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33Collars, Sleeves,

and Skirtschapter

706

COLLARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707COLLAR DESIGNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707

1. Shirt Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7072. Sailor Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7073. Peter Pan Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7074. Collar and Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .707

DARTLESS SLEEVE FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 708Dartless Sleeve Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .708

SLEEVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7091. Puff Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7092. Leg-o-Mutton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7093. Petal Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7094. Bell Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .709

SLEEVE DESIGN VARIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 710Cap SleeveDesign 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .710Ruffled SleeveDesign 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .711Saucer SleeveDesign 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .711Baby Puff SleeveDesign 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .711Drawstring Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .712

SKIRTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7131. Tiered Skirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7132. Cascades/Partial Circles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7133. Gore Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7134. Pleated Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7135. Full Circle Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .713Flared Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .714Gathered Skirt with Stylized Waist Band . . . . .715Yoked Circular Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .716

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COLLARS, SLEEVES, AND SKIRTS 707

COLLARSThe theory, terminology, and other design variationsfor collar development are found in Chapter 10.

COLLAR DESIGNSCollars that are shown follow the same draft instruc-tions given for adult collars.

Tab these page numbers for future use:

1. Shirt collarpage 181

2. Sailor collarpage 188

3. Peter Pan collarpages 186187

4. Collar and standpage 194

Other collar designs follow.

1. Shirt Collar

2. Sailor Collar

3. Peter Pan Collar

4. Collar and Stand

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708 Chapter 33

DARTLESS SLEEVEFOUNDATION

The dartless sleeve is developed from the basic sleeve.The dartless sleeve can be used as a base for sleeves notrequiring an elbow dart. Two types of dartless sleevefoundation are illustrated: the full sleeve and the half sleeve. Use the full dartless sleeve for sleeve designsthat vary on each side of the grainline and the half sleeve for designs that are the same on the back andfront sleeve except for the curve of the front capline.

Dartless Sleeve DraftFigure 1 Trace the basic sleeve (broken lines). Square a line from the grainline to front hemline

and continue line across the pattern (brokenlines indicate the original hemline).

Square lines down from biceps. (The elbow dartis eliminated.)

Figure 2 Measure and mark one-half of entry measure-

ment out from each side of the grainline anddraw lines to biceps for reference.

Divide the sleeve into four equal parts and drawlines through the pattern.

Divide the cap into four equal parts. Cut the sleeve from paper.

Figure 3 Half Sleeve Trace the back sleeve to the grainline; include

lines (1 and 2). Mark for entry. Place the front sleeve on top of the back sleeve

and trace curve of the sleeve (gray area separatesfront from back sleeve).Suggestion: Mark sleeve lengths for quick reference.

Wrist

Elbow

Biceps

BASIC SLEEVE

Figure 1

Entry measurement

1 2 3 4

1 2 3 4

Figure 2

Elbow

Half of entry measurement

Biceps

Frontarmhole

1 2

Short sleeve

3/4 length

Figure 3

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SLEEVESSleeves that are shown follow the same instructionsgiven for adult sleeves of the same designs.

The following page numbers for each sleeve

should be tabbed for quick reference:1. Puff sleevespages 311312

2. Leg-o-mutton sleevespage 324

3. Petal sleevespages 315316

4. Bell sleevespage 314

Other sleeve designs follow.

1. Puff Sleeve

2. Leg-o-Mutton

3. Petal Sleeve

4. Bell Sleeve

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710 Chapter 33

SLEEVE DESIGN VARIATIONSThe first four sleeve designs are illustrated, with Design 5 presented as a thought problem.

Cap SleeveDesign 1The sleeve cap fits closer around the upper arm areathan does the basic sleeve.

Figure 1 Trace the upper part of the dartless sleeve. Draw the curved hemline, as shown. Mark the slash line.

Designs 1 2 3 4 5

1/2 " to 1" Slash line

C e n

t e r

1/2 "

Figure 1

Figure 2 Cut the pattern from paper, slash, and place on

fold of paper. Overlap slash line; secure and trace the sleeve.

Blend lapped area. Cut and trim where shown.

Blend

Trim

Paper

Overlap 1/4 "

Figure 2

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Ruffled SleeveDesign 2The ruffled sleeve is stitched to the armhole, notchto notch. To determine fullness, measure the frontand back bodice armhole from notch to notch andadd two times the measurement. The sleeve can be

stitched past the armhole notches, if desired.Figure 1 Fold the paper, mark the center, and square a line

up 1 1/2 inches less than the cap height. On the fold, measure out from the center to the

amount of fullness desired. Draw a curved line to the marks on each side of

center. Complete the pattern for a test fit.

Baby Puff SleeveDesign 4The baby puff is specially drafted for controlled full-

ness that will not overwhelm the garment to whichit is attached. The sleeve is for sizes 3 to 5.

Figure 3 Trace the sleeve cap on fold of the paper (broken

lines). Draw a square line across biceps.

Saucer SleeveDesign 3The sleeve juts directly out from the armhole andcan be varied for different effects.

Figure 2

Trace the sleeve cap and follow the illustration asa guide for plotting the pattern. Cut from paper. The sleeve should be self-faced,

with interconstruction to hold its shape.

