in Spain as a whole, the rest beingin the Canary Islands (400 ha / 988acres) and Granada (200 ha / 494acres).In the bright midday sunshine,Guirado points out how rapidly othercrops, such as avocadoes andcherimoya, took off in Spain, andseems quite confident that an equallyrosy future lies ahead for mangoes.Indeed, production is expected todouble within four years in Málagaalone. Meanwhile, the Canaries seemto be leaning ever more heavilytowards papayas, plantations of whichalready total 250 ha (617 acres) andyield around 9,000 kg (19,841 lb).While these figures are by no means

exceptional in the context of thethousands of tons grown worldwide,the quality factor has won a strongmarket position for the Spanishproduct. Consequently, Spain’s papayaproduction continues to expand inresponse to a growing demand for fruitthat encapsulate sunny memories ofsouthern Spain and the exotic CanaryIslands in their Atlantic setting.

Yanet Acosta is a journalist whose workhas appeared in various Spanishnewspapers, including El Mundo andPúblico. She worked as an editor at theEFE news agency for nine years, and iscurrently coordinating the first edition of aspecialist food-writing course at Madrid’sComplutense University.


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HONEY

FOODBASICS


SEGURA/©ICEX












HONEY

FOODBASICSTEXT

SANTIAGO SÁNCHEZSEGURA/©ICEX












clue by which our honey could beidentified,” explains Alberto Sacristán,technical director of the regulatorycouncil. These days, despite the factthat beekeeping and honey productionare conducted on a predominantlyfamily-run, artisan scale, thanks totranshumance there can be severalharvests in the course of the year. Italso simplifies the production ofmonofloral (lavender and rosemary)varieties, as Gregorio Martínezexplains: “Within very short distanceswe can move our hives from the riverbanks where we install them in spring,when the rosemary is in bloom, tohigher, drier terrain where we harvestlavender honey come summer.”

Evocative landscapeThe extraordinarily varied landscapeand vegetation of its area of provenanceendow Spain’s other PDO honey, Mielde Granada, with special qualities.“What gives our honey its considerableappeal is the abundance and diversityof the pollen available to the bees in the

that makes your head spin when youbreathe in its scent.”As Cela’s protagonist explains, theabundance of plants of the labiatae(Lamiaceae) family makes the localhoney highly aromatic, thecharacteristic for which PDO Miel dela Alcarria is renowned. GregorioMartínez, who markets his Guadalhorhoney under the PDO label, can quotephysicochemical data to prove thepoint: “Our honey, particularly thelavender variety, has a uniqueaftertaste, primarily nasal, that resultsdirectly from the conditions in thisarea: moisture levels are very low andthe concentration of pollen high, andthis produces honey that is very pureand intensely aromatic.” Historically,the hint of lavender was an identifyingcharacteristic of La Alcarria’smultifloral honey. “In days gone by,when honey was produced in smallerquantity, it all used to be collectedtogether in one harvest in September,which is when lavender is in bloom. Itwould therefore have been detectablein the honey and provided a telltale

break out of the vicious circle, but thefact that production is both limitedand fragmented makes it impossiblydifficult.La Alcarria and its honey are delimitedby three natural barriers: the Henaresand Tagus rivers to north and south,and the mountains of the IberianSystem to the east. The area withinthese boundaries, just over 4,000 sqkm (1,544 sq mi), has no woodlandsor significant mountains, but iscrisscrossed by many streams andrivers which rill between its low hillsand bluffs in springtime. Inconjunction with a dry climate and analtitude of over 700 m (2,296 mi),these create an environment in which awealth of wild flora thrives. “There aremore than 700 different aromaticspecies hereabouts; that may be whythe honey is so good,” a countrydoctor observes to Camilo (who hasalready commented on the hawthorn,thyme, furze, cistus, rosemary andlavender flowers encountered on hisroute, constituting “...the sort ofvegetation you hardly ever see, but




clue by which our honey could beidentified,” explains Alberto Sacristán,technical director of the regulatorycouncil. These days, despite the factthat beekeeping and honey productionare conducted on a predominantlyfamily-run, artisan scale, thanks totranshumance there can be severalharvests in the course of the year. Italso simplifies the production ofmonofloral (lavender and rosemary)varieties, as Gregorio Martínezexplains: “Within very short distanceswe can move our hives from the riverbanks where we install them in spring,when the rosemary is in bloom, tohigher, drier terrain where we harvestlavender honey come summer.”

Evocative landscapeThe extraordinarily varied landscapeand vegetation of its area of provenanceendow Spain’s other PDO honey, Mielde Granada, with special qualities.“What gives our honey its considerableappeal is the abundance and diversityof the pollen available to the bees in the

that makes your head spin when youbreathe in its scent.”As Cela’s protagonist explains, theabundance of plants of the labiatae(Lamiaceae) family makes the localhoney highly aromatic, thecharacteristic for which PDO Miel dela Alcarria is renowned. GregorioMartínez, who markets his Guadalhorhoney under the PDO label, can quotephysicochemical data to prove thepoint: “Our honey, particularly thelavender variety, has a uniqueaftertaste, primarily nasal, that resultsdirectly from the conditions in thisarea: moisture levels are very low andthe concentration of pollen high, andthis produces honey that is very pureand intensely aromatic.” Historically,the hint of lavender was an identifyingcharacteristic of La Alcarria’smultifloral honey. “In days gone by,when honey was produced in smallerquantity, it all used to be collectedtogether in one harvest in September,which is when lavender is in bloom. Itwould therefore have been detectablein the honey and provided a telltale

break out of the vicious circle, but thefact that production is both limitedand fragmented makes it impossiblydifficult.La Alcarria and its honey are delimitedby three natural barriers: the Henaresand Tagus rivers to north and south,and the mountains of the IberianSystem to the east. The area withinthese boundaries, just over 4,000 sqkm (1,544 sq mi), has no woodlandsor significant mountains, but iscrisscrossed by many streams andrivers which rill between its low hillsand bluffs in springtime. Inconjunction with a dry climate and analtitude of over 700 m (2,296 mi),these create an environment in which awealth of wild flora thrives. “There aremore than 700 different aromaticspecies hereabouts; that may be whythe honey is so good,” a countrydoctor observes to Camilo (who hasalready commented on the hawthorn,thyme, furze, cistus, rosemary andlavender flowers encountered on hisroute, constituting “...the sort ofvegetation you hardly ever see, but



Basada aparentemente en la simpleza de sabores y en una sofisticación sutil, Pedro RodríguezDios practica una cocina moderna, evolucionada, de gran dificultad, que surge a partir de lasraíces tradicionales y se levanta sobre el pilar inamovible de los productos canarios. Consideradocomo uno de los cocineros más destacados de las Islas Canarias, por su dominio de la técnicay su versatilidad, se ha hecho merecedor del premio al mejor jefe de cocina de Canarias en 2007.Todo su saber hacer no solo lo despliega en el restaurante La Gañanía, sino que también loplasma en su labor literaria: como coautor del libro Cocina de Canarias. La evolución, donde serefleja su pasión por la modernidad y el perfeccionamiento en la repostería canaria; en Maridajescanarios. Armonía entre platos y vinos, obra para la que crea originales y sugerentes propuestaspara armonizar con los grandes vinos canarios; y en Cocina de Canarias. La tradición, donde nosmanifiesta sus raíces, como dice el autor, “nuestra cocina canaria de siempre, tratada con elrespeto que nuestra cultura culinaria se merece”. Pedro dirige un equipo joven, donde la técnicaes una herramienta básica. Cuenta en su restaurante con Yurima Torres Martín, su sumiller, quees la responsable de la armonización de los platos que nos propone.

Restaurante La GañaníaCamino del Durazno, 71Puerto de la Cruz, 38400(Tenerife)Tel.: (+34) 922 371 000www.laganania.com

Almudena Muyo/©ICEX

Fotos introducciónTomás Zarza/©ICEX

Fotos recetasToya Legido/©ICEX

RestauranteLa Gañanía

Proyecto2_Maquetación 1 01/12/09 17:55 Página 2

· Avocado (Persea spp)

Minimum pollen %: Persea spp >25%

Characteristics: Very dark, almost black,amber color; floral aroma with clear fruitynotes and no malty ones; sweet taste witha hint of salt.

Try this: Oven-baked loin cuts of sturgeonwith caramelized onion jam and a dash ofavocado honey.

· Orange blossom (Citrus spp)

Minimum pollen %: Citrus Aurantius >20%,Citrus Aurantius >5% if methyl anthranilatecontent is over 1.5 ppm

Characteristics: Pale color, floral aromawith a pronounced, persistent orangeblossom component; sweet taste withnoticeable acidic zing and increased retro-nasal olfactory sensations.

Try this: Toasted bread with olive oil, hamand orange blossom honey.

· French lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

Minimum pollen %: Lavandula stoechas>12%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging fromwhite to very pale amber; faint and rathershort-lived floral aroma, sometimes with theslightest hint of camphor, increasing retro-nasally. Sweet taste with slight acidic notes.

Try this: Macedoine of fresh fruit withFrench lavender honey.

· Chestnut (Castanea sativa)

Minimum pollen %: Castanea sativa >75%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging fromamber to deep amber, with brownish-greentones in the area where the honey makescontact with the glass of the jar; floralaroma with an obvious woody component;sweet taste with salty notes, plus faintacidic tang if bramble is involved.

Try this: Braised pork spare ribs servedwith chestnut honey and white wine sauce.

· Miel de la Sierra (multifloral demontaña con castaño)


Characteristics: Color varies, ranging fromamber to deep amber, with brownish-greentones in the area where the honey makescontact with the glass of the jar; floralaroma with an obvious woody component;sweet taste with salty notes, plus other,bitter notes if it contains heather, or acidicnotes if it contains bramble.

Try this: Fried eggplant with sierra honey.

· Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Minimum pollen %: Rosmarinus officinalis>12%

Characteristics: Very pale color; mild floralaroma with hints of camphor; sweet tastewith acidic edge and nasal aromas withfruity notes if it contains almond andstarchy ones if legumes.

Try this: Roast lamb with rosemary honey.

· Thyme (Thymus spp)

Minimum pollen %: Thymus spp >12%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging frompale amber to amber, generally with aslightly reddish tone; floral aroma with avery strong, persistent phenoliccomponent; sweet taste with a hint ofacidity which can have malty, salty,aromatic retro-nasal notes if it containshoneydew.

Try this: Baby goat roasted with honey.

Each regulatory council has its own certified multifloral honey as well as the variousmonofloral varieties listed below:

E S S E N C E O F P L A C E


· Lavender (Lavandula spp)

Minimum pollen %: Lavandula vera, L.latifolia, hybrids thereof >12%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging fromwhite to amber, sometimes rather dark if itcontains honeydew (also known as foresthoney, i.e. the honey obtained fromsecretions from the living parts of plants oraphids, woodlice and other sap-suckinginsects); floral aroma with a verypronounced and persistent lavendercomponent and phenolic notes; persistentsweet taste with a hint of acidity andaromas that are accentuated retro-nasallywith a highly-characteristic fruity intensity; ifthe honey contains honeydew, slight hintsof salt will be discernible.

Try this: Lavender honey sorbet.



Characteristics: Color can vary from faintstraw to pale creamy lemon yellow;relatively mild aroma, primarily floral withhints of aniseed, resin and suggestions ofnewly-cut grass, mushroom and butter.Sweet flavored with a short-lived zing ofacidity.

Try this: Torrijas (festive Spanish version ofFrench toast) bathed in a rosemary honeysauce.

· Heather (Erica spp)

Minimum pollen %: Erica spp >45%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging frompale to amber, generally with reddish tones;strong and very persistent aroma of fallenautumn leaves, humus, mushrooms; sweettaste with a distinct touch of bitterness andsalty notes, bigger and maltier retro-nasallyif it contains honeydew.

Try this: PGI Ternera de Galicia tenderloinsteak cooked with honey and wildmushrooms.


Minimum pollen %: Castanea sativa>75%

Characteristics: Dark, sometimes reddish,amber color; floral aroma with an obviouswoody element; sweet taste, sometimesslightly piquant, with salty notes plusadditional bitter ones if it contains heather,or acidic ones if it contains bramble.

Try this: PDO Cebreiro fresh cheese withwalnuts and chestnut honey.

· Eucalyptus (Eucaliptus spp)

Minimum pollen %:Eucaliptus spp >70%

Characteristics: Pale amber color, a littledarker when it contains broom or heather;strong and extremely persistent aroma ofwet wood; sweet taste with slightly acidicnotes, and if it contains broom or heather,salty, with the olfactory sensationincreasing retro-nasally.

Try this: Salad composed of lettuce,cheese, walnuts and pine nuts dressedwith balsamic vinegar and eucalyptushoney.

· Bramble (Rubus spp)

Minimum pollen %: Rubus spp >45%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging frompale amber to amber, darker when itcontains honeydew; floral aroma, with astrong fruity component of mediumduration, plus notes of humus if it containsheather, and malt if it contains honeydew;sweet taste with a distinct acidic edge andan increase in the fruity component at theretro-nasal stage, plus salty notes if itcontains heather or honeydew.

Try this: Seasonal fruit cocktail.

PDO MIEL DE LA ALCARRIAPDO MIEL DE GRANADA PGI MIEL DE GALICIA

*Minimum pollen % and sensory characteristics taken from Fichas técnicas de las Mieles monoflorales de laPenínsula Ibérica (Technical Characteristics of Monofloral Honeys from the Iberian Peninsula) by FranciscoJosé Orantes Bermejo and Antonio Gómez Pajuelo, and Spain Gourmetour


The cuisine offered by Pedro Rodríguez Dios is one of simple flavors and subtlesophistication, based on the sound foundations of tradition and Canary Island produce.Named best chef de cuisine in the Canary Islands in 2007, Rodríguez Dios is known forhis mastery of culinary techniques and his versatility, displayed not only at his restaurantLa Gañanía, but also in his writing. He is co-author of Cocina de Canarias. La evolución(Canary Island Cuisine. Evolution), in which he shares his passion for updating patisseriein the Canaries. In Maridajes Canarios, armonía entre platos y vinos (Canary Island Matching,Harmony Between Food and Wine) he makes original suggestions for marrying foodswith some of the great Canary wines, and in Cocina de Canarias. La tradición (CanaryIsland Cuisine. Tradition), he focuses on traditional Canary cuisine, “treating it with therespect it deserves”. Pedro works in his restaurant with a young team, all skilled in theessential techniques. Here, the restaurant’s sommelier, Yurima Torres Martín, recommendswines to partner our selection of recipes.

Restaurante La GañaníaCamino del Durazno, 7138400 Puerto de la Cruz(Tenerife)Tel.: (+34) 922 371 000www.laganania.com

IntroductionAlmudena Muyo/©ICEX

TranslationJenny McDonald/©ICEX

Photos, introductionTomás Zarza/©ICEX

Photos, recipesToya Legido/©ICEX


RECIPES

10 RECETAS IN_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/11/09 11:12 Página 94 (INGLES plancha)


· Avocado (Persea spp)

Minimum pollen %: Persea spp >25%

Characteristics: Very dark, almost black,amber color; floral aroma with clear fruitynotes and no malty ones; sweet taste witha hint of salt.

Try this: Oven-baked loin cuts of sturgeonwith caramelized onion jam and a dash ofavocado honey.

· Orange blossom (Citrus spp)

Minimum pollen %: Citrus Aurantius >20%,Citrus Aurantius >5% if methyl anthranilatecontent is over 1.5 ppm

Characteristics: Pale color, floral aromawith a pronounced, persistent orangeblossom component; sweet taste withnoticeable acidic zing and increased retro-nasal olfactory sensations.

Try this: Toasted bread with olive oil, hamand orange blossom honey.

· French lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

Minimum pollen %: Lavandula stoechas>12%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging fromwhite to very pale amber; faint and rathershort-lived floral aroma, sometimes with theslightest hint of camphor, increasing retro-nasally. Sweet taste with slight acidic notes.

Try this: Macedoine of fresh fruit withFrench lavender honey.



Characteristics: Color varies, ranging fromamber to deep amber, with brownish-greentones in the area where the honey makescontact with the glass of the jar; floralaroma with an obvious woody component;sweet taste with salty notes, plus faintacidic tang if bramble is involved.

Try this: Braised pork spare ribs servedwith chestnut honey and white wine sauce.

· Miel de la Sierra (multifloral demontaña con castaño)


Characteristics: Color varies, ranging fromamber to deep amber, with brownish-greentones in the area where the honey makescontact with the glass of the jar; floralaroma with an obvious woody component;sweet taste with salty notes, plus other,bitter notes if it contains heather, or acidicnotes if it contains bramble.

Try this: Fried eggplant with sierra honey.



Characteristics: Very pale color; mild floralaroma with hints of camphor; sweet tastewith acidic edge and nasal aromas withfruity notes if it contains almond andstarchy ones if legumes.

Try this: Roast lamb with rosemary honey.

· Thyme (Thymus spp)

Minimum pollen %: Thymus spp >12%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging frompale amber to amber, generally with aslightly reddish tone; floral aroma with avery strong, persistent phenoliccomponent; sweet taste with a hint ofacidity which can have malty, salty,aromatic retro-nasal notes if it containshoneydew.

Try this: Baby goat roasted with honey.

Each regulatory council has its own certified multifloral honey as well as the variousmonofloral varieties listed below:

E S S E N C E O F P L A C E


· Lavender (Lavandula spp)

Minimum pollen %: Lavandula vera, L.latifolia, hybrids thereof >12%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging fromwhite to amber, sometimes rather dark if itcontains honeydew (also known as foresthoney, i.e. the honey obtained fromsecretions from the living parts of plants oraphids, woodlice and other sap-suckinginsects); floral aroma with a verypronounced and persistent lavendercomponent and phenolic notes; persistentsweet taste with a hint of acidity andaromas that are accentuated retro-nasallywith a highly-characteristic fruity intensity; ifthe honey contains honeydew, slight hintsof salt will be discernible.

Try this: Lavender honey sorbet.



Characteristics: Color can vary from faintstraw to pale creamy lemon yellow;relatively mild aroma, primarily floral withhints of aniseed, resin and suggestions ofnewly-cut grass, mushroom and butter.Sweet flavored with a short-lived zing ofacidity.

Try this: Torrijas (festive Spanish version ofFrench toast) bathed in a rosemary honeysauce.

· Heather (Erica spp)

Minimum pollen %: Erica spp >45%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging frompale to amber, generally with reddish tones;strong and very persistent aroma of fallenautumn leaves, humus, mushrooms; sweettaste with a distinct touch of bitterness andsalty notes, bigger and maltier retro-nasallyif it contains honeydew.

Try this: PGI Ternera de Galicia tenderloinsteak cooked with honey and wildmushrooms.


