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36INTRODUCTION TO PANTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .750TROUSER FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .750Trouser Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .750

SLACK FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .752

Slack Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .752

JEAN FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .753Jean Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .753

WAIST OPTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .755

Waist Band Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .755

Waist Band Controls the Waist . . . . . . . . . . . . .755

Elastic Controls the Waist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .755

Partial Waist Band and Elastic . . . . . . . . . . . . .756

Grunge Pant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .756

PANT VARIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .757

Pleated Trouser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .757

Baggy Pant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .758

Western Jean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .759

Bell-Bottom Pants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .761GUIDELINE MARKING FOR PANT DERIVATIVES . . . . .763

Definitions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .763

Flared Shorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .764

Short-Shorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .765

KnickersDesign 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .765

JUMPSUIT FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .766

Jumpsuit Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .767

Jumpsuit with Blousing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .767

Oversized Jumpsuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .767

Tank-Top Jumpsuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .768

Bib Overall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .769

Pants and

Jumpsuitschapter

749

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750 Chapter 36

INTRODUCTION TO PANTSThe theory, terminology, and other design variationsfor pants are found in Chapter 26.

Three pant foundations are illustrated in this

chapter. Consider size, height, and age of the modelbefore plotting the designs. The back pant can befinished with a waist band, elastic, or a combinationof both. The trouser foundation fits loosely at thecrotch level. The slack foundation fits closer and thejean foundation fits very closely.

The pant foundations are drafted for sizes 3 to6X and 7 to 14 (16), for boys and girls.

TROUSER FOUNDATION

The trouser is a loosely fitted pant that hangsstraight from the buttocks. The pleated trouser andbaggy-style pants are based on this foundation. Forwaistband options, see pages 755 and 756.

Measurements Needed

(18) Waist to ankle (pant length) __________.

(27) Crotch depth __________.

(15) Hip arc, plus 1/2 inch F __________ B_______.

(14) Waist arc, plus 1/2 inch F __________ B_____.

(20) Upper thigh __________.

(24) Foot entry __________.

Trouser DraftFigure 1AB pant length (18).

AC crotch depth, plus 3/4 inch (27).

AD one-half of AC.

BE one-half of BC, plus 1 inch. Mark.

Square out from A, D, C, E, and B.

CF back hip arc (15).

Square up from F to waist. Label G.

FH one-half of CF. Mark.

CI front hip arc (15).

Square up from I to waist. Label J.

IK one-fourth of CI. Mark.

Trouser Slack Jeans

FRONT

Hip

Crotch

Knee

D

C

E

I K

JAG

H F

Extension:

1/2 hip arc

Hip arc

B

Extension:

1/4 hip arc

BACK

Figure 1

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PANTS AND JUMPSUITS 751

Figure 2GX 1/2 inch, squared up 1/4 inch.

Draw a straight line from X to crotch level,touching hip level. Draw crotch curve from Hand K to hip level.

AL 1/8 inch.

AM 3/8 inch.

Draw hipline from waist to just above D.

Draw waistline from X to L.

HN one-half of HC. Mark.

KO one-half of KC. Mark.

Square grainlines through N and O.

Dart Intake

Ignore dart intake if waist band is elastic.

Subtract back waist arc (14), from XL length.

The difference is dart intake. Mark dart intake 1 inch from the grainline

(length: 3 to 4 inches).

Subtract the front waist arc (14) from MJ line.The difference is dart intake.

Mark dart intake on each side of the grainline(length: 2 1/2 to 3 inches).

Inseam guidelines are drawn 1/2 inch in frompoints H and K. Leglines are curved from H andK to knee levels. Mark 1" from B and draw sideseams to D.

Figure 3The finished patterns are illustrated. Test fit only af-ter the waist is secured with a waist band and zipper(or elastic).