Shift sleeve along the biceps line equal to bicepswidth for fullness.

Place a push pin at notch and pivot the pattern

downward, 1 inch below the square line. Trace the sleeve curve to 1 inch down from the

underseam. (Uneven broken line is the positionof the sleeve when pivoted.)

Remove sleeve and draw the curved capline andhemline of the sleeve, as illustrated.

Complete the pattern for a test fit.

1 1/2 "

3/4 "

1/2 "1/2 "

Figure 2

C

A

B

D

Biceps

1 "- 1 1/2 "

1 " to 1 1/2 "1 "

SLEEVE(when pivoted)

Paper

Figure 3

Fold lineCap height:minus 1 1/2 "

Gathers

Fullness: 2 or 3 to 1

Stitch to armholenotch to notch

Paper Figure 1

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712 Chapter 33

Drawstring SleeveThe sleeve with a pull-up tie is based on the basic, orthe dartless sleeve pattern.

Figure 1 Trace half sleeve 1 inch below biceps. Label X. Plot the sleeve design lines. Label cap A. C is

marked at biceps level. B is one-half of AC. Capease, less 1/4 inch, is removed from the sleeve.The slight curve between points B and C allowsthe arm to show through. Mark and cut slashlines, as illustrated. Trim sleeve from X to C.

Figure 2 Draw a square line and spread the slashed lines

to fit the square line. The letters A, B, and C indi-cate their locations on the pattern.

Figure 3 Add seam allowances. Trace two copies of the sleeve and trim the curve

of the front sleeve. Note the locations of the let-ters and their relationship to the plotted pattern(Figure 1).

Complete the pattern and test fit. Stitch ABtogether.

A

B

C

1 "X

Trim cap easeFigure 1

A B

C

Figure 2

BA

CCasing to pullthrough spaghetti tie

Trim frontsleeve

Cut 2

1/2 " to 3/4 "Figure 3

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SKIRTSFor skirt terminology, belt construction, and otherskirt designs, see Chapter 13. Skirts for sizes 3 to 6Xmay be belted without elastic. However, waist bands

generally have elastic inserted either across the backsection or completely around the waist band. Seepages 755 and 756 for guidance. For waist band andzipper, see Chapter 13.

Other Skirt Designs:

1. Tiered skirts pages 271273

2. Cascades and partial circles pages 295296

3. Gored skirt pages 249260

4. Pleated skirt page 279

5. Full circle skirt pages 290291

2. Cascades/Partial Circles

3. Gore Skirt 4. PleatedSkirt

5. Full Circle Skirt

1. Tiered Skirts

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714 Chapter 33

Flared SkirtDesign Analysis: Designs 1 and 2Design 1 is a flared gored skirt. Design 2 is a basicflared skirt (like Design 1 but without a centerseam). Design 3 is a gathered skirt with a stylized

waist band. Designs are appropriate for sizes 7 to 14.

Flared Skirt DraftDesign 1Figures 1 and 2 Figures 1 and 2 illustrate the waist darts closed,

transferring excess to the hemline sweep, with atleast 1 1/4 inches added to the side seam for anA-line silhouette.

Complete patterns for a test fit, either as a goredskirt with center front and center back seams oras a basic flare. Cut on fold.

For waist band and zipper construction, seepages 595 and 598.

FRONT

Figure 1

BACK

Figure 2

Design 1 Design 2

Design 3

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Gathered Skirt with StylizedWaist BandDesign Analysis: Design 3Waist bands that are designed below the waistline of the figure must take the design shape from the skirtbefore the pattern is manipulated. The fullness of the skirt is equal at the waist and hem (dirndle).

Skirt DraftFigure 1 Plot the styleline on the basic pattern and cut

from paper.

Figure 2 On fold of the paper, trace waist band and trace

a copy of the skirt curve section to the band.

Figure 3 Slash and spread to the desired amount of full-

ness. Follow the centers of the spread sectionswhen drawing the waistline of the skirt.

Repeat the process for the back skirt, without the

curved line of the front pattern. Complete the pattern for a test fit.

Figure 1

C ent er f r ont

C ut

onf ol d

Paper

Figure 3

Fold line

Skirt section

Paper

Figure 2

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Yoked Circular SkirtThe skirt is designed for sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14.Elastic can be inserted into the waist band, leavingthe back dart excess to be gathered into the band.

Design AnalysisThe yoked skirt is designed and separated fromthe skirt draft before the lower skirt section ismanipulated.

For waist band and zipper construction, seepages 595 and 598.

Yoked Skirt DraftFigure 1 Trace the basic skirt front.

Plot the pattern, using the illustration, design,size, and height of the model as a guide. Skirt canbe any length desired.

Figure 2 Cut yoke from the pattern and trace on fold of

the paper, closing the waist dart. (Do not closethe dart if elastic is used in the waist band.)

Figure 3 Cut slash lines, place the skirt on fold of the

paper, and spread for hemline sweep. Add to theside seam, as illustrated.

Repeat for the back skirt. Complete the patterns for a test fit.

Length

Repeat for back skirt

Figure 1

YOKERepeatfor back

Closedart

Figure 2

716 Chapter 33

One-half thedistance toside seam

Paper

Figure 3

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