Minimum pollen %: Castanea sativa>75%

Characteristics: Dark, sometimes reddish,amber color; floral aroma with an obviouswoody element; sweet taste, sometimesslightly piquant, with salty notes plusadditional bitter ones if it contains heather,or acidic ones if it contains bramble.

Try this: PDO Cebreiro fresh cheese withwalnuts and chestnut honey.

· Eucalyptus (Eucaliptus spp)

Minimum pollen %:Eucaliptus spp >70%

Characteristics: Pale amber color, a littledarker when it contains broom or heather;strong and extremely persistent aroma ofwet wood; sweet taste with slightly acidicnotes, and if it contains broom or heather,salty, with the olfactory sensationincreasing retro-nasally.

Try this: Salad composed of lettuce,cheese, walnuts and pine nuts dressedwith balsamic vinegar and eucalyptushoney.

· Bramble (Rubus spp)

Minimum pollen %: Rubus spp >45%

Characteristics: Color varies, ranging frompale amber to amber, darker when itcontains honeydew; floral aroma, with astrong fruity component of mediumduration, plus notes of humus if it containsheather, and malt if it contains honeydew;sweet taste with a distinct acidic edge andan increase in the fruity component at theretro-nasal stage, plus salty notes if itcontains heather or honeydew.

Try this: Seasonal fruit cocktail.

PDO MIEL DE LA ALCARRIAPDO MIEL DE GRANADA PGI MIEL DE GALICIA

*Minimum pollen % and sensory characteristics taken from Fichas técnicas de las Mieles monoflorales de laPenínsula Ibérica (Technical Characteristics of Monofloral Honeys from the Iberian Peninsula) by FranciscoJosé Orantes Bermejo and Antonio Gómez Pajuelo, and Spain Gourmetour


09 PREMIO AF.qxd 24/11/09 19:49 Página 9208 MIEL AF.qxd 24/11/09 20:01 Página 84

be taking our place the following year.”The downside, however, was that:“...our amazing experience in Spainwas nearly over; it was the end of animportant phase in our lives.” As forthe competition itself, Lars declares:“We all enjoyed vying with each otherand I think it was a really good way ofrounding off a year that none of us willever forget.”The inevitable uncertainty in the wakeof the competition—What next?Where do we all go from here?—didnot last long in Lars’s case: “I took amonth off and traveled all overnorthern Spain with a group offriends, from Catalonia to Asturiasthrough Aragón, Navarre, the BasqueCountry and Cantabria.” New workopportunities were about to presentthemselves: “After that trip, I went tothe United States to work with chefDaniel Patterson in San Francisco. I’dmet him some months earlier at theMadrid Fusión food conference, whichICEX had arranged for us to attend.”Next stop was his native Denmark,where he has been working ever since


as sous chef at Copenhagen’sprestigious Geranium restaurant. Larsreveals that “ever since discovering theexcellence of Spanish products such asextra virgin olive oils, vinegars,anchovies, cheese, fruit and veg(especially oranges and tomatoes).I have continued using them in mycooking.” A year after leaving thecountry he is still in close contact withSpain. “I keep in touch with the Rocabrothers; in fact I had the pleasure ofseeing them again in September whenthey came to Copenhagen forGastronomy Week.” Lars also workswith the Spanish Economic andCommercial Office in Copenhagen onpromotional events for Spanish foodproducts. All in all, he could justifiablydescribe himself as ambassador forSpanish gastronomy to Denmark.

Rodrigo García Fernández is ajournalist and a member of the editorialteam of www.spaingourmetour.com.

nervous tension by having to workagainst the clock, the big momentarrives: the jury announce theirverdict. The winner is Simon Moser, ayoung Swiss chef with firsthandexperience in the kitchens ofRestaurante Labur (in Oviedo,Asturias) and Mugaritz (near SanSebastian, in the Basque Country)under his belt. “I was confident thatthe judges would like my dish, but Ididn’t think for a moment that I mightwin,” the young chef declares. Thesecret of his success is revealed to havebeen his Mozarella de Idiazábal curadasobre caldo de jamón ibérico y majado dealcachofas, con ensalada (CuredIdiazabal mozzarella over Ibérico hambroth and artichoke mash, served withsalad). Jury member Lourdes Plana(director of the Madrid Fusión foodconference) explains one of the keyelements taken into consideration bythe judges in reaching their verdict:“All those taking part have shownenthusiasm and have cooked to a veryhigh standard, but some have cleverlyselected and combined ingredients

from the cuisines of northern, centraland southern Spain, therebydemonstrating that they haveassimilated the different regionalcuisines that are encapsulated withinSpanish gastronomy as a whole, andrecognizing what an attribute theyare.”Simon Moser heads for home with awealth of memories of his time spentin Spain. “Having completed thistraining program, I can saycategorically that working at Mugaritzwith Andoni Luis Aduriz has been mybest professional experience so far.”Mugaritz occupies a hilltop locationnot far from Errentería (10 km / 6 mifrom San Sebastian), and Simon wasvery taken by the “natural” cuisine andits connection with the local landscapeand environment that Aduriz and histeam practice there.

And now...As it happens, Simon Moser may wellbe returning early in 2010 to the partof the Basque Country that was so

influential during his period oftraining in Spain. The prize for theinternship program’s final competitionis a gastronomic weekend in theBasque Country, one of the hubs ofavant-garde Spanish cuisine and aregion with one of the oldest andrichest repertoires of traditional dishesin Spain.The best person to advise him onmaking the most of his prize might beLars Lundo, the Danish chef fromamong the 2007-2008 intake thatlaunched the training program andwho won the first edition’s finalcompetition with his Rodaballo conajoblanco caliente (Turbot with hotalmond and garlic sauce). Lars, whospent a year working with the Rocabrothers (Joan, Josep and Jordi) at thetwo-Michelin-star El Celler de CanRoca in Catalonia, remembers the daysleading up to the competition as “atime of very mixed feelings. I waslonging to get back and see the othersand compare notes on the months thatwe’d all spent in different restaurants,not to mention meet the people who’d

www.icex.tvICEX’s television websitefeatures a report on itsgastronomy internshipsentitled Becas de Gastronomía2009: con sabor a creatividad.To view the video, click firston ICEX OFRECE and thenBecas (Spanish).

I N P I C T U R E S

09 PREMIO IN_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/11/09 10:59 Página 92 (INGLES plancha)

Granada province such as Guadixstood in for the one-horse towns alongthe Rio Bravo that were the backdropto crucial scenes in such classicwesterns as “The Good, the Bad andthe Ugly” and “For a Few DollarsMore”). That area is where most of theprovince’s registered 296,000 ha(731,431 acres) of scrubland areconcentrated. It is perfect territory forproducing highly-concentrated honeycontaining very little moisture, derivedfrom aromatic plants such as thyme,

French lavender and rosemary. Slightlylower down is the Lecrín Valley, hometo the orange trees whose flowersprovide the essence from which nativeorange blossom honey is made. It wasup on higher ground, closer to thepeaks of the Sierra Nevada, that Britishfilm director David Lean used theUrals in an early scene (the one whenlittle Yuri attends his mother’s funeral)in “Doctor Zhivago”, plantations ofchestnut providing the makings of amiel de sierra (mountain honey). The


exceptional geographical andclimatological conditions in thisprovince: in just over 50 km (31 mi),one can go from the only subtropicalarea in Europe, along the coast betweenGranada and Málaga (southern Spain),to the highest peak on the IberianPeninsula—Mulhacén, in the SierraNevada mountain range,” boasts FidelBermúdez, managing director of Al-Andalus Delicatessen, on my arrival inLanjarón, a town located halfwaybetween these two phenomena. Knownas “the west gate to the Alpujarra”,Lanjarón leads into the comarca on thesouthern face of the Sierra Nevadawhere British writer Gerald Brenanlived and worked for many years.In South from Granada, Brenandescribes Lanjarón as “a big,whitewashed municipality, almost atown, stretched out like a balustradealong a steep hillside.” The simile stillholds today, as I discovered on myarrival: I was reminded of the hillvillages of northern Morocco—evidence of the enduring influence ofArab culture on Andalusia and,indeed, of the fact that North Africa isnot far a way. The latter part of myjourney from Madrid had brought methrough scenery reminiscent of verydifferent (this time filmic) culturalconnections: whereas in the 1960s and1970s, the desert landscape of Almeria(the area of southeastern Spain thatlies to the other side of the Sierra)provided the suitably arid setting formany a spaghetti western, the foothillsof the Sierra Nevada, with their ochresoil and undulating terrain clad inplausible vegetation, stood in for theMexican border territories wheregunfights between goodies andbaddies were often staged. (Back inMadrid, I was able to confirm that,with judicious cutting, parts of

HONEY

FOODBASICS


In his dual role as nutritionalexpert and director of La Casa dela Miel, the center for apiculturalpromotion and information onTenerife (one of the CanaryIslands, situated in the Atlantic),Antonio Bentabol is always beingasked why honey is considered ahealth food. He has his answerready: “It provides us withpolyphenols, which function asantioxidants; water; proteins,which are present in the pollen;and even small amounts ofvitamins B and C, unlike cane andbeet sugar, which have no vitamincontent; it is also a source of

energy-giving, high-quality carbohydrates,which have been pre-digested by the beesinto simple sugars which our bodies canaccess immediately. All these attributesmake it healthier than conventional sugar;comparatively, it has 25% fewer caloriesand more sweetness per unit of weight.” Ina market that increasingly attachesimportance to the functional aspects offoods, which are often enhanced byadditives, honey’s natural attributes are allplus points: it is a source of energy andantioxidants and is also soothing andantiseptic (it has been used as a naturalremedy for aches, pains and specificillnesses throughout its history).

W H Y I S H O N E Y G O O D F O R U S ?



Granada province such as Guadixstood in for the one-horse towns alongthe Rio Bravo that were the backdropto crucial scenes in such classicwesterns as “The Good, the Bad andthe Ugly” and “For a Few DollarsMore”). That area is where most of theprovince’s registered 296,000 ha(731,431 acres) of scrubland areconcentrated. It is perfect territory forproducing highly-concentrated honeycontaining very little moisture, derivedfrom aromatic plants such as thyme,

French lavender and rosemary. Slightlylower down is the Lecrín Valley, hometo the orange trees whose flowersprovide the essence from which nativeorange blossom honey is made. It wasup on higher ground, closer to thepeaks of the Sierra Nevada, that Britishfilm director David Lean used theUrals in an early scene (the one whenlittle Yuri attends his mother’s funeral)in “Doctor Zhivago”, plantations ofchestnut providing the makings of amiel de sierra (mountain honey). The


exceptional geographical andclimatological conditions in thisprovince: in just over 50 km (31 mi),one can go from the only subtropicalarea in Europe, along the coast betweenGranada and Málaga (southern Spain),to the highest peak on the IberianPeninsula—Mulhacén, in the SierraNevada mountain range,” boasts FidelBermúdez, managing director of Al-Andalus Delicatessen, on my arrival inLanjarón, a town located halfwaybetween these two phenomena. Knownas “the west gate to the Alpujarra”,Lanjarón leads into the comarca on thesouthern face of the Sierra Nevadawhere British writer Gerald Brenanlived and worked for many years.In South from Granada, Brenandescribes Lanjarón as “a big,whitewashed municipality, almost atown, stretched out like a balustradealong a steep hillside.” The simile stillholds today, as I discovered on myarrival: I was reminded of the hillvillages of northern Morocco—evidence of the enduring influence ofArab culture on Andalusia and,indeed, of the fact that North Africa isnot far a way. The latter part of myjourney from Madrid had brought methrough scenery reminiscent of verydifferent (this time filmic) culturalconnections: whereas in the 1960s and1970s, the desert landscape of Almeria(the area of southeastern Spain thatlies to the other side of the Sierra)provided the suitably arid setting formany a spaghetti western, the foothillsof the Sierra Nevada, with their ochresoil and undulating terrain clad inplausible vegetation, stood in for theMexican border territories wheregunfights between goodies andbaddies were often staged. (Back inMadrid, I was able to confirm that,with judicious cutting, parts of

HONEY

FOODBASICS


In his dual role as nutritionalexpert and director of La Casa dela Miel, the center for apiculturalpromotion and information onTenerife (one of the CanaryIslands, situated in the Atlantic),Antonio Bentabol is always beingasked why honey is considered ahealth food. He has his answerready: “It provides us withpolyphenols, which function asantioxidants; water; proteins,which are present in the pollen;and even small amounts ofvitamins B and C, unlike cane andbeet sugar, which have no vitamincontent; it is also a source of

energy-giving, high-quality carbohydrates,which have been pre-digested by the beesinto simple sugars which our bodies canaccess immediately. All these attributesmake it healthier than conventional sugar;comparatively, it has 25% fewer caloriesand more sweetness per unit of weight.” Ina market that increasingly attachesimportance to the functional aspects offoods, which are often enhanced byadditives, honey’s natural attributes are allplus points: it is a source of energy andantioxidants and is also soothing andantiseptic (it has been used as a naturalremedy for aches, pains and specificillnesses throughout its history).

W H Y I S H O N E Y G O O D F O R U S ?




HONEY

FOODBASICS


HONEY

FOODBASICS

Apiculture is considered “organic”when apiaries are located in areas ofwild vegetation or amid organically-grown crops. Generous exclusionzones are established to ensure thatbees gather nectar from the desiredflora. The fact of being organic doesnot have significant implications forthe end product, but it does offer aguarantee that it complies withstandards that many countries nowinsist upon. “Why do I makeecological honey? Because that’swhat my customers want!” laughsbeekeeper Christoph Saupp,originally from Austria and nowsettled in Spain. He exports his Mielde Torronteras, labeled with theorganic stamp issued by Spanishcertification agency Sohiscert, toSwitzerland, Germany, Austria andJapan.

Enrique Fernández, whose entireproduction of honey is covered byPDO Miel de Granada, some of it inthe organic category, confirms thatthe two qualifications overlap to alarge degree: “An organic honey and

a honey bearing an EU quality stamp arevirtually indistinguishable: both have beensubjected to very rigorous monitoring. Thereis an enormous difference in organolepticterms, however, between both thesecategories of honey and the industrially-produced ones sold in supermarkets.” Hemarkets his honey under the Biolanjar brand,backed by the Andalusian EcologicalFarming Committee, having startedproducing organic honey “…because wehardly needed to make any changes to whatwe were producing already”. David Corralhad much the same experience: aftermaking and marketing Mieles Anta for over25 years, he needed to make only minorchanges to qualify for certification by theRegulatory Council of Galician EcologicalAgriculture. Interestingly, his reason for doingso was that a French customer had enquiredabout his organic credentials.

Both men are representative of an apiculturalapproach based on a profound respect forthe environment which is, after all, the milieuin which their bees do their work (beesaccount for 70-90% of the pollination carriedout by insects). Whether organic honeyproducers or not, nearly everyone

interviewed for this report had some sort ofemotional (often family) link with theapicultural world. Beekeeping seems to bemore than just a commercial activity: someapiarists combine it with other jobs in quitevaried walks of life—working in a museum, inthe field of law, music-making (PepeLoeches, beekeeper and producer of CruzReal honey, has won four Latin GrammyAwards, interspersing periods spent in theAlcarria countryside with others in recordingstudios in Mexico and Miami)—and they lovedoing it. This attitude to the business has aknock-on effect on the quality of their honey,according to Gregorio Martinez. As wevisited his hives in La Alcarria, he declared:“Apiculture takes an enormous amount oftime and effort, and I do it because I believein beekeeping and I love it. That’s why, whenI’m choosing a base location for my bees,the first thing I look for is a place that I likemyself; I know that they’ll be happiest in anidyllic natural setting like this one, with thismarvelous landscape and vegetation, andI’m quite convinced that it shows in thehoney—there’s something special about it.”

O R G A N I C A P I C U L T U R E A N D T H E R O M A N C E O F B E E K E E P I N G

fact that the woody flavor of this localspecialty lacks the usual hint ofbitterness is explained by the fact thatthere is no heather in these mountains.Granada’s beekeepers typicallypractice vertical transhumance. Welearn from Gerald Brenan that, backin the 1920s, the beekeeper in Yegen,the Granada village where he lived,had to “…convey his hives on theback of a mule, up and down themountain.” Nowadays, the hives aretaken to areas nearer the sea:Granada’s tropical coast provides theideal habitat for growing tropicalspecies, and is the fount of the onlyavocado honey with an EU-backedagri-food guarantee: PDO Miel deGranada. This exotic honey has aslightly salty, nutty tang, and is one ofthe most intriguing examples of thebiodiversity contained within thisprovince. Ninety-two different kindsof pollen have been identified withinits 12,000 sq km (4,633 sq mi) area.

A taste of the northThe corner of the Iberian Peninsuladiagonally opposite Granada isoccupied by the autonomous region ofGalicia, production zone of honeyscovered by PGI Miel de Galicia. Thereis a long history of beekeeping in thesenorthwestern mountains, evidence ofwhich survives in the form of remainsof circular stone structures known asalbarizas, or cortines, which forcenturies protected the hives placedinside them from such hazards asbears, thieves, wind and fire. Theystand as monuments to the historicalimportance of honey in the local diet,both for its nutritional value and as anatural sweetening agent. It was notsupplanted until beet sugar went intogeneral production, cane sugar havingremained beyond the reach of theserural communities.Now, as then, most of Galicia’sregistered hives are concentrated in

this mountainous area. The honeymade here is different from the typesconsidered so far: “Miel de Galiciahoney is distinctive because of thelocal climate, which is rainier than inother parts of Spain and subject to theeffects of winds off the Atlantic. Inconsequence, the granitic soil is moreacidic and humus-rich, and a differentkind of vegetation grows in it,”explains Ester Ordoñez, president ofthe PGI’s Regulatory Council. There isno trace of plants of the Mediterraneantype in these woodlands, but, rather,an abundance of honey-producingflora in the form of oak and chestnuttrees, bramble and heather. “Myswarm’s sphere of activity is alwayssomewhere between 600 and 1,200 m(1,968 and 3,937 ft),” explains DavidCorral of Mieles Anta, a company thatexports to several foreign markets,including France and Germany. “Theyproduce a mountain honey—darkcolored, rich in diastase and minerals,




HONEY

FOODBASICS


HONEY

FOODBASICS

Apiculture is considered “organic”when apiaries are located in areas ofwild vegetation or amid organically-grown crops. Generous exclusionzones are established to ensure thatbees gather nectar from the desiredflora. The fact of being organic doesnot have significant implications forthe end product, but it does offer aguarantee that it complies withstandards that many countries nowinsist upon. “Why do I makeecological honey? Because that’swhat my customers want!” laughsbeekeeper Christoph Saupp,originally from Austria and nowsettled in Spain. He exports his Mielde Torronteras, labeled with theorganic stamp issued by Spanishcertification agency Sohiscert, toSwitzerland, Germany, Austria andJapan.