1 " 1 "

1 "X

BACK

D

FRONT

L M J

Hip

C Crotch

Knee

Gra

inline

equalmeasuremeasureequal

Gra

inline

B

G

IH F

A

E

1/2 "

1/2 "

1/4 "

1/8 " 3/8 "

1/2 "

K

Figure 2

BACK FRONT

Hip

Crotch

Knee

Gra

inline

Gra

inline

Figure 3

Fly extensionattached, or

separate

3/4 " to 1 inch

Fly extension

Figure 4 Figure 5

Figures 4,5The fly front can be in one with the pant or devel-oped as a separate pattern.

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752 Chapter 36

SLACK FOUNDATIONThe slack draft is based on the trouser foundation. It is an appropriate draft for sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14, forgirls and boys. The slack pant fits closer than does the trouser. The slack pant is adaptable for many designsand derivatives.

Slack DraftFigure 1

Trace the front and back trouser pant. The crotchlevel is raised 3/8 inch and the pant leg is tapered.

Figure 2The back pant is adjusted to fit closer to the figure byshortening crotch point and raising crotch 3/8 inch.The grainline must be centered to balance the pant.

BC AB.

EF DE.

Redraw the legline.

Complete the pattern for a test fit.

See pages 765766 for waistline options.FRONTSLACK

3/8 "

1/4 "1/4 "

3/8 "3/8 "

Grainline

Figure 1

3/4 "

3/4 "

3/8 "

1 "

3/8 " 1/4 "

1/4 "

BACKSLACK

Move

centergrainline

D E F

A B C

Figure 2

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JEAN FOUNDATIONThe jean foundation fits to the contour of the figure.Stylelines associated with the jean pant apply also tothe slack and trouser foundations (yokes and fly

fronts). It is appropriate for boys and girls, 3 to 6Xand 7 to 14.For waistline options, see pages 765766.

Measurements Needed

(18) Waist to ankle (pant length) _______.

(27) Crotch depth _______.

(15) Hip arc, plus 3/8 inch F _______ B_______.

(14) Waist arc, plus 1/4 inch F _______ B_______.

(20) Upper thigh _______.

(21) Knee measurement _______.

(24) Foot entry _______.

Jean DraftFigure 1AB pant length.

AC crotch depth. Mark.

AD one-half of AC. Mark.

BE one-half of BC, plus 1 inch. Mark.

CF back hip arc. Squareup to waist level. Label G.

FH one-fourth hip arc, plus 1/2 inch.

CI front hip arc.

Square up from I to waist. Label J.

IK 1 1/2 inches.

A

D

C

B

Extension:

1 1/2 "

Hip arc

BACK FRONT

Hip

Crotch

Knee E

H KF I

JG

Extension:

1/4 of hipplus 1/2 "

Figure 1

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754 Chapter 36

LM N

BACK FRONT

O

D

E

B

1/4 "1/4 "

Knee

C

3/8 "

Hip arcless 2 "

equally divided

Hip arcless 2 3/4 "

equally divided

AJ

H F I K

+ 1/4 "+ 1/4 " + 1/4 " + 1/4 "

G

1/4 "

1/4 "

1 "

3/4 "

C C

Figure 2Figure 2GL 1/2 inch (sizes 3 to 7) and square up 5/8

inch. 1 inch (sizes 7 to 14) and square up3/4 inch.

Draw a straight line from L to crotchlevel, touching hipline.

LM waist arc, plus 1/4 inch. Use red pencil tocomplete back draft if M overlaps A.

Draw a line from L to M for waist.

Draw hipline curve from M to D.

JN 1/4 inch in and squared up 1/4 inch.Draw a straight line from N to crotchlevel, touching hipline.

NO waist arc, plus 1/4 inch. Mark.

Draw line from N to O.

Draw crotch curve from K to hipline.

Grainline

Mark 1/4 inch in from each side of C. Relabel C.

Mark centers between CH (back)and CK (front). Square up and down throughfront and back patterns for grainline.

Legline

Draw lines up from hem to knee to H and K usingthe measurements given.

Draw inward curves from knee to H and K.

Draw an outward curve down from D and blend-ing with an inward curve up from knee. Blendwith hipline curve.

