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24Capes

and Hoodschapter

540

CAPES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .541

A-Line Cape Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .541

Flared Cape Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .543

HOODS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .545

How to Measure for the Hood Draft . . . . . . . .545

Contoured Hood Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . .545

Contoured Hood Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .549

Loose Hood Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .550

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CAPES AND HOODS 541

CAPESA cape is a sleeveless garment that hangs over the shoulders (sometimes with slip-throughs for arms). It canbe worn separately over coats, jackets, dresses, or sportswear, or it can be attached to a dress or cloak. Two ba-sic capes are developed from the torso foundationA-line and circular capes. They can be used to generate

many variations of current fashion trends.

A-Line Cape FoundationDesign Analysis

Cape has A-line silhouette with slits for arm entry.Three buttons secure the front. Design 1 illustrateshow this foundation can be used.

Pattern Plot and Manipulations

Figure 1 Back

Trace the back torso.

Square a guideline from the center back, touch-ing the armhole. Label A and B. Divide the

AB line into fourths.BC One-fourth of AB. Extend line.

Extend center back to the length desired. Label D.

DE AC plus 3 inches, squared from D.

Draw a line from E. Extend the line through C.

Blend hem 1/2 inch up at side seam.

Mark 1/4 inch above shoulder tip. Label F.

Extend line from mid-shoulder through F, inter-secting the EC line. Label G.

Draw a 2-inch diagonal line from G and draw the

shoulder curve from C to F to mid-shoulder. Cut the pattern from paper.

Design 1

F

G

1/4 " 2 "

A B C

D E

Guideline

WaistCenterback

Hip

CAPE BACK

1/2 "

Figure 1

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542 Chapter 24

Figure 2 Front

Trace thefront torso, transferringside dart to mid-shoulder in line with the back dart placement.

Square a line from the center front, touching thearmhole. Label H.

HI

BC of back cape. Add length to center front below hip equal to the

back. Label J.

JK DE of back cape, squared from J. ConnectK with I (curve shaped later).

Blend the hemline 1/2 inchupfromthe side seam.

Draw a 1-inch extension parallel with the cen-ter front.

Figure 3

Place back cape on top of the front cape, match-ing guidelines with C and I touching (back indi-cated by broken line).

Trace curve of the back cape, ending at the backshoulder dart leg (will cross the front dart leg).Mark. Remove pattern. (If the back shoulder ishigher or lower than front, balance the differ-

ence at the shoulder tip and blend curve line.)

Note: Shoulder pads do not require shoulder adjustment.(Excess has already been transferred to the armhole area.)

Center the dart point 1 1/2 inches up from bustpoint and draw adjusted dart legs to dart point.

Complete the pattern for a test fit. (Shoulderoverarm curve will be adjusted on the model.)

Armhole Slit

Mark 1 inch in from the side waist. Label L.Square 5 inches up and down from L. (Place-ment and length can vary.) The slit should becut 1/16 inch wide and notched across top andbottom.

Cut a welt strip 10 inches 3 inches (not illus-trated). Note: The slit is faced with the lining.

Armhole slit

Guideline

H

5 "

5 "

WaistL

J

1 "

Hip

CAPE FRONT

1" extension

New dart leg

1/2 "K

I

Figure 2

C

TouchI Guideline

Back

Front

Mark corner of back dart

1 1/2 "

Figure 3

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CAPES AND HOODS 543

Flared Cape FoundationDesign Analysis

This flared cape has a tied neck and turned-up Peter Pan flat roll (collar and tie not included). Develop theflared cape foundation from the front and back torso. Length is added for design variations. Create designsusing the slash/spread method.

The Flared Cape Draft

Figure 1Trace the front and back patterns, transferring shoulderand side darts to hip level, and cut from paper.

Square a line on paper. Place the back and front ona square line, with shoulder tips 1 inch apart andtrace. Label side hips A and B.

Mark the center between shoulder tips and pointsA and B. Draw separating line. Label D.

Mark C 3 inches down on the line from shoulder tips.

Draw a curved shoulder from C to the front andback mid-shoulders.

Mark a notch at the shoulder tips.