Enrique Fernández, whose entireproduction of honey is covered byPDO Miel de Granada, some of it inthe organic category, confirms thatthe two qualifications overlap to alarge degree: “An organic honey and

a honey bearing an EU quality stamp arevirtually indistinguishable: both have beensubjected to very rigorous monitoring. Thereis an enormous difference in organolepticterms, however, between both thesecategories of honey and the industrially-produced ones sold in supermarkets.” Hemarkets his honey under the Biolanjar brand,backed by the Andalusian EcologicalFarming Committee, having startedproducing organic honey “…because wehardly needed to make any changes to whatwe were producing already”. David Corralhad much the same experience: aftermaking and marketing Mieles Anta for over25 years, he needed to make only minorchanges to qualify for certification by theRegulatory Council of Galician EcologicalAgriculture. Interestingly, his reason for doingso was that a French customer had enquiredabout his organic credentials.

Both men are representative of an apiculturalapproach based on a profound respect forthe environment which is, after all, the milieuin which their bees do their work (beesaccount for 70-90% of the pollination carriedout by insects). Whether organic honeyproducers or not, nearly everyone

interviewed for this report had some sort ofemotional (often family) link with theapicultural world. Beekeeping seems to bemore than just a commercial activity: someapiarists combine it with other jobs in quitevaried walks of life—working in a museum, inthe field of law, music-making (PepeLoeches, beekeeper and producer of CruzReal honey, has won four Latin GrammyAwards, interspersing periods spent in theAlcarria countryside with others in recordingstudios in Mexico and Miami)—and they lovedoing it. This attitude to the business has aknock-on effect on the quality of their honey,according to Gregorio Martinez. As wevisited his hives in La Alcarria, he declared:“Apiculture takes an enormous amount oftime and effort, and I do it because I believein beekeeping and I love it. That’s why, whenI’m choosing a base location for my bees,the first thing I look for is a place that I likemyself; I know that they’ll be happiest in anidyllic natural setting like this one, with thismarvelous landscape and vegetation, andI’m quite convinced that it shows in thehoney—there’s something special about it.”

O R G A N I C A P I C U L T U R E A N D T H E R O M A N C E O F B E E K E E P I N G

fact that the woody flavor of this localspecialty lacks the usual hint ofbitterness is explained by the fact thatthere is no heather in these mountains.Granada’s beekeepers typicallypractice vertical transhumance. Welearn from Gerald Brenan that, backin the 1920s, the beekeeper in Yegen,the Granada village where he lived,had to “…convey his hives on theback of a mule, up and down themountain.” Nowadays, the hives aretaken to areas nearer the sea:Granada’s tropical coast provides theideal habitat for growing tropicalspecies, and is the fount of the onlyavocado honey with an EU-backedagri-food guarantee: PDO Miel deGranada. This exotic honey has aslightly salty, nutty tang, and is one ofthe most intriguing examples of thebiodiversity contained within thisprovince. Ninety-two different kindsof pollen have been identified withinits 12,000 sq km (4,633 sq mi) area.

A taste of the northThe corner of the Iberian Peninsuladiagonally opposite Granada isoccupied by the autonomous region ofGalicia, production zone of honeyscovered by PGI Miel de Galicia. Thereis a long history of beekeeping in thesenorthwestern mountains, evidence ofwhich survives in the form of remainsof circular stone structures known asalbarizas, or cortines, which forcenturies protected the hives placedinside them from such hazards asbears, thieves, wind and fire. Theystand as monuments to the historicalimportance of honey in the local diet,both for its nutritional value and as anatural sweetening agent. It was notsupplanted until beet sugar went intogeneral production, cane sugar havingremained beyond the reach of theserural communities.Now, as then, most of Galicia’sregistered hives are concentrated in

this mountainous area. The honeymade here is different from the typesconsidered so far: “Miel de Galiciahoney is distinctive because of thelocal climate, which is rainier than inother parts of Spain and subject to theeffects of winds off the Atlantic. Inconsequence, the granitic soil is moreacidic and humus-rich, and a differentkind of vegetation grows in it,”explains Ester Ordoñez, president ofthe PGI’s Regulatory Council. There isno trace of plants of the Mediterraneantype in these woodlands, but, rather,an abundance of honey-producingflora in the form of oak and chestnuttrees, bramble and heather. “Myswarm’s sphere of activity is alwayssomewhere between 600 and 1,200 m(1,968 and 3,937 ft),” explains DavidCorral of Mieles Anta, a company thatexports to several foreign markets,including France and Germany. “Theyproduce a mountain honey—darkcolored, rich in diastase and minerals,




and with a slightly bitter aftertaste.”By contrast, the eucalyptus honeyproduced near the Galician coast ispaler and sweeter than those describedby David Corral. For apiculturalist JoséMaría Seijo, its strong, idiosyncraticaroma and other properties are typicalof Galician honey, which he attributesto “everything else in its pollenspectrum apart from eucalyptus. Inour honey, this means traces of wildplants, fruit trees and legumes,nuances of which temper the balsamicqualities of eucalyptus.”

From honeycombto palateWith its different origins and varieties,honey has always been present inSpanish gastronomy and its variousregional culinary traditions. Granada,

for example, is an excellent place tofind evidence of the importance ofhoney in the popular cuisine ofAndalusia, an obvious legacy fromArab pastrymaking, in whoseingredients honey was fundamental,for both technical reasons (for itspreserving properties) and culinaryones (its sweetness and flavor). It wasused in Spain’s eastern coastal region,Levante, from the late Middle Ages onin conjunction with almonds (anotherraw material produced in abundancein that part of the country) for makingtwo types of turrón—Alicante andJijona—that are among Spain’s mosttypical sweets.Nowadays, in both domestic andrestaurant kitchens, honey is still usedin its natural state as a delicious,healthy foodstuff, as well as providingthe point of departure for morecomplicated creations. Héctor López (of

HONEY

FOODBASICS

HONEY

FOODBASICS

www.mieldelaalcarria.orgPDO Miel de La Alcarria (Spanish)

www.mieldegranada.comPDO Miel de Granada (Spanish)

www.mieldegalicia.orgPGI Miel de Galicia (Galician,Spanish)

www.domielvilluercasibores.comDO Villuercas-Ibores, constitutionpending (English, Spanish)

www.guiarepsol.com/es_en/gastronomia/reportajes/rutas_denominacion_origen/Miel_Alcarria.aspxTourist route for exploring LaAlcarria (English)

www.casadelamiel.org/Apicultural information andpromotion center located on theCanary Island of Tenerife (Spanish)

W E B S I T E Sthat it is not too attention-grabbing.”In his restaurant, he also plays withthe textures of honey, liquefying it toform part of a brine solution in whichhe marinates oily fish such as salmon.As he explains, “the mixture gives adelicately delicious edge to the flavorwithout being cloyingly honey-flavored.” Adolfo rounds off ourconversation with one final piece ofadvice, which I now pass on to you:“When using honey in cooking, treat itwith the same delicacy that you want itto give you in the flavor of the finisheddish.”

Santiago Sánchez Segura has workedas a trainee journalist for regional radioand television in Asturias and in theEconomic and Commercial Office of theSpanish Embassy in Miami. He iscurrently an intern at SpainGourmetour.

presses the point, and warns that “attemperatures above 28ºC (82ºF), honeyloses its antiseptic properties, and above60 (140) it loses its aromas” (or, to putit in terms more relevant to domesticcooking, we should liquefy honey byheating it in a bain-marie, and never letit boil).The aromatic essences present in LaAlcarria honey are what Adolfo likesmost about a product that he describesas being “full of sunshine”. To get thebest out of it, this La Mancha-basedchef recommends “using the honeysubtly, so that it contributes its naturalaromas and gentle sweetness withoutoverwhelming other flavors.” To thatend, he tries “…to use it with extremedelicacy as a counterbalance to savoryflavors. For example, with roast lamb,I use it diffusely in two different partsof the dish (painted on with a littlebrush and then browned, and as anintegral element of the wine sauce) so

Restaurante España, in Lugo,northwestern Spain) substitutes honeyfor sugar to reduce the acidity in highpH foods such as game meats, and alsocapitalizes on its creamy texture to addan element of interest to certain dishes:his Vieira con emulsión de patata y cebollacaramelizada (Scallop with potatoemulsion and caramelized onion) is oneexample. Dishes of this sort call forhoney to be handled with care andmanipulated as little as possible so thatits qualities are kept intact: “It’simportant not to overheat honey; that’swhy, when we make our honey jelly, weheat only a small proportion of the totalamount we’re going to use, and whenwe’ve obtained the texture we want wemix it in with the rest, which stillretains all its finer points,” says Héctor.As a committed exponent of healthyeating, Adolfo Muñoz (of AdolfoRestaurante in Toledo, central Spain)

Guadalajara

France

Port

ugal Cuenca

Granada

A CoruñaLugo

Pontevedra Ourense1

Canary Islands

Balearic Islands

2

3

1. PGI Miel de Galicia2. PDO Miel de la Alcarria3. PDO Miel de Granada




and with a slightly bitter aftertaste.”By contrast, the eucalyptus honeyproduced near the Galician coast ispaler and sweeter than those describedby David Corral. For apiculturalist JoséMaría Seijo, its strong, idiosyncraticaroma and other properties are typicalof Galician honey, which he attributesto “everything else in its pollenspectrum apart from eucalyptus. Inour honey, this means traces of wildplants, fruit trees and legumes,nuances of which temper the balsamicqualities of eucalyptus.”

From honeycombto palateWith its different origins and varieties,honey has always been present inSpanish gastronomy and its variousregional culinary traditions. Granada,

for example, is an excellent place tofind evidence of the importance ofhoney in the popular cuisine ofAndalusia, an obvious legacy fromArab pastrymaking, in whoseingredients honey was fundamental,for both technical reasons (for itspreserving properties) and culinaryones (its sweetness and flavor). It wasused in Spain’s eastern coastal region,Levante, from the late Middle Ages onin conjunction with almonds (anotherraw material produced in abundancein that part of the country) for makingtwo types of turrón—Alicante andJijona—that are among Spain’s mosttypical sweets.Nowadays, in both domestic andrestaurant kitchens, honey is still usedin its natural state as a delicious,healthy foodstuff, as well as providingthe point of departure for morecomplicated creations. Héctor López (of

HONEY

FOODBASICS

HONEY

FOODBASICS

www.mieldelaalcarria.orgPDO Miel de La Alcarria (Spanish)

www.mieldegranada.comPDO Miel de Granada (Spanish)

www.mieldegalicia.orgPGI Miel de Galicia (Galician,Spanish)

www.domielvilluercasibores.comDO Villuercas-Ibores, constitutionpending (English, Spanish)

www.guiarepsol.com/es_en/gastronomia/reportajes/rutas_denominacion_origen/Miel_Alcarria.aspxTourist route for exploring LaAlcarria (English)

www.casadelamiel.org/Apicultural information andpromotion center located on theCanary Island of Tenerife (Spanish)

W E B S I T E Sthat it is not too attention-grabbing.”In his restaurant, he also plays withthe textures of honey, liquefying it toform part of a brine solution in whichhe marinates oily fish such as salmon.As he explains, “the mixture gives adelicately delicious edge to the flavorwithout being cloyingly honey-flavored.” Adolfo rounds off ourconversation with one final piece ofadvice, which I now pass on to you:“When using honey in cooking, treat itwith the same delicacy that you want itto give you in the flavor of the finisheddish.”

Santiago Sánchez Segura has workedas a trainee journalist for regional radioand television in Asturias and in theEconomic and Commercial Office of theSpanish Embassy in Miami. He iscurrently an intern at SpainGourmetour.

presses the point, and warns that “attemperatures above 28ºC (82ºF), honeyloses its antiseptic properties, and above60 (140) it loses its aromas” (or, to putit in terms more relevant to domesticcooking, we should liquefy honey byheating it in a bain-marie, and never letit boil).The aromatic essences present in LaAlcarria honey are what Adolfo likesmost about a product that he describesas being “full of sunshine”. To get thebest out of it, this La Mancha-basedchef recommends “using the honeysubtly, so that it contributes its naturalaromas and gentle sweetness withoutoverwhelming other flavors.” To thatend, he tries “…to use it with extremedelicacy as a counterbalance to savoryflavors. For example, with roast lamb,I use it diffusely in two different partsof the dish (painted on with a littlebrush and then browned, and as anintegral element of the wine sauce) so

Restaurante España, in Lugo,northwestern Spain) substitutes honeyfor sugar to reduce the acidity in highpH foods such as game meats, and alsocapitalizes on its creamy texture to addan element of interest to certain dishes:his Vieira con emulsión de patata y cebollacaramelizada (Scallop with potatoemulsion and caramelized onion) is oneexample. Dishes of this sort call forhoney to be handled with care andmanipulated as little as possible so thatits qualities are kept intact: “It’simportant not to overheat honey; that’swhy, when we make our honey jelly, weheat only a small proportion of the totalamount we’re going to use, and whenwe’ve obtained the texture we want wemix it in with the rest, which stillretains all its finer points,” says Héctor.As a committed exponent of healthyeating, Adolfo Muñoz (of AdolfoRestaurante in Toledo, central Spain)

Guadalajara

France

Port

ugal Cuenca

Granada

A CoruñaLugo

Pontevedra Ourense1

Canary Islands

Balearic Islands

2

3

1. PGI Miel de Galicia2. PDO Miel de la Alcarria3. PDO Miel de Granada


09 PREMIO AF.qxd 24/11/09 19:50 Página 90


It’s first thing in the morning.Participants are already arriving at theSimone Ortega School of Catering inMóstoles (Madrid), and they knowwhat they have to do: the challenge isto create a unique dish, one withcharacter all its own, that reflects thechef’s individual approach and masteryof various cooking techniques, bothtraditional and ultra-modern, andfamiliarity with ingredients chosenfrom among Spain’s finest foodproducts.It won’t be easy. The panel of judges(made up of respected figures from theSpanish food world) will bescrutinizing each dish submitted,assessing it from fundamental conceptthrough to fine-tuning, for evidence ofthe training its creator has absorbedover the last 12 months spent in Spainunder the wings of such luminaries asFerran Adrià, Juan Mari Arzak, QuiqueDacosta, Pedro Subijana and masterchocolatier Oriol Balaguer.For 14 young chefs from Germany,

China, Denmark, the US, Japan andSwitzerland, this competition is anopportunity to end their stay in Spainwith a final flourish before headingback to their countries of origin andstarting a new phase in theirprofessional lives. The trainingprogram they have just completed, anICEX initiative, was first launched inSeptember 2007 and focuses primarilyon contemporary Spanish cuisine. Theprogram consists of three distinct parts(Spain Gourmetour, Nos. 72, 73 and74): a three-week introductory courseabout Spanish gastronomy andculture, which incorporates trips, winetastings, talks and roundtablediscussions, cultural itineraries, visitsto big name wineries and olive oilmills, cooking demonstrations andfood sampling in some of the bestrestaurants in Spain, both traditionaland cutting-edge. The next stageconsists of practical experienceplacements lasting several months in atleast two internationally-known

Spanish restaurants. The program endswith the cooking competition thatcompletes participants’ stay in Spain,and the start of the course for the nextintake of young chefs from abroad.

Winning waysBack now to September 2009 and thesecond intake’s final competition. Theparticipants go into the central kitchenone by one in 10-minute intervals.They have three hours in which toproduce a creation that will make thejury sit up and take notice, using atleast three ingredients from thefollowing list, compiled by the jurymembers: extra virgin olive oil; LasPedroñeras purple garlic; La Verapimentón (a type of paprika fromSpain); La Mancha saffron; PedroXiménez; Cava; anchovies in olive oilor canned albacore tuna; Tetilla, LaPeral or Idiazabal cheese; Ibérico curedham; and Tudela artichokes.After a morning of intenseconcentration, given an added zing of

TEXTRODRIGO GARCÍA

FERNÁNDEZ/©ICEX

PHOTOSJOSÉ ANTONIO CRESCENTE


PLATEFUL

There’s excitement, nervousness and a will to win inthe air. Everyone’s sights are set on the final prize, andall are determined to show just how good they are.No—we’re not in a sports arena or at a job interviewfor high-fliers. This competition is all about smells,flavors, and the very best in Spanish food: it’s the finalcompetition in the second (2008-2009) edition of theprogram created by ICEX to train young professionalchefs in top-level Spanish cuisine.

Competitive Cooking

Quite a




It’s first thing in the morning.Participants are already arriving at theSimone Ortega School of Catering inMóstoles (Madrid), and they knowwhat they have to do: the challenge isto create a unique dish, one withcharacter all its own, that reflects thechef’s individual approach and masteryof various cooking techniques, bothtraditional and ultra-modern, andfamiliarity with ingredients chosenfrom among Spain’s finest foodproducts.It won’t be easy. The panel of judges(made up of respected figures from theSpanish food world) will bescrutinizing each dish submitted,assessing it from fundamental conceptthrough to fine-tuning, for evidence ofthe training its creator has absorbedover the last 12 months spent in Spainunder the wings of such luminaries asFerran Adrià, Juan Mari Arzak, QuiqueDacosta, Pedro Subijana and masterchocolatier Oriol Balaguer.For 14 young chefs from Germany,

China, Denmark, the US, Japan andSwitzerland, this competition is anopportunity to end their stay in Spainwith a final flourish before headingback to their countries of origin andstarting a new phase in theirprofessional lives. The trainingprogram they have just completed, anICEX initiative, was first launched inSeptember 2007 and focuses primarilyon contemporary Spanish cuisine. Theprogram consists of three distinct parts(Spain Gourmetour, Nos. 72, 73 and74): a three-week introductory courseabout Spanish gastronomy andculture, which incorporates trips, winetastings, talks and roundtablediscussions, cultural itineraries, visitsto big name wineries and olive oilmills, cooking demonstrations andfood sampling in some of the bestrestaurants in Spain, both traditionaland cutting-edge. The next stageconsists of practical experienceplacements lasting several months in atleast two internationally-known

Spanish restaurants. The program endswith the cooking competition thatcompletes participants’ stay in Spain,and the start of the course for the nextintake of young chefs from abroad.