If M and O overlap, place paper under the pantdraft and trace either the front or back pant be-fore cutting pants apart.

Figure 3 Fly InstructionDecide which side the fly will be added (right side female or left side male). The fly can be extended from thepant or a separate fly can be stitched to the front. The shield is twice the width of the fly and 1 inch longer.

Follow the sewing instructions for stitching the fly, waist band with loops (tab pages 755, 588, and 597),

and jean pocket (draft is on page 760).

BACK FRONT FRONT

3/4 to 1 "Separated fly

ShieldFigure 3

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WAIST OPTIONSThe pant or skirt can be secured to the waist in one of four ways. Models sized 3 to 6X generally have part orall of the waistline encased with elastic. Sizes 7 to 14 models may desire a regular waist band attached to thegarment.

Waist Band DraftFigure 1

Draw line equal to waist measurement, plus 1-inch extension.

Fold paper. Square down 1 inch for width of band.

Add seam allowance; notch for extensions. Cut from paper.

Waist Band Controls the WaistFigures 2a,bWaist bands are used when the garment has dart con-trol at the waistline or when a garment like the jeanis developed without darts. See page 754.

Elastic Controls the Waist

Figures 3a,b,cThe front and back waistline is raised 2 3/4 inches asa casing for the insertion of 1-inch elastic. The elasticshould measure the same as the models waistline.The elastic is overlapped 1 inch. This shortens theelastic enough to hold garment securely to the waist.

For more fullness, add to the side seam of thefront and back pant, or add only to the back pant,see Figure 3a.

(Button and buttonhole can be reversed)

Figure 1

FRONT PANT

Waist band(without elastic)

BACK PANT

Figure 2a Figure 2b

Elastic waist

Add 3/4 " to1 "to front/backat side seamto hem, ortaper leglineto pant hem

BACK

2 3/4 "

Crotch

Figure 3a

Elastic waist

2 3/4 "

FRONT PANT BACK PANT

Figure 3b Figure 3c

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756 Chapter 36

Partial Waist Band and ElasticFigures 4a,b,cThe elastic is placed in the back with a partial waist-band in the front. The elastic can also end at the sidefront of the garment (as seen in jumpsuits). Theback waistline is raised 2 3/4 inches as a casing for

1-inch elastic. The front waist band pattern measuresone-half of front waist less ease allowance (waistdart is stitched). The elastic and waist band arejoined at the side seams. Add to the side seam for amore casual fit.

Grunge PantThe trouser foundation is traced and modified tocreate a grunge pant. The grunge pant has a deepcrotch and wide legline that can be of any length.

Create your own design on this foundation.Follow the illustration and measurement todevelop the pant.

Crotch

FRONT PANT

With dart,use waist band

Figure 4a

Front waist band

3/4 "

Figure 4b

BACK PANT

Elastic

back

Figure 4c

BACK FRONT

Hip

Crotch

Knee

Grainlin

e

Grainlin

e

1 to 2 " 1 to 2

1 to 2 " 1 to 2 "1 " 1 "

Figure 1

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PANT VARIATIONS

Pleated TrouserThe pleated trouser can also be drafted from theslack pant for a closer fit. The pant design is for sizes

4 to 6X and 7 to 14 for boys and girls. More than onepleat can be created by spreading more than oneplace on the draft. The pant can also be cuffed.

Design Analysis

The pant is plotted for slash placement (one pleat isillustrated, but by placing more slash lines, morepleats can be added to the pant draft). The fly frontcan be placed on either side of the front pant. Theback pant is basic.

Pleated Trouser Draft

Figures 1,2

Trace the front and back trouser pant.

Slash at grainline of the pant and spread 1 1/2 to2 inches for pleat intake.

For the fly front, add 3/4 to 1 inch to pant front(the length of the fly should be at least 1 inchlonger than the zipper). For sewing instructions,see Chapter 26.

Waist Band Options

Decide the type of waist band best suited to the de-sign. See pages 755756.

Crotch

Knee Knee

Crotch

BACKTROUSER

FRONTTROUSER

1 1/2 " to 2 "

Grainline G

rainline

3/4 " to 1 "fly ext.