Shape the hemline between front and back patterns.

Extend the hemline to desired length. The newhemline is parallel with hip level.

Draw a 1-inch extension at center front for buttonand buttonholes, if desired.

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544 Chapter 24

Option 1: All-in-One

Cape can be cut as one piece if thewidth of the fabric permits. Centerback is placed on fold.

Option 2: Back Seam Cape

Add a seam at the center back cape(not illustrated).

Close

Close

1 " apart

3 "

C

Separatin

gline

Center back

Centerfront

Add length

1 " extension

A

ddlength

B

D

A

Figure 1

CAPE FRONT

Centerfront

CAPE BACK

Centerbackcutonfold

Blend the adjusted shoulderlines after fitting

Option 3: Separated Cape

Cut the cape, separating on the overarm line.Draw the grain and complete pattern for a testfit. Adjust shoulder curve on the model.

For greater flare, add to the overarm seam, end-ing at shoulder tip.

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CAPES AND HOODS 545

HOODSHoods cover the head and sometimes part of the face. They can be worn separately or as part of a garment.Like all garments, hoods come in a variety of styles and shapes.

Two hood foundations are illustratedthe contour hood and loose-fitting hood. Other variations can be

developed from the two foundations. Hoods that are illustrated are attached to the garments. The front andback neckline of the patterns are needed for the draft.

How to Measure for the Hood DraftFigure 1 Overhead Measurement

Place a measuring tape at the center front neck(between clavicles) and hold end of the tapewhile measuring up and over the head.

Record one-third of this measurement and add3/4 inch: __________.

Figure 2 Horizontal Measurement

Place tape at the hairline at eye level and measureto other side. Record one-half of measurement:__________.

Contoured Hood FoundationDesign Analysis

The contoured hood fits the shape of the head, withcontrol darts at the crown and neck area. The hoodis attached to the neckline of the garment, startingat the center front.

Figure 1

Figure 2

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546 Chapter 24

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1AB overhead measurement (example:

10 inches).

BC AB, less 1 inch. Square from B.

CD 1 1/2 inches. Square from C.AE one-half of AB. Mark.

EF 3/4 inch, squared from E.

FG horizontal measurement squared from E(example: 8 inches).

BH 1 inch. Mark.

BI one-half of BC. Mark.

I

9 "

CHB

D

1 1/2 "1 "

FE

3/4 "G

8 "

Horizontal measurement

10 "

A

Figure 1

Figure 2

Place back pattern on the draft, with center backon AB line and neck at A.

Trace back neck to corner of the shoulder. Label J.

Shift the pattern 3/4 inch, with center backparallel to the AB line.

Trace shoulderline from the corner of neck todart leg. Label K. (Broken lines indicate theuntraced pattern.)

Remove the pattern.

I CHB

D

FE

G

A

Shift 3/4 "

J K

Shoulder at neck

Figure 2

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CAPES AND HOODS 547

Figure 3

Extend the shoulder (for guideline).

Place shoulder of the front pattern on guideline,with corner of the neck touching point K.

Trace the front neck. Label center front neck X.

(Broken lines represent the untraced pattern.) Remove the pattern.

KL 3 inches. Mark.

LM 3/8 inch. Mark and draw a line from Hto M.

HN 3/4 inch. Mark.

Square out 1 1/8 inches from both sides of N.Label O and P.

NQ One-third of HM. Mark and connect Qwith O and P.

Figure 4 Shaping the Hood

Draw the outward curved line of the hood, con-necting points A, F, O, and P, I, D.

Draw an inward curve from D, G, L, to X. Blendat point G, for a continuous inward curve, if necessary.

Neck Dart

Mark center between points J and K. Draw a3-inch line parallel to the AB line. Label R.

Connect J and K with R for the dart.

Crown Dart

Mark mid-point of OQ and QP and measureout 1/8 inch. Mark and draw curved lines con-necting points Q with O and P.

Draw a grainline parallel to the AB line. Com-plete the pattern for a test fit.

Note: Fold the neck dart with excess in direction of theAB line.