Winning waysBack now to September 2009 and thesecond intake’s final competition. Theparticipants go into the central kitchenone by one in 10-minute intervals.They have three hours in which toproduce a creation that will make thejury sit up and take notice, using atleast three ingredients from thefollowing list, compiled by the jurymembers: extra virgin olive oil; LasPedroñeras purple garlic; La Verapimentón (a type of paprika fromSpain); La Mancha saffron; PedroXiménez; Cava; anchovies in olive oilor canned albacore tuna; Tetilla, LaPeral or Idiazabal cheese; Ibérico curedham; and Tudela artichokes.After a morning of intenseconcentration, given an added zing of

TEXTRODRIGO GARCÍA

FERNÁNDEZ/©ICEX

PHOTOSJOSÉ ANTONIO CRESCENTE


PLATEFUL

There’s excitement, nervousness and a will to win inthe air. Everyone’s sights are set on the final prize, andall are determined to show just how good they are.No—we’re not in a sports arena or at a job interviewfor high-fliers. This competition is all about smells,flavors, and the very best in Spanish food: it’s the finalcompetition in the second (2008-2009) edition of theprogram created by ICEX to train young professionalchefs in top-level Spanish cuisine.

Competitive Cooking

Quite a












I N P I C T U R E S












I N P I C T U R E S
















RECIPES
















RECIPES


10 RECETAS AF.qxd 24/11/09 19:36 Página 96

Recommended wineEl Borujo 2008 (DO Valle de Güímar),by Juan Francisco Fariña Pérez. Thiswine is made from Listan Blanco(grown at an altitude of 1,400 m /4,600 ft), Gual and Muscatel grapesand stored in new oak barrels that passon aromas of coconut and vanilla.These form an explosive combinationwith the mango, and especially withthe smoked mackerel.


To servePour the soup into 4 dishes. Top withthe mackerel and diced mango.Sprinkle with powdered ginger andfinish with the microgreens.

Preparation time25 minutes


In the Canaries, fish and fruit come atthe same time of year—summer—escorted by the cooling trade winds.Microgreens and ginger give a pleasantfreshness to this combination, whichfeatures on our menu for a number ofweeks. And our starters always includefruit, such as pineapple, fig,watermelon, papaya and banana.

SERVES 4For the cold mango soup: 800 g / 1 3/4 lb

mango, peeled and stoned; 25 g / 1 oz

ginger; 50 ml / 2 oz extra virgin olive oil; 10 ml

/ 2 tsp apple vinegar; salt; white pepper.

Others: 200 g / 7 oz smoked mackerel, with

no skin or bones; 200 g / 7 oz mango;

microgreens; powdered ginger.

Start by making the cold mango soup.Blend the mango with the ginger,vinegar, salt and pepper. Beat in theextra virgin olive oil until thick andsmooth, adding more salt if necessary.Fillet the mackerel, serving 50 g / 2 ozper person.Peel 200 g / 7 oz of mango and cutinto 1/2 cm / 1/4 in thick dice, threeper person.

MANGO

RECIPES Cold mango soup with smokedmackerel and ginger(Sopa fría de mango con caballaahumada y jengibre)



Recommended wineEl Borujo 2008 (DO Valle de Güímar),by Juan Francisco Fariña Pérez. Thiswine is made from Listan Blanco(grown at an altitude of 1,400 m /4,600 ft), Gual and Muscatel grapesand stored in new oak barrels that passon aromas of coconut and vanilla.These form an explosive combinationwith the mango, and especially withthe smoked mackerel.


To servePour the soup into 4 dishes. Top withthe mackerel and diced mango.Sprinkle with powdered ginger andfinish with the microgreens.



In the Canaries, fish and fruit come atthe same time of year—summer—escorted by the cooling trade winds.Microgreens and ginger give a pleasantfreshness to this combination, whichfeatures on our menu for a number ofweeks. And our starters always includefruit, such as pineapple, fig,watermelon, papaya and banana.

SERVES 4For the cold mango soup: 800 g / 1 3/4 lb

mango, peeled and stoned; 25 g / 1 oz

ginger; 50 ml / 2 oz extra virgin olive oil; 10 ml

/ 2 tsp apple vinegar; salt; white pepper.

Others: 200 g / 7 oz smoked mackerel, with

no skin or bones; 200 g / 7 oz mango;

microgreens; powdered ginger.

Start by making the cold mango soup.Blend the mango with the ginger,vinegar, salt and pepper. Beat in theextra virgin olive oil until thick andsmooth, adding more salt if necessary.Fillet the mackerel, serving 50 g / 2 ozper person.Peel 200 g / 7 oz of mango and cutinto 1/2 cm / 1/4 in thick dice, threeper person.

MANGO

RECIPES Cold mango soup with smokedmackerel and ginger(Sopa fría de mango con caballaahumada y jengibre)


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We feel this dish represents the essenceof the Canaries, with its fusion ofpeppery, balsamic, sweet and dairyflavors. The Canary Island of La Palmaproduces excellent almonds, hereenhanced by fleur de sel from theisland’s Fuencaliente saltworks (SpainGourmetour No. 76). The Canaries areSpain’s largest producer of goats’ milk,making it an excellent representative ofthe islands’ gastronomy and the perfectco-star of this dish.

SERVES 4For the mango sorbet: 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz ripe

mangoes, peeled; 60 g / 2 oz inverted sugar;

20 ml / 4 tsp lemon juice.

For the goats’ milk yogurt foam: 500 g / 1

lb 2 oz goats’ milk yogurt; 100 ml / 1/2 cup

cream; 75 g / 1/3 cup sugar.

For the Palma island almond flakes:

8 Palma Island almonds, coarsely grated.

For the multicolored pepper oil:

30 g / 2 tbsp ground Sichuan, Jamaica, pink,

white and black pepper; 100 ml / 1/2 cup

sunflower oil.

Others: 4 shoots lemon balm; fleur de sel

from the Fuencaliente saltworks.

Mango sorbetBlend the mango with the invertedsugar and lemon juice. Pour into asorbet maker and freeze.

Goats’ milk yogurt foamMix the goats’ milk yogurt with thecream and sugar and transfer to asiphon. Attach the cartridge and chill.

Multicolored pepper oilAdd all the different types of groundpepper to the sunflower oil, stir andset aside.

To serveOn one side of a rectangular dish placesome yogurt foam and top with thePalma Island almond flakes and a littlefleur de sel. On the other side of thedish place the mango sorbet with thelemon balm shoots and a littlemulticolored pepper oil.


Recommended wineTestamento Esencia 2006 (DO Abona),by Sociedad Cooperativa Cumbres deAbona. This 100% Malvasía wine has avery pleasant golden color, aromas ofcooked fruit and very good structure,making it an excellent partner forstone fruits, such as mango, enhancedhere by the milky, toasty notes of thealmonds. The ideal servingtemperature is 9-11ºC (48-51ºF).

MANGO

RECIPES

MANGO

RECIPES

Mango sorbet and goats’ milkyogurt with Palma island almondflakes and multicolored pepper

(Sorbete demango con yogurde cabra, virutasde almendrapalmeray pimientasdel mundo)



CONSERVAS ROSARA

BUSINESSWATCH

In the midst of a dusty plain, as closeto true desert as anything comes inSpain, the valley of the river Ebro(northeast Spain) is as lush and greenas the landscape around it isalarmingly barren. If ever there were aparadise for vegetables, it’s the 200 km(656 mi) stretch of Spain’s secondlongest river (after the Tagus) lyingbetween the regional capitals ofLogroño (La Rioja) and Zaragoza(Aragón). The fertility of the Ribera delEbro—and its abundance of freshwater for irrigation—is prodigious andlegendary. Almost everything worthgrowing is successfully cultivated here,but the local asparagus, artichoke, andpeppers (especially the famouspimiento de piquillo de Lodosa, littletriangular slightly hot red peppers,Spain Gourmetour No. 76) areparticularly esteemed.Agriculture in this part of the world isclosely linked with another industrywhose fame has spread far and wide.The Ebro’s canning companies, whichspecialize in bottling and canningvegetables for use throughout the year,developed out of the local tradition ofpreserving food products at home.Sometimes there is only a fine linebetween domestic custom andcommercial production, as EvaristoJimenez knows better than anyone.Twenty-three years ago Evaristo wasbottling tomatoes and peppers in thegarage of his home in Andosilla,Navarre (northern Spain). Now he andhis family run one of the mostinnovative and successful of theregion’s many canning companies, ifnot one of the largest, and thosetomatoes and peppers (to mention just

two of a vast product range) are sold asfar afield as the US and Japan.The small town of Andosilla is situatedjust 3 km (9.8 mi) from the river, atthe heart of the Ebro’s horticulturaluniverse. The community itself haslittle to recommend beside a prettychurch, a couple of restaurants servinghome-cooked vegetable dishes such asmenestra navarra (boiled and sautéedvegetables) and bacalao al ajoarriero(salt cod cooked with garlic, extravirgin olive oil and egg), and the warmand hospitable, almost Mediterraneancharacter of its inhabitants. Its onegenuine claim to fame is the quality ofthe local vegetables and, inconsequence, the excellence of itspreserves. In 1950 there were no lessthan 14 canning companies inAndosilla alone, and if this number isnow reduced to five, vegetablepreserving still represents a sizeableactivity for a country town with apopulation of just 2,700 souls.From the beginning, Conservas Rosarawas destined to be different from othercompanies. Where the majority,hitherto, were content to stick withtraditional products—tinnedasparagus, bottled artichoke hearts,and so on—and a traditional client

base, Evaristo planned on another wayof doing things. “From the start it wasclear in his mind that he would dosomething different,” says Evaristo’sson Saúl, who, along with his fatherand sister Sara, make up themanagement team at ConservasRosara. “He saw that we had anopportunity to come up with aproduct based on careful selection ofraw materials, but graduallyorientating the business towards agourmet market.”Saúl is a dark-complexioned youngman of solid country build, dressed inblack and wearing thin-frameddesigner glasses. After studyingmarketing in Madrid he returned toAndosilla, where he still lives,preferring the pace and peace of rurallife over the frenzy of the city. Hissister Sara studied financialmanagement at the University ofDeusto in Bilbao, then came back towork in the family business.It is a busy morning in late September:pepper season is underway and thefactory has just received a delivery ofpiquillo peppers. Saúl shows me thewooden crates overflowing with thesmall, conical, scarlet-skinnedpeppers. These were grown by hisuncle, one of Rosara’s 400 suppliers,who has been their main piquillosupplier since day one. In due coursethey will be roasted in the factory’ssplendid old oven, fired with beechwood from the forests of northernNavarre. Emerging from the oven theyare transferred to a machine of thefamily’s own invention whereby thepepper is destalked, then peeled andcleaned, all without coming into


CONSERVAS ROSARA

BUSINESSWATCH

contact with water. Just like thecompany’s products, the factorycombines tradition and modernity inequal measure: Saúl points out thetanks where legumes are first soakedovernight, then cooked (just like inanyone’s kitchen at home), beforeshowing me the laboratory (ConservasRosara complies with the ISO 9001quality standard) and the all-stainlesssteel kitchens where new recipes aretried and tested.

Home on the rangeOne of the salient facts about Rosara isbrought home to the visitor as soon ashe walks in the door of the office, inan industrial park on the outskirts ofAndosilla. A glass-fronted cupboard inthe entrance shows off the family’sdazzlingly varied product range, whichincludes as many as 185 distinct lines,all attractively packaged in the brand’straditional but uncluttered style, withpaper ruffles on the jar tops, the flat

tins wrapped in paper. The eye rangesgreedily over this cornucopia, pickingup first the traditional Navarresecanned vegetables (de toda la vida—since forever—as the Spanish say), theasparagus and artichoke, the tomatoand piquillo pepper, simply preservedin their own juices, and then alights onthe less familiar things: the mousses,the cream soups, the sauces, the jamsand pickles, the stuffed vegetables, thebottled legumes, the fruit in syrup… Icounted ten products based onasparagus, almost 20 different

treatments of the artichoke, and anamazing 25 variations on the theme ofpiquillo pepper. I notice that some ofthe ingredients bear European qualityseals, such as the Protected GeographicIndication (PGI) Espárrago de Navarra(asparagus) and DO (Designation ofOrigin) Pimiento de Piquillo de Lodosa(pepper).An important part of his father’sinitial vision for the company,explains Saúl, was that quality wouldgo hand-in-hand with variety. “Wehave always produced the classics ofthe region. Apart from those, we havedeveloped recipes based on the dishesof our cuisine, such as bacalao alajoarriero and menestra. We’ve alsobrought in innovations, products thathad never been made for preservingcans. For example, we were the firstto make stuffed pimientos del piquilloin tins, back in 1987.” (Theircatalogue now lists piquillo peppersstuffed with any of the followingcombinations: salt cod, meat, cepmushrooms and apple sauce, mixedshellfish, sea urchin roe, hake,monkfish, sole, lobster and scallops.)“We were also pioneers in mousses,and we were the first to bring outstuffed artichokes. Stuffed asparagus,too.” (In case you’re doubtingwhether asparagus can be stuffed,Rosara’s catalogue offers them filledwith lobster and with foie gras.)The family aims to produce at leastsix new products every year. Youmight think such a hugely-variedrange might blur the edges of thecompany’s stated drive towardsquality. A case of having too manyeggs in one basket? Saúl smiles

12 ROSARA IN_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/11/09 11:24 Página 110 (INGLES plancha)



We feel this dish represents the essenceof the Canaries, with its fusion ofpeppery, balsamic, sweet and dairyflavors. The Canary Island of La Palmaproduces excellent almonds, hereenhanced by fleur de sel from theisland’s Fuencaliente saltworks (SpainGourmetour No. 76). The Canaries areSpain’s largest producer of goats’ milk,making it an excellent representative ofthe islands’ gastronomy and the perfectco-star of this dish.

SERVES 4For the mango sorbet: 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz ripe

mangoes, peeled; 60 g / 2 oz inverted sugar;

20 ml / 4 tsp lemon juice.

For the goats’ milk yogurt foam: 500 g / 1

lb 2 oz goats’ milk yogurt; 100 ml / 1/2 cup

cream; 75 g / 1/3 cup sugar.

For the Palma island almond flakes:

8 Palma Island almonds, coarsely grated.

For the multicolored pepper oil:

30 g / 2 tbsp ground Sichuan, Jamaica, pink,

white and black pepper; 100 ml / 1/2 cup

sunflower oil.

Others: 4 shoots lemon balm; fleur de sel

from the Fuencaliente saltworks.

Mango sorbetBlend the mango with the invertedsugar and lemon juice. Pour into asorbet maker and freeze.

Goats’ milk yogurt foamMix the goats’ milk yogurt with thecream and sugar and transfer to asiphon. Attach the cartridge and chill.

Multicolored pepper oilAdd all the different types of groundpepper to the sunflower oil, stir andset aside.

To serveOn one side of a rectangular dish placesome yogurt foam and top with thePalma Island almond flakes and a littlefleur de sel. On the other side of thedish place the mango sorbet with thelemon balm shoots and a littlemulticolored pepper oil.


Recommended wineTestamento Esencia 2006 (DO Abona),by Sociedad Cooperativa Cumbres deAbona. This 100% Malvasía wine has avery pleasant golden color, aromas ofcooked fruit and very good structure,making it an excellent partner forstone fruits, such as mango, enhancedhere by the milky, toasty notes of thealmonds. The ideal servingtemperature is 9-11ºC (48-51ºF).

MANGO

RECIPES

MANGO

RECIPES

Mango sorbet and goats’ milkyogurt with Palma island almondflakes and multicolored pepper

(Sorbete demango con yogurde cabra, virutasde almendrapalmeray pimientasdel mundo)


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Conservas

In today's crowded marketplace, it sometimes paysto do things differently. Conservas Rosara is afamily business specializing in the traditionalproducts of its native Navarre. But, as PaulRichardson discovers, the family's interest invariety, high quality, and the export market istaking this small company in some radical newdirections.

RosaraTextPaul Richardson/©ICEX

PhotosConservas Rosara

Natural Selection



A 100% fruit dessert suggesting thearomas of some of the wines made inthe volcanic parts of the CanaryIslands, especially on Lanzarote,possibly one of the world’s mostbeautiful vine-growing landscapes.

SERVES 4For the papaya soup: 400 g / 14 oz papaya,

peeled; 150 ml / 2/3 cups orange juice.

For the orange blossom honey jelly:

100 g / 3 1/2 oz orange blossom honey (PDO

Miel de Granada); 100 g / 3 1/2 oz water;

2 g / 1/9 oz agar agar.

For the mandarin granita: 800 g / 1 3/4 lb

mandarins.

Others: 8 slices mango; orange zest;

kumquat; passion fruit seeds; flowers:

nasturtiums, pansies, marigolds, dianthus

chinensis.

Papaya soupBlend the papaya with the orange juiceuntil smooth.

Orange blossom honey jellyAdd the honey to the water and bringto a boil. Add the agar agar. Transfer toa 1/2 cm / 1/4 in high mold and leaveto set.

Mandarin granitaGrate the mandarin peel, then squeeze themandarins and collect the juice. Placeboth peel and juice in a Pacojet containerand freeze for about twelve hours.

Mango slicesPeel as many mangoes as needed andslice finely in the electric slicer. Serve 2slices per person.

To servePour the papaya soup into the servingbowls. Top with the mango slices andtop those with the mandarin granita.Finish with the flowers, passion fruitseeds, orange zest, kumquat and orangeblossom honey jelly.


Recommended wineMonje Moscatel 2004 (DO Tacoronte-Acentejo), by Bodegas Monje. This is a100% Muscatel wine, straw-yellow incolor. Its powerful, elegant nose and veryfresh citrus notes in the mouth give atouch of sharpness in combination with apleasant but not excessive sweetness. Allthese characteristics set off the variedcitrus flavors in the dish. The idealserving temperature is 9-11ºC (48-51ºF).

MANGO, PAPAYA AND HONEY

RECIPES

Mango, papaya, citrus fruits and orangeblossom honey(Mango, papaya, cítricos y miel de azahar)




A 100% fruit dessert suggesting thearomas of some of the wines made inthe volcanic parts of the CanaryIslands, especially on Lanzarote,possibly one of the world’s mostbeautiful vine-growing landscapes.

SERVES 4For the papaya soup: 400 g / 14 oz papaya,

peeled; 150 ml / 2/3 cups orange juice.

For the orange blossom honey jelly:

100 g / 3 1/2 oz orange blossom honey (PDO

Miel de Granada); 100 g / 3 1/2 oz water;

2 g / 1/9 oz agar agar.

For the mandarin granita: 800 g / 1 3/4 lb

mandarins.

Others: 8 slices mango; orange zest;

kumquat; passion fruit seeds; flowers:

nasturtiums, pansies, marigolds, dianthus

chinensis.

Papaya soupBlend the papaya with the orange juiceuntil smooth.

Orange blossom honey jellyAdd the honey to the water and bringto a boil. Add the agar agar. Transfer toa 1/2 cm / 1/4 in high mold and leaveto set.

Mandarin granitaGrate the mandarin peel, then squeeze themandarins and collect the juice. Placeboth peel and juice in a Pacojet containerand freeze for about twelve hours.