Figure 1 Figure 2

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758 Chapter 36

Baggy PantThe trouser pant is the base for pants that are veryfull through the legline. The draft is suitable for sizes3 to 6X and 7 to 14, for boys or girls.

Design Analysis

This is a fun pant, to be made as full as desired andcut to any length. Fullness is added through thesides of the pattern.

Design 1The pant is gathered at the waist and the hemline ofthe pant and is secured with elastic or may be sewnto a band at waist and ankle. Design 2 is a thoughtproblem.

Baggy DraftFigure 1

Trace front and back trouser, spacing the patternsto the amount of fullness desired.

Extend the waistline 2 3/4 inches for 1-inchelastic.

Cut 1-inch elastic equal to the waist measure-ment. One inch is used for lapping and stitchingtogether.

Cut 1/2-inch elastic equal to foot entry mea-surement plus 1 inch. One inch is used for

lapping and stitching together.

Lower the crotch (it may be lower for a moreexaggerated look).

Extend the pant length for blousing.

Taper the legline to control fullness.

Complete the pattern for a test fit. BACK FRONT

Hip

Crotch

KneeOriginalSS

OriginalSS

Grainline

1 " or more

1 "

Waistline

1 "

Added fullness

Foldline

Figure 1

Design 1

Design 2

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Western JeanThe standard jean pant is based on the jean founda-tion. The design is for 3 to 6X and 7 to 14, for boysand girls. The fly front for girls may beon either side.

Design Analysis

The traditional western jean pant can be developedwith a tapered legline or designed as a boot pant.

Determine the type of waistline best suited tothe design. See pages 755756.


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760 Chapter 36

Figures 1,2

Trace front and back jean patterns.

Plot the patterns, as illustrated.

Figures 3a, b, c Front

Place paper under the pocket section of the draftand trace pocket backing and facing.

Trim the pocket styleline from the pattern.

Figures 4a,b,c Place paper under yoke part of the draft and trace

back yoke.

Trace back pocket from the pattern. Figure 4C

Back pant. Figure 4a

FRONTJEAN

G

rainline

Figure 3a

Pocketbacking

Figure 3b

Pocketfacing

Figure 3c

BACK JEAN

Figure 4a

YOKEC.B.

Figure 4b

Back pocket

Figure 4c

WAIST BAND

Ext.

Figure 5a

BACK

Add one inch for elastic waist bandFigure 5b

FRONTJEAN

BACKJEAN

2 1/4 "1 1/2 "

1 "

1 "

Figure 1 Figure 2

Figures 5a, b Waist band is illustrated. Cut on fold or cut two

pieces. If back elastic is required, add 1 inch tocenter back (See page 756, Figures 4b and c.)

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Bell-Bottom PantsThe bell-bottom pant is based on the jean founda-tion pattern for sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14, for boysand girls.

Design Analysis

Flared leglines distinguish this pant style. The flaredleg can be as wide as desired and can start from anypoint along the legline. The stylized opening hasbuttons and buttonholes for control.

Determine the type of waistline best suited tothe design. See pages 755 and 756.

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762 Chapter 36

FRONT

JEAN

FRONTJEAN

R.S. up R.S. up

Figure 5 Figure 6

BELT

Extension

Figure 7

Flared Legline

Figures 1,2

Use illustration as a guide to develop the flaredpant.

FRONTJEAN

BACKJEAN

Knee Knee1 " 1 " 1 " 1 "

C DB A

Equals A B Equals C D

3/4 " 3/4 "

Figure 1 Figure 2

Uneven Flared Legline

Figures 3,4

Use illustration as a guide to develop the unevenflared hemline.

3/4 "1/4 "

BACK PANT FRONT PANT

Figure 3 Figure 4

Facing Pattern

For the facing, trace the pant.

Figures 5,6

Use illustration, design, size, and height of themodel as guides in plotting the pattern.