H

J

K

FRONT

Centerfront

X

Guideli

ne

Shoulde

rline

Shoulder at neck

3" ML

3/8 "3/4 "

3/4 "

O

P

Q

1 1/8 "

1 1/8 "N

Figure 3

Contour hood foundation

Q

G

D

F

A

R

J K

L

3 "

1/8 "

1/8 "

OP I

B

X

Figure 4

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548 Chapter 24

Dartless Hood

Figures 5a,b,c

Draw a line through the dart to K and blend.

Trim 3/8 inch from the front and back necklines,as illustrated. Walk the necklines. Adjust theshoulders if necessary.

4 "

GF

L

K

Y

3 "

Blend

Figure 5a

FRONT

Trim3/8 "

Figure 5b

Trim3/8 "

BACK

Figure 5c

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CAPES AND HOODS 549

Contoured Hood DesignDesign Analysis

The contoured hood encircles the face, buttoningfrom the chin down to the center front of the neckand garment. The hood gathers along the neckline,

and the styleline ends at the side of the face. If gath-ers are not desired, do not add to the center back anduse the dart of the foundation pattern. Design 2 isincluded for practice.

Figure 1 Trace the contour hood foundation, including

FG line and KL line. (See the hood draft, pages545 and 546).

Draw a styleline from dart point of the crowndart, ending 4 inches below the G line.

Square down from point F (for fullness) andblend the neckline across dart (dart excess ispart of the gathers). For the dartless hood, seepage 547, Figure 5.

Extension at Neck XY 3 inches. Mark.

Locate 1 1/2 inches on a square rule and place atpoint Y, with the other leg at point X. Draw asquare line, touching X with Y. Label point Z.Blend from Z to L.

Draw a 1-inch extension parallel with the XZline.

Connect the ends.

Mark button placement (Chapter 16).

Design 1 Design 2

4 "

GF

L

KBlend

Z11/2"

Y

3 "

X1 " extension

Styleline

Blend

Gathers

Figure 1

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550 Chapter 24

Loose Hood FoundationLoose hoods are most often used with coats and capes. The hood may be pointed or squared in back, with thefront hood folded over.

Design Analysis

The foundation is drafted with a fold-back and fitsto the height of the crown of the head, with either apoint or a square across the back (eliminating thepoint). Instructions are given for both Design 1 andDesign 2 (exaggerated fullness).

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

For greater looseness, add 2 inches or more to theAB measurement. See Design 2.

Figure 1AB Overhead measurement (example: 10 inches).

BC 2 1/2 inches.

CD AB, squared from C.

Square down from D, as shown.

Place center back on AC line, with corner of the

neck touching A. Draw neck to the corner of the shoulder. Label E.

Shift the pattern 3/4 inch, keeping the centerback parallel to the AC line.

Draw the shoulder, starting at corner of the neck(F), to the dart leg.

Remove the pattern and extend shoulderline(guideline). (The broken line indicates the un-traced pattern.)

Design 1 Design 2C D

2 1/2 "

10 "

B

A

E F

Shift 3/4 " Guide

line

Figure 1

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CAPES AND HOODS 551

Figure 2

Place front shoulder on the shoulder guideline,with corner of the neck touching point F.

Dot mark center front neck (indicated by the bro-ken line).

With a push pin at point F of the front pattern,swing pattern 2 inches away from the dot mark.

Trace the neckline. Remove the pattern and labelcenter front H.

Draw the curve of the hood from point H, blend-ing with the shoulder guide.

Figure 3

Mark center of the dart between E and F. Draw a3-inch line parallel with the AC line. Label I.

Draw a connecting line from E and F to I (dart).(For a dartless hood, see page 000.)

To remove the point from hood, square out2 1/2 inches from B. Label J.

Square up from J to the CD line.

Cut the section from the pattern.

Note: The center back of the hood is cut on the fold.

Draw the grainline and complete for a test fit.

C D

B

EF

2"

HCenterfront

Centerfro

nt

Dot mark

Shoulde

rlinegui

de

G

Figure 2

Cutonfo

ld

LOOSE HOOD

2 1/2 "

2 1/2 "

JB

C D

A

EF

3 "

I

K

Figure 3