Mango slicesPeel as many mangoes as needed andslice finely in the electric slicer. Serve 2slices per person.

To servePour the papaya soup into the servingbowls. Top with the mango slices andtop those with the mandarin granita.Finish with the flowers, passion fruitseeds, orange zest, kumquat and orangeblossom honey jelly.


Recommended wineMonje Moscatel 2004 (DO Tacoronte-Acentejo), by Bodegas Monje. This is a100% Muscatel wine, straw-yellow incolor. Its powerful, elegant nose and veryfresh citrus notes in the mouth give atouch of sharpness in combination with apleasant but not excessive sweetness. Allthese characteristics set off the variedcitrus flavors in the dish. The idealserving temperature is 9-11ºC (48-51ºF).

MANGO, PAPAYA AND HONEY

RECIPES

Mango, papaya, citrus fruits and orangeblossom honey(Mango, papaya, cítricos y miel de azahar)




Flor de Guía cheese (from GrandCanary Island, Spain Gourmetour No.74) is undoubtedly one of the mostprestigious of Canary cheeses. Madefrom raw sheeps’, cows’ and goats’milk, and using plant rennet, its slightbitterness contrasts well with therosemary honey, spice and apple. Thiscrémeux is a very versatile dish thatcan be served as a dessert, a pre-dessert or even a starter.

SERVES 4For the Flor de Guía cheese crémeux:

200 g / 7 oz Flor de Guía cheese; 50 ml /

4 tbsp cream; 1 sheet gelatin.

For the rosemary honey veil: 300 g / 10 1/2

oz rosemary honey (PDO Miel de La Alcarria);

water; gelatin sheets.

Others: leaves of lemon, anise, cinnamon and

purple micro-basil; diced cooking apple;

Fuencaliente fleur de sel, spice bread.

Flor de Guía cheese crémeuxHeat the cream with the Flor de Guíacheese in a Thermomix until they arecompletely blended. Add the gelatinafter first soaking it in cold water.Refrigerate the mixture for about 12hours, then beat as if beating cream.

Rosemary honey veilReduce the rosemary honey overmedium heat until it begins to foam.Remove and add water to reach 650 g /1 lb 7 oz. Add the gelatin after firstsoaking it in cold water. Pour ontoshallow flat molds to form strong, thinveils (one per person).

To serveServe the cheese crémeux onto 4dishes and top with the rosemaryhoney veil. Decorate with the micro-basil leaves, diced apple, fleur de seland spice bread.

Preparation time12 hours 30 minutes

Cooking time15 minutes

Recommended wineContiempo Baboso Negro Tinto depostre 2008 (DO Valle del Güímar), byBodegas Arca de Vitis. This purplish-red wine is persistent in the mouth,fruity and balanced, so it marries verywell with cheese, especially with agedand semi-aged cheese, and with a widerange of spices.

HONEY

RECIPES

Crémeux of Flor de Guíacheese with a rosemary honeyveil and micro-basil(Cremoso de queso de flor de Guía,con velo de miel de romero y microalbahacas)




Flor de Guía cheese (from GrandCanary Island, Spain Gourmetour No.74) is undoubtedly one of the mostprestigious of Canary cheeses. Madefrom raw sheeps’, cows’ and goats’milk, and using plant rennet, its slightbitterness contrasts well with therosemary honey, spice and apple. Thiscrémeux is a very versatile dish thatcan be served as a dessert, a pre-dessert or even a starter.

SERVES 4For the Flor de Guía cheese crémeux:

200 g / 7 oz Flor de Guía cheese; 50 ml /

4 tbsp cream; 1 sheet gelatin.

For the rosemary honey veil: 300 g / 10 1/2

oz rosemary honey (PDO Miel de La Alcarria);

water; gelatin sheets.

Others: leaves of lemon, anise, cinnamon and

purple micro-basil; diced cooking apple;

Fuencaliente fleur de sel, spice bread.

Flor de Guía cheese crémeuxHeat the cream with the Flor de Guíacheese in a Thermomix until they arecompletely blended. Add the gelatinafter first soaking it in cold water.Refrigerate the mixture for about 12hours, then beat as if beating cream.

Rosemary honey veilReduce the rosemary honey overmedium heat until it begins to foam.Remove and add water to reach 650 g /1 lb 7 oz. Add the gelatin after firstsoaking it in cold water. Pour ontoshallow flat molds to form strong, thinveils (one per person).

To serveServe the cheese crémeux onto 4dishes and top with the rosemaryhoney veil. Decorate with the micro-basil leaves, diced apple, fleur de seland spice bread.


Cooking time15 minutes

Recommended wineContiempo Baboso Negro Tinto depostre 2008 (DO Valle del Güímar), byBodegas Arca de Vitis. This purplish-red wine is persistent in the mouth,fruity and balanced, so it marries verywell with cheese, especially with agedand semi-aged cheese, and with a widerange of spices.

HONEY

RECIPES

Crémeux of Flor de Guíacheese with a rosemary honeyveil and micro-basil(Cremoso de queso de flor de Guía,con velo de miel de romero y microalbahacas)




The black Canary pig is now beingbred once again. Its meat is of topgastronomic quality and is especiallyappropriate for cooking in stews,especially with legumes. In this dishthe chestnut honey, possibly thebitterest of honeys and certainly astrong-flavored one, makes the idealpartner.

SERVES 4For the black Canary pork cheeks:

8 cheeks of black Canary pork; 50 ml / 4 tbsp

extra virgin olive oil; salt; ground black pepper;

1 vacuum pack; 50 ml / 4 tbsp chestnut

honey (PGI Miel de Galicia); 40 ml / 3 tbsp red

wine.

For the green beans: 200 g / 7 oz green

beans; water; salt.

Others: fleur de sel; 8 fresh chestnuts.

Black Canary pork cheeksSeason the pork cheeks with salt andpepper and place in a vacuum packwith the extra virgin olive oil. Cook ina bain-marie at 65ºC / 149ºF for about12 hours. Open the bag and pour thecontents into a pot with the chestnuthoney and wine. Cook over mediumheat until the sauce is thick.

Green beansBoil in salted water until al dente.

To serveServe two cheeks per person, pourover the sauce and finish with thegreen beans. Add two fresh chestnutsper person and sprinkle with fleur desel.


Cooking time12 hours

Recommended wineTajinaste 4 meses barrica 2008 (DOValle de la Orotava), by BodegasTajinaste. This Listan Negromonovarietal has a clean and shinydeep garnet color. The nose is verycomplex, with toast and vanilla fromthe oak, balanced out by red berriesand touches of spice. It is a wine withbody and sweet tannins, making it anexcellent match for this rich pork dish.

HONEY

RECIPES

HONEY

RECIPES

Black Canarypork cheeklacquered withchestnuthoney(Carrilleradecerdo negrocanario lacadacon mielde castaño)




The black Canary pig is now beingbred once again. Its meat is of topgastronomic quality and is especiallyappropriate for cooking in stews,especially with legumes. In this dishthe chestnut honey, possibly thebitterest of honeys and certainly astrong-flavored one, makes the idealpartner.

SERVES 4For the black Canary pork cheeks:

8 cheeks of black Canary pork; 50 ml / 4 tbsp

extra virgin olive oil; salt; ground black pepper;

1 vacuum pack; 50 ml / 4 tbsp chestnut

honey (PGI Miel de Galicia); 40 ml / 3 tbsp red

wine.

For the green beans: 200 g / 7 oz green

beans; water; salt.

Others: fleur de sel; 8 fresh chestnuts.

Black Canary pork cheeksSeason the pork cheeks with salt andpepper and place in a vacuum packwith the extra virgin olive oil. Cook ina bain-marie at 65ºC / 149ºF for about12 hours. Open the bag and pour thecontents into a pot with the chestnuthoney and wine. Cook over mediumheat until the sauce is thick.

Green beansBoil in salted water until al dente.

To serveServe two cheeks per person, pourover the sauce and finish with thegreen beans. Add two fresh chestnutsper person and sprinkle with fleur desel.


Cooking time12 hours

Recommended wineTajinaste 4 meses barrica 2008 (DOValle de la Orotava), by BodegasTajinaste. This Listan Negromonovarietal has a clean and shinydeep garnet color. The nose is verycomplex, with toast and vanilla fromthe oak, balanced out by red berriesand touches of spice. It is a wine withbody and sweet tannins, making it anexcellent match for this rich pork dish.

HONEY

RECIPES

HONEY

RECIPES

Black Canarypork cheeklacquered withchestnuthoney(Carrilleradecerdo negrocanario lacadacon mielde castaño)


Jerez o

11 EN MARCHA_AF.qxd 18/11/09 15:53 Página 106

sherry vinegar and La Vera pimentón (atype of paprika from Spain).” When itcomes to local products, he is full ofadmiration for the quality of the meat(such as Chinese sucking pig), fish andselect vegetables, and foodstuffs broughtin from elsewhere, such as Japaneseoysters and Australian lamb.Restaurant Martin’s setting is anattraction in itself: it occupies the threefloors and terrace of La Villa Rouge, acolonial-style building dating from 1921,now refurbished by Berasategui and hispartners. Diners are served in seven“salons”, four on the third floor and threeon the second, which can be reserved forexclusive use. The ground floor is givenover to a bar that stays open until 2 am,with live shows every night. The terrace,which is right in Xujiahui Park, is usedfor open-air lunches and dinners and isalso a good place to enjoy a late-nightcocktail from the indoor bar.

Date of foundation (RestaurantMartin): 2009Workforce: 40 employeesMartín Berasategui’s restaurants:Restaurante Martín Berasategui inLasarte; Restaurant Martin in Shanghai.He is also involved in an advisorycapacity with the Martín Berasateguirestaurant in the Abama Golf & SpaResort hotel complex in Tenerife, andwith the Loidi and Lasarte restaurants inHotel Condes in Barcelona.www.restaurantmartin.com.cn

Cascajares takes USmarket by storm“Our factory in Dueñas (a little town ofaround 3,000 inhabitants in Palenciaprovince, in the northern half of Spain)

supplies the eurozone countries and

Asia. Our next objective is to reach the

North American market through our

new factory in Quebec.” Chairman of

Cascajares, Alfonso Jiménez, is

explaining the rationale behind the latest

move in his company’s

internationalization strategy. His

company has won the Quebec

Businessmen Association’s prize for the

best business plan in the Montérégie

region, an annual award for the most

outstanding business project in that

province of Canada.

Cascajares’s plans are ambitious,

involving an investment of 1.5 million

euros in Canada, which it is hoped will

help it achieve its export target of 50% of

turnover. The new factory met its first

orders in 2009, its customer focus being

in the middle-to-top levels of the

hospitality industry in Quebec; the next

phase, starting in 2011, is to tackle the

equivalent sector on the east coast of the

United States, before moving on to

introduce its products throughout the

American continent via various

distributors. Jiménez gives a four-point

explanation of why Quebec was chosen

as a launch pad for America: “We believe

that this is the richest region in the

whole area in gastronomic terms; also its

geographical location, close to the east

coast, is advantageous on various counts.

What’s more, the local government

provides significant support for newventures, and the fact that the Canadiandollar is cheaper than the US dollarmeans cheaper production there.”Gastronomically, the idea is to preservethe essentially Spanish nature of theirdishes for this new market while usinglocal raw materials and adjusting thepreparation method slightly. Thecompany considers it vitally important tobring in staff trained in their Dueñasfactory for the Quebec venture. Thebusiness model is, in fact, “mixed”: theCanadian factory’s head of production isa Spaniard, while the admin andmarketing departments are headed bylocally-recruited staff.

Date of foundation: 1992Activity: Design and production ofcooked meat dishes, ready-made chilledand frozen dishes, and production ofpoultry, game, beef, lamb and porkjoints.Workforce: 35 employeesTurnover in 2008: 6 million eurosExport quota: 12%www.cascajares.com

COVAP Ibérico productsfor New ZealandWhen New Zealand’s Health and Safetyauthorities gave the green light toimports of hams and charcuterieobtained from White and Ibérico pigs inJanuary 2007, COVAP (the LosPedroches Valley Livestock Farmers’Cooperative Company of Andalusia)immediately set about negotiating a placefor itself in this new territory, attractedby “a market with lots of potential thatno other manufacturer of Ibérico hamshad yet reached,” to quote the Co-op’s



SEGURA/©ICEX

ILLUSTRATIONAVI


On the MoveON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

Sergi Arola improves hisPortuguese…Catalan chef Sergi Arola has followed upthe 2008 launch of his restaurant Arolaat the Penha Longa Hotel & Golf Resortin Sintra (Portugal) with another foreignventure, this time in Sao Paulo, Brazil.His new, 120-seater restaurant, Arola 23,occupies the 23rd floor of the 5-star,grand luxe Hotel Tivoli, just a couple ofhundred feet away from the city’s iconicPaulista Avenue.Arola 23’s manager and chef de cuisineare Fabiana Benaderet and FabioAndrade, respectively; both are SergiArola team veterans, having worked withhim at Arola at Hotel Arts and at thePenha Longa Hotel & Golf Resort. Infact, the entire staff has been hand-picked by Sergi, who personally overseesthe cooking and is responsible for menucontent. The menu is currentlycomposed of two sections: Clásicos deArola, a collection of customer favoritesfrom his other restaurants, and DoMercado Municipal (From the CityMarket), a range of dishes based on top-quality produce from Sao Paulo’sMercado de Abastos and given theinimitable Arola touch. To sustain thisdegree of personal involvement, Arola(who acts as advisor to the Tivoli HotelGroup) has declared his intention oftraveling to Brazil once a month duringthe restaurant’s first year in business.As for future plans for further foreignventures, Sergi Arola intends to continuedeveloping the “Arola” concept: “In thispart of the world (the Cono Sur, i.e. thesouthernmost parts of South America),we’re negotiating possible openings inSantiago (Chile), Montevideo or Punta

del Este (Uruguay), and Buenos Aires(Argentina). Meanwhile, on the otherside of the Atlantic, we’re engaged intalks with a Lebanese group and anAmerican hotel company to opensomething in Central Europe and aMediterranean Basin country.”

Date of foundation (Arola 23): 2009Workforce: 35 employeesSergi Arola restaurants: In Madrid:Sergi Arola-Gastro, Vi Cool and Aro-LaBarra, plus exclusive catering for LaQuinta Marqués de la Concordia(Haciendas de España); in Barcelona:Arola at Hotel Arts and Vi Cool; in Roses(Girona): Vi Cool; in Castile-Leon(Valladolid and Salamanca): two DuriusRiver Cafés for Haciendas de España; inSintra (Portugal): Arola at Penha LongaHotel & Golf Resort; in Sao Paulo(Brazil): Arola 23.www.sergiarola.es

…while Martín Berasateguilearns ChineseThe official launch of Restaurant Martinlate last year was the end result of aproject set in train three years earlier by aregular customer at Restaurante MartínBerasategui (the three-Michelin-starrestaurant in Lasarte, in the BasqueCountry, where the Basque celebrity chefhas been cooking since 1993) by thename of Mr. Gao, who suggested

transporting the Berasategui experienceto Shanghai. The suggestion found favor,and Berasategui and Gao plus two otherpartners (one Spanish and one Chinese)have invested money and effort intranslating the idea into reality. AsBerasategui explains, their approach inthe Shanghai venture is: “to adapt ourdishes to local taste while retaining thecharacter of Spanish cuisine in a way thatreveals and explains our gastronomy to afamously receptive nation that is eagerfor new taste sensations.”Working on the basis of the Lasarterestaurant menu, many dishes have beensubtly nuanced to appeal to local taste.Among the results of this process areinventions such as oyster withwatercress, rocket and apple chlorophyll,and fresh peach with marine jelly andscallop tartare. Asked how he managedto find the ingredients needed for thisfirst overseas venture, Berasateguideclared: “The ever-increasing presenceof Spanish products, producers andsuppliers in China means that one caneasily obtain the ingredients intrinsic toour cuisine, suchas extra virginolive oil,

11 EN MARCHA IN_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/11/09 11:19 Página 106 (INGLES plancha)

Jerez o


sherry vinegar and La Vera pimentón (atype of paprika from Spain).” When itcomes to local products, he is full ofadmiration for the quality of the meat(such as Chinese sucking pig), fish andselect vegetables, and foodstuffs broughtin from elsewhere, such as Japaneseoysters and Australian lamb.Restaurant Martin’s setting is anattraction in itself: it occupies the threefloors and terrace of La Villa Rouge, acolonial-style building dating from 1921,now refurbished by Berasategui and hispartners. Diners are served in seven“salons”, four on the third floor and threeon the second, which can be reserved forexclusive use. The ground floor is givenover to a bar that stays open until 2 am,with live shows every night. The terrace,which is right in Xujiahui Park, is usedfor open-air lunches and dinners and isalso a good place to enjoy a late-nightcocktail from the indoor bar.

Date of foundation (RestaurantMartin): 2009Workforce: 40 employeesMartín Berasategui’s restaurants:Restaurante Martín Berasategui inLasarte; Restaurant Martin in Shanghai.He is also involved in an advisorycapacity with the Martín Berasateguirestaurant in the Abama Golf & SpaResort hotel complex in Tenerife, andwith the Loidi and Lasarte restaurants inHotel Condes in Barcelona.www.restaurantmartin.com.cn

Cascajares takes USmarket by storm“Our factory in Dueñas (a little town ofaround 3,000 inhabitants in Palenciaprovince, in the northern half of Spain)

supplies the eurozone countries and

Asia. Our next objective is to reach the

North American market through our

new factory in Quebec.” Chairman of

Cascajares, Alfonso Jiménez, is

explaining the rationale behind the latest

move in his company’s

internationalization strategy. His

company has won the Quebec

Businessmen Association’s prize for the

best business plan in the Montérégie

region, an annual award for the most

outstanding business project in that

province of Canada.

Cascajares’s plans are ambitious,

involving an investment of 1.5 million

euros in Canada, which it is hoped will

help it achieve its export target of 50% of

turnover. The new factory met its first

orders in 2009, its customer focus being

in the middle-to-top levels of the

hospitality industry in Quebec; the next

phase, starting in 2011, is to tackle the

equivalent sector on the east coast of the

United States, before moving on to

introduce its products throughout the

American continent via various

distributors. Jiménez gives a four-point

explanation of why Quebec was chosen

as a launch pad for America: “We believe

that this is the richest region in the

whole area in gastronomic terms; also its

geographical location, close to the east

coast, is advantageous on various counts.

What’s more, the local government

provides significant support for newventures, and the fact that the Canadiandollar is cheaper than the US dollarmeans cheaper production there.”Gastronomically, the idea is to preservethe essentially Spanish nature of theirdishes for this new market while usinglocal raw materials and adjusting thepreparation method slightly. Thecompany considers it vitally important tobring in staff trained in their Dueñasfactory for the Quebec venture. Thebusiness model is, in fact, “mixed”: theCanadian factory’s head of production isa Spaniard, while the admin andmarketing departments are headed bylocally-recruited staff.