Suggestion: Trace two copies of the flared legpant, extending the center lines for the overlap onone copy. Save the original pant for other designs.

Figure 7

If a waist band is used, add an extension for theoverlap.

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GUIDELINE MARKINGFOR PANT DERIVATIVES

Pant derivatives have shorter leglines than that ofthe pant foundation. For convenience in developing

other designs, mark the varied leglines on the pat-terns for reference. Tapered leglines may require afaced opening for foot entry. Lacings, zippers, or but-tons and buttonholes are suggested for leg openings.

Definitions

Short-shorts.Placed 3/4 to 1 inch below crotch levelat inseam and ending 3/4 to 1 inch above crotchlevel at side seam.

Shorts. Placed 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches below crotchlevel.

Jamaica. Placed halfway between crotch and knee.

Bermuda. Placed between knee and jamaica.

Pedal-pusher. Placed 2 inches down from knee.

Toreador. Placed between knee and ankle.

Capri. Placed 3/4 inch above ankle.

Shorts

Jamaica

Bermuda

Knee

Capri

Toreado

Pedal-pusher

High cutshorts

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764 Chapter 36

Flared ShortsThe flared shorts draft can be based on the trouser orslack pant. The design is for sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14.

Design AnalysisDesign 2

Two examples are illustrated for the flared short: abasic flare and added flare for greater hemlinesweep. Flare is added to the inside curve of the leg-line to balance the fullness.

Short-short Flared short Knickers

BACK

FRONTBlend

1/2 " to 3/4 " 3/8 " to 1/2 "

Figure 1 Figure 2

FRONT

BACK

A

B

Figure 3

Waistline Options

To decide the type of waistline best suited to the de-sign, see pages 755 and 756.

Basic Flared Shorts

Figures 1,2

Trace the front and back pant and draw pantlength.

Mark slash lines from dart points to hem of thepant. Slash; close darts.

Spread for flare at curve of the dart legs.

Shorts with Added Flare

Figures 3,4

Slash pattern to waistline and through dartpoint. Spread for added flare to the desiredamount.

Add flare to the side seams of the patterns equalto one-half the space of AB.

Figure 4

Design 1 Design 2 Design 3

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Short-ShortsThe high-cut short-short is for sizes 7 to 14 and isbased on either the slack or jean pant.

Design AnalysisDesign 1

The legline is plotted above crotch level at the sideseam and is tightened at the inside curve of the in-seams to fit closely around the upper leg.

Waistline Options

To decide the type of waistline best suited to the de-sign, see pages 755 and 756.

Figures 1,2

Trace the front and back patterns and markinseam 1" to 1 1/2".

Mark slash lines and draw curve of the pant legs.

Cut slash lines and overlap 1/4 inch.

Retrace patterns, blending the legline and crotchcurves.

Taper the inseams 1/4 inch.

For the legline facing, trace the legline curve(draw facing 3/4" wide).

KnickersDesign 3

The knicker pant is a pant derivative and can bedrafted from the trouser or slack pant for sizes 3 to6X and 7 to 14, for boys or girls.

Design Analysis

The knicker pant is generally plotted just below theknee. The fullness is gathered into a band and is but-toned for fit control.

Waist Band Options

To decide the type of waist band best suited to thedesign, see pages 755 and 756.

Figures 1,2

Trace the front and back pant.

Plot the pant, using illustration and designas a guide.

Figure 3

Use the knee bent measurement plus an exten-sion (3/4 to 1 inch) to develop the knicker band.The width of the band can vary for different de-

sign effects. The average finish is 1 inch. Complete the pattern for a test fit.