Date of foundation: 1992Activity: Design and production ofcooked meat dishes, ready-made chilledand frozen dishes, and production ofpoultry, game, beef, lamb and porkjoints.Workforce: 35 employeesTurnover in 2008: 6 million eurosExport quota: 12%www.cascajares.com

COVAP Ibérico productsfor New ZealandWhen New Zealand’s Health and Safetyauthorities gave the green light toimports of hams and charcuterieobtained from White and Ibérico pigs inJanuary 2007, COVAP (the LosPedroches Valley Livestock Farmers’Cooperative Company of Andalusia)immediately set about negotiating a placefor itself in this new territory, attractedby “a market with lots of potential thatno other manufacturer of Ibérico hamshad yet reached,” to quote the Co-op’s



SEGURA/©ICEX

ILLUSTRATIONAVI


On the MoveON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

Sergi Arola improves hisPortuguese…Catalan chef Sergi Arola has followed upthe 2008 launch of his restaurant Arolaat the Penha Longa Hotel & Golf Resortin Sintra (Portugal) with another foreignventure, this time in Sao Paulo, Brazil.His new, 120-seater restaurant, Arola 23,occupies the 23rd floor of the 5-star,grand luxe Hotel Tivoli, just a couple ofhundred feet away from the city’s iconicPaulista Avenue.Arola 23’s manager and chef de cuisineare Fabiana Benaderet and FabioAndrade, respectively; both are SergiArola team veterans, having worked withhim at Arola at Hotel Arts and at thePenha Longa Hotel & Golf Resort. Infact, the entire staff has been hand-picked by Sergi, who personally overseesthe cooking and is responsible for menucontent. The menu is currentlycomposed of two sections: Clásicos deArola, a collection of customer favoritesfrom his other restaurants, and DoMercado Municipal (From the CityMarket), a range of dishes based on top-quality produce from Sao Paulo’sMercado de Abastos and given theinimitable Arola touch. To sustain thisdegree of personal involvement, Arola(who acts as advisor to the Tivoli HotelGroup) has declared his intention oftraveling to Brazil once a month duringthe restaurant’s first year in business.As for future plans for further foreignventures, Sergi Arola intends to continuedeveloping the “Arola” concept: “In thispart of the world (the Cono Sur, i.e. thesouthernmost parts of South America),we’re negotiating possible openings inSantiago (Chile), Montevideo or Punta

del Este (Uruguay), and Buenos Aires(Argentina). Meanwhile, on the otherside of the Atlantic, we’re engaged intalks with a Lebanese group and anAmerican hotel company to opensomething in Central Europe and aMediterranean Basin country.”

Date of foundation (Arola 23): 2009Workforce: 35 employeesSergi Arola restaurants: In Madrid:Sergi Arola-Gastro, Vi Cool and Aro-LaBarra, plus exclusive catering for LaQuinta Marqués de la Concordia(Haciendas de España); in Barcelona:Arola at Hotel Arts and Vi Cool; in Roses(Girona): Vi Cool; in Castile-Leon(Valladolid and Salamanca): two DuriusRiver Cafés for Haciendas de España; inSintra (Portugal): Arola at Penha LongaHotel & Golf Resort; in Sao Paulo(Brazil): Arola 23.www.sergiarola.es

…while Martín Berasateguilearns ChineseThe official launch of Restaurant Martinlate last year was the end result of aproject set in train three years earlier by aregular customer at Restaurante MartínBerasategui (the three-Michelin-starrestaurant in Lasarte, in the BasqueCountry, where the Basque celebrity chefhas been cooking since 1993) by thename of Mr. Gao, who suggested

transporting the Berasategui experienceto Shanghai. The suggestion found favor,and Berasategui and Gao plus two otherpartners (one Spanish and one Chinese)have invested money and effort intranslating the idea into reality. AsBerasategui explains, their approach inthe Shanghai venture is: “to adapt ourdishes to local taste while retaining thecharacter of Spanish cuisine in a way thatreveals and explains our gastronomy to afamously receptive nation that is eagerfor new taste sensations.”Working on the basis of the Lasarterestaurant menu, many dishes have beensubtly nuanced to appeal to local taste.Among the results of this process areinventions such as oyster withwatercress, rocket and apple chlorophyll,and fresh peach with marine jelly andscallop tartare. Asked how he managedto find the ingredients needed for thisfirst overseas venture, Berasateguideclared: “The ever-increasing presenceof Spanish products, producers andsuppliers in China means that one caneasily obtain the ingredients intrinsic toour cuisine, suchas extra virginolive oil,

11 EN MARCHA IN_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/11/09 11:19 Página 106 (INGLES plancha)



ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

More newswww.spaingourmetour.com

international affairs director, AbelRodríguez. Those early approaches paidoff: the Co-op has signed a contract withimport company Baroni Foods and sentits first consignment (consisting of 200Ibérico cured hams worth 60,000 euros)to New Zealand last summer.Rodríguez explains that the company’sobjective in New Zealand is “toconcentrate initially on top-flightrestaurants and delicatessen shops andlater, when COVAP Ibérico ham has hadtime to make a name for itself in themarketplace, to place it in supermarketsthat have a gourmet section.” Spanishrestaurateur Pedro Carazo, who has livedin New Zealand for the last 30 years, iscooperating in this scheme. Rodríguezdescribes him as “the best ambassador forSpanish products you could wish for.” Hisrestaurant in Christchurch, Pedro’s,provided COVAP with a highly-effectiveshowcase during its early days in NewZealand, hosting all the presentations andtastings of its Ibérico products.New Zealand brings the total of countriesin which COVAP now has a presence upto 25, and the list is expected growfurther with the addition of Brazil,

Australia, India, China and the US, thetarget clientele being the hospitalityindustry and gourmet shops in all cases.After over 5 years’ work, the Co-opfinally succeeded in obtaining thecertification required to export itsproducts into the United States late in2009. Meanwhile, preparations forseeking a niche in the Chinese marketare on hold until China’s health andsafety authorities make a return visit toinspect the premises (as they did in2008) and issue the necessary permit sothat COVAP can get on with the businessof exporting to this vast Asian market assoon as possible.

Date of foundation: 1959Activity: Agri-livestock and foodstuffsWorkforce: 700 employeesTurnover for 2008: 307 million eurosExport quota: 9%www.covap.es

Bodegas Baigorri brings anew Rioja to CaliforniaNegotiations initiated at Vinexpo 2008,and sustained for several months,resulted last year in an agreementbetween Bodegas Baigorri andCalifornia’s DVF Wines, giving DVFexclusive distribution rights over theRiojan winery’s wines throughout theUnited States. The bodega’s director,Simón Arina, is patently pleased withthis new commercial alliance, payingtribute to the admirably businesslikeapproach of the new partner company,with whose help he hopes to achieve“...consistent annual growth of around20% as our winery becomes known inthe various west coast states”.To stimulate initial interest among USconsumers, Arina is highlighting the factthat this is “a modern wine, intense and

full-bodied, which comes with thequality guarantee of DOCa Rioja. We areconfident that the brand image thisrepresents gives us an edge while weestablish ourselves in the localmarketplace.” It was with all this in mindthat Baigorri began the process of goinginternational in 2008; markets such asHolland and Switzerland are alreadyshowing highly promising results, andthe company confidently expects to raiseits export quota to around 35% in 2010.The winery premises constitute animportant aspect of Baigorri’s appeal,albeit one appreciable only to those in aposition to visit the Spanishheadquarters. Situated in Samaniego, inRioja Alavesa (northern Spain), thebuilding is fascinating from bothoenological and architectural points ofview: it is all below ground level exceptfor the top floor, which is a zinc-roofedglass cube with panoramic views overthe surrounding vineyards. The lowerfloors house the vinification and agingbays with capacity for 665,000 bottlesand are eminently functional in design.Arina explains one intriguing aspect ofthis: “The winery capitalizes on the forceof gravity at every stage of theproduction process; all the grapes areselected using vibrating tables, and alleight levels are designed so that they canbe visited without impinging onproduction.”

Date of foundation: 2002Activity: Vinifying, aging and bottlingfine winesWorkforce: 17 employeesTurnover in 2008: 2.5 million eurosExport quota: 25%www.bodegasbaigorri.com

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Conservas

In today's crowded marketplace, it sometimes paysto do things differently. Conservas Rosara is afamily business specializing in the traditionalproducts of its native Navarre. But, as PaulRichardson discovers, the family's interest invariety, high quality, and the export market istaking this small company in some radical newdirections.

RosaraTextPaul Richardson/©ICEX

PhotosConservas Rosara

Natural Selection




CONSERVAS ROSARA

BUSINESSWATCH





CONSERVAS ROSARA

BUSINESSWATCH








CONSERVAS ROSARA

BUSINESSWATCH





CONSERVAS ROSARA

BUSINESSWATCH








unusual mixture at a small ruralcompany, but the formula seems to getresults. “We’re a little bit atypical,” saysSaúl with a shrug and a smile.

Paul Richardson lives on a farm innorthern Extremadura. A freelance traveland food writer, he is the author of A LateDinner: Discovering the Food of Spain(Bloomsbury, UK and Scribner, USA).

CONSERVAS ROSARA

BUSINESSWATCH


CONSERVAS ROSARA

BUSINESSWATCH

wryly—it certainly makes things alittle more complicated, he admits.The good part is never having towaste time: while other canningcompanies might be busy for a fewmonths of the year (the Ribera’straditional peak periods areSeptember/October and April/May),the factory at Rosara and its 35employees are never idle for long.Among their newest novelties areNavarre artichoke hearts and driedtomato, both presented in olive oil,and the cherry pepper stuffed withgoats’ cheese, inspired by the Italianpeperoncino, but with a crunch offreshness in the pepper that adds tothe original version, making for adelicious aperitif.Such creativity is impressive, but Saúlis ready to concede that certainingredients don’t translate well intopreserves: anything with potatoes, forinstance, is always going to be tricky,ruling out such dishes as marmitako(albacore tuna and potato stew) andporrusalda (soup made with leek,potato and salt cod). Artichokes withclams was one invention that neverquite took off. It’s also important to besensitive, adds Saúl, to the market’schanging tastes. There have beenproducts launched before their time,like the piquillo peppers stuffed withhueva de erizo (sea urchin roe). “Whenwe brought it out, in 1990, peopleseemed unsure of what exactly seaurchin roe was. Soon afterwards westopped manufacturing the product,but now we’ve brought it out again.Although it still has limited appeal, at

least nowadays people have a clearer

idea of what it’s about.”

Think locally,act globallyIn the early days, the company’s

marketing efforts were entirely

directed towards the local (i.e.

Spanish) market. As time has gone by,

and under the influence of the younger

generation, the export market has

gained in importance, and it now

represents around 10% of sales. (The

brand is present in France; Austria; the

US, including Puerto Rico; Mexico;

Japan; and Belgium.) It was never

going to be a breeze for products like

these, so typically and robustly

Spanish, to gain a foothold in foreign

markets where they were mostly

unfamiliar. Like many other

manufacturers of fine preserves, Rosara

has encountered the prejudice against

canned products in Anglo-Saxon

markets, where tinned or canned food

has traditionally suffered from a poor

reputation. Lack of familiarity with the

complex world of Spanish gastronomy

is also, still, a major issue when it

comes to selling abroad. As Saúl neatlyputs it: “They know something aboutSpanish food, but not a great deal. Ifyou ask a person who has been inSpain, they might say ham, tortilla,wine, and tapas. But piquillo pepperand asparagus, that might be a littlemore difficult.”Foreign markets in general tend to bemore au fait with Italian products thanSpanish, which is not surprising giventhe Italians’ 40-year advantage. In anycase, this is changing fast, as theexcellence of Spanish ham, cheese,wine, and so on, continues to makewaves across the globe. The Italianpreserving tradition has served as aninspiration for a number of Rosara’snewer lines. Saúl admires the way theItalians have positioned themselvesfavorably in the global foodmarketplace. When it comes to sellingtheir canned products, they are stillunrivalled. But the Spanish, hebelieves, are coming up fast. “If theItalian product is beautifully presentedand commercially perfect, the productitself isn’t everything it could be. Theytend to revolve around the samethings: the tapenades, the products inoil, the peperoncinos. They’re a littlebit stuck in the past. I’m not surewhether it’s the influence of FerranAdrià and the whole new Spanishcuisine movement, but here we’re a lotmore on the ball.”So saying, Saúl gets up from the tableand disappears into the office,returning with the company’s not-so-secret weapon, an original idea withwhich they hope to conquer foreign

markets once and for all. TheConservas Rosara Tapas Kit, designedwith the help of ICE Comunicaciónconsultancy group in Logroño, wasdeveloped with a younger, moresophisticated customer in mind. Thebox, which has a bright, modern look,contains ingredients for a small butexquisite tapas meal, including twojars of preserves (in variouspermutations of piquillo peppermousse, roasted mixed vegetables,legume and vegetable salad with tuna,etc.), plus a bagful of black and whitespoons for presentation and a recipeleaflet with serving suggestions inSpanish, French and English. (“TheRosara Tapas Kit is specially designedfor the consumer to express his owncreativity.”) The Tapas Kit waslaunched two years ago and isavailable in delicatessen-style foodshops in France and Germany, thoughit has not yet reached the shores of thealways-difficult UK. The kit forms partof Rosara’s marketing strategy for theexport market, if those terms don’tsound too grand for a small family-runcompany with limited resources. “It’snot something you can do in a day, norin two. One has to find the rightproducts, and then the right agents.But we think this is the path to follow:products specifically designed forexport. And it’s an ongoing process,”says Saúl.Gastronomic values, emphasis onquality. Diversity as a pillar of thebusiness. One foot in the Navarresetradition, another in the world of post-modern gastronomy. It all makes for an

C O N S E R V A SR O S A R A

Year of foundation: 1986

Workforce: 35 employees

Turnover for 2008: 3.5 million euros

Export quota: 10%

Main export markets: Austria,France, Mexico, Netherlands, UnitedStates

www.rosara.com




unusual mixture at a small ruralcompany, but the formula seems to getresults. “We’re a little bit atypical,” saysSaúl with a shrug and a smile.

Paul Richardson lives on a farm innorthern Extremadura. A freelance traveland food writer, he is the author of A LateDinner: Discovering the Food of Spain(Bloomsbury, UK and Scribner, USA).

CONSERVAS ROSARA

BUSINESSWATCH


CONSERVAS ROSARA

BUSINESSWATCH

wryly—it certainly makes things alittle more complicated, he admits.The good part is never having towaste time: while other canningcompanies might be busy for a fewmonths of the year (the Ribera’straditional peak periods areSeptember/October and April/May),the factory at Rosara and its 35employees are never idle for long.Among their newest novelties areNavarre artichoke hearts and driedtomato, both presented in olive oil,and the cherry pepper stuffed withgoats’ cheese, inspired by the Italianpeperoncino, but with a crunch offreshness in the pepper that adds tothe original version, making for adelicious aperitif.Such creativity is impressive, but Saúlis ready to concede that certainingredients don’t translate well intopreserves: anything with potatoes, forinstance, is always going to be tricky,ruling out such dishes as marmitako(albacore tuna and potato stew) andporrusalda (soup made with leek,potato and salt cod). Artichokes withclams was one invention that neverquite took off. It’s also important to besensitive, adds Saúl, to the market’schanging tastes. There have beenproducts launched before their time,like the piquillo peppers stuffed withhueva de erizo (sea urchin roe). “Whenwe brought it out, in 1990, peopleseemed unsure of what exactly seaurchin roe was. Soon afterwards westopped manufacturing the product,but now we’ve brought it out again.Although it still has limited appeal, at

least nowadays people have a clearer

idea of what it’s about.”

Think locally,act globallyIn the early days, the company’s

marketing efforts were entirely

directed towards the local (i.e.

Spanish) market. As time has gone by,

and under the influence of the younger

generation, the export market has

gained in importance, and it now

represents around 10% of sales. (The

brand is present in France; Austria; the

US, including Puerto Rico; Mexico;

Japan; and Belgium.) It was never

going to be a breeze for products like

these, so typically and robustly

Spanish, to gain a foothold in foreign

markets where they were mostly

unfamiliar. Like many other

manufacturers of fine preserves, Rosara

has encountered the prejudice against

canned products in Anglo-Saxon

markets, where tinned or canned food

has traditionally suffered from a poor

reputation. Lack of familiarity with the

complex world of Spanish gastronomy

is also, still, a major issue when it

comes to selling abroad. As Saúl neatlyputs it: “They know something aboutSpanish food, but not a great deal. Ifyou ask a person who has been inSpain, they might say ham, tortilla,wine, and tapas. But piquillo pepperand asparagus, that might be a littlemore difficult.”Foreign markets in general tend to bemore au fait with Italian products thanSpanish, which is not surprising giventhe Italians’ 40-year advantage. In anycase, this is changing fast, as theexcellence of Spanish ham, cheese,wine, and so on, continues to makewaves across the globe. The Italianpreserving tradition has served as aninspiration for a number of Rosara’snewer lines. Saúl admires the way theItalians have positioned themselvesfavorably in the global foodmarketplace. When it comes to sellingtheir canned products, they are stillunrivalled. But the Spanish, hebelieves, are coming up fast. “If theItalian product is beautifully presentedand commercially perfect, the productitself isn’t everything it could be. Theytend to revolve around the samethings: the tapenades, the products inoil, the peperoncinos. They’re a littlebit stuck in the past. I’m not surewhether it’s the influence of FerranAdrià and the whole new Spanishcuisine movement, but here we’re a lotmore on the ball.”So saying, Saúl gets up from the tableand disappears into the office,returning with the company’s not-so-secret weapon, an original idea withwhich they hope to conquer foreign

markets once and for all. TheConservas Rosara Tapas Kit, designedwith the help of ICE Comunicaciónconsultancy group in Logroño, wasdeveloped with a younger, moresophisticated customer in mind. Thebox, which has a bright, modern look,contains ingredients for a small butexquisite tapas meal, including twojars of preserves (in variouspermutations of piquillo peppermousse, roasted mixed vegetables,legume and vegetable salad with tuna,etc.), plus a bagful of black and whitespoons for presentation and a recipeleaflet with serving suggestions inSpanish, French and English. (“TheRosara Tapas Kit is specially designedfor the consumer to express his owncreativity.”) The Tapas Kit waslaunched two years ago and isavailable in delicatessen-style foodshops in France and Germany, thoughit has not yet reached the shores of thealways-difficult UK. The kit forms partof Rosara’s marketing strategy for theexport market, if those terms don’tsound too grand for a small family-runcompany with limited resources. “It’snot something you can do in a day, norin two. One has to find the rightproducts, and then the right agents.But we think this is the path to follow:products specifically designed forexport. And it’s an ongoing process,”says Saúl.Gastronomic values, emphasis onquality. Diversity as a pillar of thebusiness. One foot in the Navarresetradition, another in the world of post-modern gastronomy. It all makes for an

C O N S E R V A SR O S A R A

Year of foundation: 1986

Workforce: 35 employees

Turnover for 2008: 3.5 million euros

Export quota: 10%

Main export markets: Austria,France, Mexico, Netherlands, UnitedStates

www.rosara.com


13 COLOPHON_AF.qxd 18/11/09 12:21 Página 114


certainly tapas with a twist.Ibérica’s wine list covers some of thelesser known DOs and styles whichare quickly gaining recognition, suchas the minerally whites of DOValdeorras, a great match for thepitxin, or a fresh red from DOMéntrida, as well as ever-popularDOCa Rioja wines. There is also aselection of sherries and a few morewould be welcome.Ibérica opened in October 2008 asthe world economy was brought toits knees. Encouragingly, thisoriginal Spanish project is a successstory, having gained considerablerespect for its cuisine and relaxedatmosphere from both Spanishnationals and Londoners alike.When the time is right and theformula has been perfected, Ibérica’spartners plan to open similarventures in other European cities.Watch this space…

Ibérica Food & Culture195 Great Portland Street, LondonW1W 5PSwww.ibericalondon.co.uk

I’ve been enjoying a number of newhigher quality Spanish restaurantsin London over the last year or so.They include Ibérica Food &Culture, which, as its name implies,is more than just a restaurant.Located on the fringes of London’sbustling West End on GreatPortland Street, this two-tieredrestaurant, delicatessen and culturalcenter is part of a recently-formedSpanish triangle in this part oftown—the Meliá White HouseHotel and Banco Santander’s UKhead office are both within walkingdistance. So there’s every chancethat you’ll hear Spanishconversations from the peoplealongside you at the bar or at thenext table, indeed, around a third ofIbérica’s customers are Spanish, allsorts of Spanish people...The team behind this ventureadopted a 1930s building and,thanks to its high ceilings and hugeglass windows, they have created abright, contemporary restaurant. Itcaters for casual, informal dining onthe ground floor, while the Caleya

Ibérica restaurant located above ismore intimate and sophisticated.The central feature on the groundfloor is the 15-m (49-ft) “gastrobar”.This is the best bit for me and anideal place to wind down at the endof the day with colleagues or friends.You can perch on a bar stool andselect from a choice of cold and hotdishes—generous pinchos or tapasthat ideally should be shared. I’musually tempted by the line-up of fineIbérico ham—one of the first thingsthat you see on arrival—and I mustrecommend the Ibérica croquettesand black rice with seafood.However, the enthusiasm for morecontemporary dishes from all oftheir customers has encouragedchefs Santiago Guerrero and NachoManzano to show their gastronomicflare. Some of the more intriguingdishes that caught my eye on mylast visit were the pitxin (pan-friedmonkfish parcels) and chorizolollipops with pear alioli (garlicmayonnaise) as they whizzed paston waiters’ trays. They were as goodas they looked, and these are

HAVE A SPANISH BREAK!

COLOPHON

New year, new magazine! Spain Gourmetour receivescountless press releases about Spanish-themed venues thatare popping up all the world over. In this section we areteaming up with collaborators spread out over every cornerof the globe to give readers a glimpse of what’s so specialabout enjoying Spain thousands of miles from the IberianPeninsula. In this edition, Patricia Langton, wine journalistand contributor to leading publications such as Decanterand The Drinks Business, among others, takes us to IbéricaFood & Culture in her home city of London.

Patricia Langton

LONDONfrom

TextPatricia Langton/©ICEX

PhotosIbérica Food & CulturePatricia Langton/©ICEX

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certainly tapas with a twist.Ibérica’s wine list covers some of thelesser known DOs and styles whichare quickly gaining recognition, suchas the minerally whites of DOValdeorras, a great match for thepitxin, or a fresh red from DOMéntrida, as well as ever-popularDOCa Rioja wines. There is also aselection of sherries and a few morewould be welcome.Ibérica opened in October 2008 asthe world economy was brought toits knees. Encouragingly, thisoriginal Spanish project is a successstory, having gained considerablerespect for its cuisine and relaxedatmosphere from both Spanishnationals and Londoners alike.When the time is right and theformula has been perfected, Ibérica’spartners plan to open similarventures in other European cities.Watch this space…

Ibérica Food & Culture195 Great Portland Street, LondonW1W 5PSwww.ibericalondon.co.uk

I’ve been enjoying a number of newhigher quality Spanish restaurantsin London over the last year or so.They include Ibérica Food &Culture, which, as its name implies,is more than just a restaurant.Located on the fringes of London’sbustling West End on GreatPortland Street, this two-tieredrestaurant, delicatessen and culturalcenter is part of a recently-formedSpanish triangle in this part oftown—the Meliá White HouseHotel and Banco Santander’s UKhead office are both within walkingdistance. So there’s every chancethat you’ll hear Spanishconversations from the peoplealongside you at the bar or at thenext table, indeed, around a third ofIbérica’s customers are Spanish, allsorts of Spanish people...The team behind this ventureadopted a 1930s building and,thanks to its high ceilings and hugeglass windows, they have created abright, contemporary restaurant. Itcaters for casual, informal dining onthe ground floor, while the Caleya

Ibérica restaurant located above ismore intimate and sophisticated.The central feature on the groundfloor is the 15-m (49-ft) “gastrobar”.This is the best bit for me and anideal place to wind down at the endof the day with colleagues or friends.You can perch on a bar stool andselect from a choice of cold and hotdishes—generous pinchos or tapasthat ideally should be shared. I’musually tempted by the line-up of fineIbérico ham—one of the first thingsthat you see on arrival—and I mustrecommend the Ibérica croquettesand black rice with seafood.However, the enthusiasm for morecontemporary dishes from all oftheir customers has encouragedchefs Santiago Guerrero and NachoManzano to show their gastronomicflare. Some of the more intriguingdishes that caught my eye on mylast visit were the pitxin (pan-friedmonkfish parcels) and chorizolollipops with pear alioli (garlicmayonnaise) as they whizzed paston waiters’ trays. They were as goodas they looked, and these are

HAVE A SPANISH BREAK!

COLOPHON

New year, new magazine! Spain Gourmetour receivescountless press releases about Spanish-themed venues thatare popping up all the world over. In this section we areteaming up with collaborators spread out over every cornerof the globe to give readers a glimpse of what’s so specialabout enjoying Spain thousands of miles from the IberianPeninsula. In this edition, Patricia Langton, wine journalistand contributor to leading publications such as Decanterand The Drinks Business, among others, takes us to IbéricaFood & Culture in her home city of London.

Patricia Langton

LONDONfrom

TextPatricia Langton/©ICEX

PhotosIbérica Food & CulturePatricia Langton/©ICEX

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Cocktails & Drinks Bookby Javier de las Muelas.Spanish. One of the world’sleading bartenders, andowner of DryMartini inBarcelona (among theworld’s best 10 bars),presents a top book on thetopic. Here the king ofcocktails serves up hisnever-ending knowledge onthe history of and storiesabout bartending andmixed drinks; tips, tricksand secrets to becoming anoutstanding bartender; andanecdotes from his manyyears behind the bar. Healso includes recipes so thatyou can make the perfectnegroni/gimlet/bellini/Singaporesling/wasabi frappé/etc. inyour own home, completewith photos and details onglass types and musicalrecommendations. You’resure to down a wealth ofinformation, not to mentionan extraordinary beverage.(Editorial Planeta, S.A.,www.planeta.es)

Ruta Gastronómica porCantabria, RutaGastronómica porAndalucía, RutaGastronómica por Galicia(Gastronomic JourneyThrough Cantabria/Andalusia/Galicia) by InésButron. Spanish. Butron isthe hostess, not to mention arenowned gastronomicjournalist, who takes readerson a journey through thetraditional culture and foodof each of Spain’s regions.These are just three books inan extensive series whichcovers each areas’ diverseregional gastronomy, uniquecustoms, culture, politicalbeliefs, landscapes, history,triumphs and defeats, and,of course, recipes(Santander-style clams orGalician-style octopusanyone? Or maybe someAndalusian gazpacho?).Learn all you need to knowabout DOs, popularfestivals, gastronomic eventsand typical products. There’snothing like an in-depthlook at Spain’s many edibletreasures. (Salsa books, GrupEditorial 62, S.L.U.,[email protected],www.grup62.com)

La Manzanilla. El vino deSanlúcar (Manzanilla, Winefrom Sanlúcar) byChristopher Fielden andJavier Hidalgo. Spanish.Light, dry, slightly acidic.That’s Manzanilla, the starproduct of Sanlúcar, inAndalusia. The last twodecades have seen this winemake a place for itself onthe national scene andconquer markets abroad.This book gives an insidelook at its origins andhistory, gastronomicqualities and currentsituation. Chapters providefascinating and detaileddata on Manzanilla andSherry, wine production,Sanlúcar wines and thevillage’s wine business,winery construction,specific producers,enotourism, Sanlúcarvillage and the future ofManzanilla. By the end ofthe book you’ll be a trueexpert on the subject.¡Salud! (Editorial Almuzara,www.editorialalmuzara.com,[email protected],[email protected])

One Pot Spanish. Morethan 80 Easy AuthenticRecipes by Penelope Casas.English. Its proximity to thesea, Mediterranean rootsand rich agriculture makeSpain a culinary paradise,and in this book Casasdelivers some of its bestrecipes. Following anationwide gastronomicjourney, the authordeliciously re-creates thedishes from her trip,bringing the taste of hertravels to your table.Spanish cooking is acelebration of flavors andunderlines the use of freshfoods and diverseingredients; both tenets arevisible in her selection ofsoups, salads, rices andpasta, fish, legumes, meatdishes and desserts. Try thewhite asparagus salad withpiquillo peppers, egg andanchovy; chorizo, tomatoand pasta stew; or theAsturian-style rice pudding.You just can’t go wrong.(Sellers Publishing, Inc.,www.sellerpublishing.com,[email protected])

The Barcelona Cookbookby Sasa Mahr-Batuz, AndyPforzheimer and MaryGoodbody. English. Spanishcuisine lovers in the US arein luck: all they have to dois head to the nearestBarcelona Wine Bar andRestaurant and theircravings will be satisfied.This chain has been puttingsmiles on customers’ facessince 1996 and today it isthe biggest Spanishrestaurant group in theStates. Authentic flavors arerecreated using spices, oliveoil, vinegar, cured meat andolives (among other items)imported from Spain,combined with fresh foodsfrom local markets. Theresult: ecstasy. This bookoffers info on their wineand mixed drinks menu,ideas for tapas parties,techniques, ingredients andentertaining stories aboutthe restaurant and itsowners. One of the reviewssums it up best: “The bookis practically edible.”(Andrews McMeel Publishing,LLC,www.andrewsmcmeel.com)

Chupa Chups. 1958-2008.English. This great textcelebrates the 50th

anniversary of what isarguably the world’ssweetest treat: ChupaChups. Presented in a goldbox, the book combines funinformation, anecdotes,photos and drawings thattell the tale of this lollipop,which has been bringinghappiness to people of allages for the last fivedecades. Read about theanatomy of the lollipop;measures, weight andsucking time; wrappers;flavors and assortment;production; the anatomy ofthe consumer; sucking andsmoking; brand milestones;going global; the collectorseries; the people behindthe brand, and more. Payhomage to “high qualityconfectionary” and be a partof a really fun book for areally fun product. (ChupaChups, S.A.U.,[email protected],www.chupachups.com; ACVEdiciones,[email protected],www.acvglobal.com)

Tapas. 80 Classic andContemporary Recipes byJoanna Farrow. English.Does anyone else’s mouthwater just at the mention oftapas? This book covers 80of the best tapas recipes,where everything from lightfare, seafood and poultry toveggie and meat dishes playstarring roles. Farrowincludes info on basictechniques, from peelingprawns to skinningtomatoes; on typicalingredients such asalmonds, bread, cured meatand saffron; and even tipson how to serve them asappetizers or as an entiremeal. Try classics likemarinated anchovies orpatatas bravas, orcontemporary options suchas goats’ cheese in tarragondressing or griddled quailwith almond sauce. Newand old school tapas inperfect harmony. (OctopusPublishing Group Ltd.,www.octopus.co.uk)

LASTINGIMPRESSIONS

TextSamaraKamenecka/©ICEX

14 LIBROS IN_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/11/09 20:42 Página 116 (INGLES plancha)

The following list includes aselection of exporters. It isnot intended as acomprehensive guide and forreasons of space, we cannotlist all the companies devotedto export of the featuredproducts. The informationincluded is supplied by theindividual sources.

FoodProductsPGI Miel deGaliciaErica Mel, S.C.G.Tel./Fax: (+34) 981 508 [email protected]@corevia.com

Mieles Anta, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 981 289 266Tel./Fax: (+34) 981 297 [email protected]

Mieles Outeda, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 986 680 330Tel./Fax: (+34) 986 841 [email protected]

Consejo Regulador IGPMiel de GaliciaTel./Fax: (+34) 981 511 [email protected]

Source: Consejo ReguladorIGP Miel de Galicia

PDO Miel deGranadaAl Andalus DelicatessenSCATel.: (+34) 958 772 111Fax: (+34) 958 772 [email protected]

Productos Apícolas JesúsDonoso(El Colmenar deValderomero)Tel./Fax: (+34) 949 390 [email protected]

Sylvia Gaupp Berghausen(Miel de Torronteras)Tel.: (+34) 949 827 091Fax: (+34) 949 827 [email protected]

Consejo Regulador DOPMiel de La AlcarriaTel./Fax: (+34) 949 252 [email protected]

Source: Consejo ReguladorDOP Miel de la Alcarria

MangoTROPSTel.: (+34) 952 500 700Fax: (+34) 952 500 [email protected]

Source: ICEX

Feysol Nature, S.L.(Biolanjar)Tel./Fax: (+34) 958 155 [email protected]

José Francisco Rodríguez(Apicultura Joises)Tel./Fax: (+34) 958 785 [email protected]

Consejo Regulador DOPMiel de GranadaTel./Fax: (+34) 958 771 [email protected]

Source: Consejo ReguladorDOP Miel de Granada

PDO Miel de LaAlcarriaGuadanatur, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 949 218 243Fax: (+34) 949 850 [email protected]

Honeycombe, S.L.(Miel Cruz Real)Tel.: (+34) 667 755 310Fax.: (+34) 949 376 [email protected]

Marciana Corredor Herrera(Guadalhor)Tel.: (+34) 949 254 [email protected]

EXPORTERS

16 EXPORTADORES IN_MAQUETA EXPORTERS.qxd 26/11/09 11:42 Página 128

PREMIUM QUALITY SPANISH CHEESE-THE GRANDEE OF SPAIN-

Award winning 12 month maturedManchego D.O. from La Mancha October 2008

Awarded first prize Manchego cheese at the annualManchego cheesemakers guild contest.

TARTESANA, S.L“Tarquessia de La Mancha”

Ctra. de Toledo, s/n13420 Malagón (C.Real) Spain

Tel: +(34) 926 266 410Fax: +(34) 926 266 413

[email protected]

I. QUESERA CUQUERELLA, S.L. - QUESOS ROCINANTEMalagón (C. Real) - Spain - Tel.: +34 926 266 410 - Fax: +34 926 266 413

[email protected] - www.rocinante.es

“The Original Spanish Cheesecake”

INGLÉS_Maquetación 1 26/11/09 16:40 Página 1

PPROTOS_ingles.indd 1 29/7/09 11:08:01



Cocktails & Drinks Bookby Javier de las Muelas.Spanish. One of the world’sleading bartenders, andowner of DryMartini inBarcelona (among theworld’s best 10 bars),presents a top book on thetopic. Here the king ofcocktails serves up hisnever-ending knowledge onthe history of and storiesabout bartending andmixed drinks; tips, tricksand secrets to becoming anoutstanding bartender; andanecdotes from his manyyears behind the bar. Healso includes recipes so thatyou can make the perfectnegroni/gimlet/bellini/Singaporesling/wasabi frappé/etc. inyour own home, completewith photos and details onglass types and musicalrecommendations. You’resure to down a wealth ofinformation, not to mentionan extraordinary beverage.(Editorial Planeta, S.A.,www.planeta.es)

Ruta Gastronómica porCantabria, RutaGastronómica porAndalucía, RutaGastronómica por Galicia(Gastronomic JourneyThrough Cantabria/Andalusia/Galicia) by InésButron. Spanish. Butron isthe hostess, not to mention arenowned gastronomicjournalist, who takes readerson a journey through thetraditional culture and foodof each of Spain’s regions.These are just three books inan extensive series whichcovers each areas’ diverseregional gastronomy, uniquecustoms, culture, politicalbeliefs, landscapes, history,triumphs and defeats, and,of course, recipes(Santander-style clams orGalician-style octopusanyone? Or maybe someAndalusian gazpacho?).Learn all you need to knowabout DOs, popularfestivals, gastronomic eventsand typical products. There’snothing like an in-depthlook at Spain’s many edibletreasures. (Salsa books, GrupEditorial 62, S.L.U.,[email protected],www.grup62.com)

La Manzanilla. El vino deSanlúcar (Manzanilla, Winefrom Sanlúcar) byChristopher Fielden andJavier Hidalgo. Spanish.Light, dry, slightly acidic.That’s Manzanilla, the starproduct of Sanlúcar, inAndalusia. The last twodecades have seen this winemake a place for itself onthe national scene andconquer markets abroad.This book gives an insidelook at its origins andhistory, gastronomicqualities and currentsituation. Chapters providefascinating and detaileddata on Manzanilla andSherry, wine production,Sanlúcar wines and thevillage’s wine business,winery construction,specific producers,enotourism, Sanlúcarvillage and the future ofManzanilla. By the end ofthe book you’ll be a trueexpert on the subject.¡Salud! (Editorial Almuzara,www.editorialalmuzara.com,[email protected],[email protected])

One Pot Spanish. Morethan 80 Easy AuthenticRecipes by Penelope Casas.English. Its proximity to thesea, Mediterranean rootsand rich agriculture makeSpain a culinary paradise,and in this book Casasdelivers some of its bestrecipes. Following anationwide gastronomicjourney, the authordeliciously re-creates thedishes from her trip,bringing the taste of hertravels to your table.Spanish cooking is acelebration of flavors andunderlines the use of freshfoods and diverseingredients; both tenets arevisible in her selection ofsoups, salads, rices andpasta, fish, legumes, meatdishes and desserts. Try thewhite asparagus salad withpiquillo peppers, egg andanchovy; chorizo, tomatoand pasta stew; or theAsturian-style rice pudding.You just can’t go wrong.(Sellers Publishing, Inc.,www.sellerpublishing.com,[email protected])