Overlap 1/4 "

BlendBlend

BACK FRONT

Hip

Overlap 1/4 "

1" to

1 1/2 "

Figure 1 Figure 2

Hip

Crotch

Knee

Hip

Crotch

Knee

1/2 " 1/2 " 1/2 " 1/2 "

Figure 1 Figure 2

KNICKER BAND

Equal to knee, plus 1 "

Figure 3

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766 Chapter 36

JUMPSUIT FOUNDATIONThe front and back basic bodice is combined withthe pant foundation to develop the jumpsuit pat-tern. The trouser, slack, or jean can be used for the

draft. However, if the jean is used as a base for ajumpsuit, the jumpsuit must be cut in a stretch fab-ric for comfort. The jumpsuit can be developed all-in-one with the bodice; it can be developed with thefront in-one with the bodice and the back with awaistline seam connecting the bodice with the backpant; or a top (bodice or any other top) can bestitched to the waistline of the front and back pant.

Elastic or a drawstring can be used to hold thegarment to the waist. At times it is fashionable notto girdle the waistline. The draft allows for blousingalong the back and side waist of the front jumpsuit.More blousing can be added for special design ef-fects, and the jumpsuit can be drafted oversized. The

pant length can also be varied. Several design ideasare given to show the versatility of the jumpsuitfoundation.

The basic sleeve, shirt sleeve, or any other sleevethat fits the armhole can be used with the jumpsuitfoundation. The armhole can be lowered for a morecasual fit.

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Jumpsuit DraftFigure 1 Trace the front bodice.

Place the front pant on the draft, matching cen-ter front bodice. (If using the slack or jean foun-

dation, the front will overlap at center line ofbodice by 1/4 inch.)

Trace the pant.

Important: The grainline of the pant, when ex-tended through the bodice, must be parallel withthe bodice center line.

Draw a connecting line from the armhole tohipline of the side pant.

FRONT

Knee

Crotch

Hip

Grainline

Figure 1

BACK

Knee

Crotch

Hip

Grainline

Figure 2

Figure 2

Trace the back bodice.

Place the panton the draft so that the space of theback at the side is equal to the front side waist.

Trace the pant so the grainline, when extended,

is parallel to the center line of the back. Draw the sideline and center line of the back.


Trace the basic sleeve.

Jumpsuit with BlousingFigures 3,4

Add space between shoulders of the front andback patterns.

Oversized JumpsuitFigures 5,6

Add space between the shoulder lines of thefront and back patterns, and lower the armhole.

To modify the sleeve for Figures 5 and 6, lowerthe bicep by equal amounts.

BACK FRONT

Add for moreblousing

Elastic, or pull-through string

Figure 3

Lowerarmhole

BACK FRONT

Figure 5 Figure 6

Figure 4

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Tank-Top JumpsuitThe tank-top jumpsuit is based on the trouser jump-suit foundation and can be drafted for sizes 3 to 6Xand 7 to 14.

Tank DraftFigures 1,2

Trace the front and back trouser jumpsuit (seepage 767 for the trouser jumpsuit draft).

Use the illustration and design as a guide forplotting the pattern. Design 1 is illustrated.

Cut and separate the patterns.


768 Chapter 36

Design 1

Add amount neededfor gathers or pleats

A

Hip

Crotch

Knee

B B

A

Hip

Crotch

Knee

Separatepatterns

Separatepatterns

WaistWaist

Figure 1

Design 2

Figure 2

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C.B.

Strap

Bib OverallThe bib overall is based on the trouser jump-suit (see page 767). The design is suitable forsizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14, for boys or girls.

Design Analysis

The bib overall has a utility pocket on thefront of the bib, side pockets, and a patchpocket on the seat of the pant.

Figures 1a,b,c,d

Trace front and back jumpsuit patterns.

Plot the pattern, using the illustration, de-sign, and size of the model as a guide.

Trace the shoulder strap and join at theshoulder (Figure 1a). Trace the pockets

from pant (Figures 1c, d).Note: Establish the finished length; then add additional

length to the pant for roll-up. The legline can be tapered, as

illustrated.


Hip

Crotch

Knee

Pencilpocket A

(full size)

Pocket C Pocket Bentry

Length

forDesign 2

Length

a

Figure 1b

Top stitching

Pocket A

Figure 1c

Fold line

Pocket C

Side Pockets

Join

shoulders

Pocket backing Pocket facing

Figure 1d

Design 1

Design 2

Documents

036 Capitulo 36