The Barcelona Cookbookby Sasa Mahr-Batuz, AndyPforzheimer and MaryGoodbody. English. Spanishcuisine lovers in the US arein luck: all they have to dois head to the nearestBarcelona Wine Bar andRestaurant and theircravings will be satisfied.This chain has been puttingsmiles on customers’ facessince 1996 and today it isthe biggest Spanishrestaurant group in theStates. Authentic flavors arerecreated using spices, oliveoil, vinegar, cured meat andolives (among other items)imported from Spain,combined with fresh foodsfrom local markets. Theresult: ecstasy. This bookoffers info on their wineand mixed drinks menu,ideas for tapas parties,techniques, ingredients andentertaining stories aboutthe restaurant and itsowners. One of the reviewssums it up best: “The bookis practically edible.”(Andrews McMeel Publishing,LLC,www.andrewsmcmeel.com)

Chupa Chups. 1958-2008.English. This great textcelebrates the 50th

anniversary of what isarguably the world’ssweetest treat: ChupaChups. Presented in a goldbox, the book combines funinformation, anecdotes,photos and drawings thattell the tale of this lollipop,which has been bringinghappiness to people of allages for the last fivedecades. Read about theanatomy of the lollipop;measures, weight andsucking time; wrappers;flavors and assortment;production; the anatomy ofthe consumer; sucking andsmoking; brand milestones;going global; the collectorseries; the people behindthe brand, and more. Payhomage to “high qualityconfectionary” and be a partof a really fun book for areally fun product. (ChupaChups, S.A.U.,[email protected],www.chupachups.com; ACVEdiciones,[email protected],www.acvglobal.com)

Tapas. 80 Classic andContemporary Recipes byJoanna Farrow. English.Does anyone else’s mouthwater just at the mention oftapas? This book covers 80of the best tapas recipes,where everything from lightfare, seafood and poultry toveggie and meat dishes playstarring roles. Farrowincludes info on basictechniques, from peelingprawns to skinningtomatoes; on typicalingredients such asalmonds, bread, cured meatand saffron; and even tipson how to serve them asappetizers or as an entiremeal. Try classics likemarinated anchovies orpatatas bravas, orcontemporary options suchas goats’ cheese in tarragondressing or griddled quailwith almond sauce. Newand old school tapas inperfect harmony. (OctopusPublishing Group Ltd.,www.octopus.co.uk)

LASTINGIMPRESSIONS

TextSamaraKamenecka/©ICEX




NORWAYKronprinsensgate, 30251 OsloTel.: (47) 22 83 76 76Fax: (47) 22 83 76 [email protected]

RUSSIAUl.Tverskaya – 16/2Business Center “GaleríaAktor”, 6th FloorMoscow 125009Tel.: (495) 935 83 99Fax: (495) 935 83 [email protected]

SINGAPORE541 Orchard Road # 09-04Liat Tower238881 SingaporeTel.: 67 37 30 08Fax: 67 37 31 [email protected]

SWEDENStureplan, 6114 35 StockholmTel.: (8) 611 19 92Fax: (8) 611 44 [email protected]

UNITED KINGDOM79 New Cavendish Street,2nd FloorLondon W1W 6XBTel.: (20) 7317 20 10Fax: (20) 7317 20 [email protected]

UNITED STATESWater Tower PlaceSuite 915 East845 North Michigan AvenueChicago, IL 60611Tel.: (312) 642 19 92Fax: (312) 642 98 [email protected]

8383 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 960Beverly Hills, CA 90211Tel.: (323) 658 71 95Fax: (323) 658 10 [email protected]

1395 Brickell AvenueSuite 1130Miami, FL 33131Tel.: (305) 358 19 92Fax: (305) 358 82 [email protected]

666 Fifth Avenue, 35th floorNew York, NY 10103Tel.: (212) 265 88 22Fax: (212) 265 88 [email protected]

PARADOR CENTRALBOOKING OFFICERequena, 328013 MADRIDTel.: (+34) 915 166 700Fax: (+34) 915 166 663/4/[email protected]


SWEDENSergels Torg, 12, 13 tr.SE-111-57 StockholmTel.: (8) 24 66 10Fax: (8) 20 88 [email protected]

UNITED KINGDOM66 Chiltern StreetW1U 4LS LondonTel.: (20) 7467 23 30Fax: (20) 7487 55 86/7224 64 [email protected]

UNITED STATES405 Lexington Av. Floor 4410174 4497 New York, NYTels.: (212) 661 49 59/60Fax: (212) 972 24 [email protected]

For tourist information,contact your nearest TOURISTOFFICE OF SPAIN

CANADA2 Bloor Street WestSuite 3402Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2Tels.: (416) 961 31 31/40 79Fax: (416) 961 19 [email protected]

CHINATayuan Office Building 2-12-2Liangmahe Nanlu 14100600 BeijingTels.: (10) 65 32 93 06/07Fax: (10) 65 32 93 [email protected]

DENMARKFrederiksgade, 11, 2DK-1265 Copenhagen KTel.: 33 18 66 30Fax: 33 15 83 [email protected]

ITALYVia Broletto, 3020121 MilanTel.: (02) 72 00 46 17Fax: (02) 72 00 43 [email protected]

Via del Mortaro, 19Interno 500187 RomeTel.: (06) 678 31 06Fax: (06) 679 82 [email protected]

JAPANDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.6F-3-1-10 ToranomonMinato Ku, Tokyo 105-0001Tels.: (3) 34 32 61 41/42Fax: (3) 34 32 61 [email protected]

NETHERLANDSLaan van Meerdervoot, 8 A2517 The HagueTel.: (70) 346 59 00Fax: (70) 364 98 [email protected]

DENMARKVesterbrogade 10, 3º1620 Copenhagen VTel.: (33) 31 22 10Fax: (33) 21 33 [email protected]

HONG KONG2004 Tower One, Lippo Centre89 Queensway AdmiraltyHong KongTels.: 25 21 74 33/25 22 75 12Fax: 28 45 34 [email protected]

IRELAND35, Molesworth StreetDublin 2Tel.: (1) 661 63 13Fax: (1) 661 01 [email protected]

ITALYVia del Vecchio Politecnico, 3 16º20121 MilanTel.: (02) 78 14 00Fax: (02) 78 14 [email protected]

JAPAN3Fl, 1-3-29. RoppongiMinato-KuTokyo 106-0032Tel.: (3) 55 75 04 31Fax: (3) 55 75 64 [email protected]

MALAYSIA20th Floor. Menara Boustead69, Jalan Raja Chulan50200 Kuala Lumpur

P.O. Box 1185650760 Kuala LumpurTel.: (3) 2148 73 00Fax: (3) 2141 50 [email protected]

NETHERLANDSBurg. Patijnlaan, 672585 The HagueTels.: (70) 364 31 66/345 13 13Fax: (70) 360 82 [email protected]

NORWAYKarl Johansgate, 18 C0159 OsloTel.: (23) 31 06 80Fax: (23) 31 06 [email protected]

RUSSIAUl. Vozdvizhenka, 4/7(enter via Mokhovaya 7,Business Centre Mokhovaya,3rd Floor)125009 MoscowTels.: (495) 783 9281/82/83/84/85Fax: (495) 783 92 [email protected]

SINGAPORE7 Temasek Boulevard,#19-03 Suntec Tower One038987 SingaporeTel.: 67 32 97 88Fax: 67 32 97 [email protected]

If you would like to knowmore about any subject dealtwith in this magazine, exceptfor tourist information, pleasewrite to the ECONOMIC ANDCOMMERCIAL OFFICES ATTHE EMBASSIES OF SPAIN,marking the envelope REF:SPAIN GOURMETOUR.

AUSTRALIAEdgecliff Centre, Suite 408203 New South Head RoadEdgecliff NSW 2027 SydneyTels.: (2) 93 62 42 12/3/4Fax: (2) 93 62 40 [email protected]

CANADA2 Bloor St. East, Suite 1506Toronto Ontario, M4W 1A8Tel.: (416) 967 04 88 / 28 62Fax: (416) 968 95 [email protected]

CHINASpain Bldg., 5th-6th FloorGongtinanlu A1-b, ChaoyangDistrict100020 BeijingTel.: (10) 58 799 733Fax: (10) 58 799 [email protected]

25th Floor, Westgate Mall1038 Nanjing Xi Road200041 ShanghaiTel.: (21) 62 17 26 20Fax: (21) 62 67 77 [email protected]

SPAINOVERSEAS

15-ESPAÑA EN EL MUNDO_MAQUETA SPAIN OVERSEAS.qxd 26/11/09 11:40 Página 126


Matarromera, grandesvinos del Duero.(Matorromera, Great DueroWines). English, Spanish.This book is comprised of acompilation of texts fromsome of the world’s greatestspecialized journalists andfood critics, includingTeresa Pacheco, José Peñin,André Dominé andFernando Lázaro, whodiscuss Matarromera group’swineries, located in Spain’sDuero region. The group,which owns six wineries anda distillery spanning fourDOs and surrounded by theDuero River, is also involvedin countless projects,including enotourism, oliveoil production and wine-based cosmetics. It is knowninternationally for itsexcellent wines, its morethan 400 vineyards and itscommitment to innovationand research. Contributionsare accompanied by fantasticphotographs, bringingreaders closer to this leadingwine group and giving thema taste of its success.(Grupo Matarromera,comunicació[email protected],www.grupomatarromera.com)

La acuicultura en lagastronomía del siglo XXI(Aquaculture inGastronomy in the 21st

Century). English, Spanish.Spain has seen risingdemand for fish productsover the last few years, andsince extractive fishingalone can’t meet thatdemand, aquaculture hasexpanded. This bookdiscusses aquaculture as anessential segment of Spain’sgastronomy and providesdetailed data on its history,cultivated species andcultivation techniques,socio-economic importance,the gastronomic value offarmed fish, wine matching,the global aquaculturemarket, innovation, farmedfish’s nutritional value and,of course, a selection ofrecipes. They include suchbrilliant suggestions asroasted turbot witheggplant and tomatocannelloni, and sea basswith squid noodles, fenneland sun-dried tomatoes.(Editorial MIC,www.editorialmic.com)

Vichy Catalán. 125 años dehistoria (Vichy Catalán.125 Years of History) byNatalia Piernas. Catalan,English, Spanish. Spain’smost famous brand ofmineral water, VichyCatalán, recently celebrateda milestone: 125 years inthe business. This almost500-page book provides acloser look at the company’sstory and all of thechallenges it has facedduring its journey to thetop. It describes in greatdetail the history of thebrand, its commitment tohealth and research, and itsrole in gastronomy, andincludes a selection ofmedical and scientificarticles linking VichyCatalán and good health. Italso features a selection ofrecipes from superstars likeMey Hoffman, Ferran Adrià,and Carme Ruscalleda,whose delicious suggestionsall include Vichy Catalán intheir preparation. (VienaEdicions,www.viendaeditorial.com)

La cocina del cántabrico.Cenador de Amós.(Cantabrian Cuisine.Cenador de Amós) by JesúsSánchez. Spanish. Thisbook celebrates Sánchez,recognized as one of Spain’sleading chefs; hisrestaurant, Cenador deAmós, in Villaverde dePontones; and northerncuisine. Cooking todayrequires the rightcombination of science,skill, intellect, talent,originality and respect fortradition, and Sánchez hitsthe nail on the head inevery department. The textincludes information on hischildhood, culinaryphilosophy and agriculturein northern Spain, as wellas the ideas behind theconcept of the restaurant.Recipes include creativeconcoctions such as creamof garbanzos with cod andleek brandade, salt-encrusted sardines withcheese and watermelon,and fresh duck liver withcoffee marmalade and grapesoup. (Editorial Everest,www.everest.es)









































SPAINOVERSEAS









































SPAINOVERSEAS














Source: ICEX








EXPORTERS







Tel: +(34) 926 266 410Fax: +(34) 926 266 413

[email protected]


















Source: ICEX








EXPORTERS







Tel: +(34) 926 266 410Fax: +(34) 926 266 413

[email protected]






Aceites Borges Pont, S.A.Tel.: (34) 973 501 212Fax: (34) 973 314 [email protected]: Inside front cover

Alimentaria Exhibitions, S.A.(Fira de Barcelona)Tel.: (34) 934 521 800Fax: (34) 934 521 [email protected]: 5

Bodegas Franco EspañolasTel.: (34) 941 251 300Fax: (34) 941 262 948francoespanolas@francoespanolas.comwww.francoespanolas.comPage: 125

Bodegas ProtosTel.: (34) 983 878 011Fax: (34) 983 878 015www.bodegasprotos.comPage: 128

Consorcio del Jamón SerranoEspañolTel.: (34) 917 356 085Fax: (34) 917 350 [email protected]: 8

España Original – Excma.Diputación de Ciudad RealTel.: (34) 926 254 060Fax: (34) 926 232 [email protected]: 9

Industrial QueseraCuquerellaTel.: (34) 926 266 410Fax: (34) 926 266 [email protected]: 129

Junta de ExtremaduraTel.: (34) 924 010 858Fax: (34) 924 010 870www.comercioextremadura.orgPage: 120

Rafael Salgado, S.A.Tel.: (34) 916 667 875Fax: (34) 916 [email protected]: 123

Sánchez Romate Hnos., S.A.Tel.: (34) 956 182 212Fax: (34) 956 185 [email protected]: 130

Sánchez Romero CarvajalJabujo, S.A. (5 Jotas)Tel.: (34) 917 283 880Fax: (34) 917 283 [email protected]: Back cover

Spanish Commercial OfficeTel.: (212) 661-4959Fax: (212) [email protected]: 6

Wines From Spainwww.winesfromspain.esPage: 122

Extenda-Agencia Andaluzade Promoción ExteriorTel.: (34) 902 508 525Fax: (34) 902 508 [email protected]: 119

F.J. Sánchez Sucesores, S.A.Tel.: (34) 950 364 038Fax: (34) 950 364 [email protected]: Inside back cover

Federico Paternina, S.A.Tel.: (34) 941 310 550Fax: (34) 941 312 [email protected]: 4

González Byass, S.A.(Tio Pepe)Tel.: (34) 956 357 004Fax: (34) 956 357 [email protected]: 7

Grupo GourmetsTel.: (34) 915 489 651Fax: (34) 915 487 [email protected]: 124

Jolca, S.A.Tel.: (34) 955 029 450Fax: (34) 954 151 [email protected]: 121

ADINDEX

MANUARY-APRIL 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 131

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p. 40 Patricia R. Soto/©ICEXpp. 41-42 Pablo Neustadt/©ICEXp. 43 Izquierda ALMENDRAVE;center and right: FernandoMadariaga/©ICEXp. 44 Fernando Madariaga/©ICEXpp. 45-46 Toya Legido/©ICEXp. 47 Juan Manuel Sanz/©ICEXp. 48 Heinz Hebeisen/©ICEXp. 49 From top to bottom: PabloNeustadt/©ICEX; Patricia R.Soto/©ICEX

Where Science MeetsCuisinep. 50 Miguel S. Moñita and LucíaM. Diz/©ICEXp. 51 Left: Francesc Guillamet;right: Miguel S. Moñita and LucíaM. Diz/©ICEXp. 52 From top to bottom: ToyaLegido/©ICEX; Miguel S. Moñitaand Lucía M. Diz/©ICEXp. 53 Tomás Zarza/©ICEXp. 54 Francesc Guillametp. 55 Fernando Madariaga/©ICEXpp. 56-58 Miguel S. Moñita andLucía M. Diz/©ICEXp. 59 Maribel Ruíz de Erenchunp. 60 From top to bottom: MaribelRuíz de Erenchun; FrancescGuillametp. 61 Miguel S. Moñita and LucíaM. Diz/©ICEXp. 62 From top to bottom: ToyaLegido/©ICEX; Francesc Guillametp. 63 Maribel Ruíz de Erenchun

Mango and Papayap. 64 Yanet Acosta/©ICEXp. 65 Top: Yanet Acosta/©ICEX;bottom: Juan Manuel Sanz/©ICEX

CoverJuan Manuel Sanz/©ICEX

Contentsp. 2 Toya Legido/©ICEXp. 3 From top to bottom: FernandoMadariaga/©ICEX; Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEX (3 photos); ToyaLegido/©ICEX

Route of the SpanishLanguagep. 10 Antonio de Benitopp. 11-16 Luis Carré/©ICEXp. 17 From top to bottom: JuanManuel Sanz/©ICEX; LuisCarré/©ICEXpp. 18-19 Luis Carré/©ICEXp. 20 From top to bottom: LuisCarré/©ICEX; BlancaBerlín/©ICEXpp. 21-23 Luis Carré/©ICEX

Andalusian Redsp. 24 Fernando Madariaga/©ICEXp. 25 Manuel RuizHernández/©ICEXpp. 26-30 FernandoMadariaga/©ICEXpp. 31–32 Patricia Soto/©ICEXpp. 33-34 FernandoMadariaga/©ICEXp. 35 ©ICEXpp. 36-37 FernandoMadariaga/©ICEX; Map: JavierBelloso

Cava and Gastronomyp. 38 Toya Legido/©ICEXp. 39 Fernando Madariaga/©ICEX

CREDITSp. 66 Juan Manuel Sanz/©ICEXp. 67 Yanet Acosta/©ICEXp. 68 Juan Manuel Sanz/©ICEXp. 69 Yanet Acosta/©ICEXpp. 70-71 Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEXp. 72 Yanet Acosta/©ICEXp. 73 Juan Manuel Sanz/©ICEXp. 74 Juan Manuel Sanz/©ICEXp. 75 Map: Javier Belloso

Honeypp. 76-81 Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEXp. 82 Left: Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEX; right: PGI Miel deGalicia Regulatory Councilpp. 83-89 Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEX; Map: Javier Belloso

Competitive Cookingpp. 90–92 José Antonio Crescentep. 93 Miguel S. Moñita and LucíaM. Diz/©ICEX

Recipespp. 94-95 Tomás Zarza/©ICEXp. 96-105 Recipes: ToyaLegido/©ICEX; Restaurant photos:Tomás Zarza/©ICEX

On the Movepp. 106-108 Illustrations: AVI

Conservas Rosarapp. 109-113 Conservas Rosara

Have a Spanish Break!p. 114 Patricia Langton/©ICEXp. 115 Iberica Food & Culture

18 CREDITOS IN_MAQUETA CREDITS.qxd 26/11/09 11:44 Página 132

Documents

Spain Gourmetour 78 (2010)